davebugs

Yep. Been tied up with a 95 LSi and went to look at a WRX tonight (which would be my first). Trying to get to my antiques. Picked up a clutch kit, rear main seal, etc for the 71 bus today. I need to get another car in tomorrow to determine whether to fix it or part it (a VW). Then it'll probably be parting the 97 OBW unless I get this WRX.

I'd check vaccum lines first. The line that goes to a T almost under the aribox at the the throttle body on the passenger side that is a 1/2" or so hose that's hidden is a good place to start but often if it's not plugged in properly the car dies immediately. Then check all the little vacuum lines for cracking, etc. A knock sensor will cause it to be sluggish but I haven't had one cause what's happenning to you. Perhaps others have. Other things could be fuel filter. He's checking pressure at startup - not after it's been run a while. Even a catalytic converter. But often you can smell them being hot, sometimes they even glow red. Hopefully others will have some idea's for you.

Model and year? Which side? On the Legacy's (here) it's no big deal. They say you need a new rubber gasket when re-instlaling but folks here have used the old gasket - I get a new one. About 8-10 nuts, the wireing clip, and 3 hoses. Biggest issue is usually getting the 3 hoses out of the way enough and turning and tilting the unit to get it out. Never have but wouldn't want to have a hose fall between the tank and the body.

o.k. yet again I don't know where seatac is. But I've got me some radiators setting here that are good. Mostly Legacy's but a few Impreza's. If you're near South Western PA. Depending on how long the JY keeps things they could have pulled all the rad's when they were pulling cats last year when scrap was up.

Hey - due to emissions standards and such a lot of exhaust stuff is mandatorily covered longer than you'd think. Might be worth a call to the dealer. It's not a cat so I don't know what they may be able to do for sure.

That's wild. Usually they come apart before the resignator and usually at the flange before the cat before the resignator. I've seen those 3rd cats before as well always on 99's. Must not be anything in them. When cats were worth something those still weren't. Also both O2 sensors are before that third cat. I have some used resignators here. I very rarely need one. I just happen to have 3 complete exhausts here. Don't know if it would be worth buying a used one and having it shipped. Can't be as expensive as a cat.

Odds are good that I have a door. I have all 4 dark Blue ones from a 95 Sedan, the LR has a dent but power window still worked fine. I also will have all 4 doors from a 97 Outback in the standard green color. My favorite year of Suby. I just finished one last week.

If you were past the alarm I had some idea's. I don't know squat about their alarm systems or bypassing them.

Define won't start. Alarm going of? DOes it crank?

I got nailed by a non OEM thermostat for the first time last week. Heck - I've purchased cars with the thermostat in backwards. I don't even know if an OEM will fit in backwards - but aftermarkets sure do they are about half the length.

I use it when restoring antique's. FLoor pans and such. But it can make you "loopey". I did the pan on a 63 bug. All windows removed, both doors open, did it outside, 20" box fan on a milk crate beside me. Dumped it out, pushed it around, 10 minutes tops. When complete I had trouble standing up. I was definately buzzed.

I would imagine no corrulation. That plate isn't filled with oil behind it. Atleast I don't believe it is.

I think I saw POR-15 in some of my air cooled VW catalogs and a few antique specialty tool catalogs. I just order it direct from the manufacturer in New Jersey but it's been a while. I'm attempt to look online they may have their own webpage. But I'd still think it's the baffle plate that's leaking. Use excellent ventilation when using the POR-15 - you can catch a buzz easily.

While I've found an excellent VW Diesel site (tdiclub.com) and here for Subaru's the best I found for Saturns is saturnfans.com. And it's not nearly as good. But there is some info there. I used to do Saturns as well but not any for the last year or so. Now it's just Subaru's and VW's. Never had your particular problem though.

I buy the kits all the time from "theimportexperts". Infact 2 kits last week. Never tried their WP's though. I did just installed my first "off brand" belt a MitsibOshi(?) on a 95 I did last week (non-interference). When you buy the kit the TB basically is free. I know this because I often order odds and ends idlers. And always had obtained the TB locally. Locally the A1 Cardone WP's have gone from 48 to 51 bucks in the last few weeks. But I have no experience with the WP's. Another member recently had issues with an Ebay TB kit - but it wasn't the folks that I use. I don't recall his issue but some searching should turn it up. Within the last month, probably the last few weeks.

Baffle plate leaking. Need to pull enigne or trans to fix. Mostly annoying and some burnt oil smell. You can search around here for "baffle plate" or "oil seperator platge" and see what a common issue it is.

That would be a Motive pressure bleeder. I would suggest the Subaru specific cap. Works like a dream when you have the specific threaded adapter rather than a universal one.

This has probably been covered but make SURE it's the oil pan. A baffle plate leak (very common) looks like an oil pan leak - especially when the pan is rusty. And you gotta pull the engine or trans to fix the baffle plate.

Behind the PS pump/ALternator on the block it will say EJ22 or EJ25. It would be real hard to do a decent job on the oil pan without engine removal. You may be able to do it by unbolting the engine mounts, dogbone, perhaps exhaust, perhaps other thigs as well, and liftiing it a bit to get to the back bolts. I'd just suck it up and take it out and check the baffle plate and probably do other routine maintenance. Odds are good that you have a 2.2. Very rare for someone on purpose to replace a 2.2 with a 2.5. A 1.8 I'd think you'd notice being under powered.

Gary, I installed a used harmonic balancer, key, crank bolt, oil pump, and splined crank cog (for lack of the proper term). It was really hosed. And their attempt at a repair was sub-standard. Wish I would have taken some pics. Some welding, 4" grinder, Dremel and key slot cutting with Dremel. Two of us with about a 3 foot of leverage with a screwdriver stuck in the flexplate. I doubt it's coming off. The new waterpump they had installed was leaking. I almost feel like trying to call the folks and letting them know the quality of work that was done. But I'm sure that would open a can or worms. I just hate to see people taken. They could be taking their current cars to the same place just to get screwed up by having routine maintenance done.

I now know what you mean. But have never seen one leak - that's why I was confused. I thought perhaps you were talking about the back of the passenger side cam and those 2 bolts are pretty abvious. And I've never had to have 2.2 heads done so I've never needed to reseal the part youi're talking about. Sorry I can't help.

I'll try attaching some pics. Forgot pics of the crank, keyway, etc. Never did really find a known part of the key. I had help (haven't really welder in years) with the whole process. Car ran. New pulley was toast as you will see in the pics. This car had issues. All caused by someone not knowing Subaru's. And my guess is the same folks trying to repair the damage. Engine was removed, baffle plate was leaking and figured it was easier to work on crank out of the car. First time I've pulled a Suby engine without removing the rad - just the fans. I live in the rust belt. It took 2 of us (not used to working together) an hour to get the engine out. When Skip helped my pull my first Suby engine (a VERY rusty car) it took considerably longer - he had a clue and I didn't. Total repair, TB, WP, idlers, Orings, oil pump reseal & Oring, VC gaskets, plugs, baffle plate and the little access plate resealed. You get the idea. Break for lunch, trip to auto parts for exhaust gaskets(can't believe I forgot them) we were done in within 6 hours of when he arrived. Very good time I'd say for 2 folks used to working alone. Shoot - forget how to attach pics loaded to my photo album (already done). I'll poke around a little again. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1356 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1353 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1354 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1355 o.k. I'll try and actually get them into the post now.

You're not making sense. Atleast I don't know what you're talking about. How about a pic from somewhere showing what you're talking about?

It just helps sometimes if we know where folks are at. Lots of little towns with the same name exist in several states. Then there are the great names like "tri-state area", "in the woods", "up the creek", whatever. Not meaningful at all. Folks here are very helpful. It helps to know where folks are at to offer assistance personally, etc. I've had pretty good luck with the struts from Advance. Can't recall the name but they come in a Grey Sleeve. I'm talking about on other makes of cars. I've never needed them (that I didn't already have) on a Suby.

I realize you're trying to be cute but I have no idea of where Morris is. Please update your profile with a meaningful location. That said I've had good luck with getting replacements for other off beat cars from Advance Auto. But since I don't know where you are at I don't know if you may have Advance's near you.