davebugs

I've had success with 5w30, MMO, pulling the connector to the coil pack. Cranking several times lets guess 5 seconds a time. Perhaps 4-6 times. Usually by then the fuel filter is full and you're smelling gas which can't be good for the cylinders. But I figure it's only one time. I plug it back in and she fires up. Those cranking sessions help build up oil pressure but also dump fuel in the cylinders. Unplugging the injectors just seems like an unnecessary hassle. If you're a bit paranoid fill the oil filter before installation - that should help a little. Not from the FSM and I don't know what others do but this "works for me".

You haven't done much research have you? Perhaps that was a bit harsh. Please do some searching. There are excellent threads on compatability of engines and parts. As well as the procedure itself. Answering the same simple questions all of the time gets a little old. And you're bound to have more if you don't do some searching and reading. There is lots of good advice and experience on this board.

Don't know about the AC compressor - I just know to look at them. Sometimes the hoses come off at different points and if you have the whole car you can just switch hoses. You'll be using the 2.5 flywheel so get the clutch for it.

Gotta get HG's each time. Think about it - they get squished, unsguished, squished again to make sure the get squished properly and seal. I don't see how they could go through that process a second time successfully. Never had an oil pump issue. Be careful and try and make sure the Oring ollks like it was in place. I should have good used ones if you go that route.

If I think about it I'll look tomorrow. I have 2 good used ones on my Breezeway I was debating about putting on Ebay. If not I'll keep them around I know they were good. Some of those little clips are kinda bizarre. I've had to replace some on Volvo's. A bit over engineered. I've always replaced the whole assy on Suby's rather than just the strut. If I may ask what breand did you buy and what did they cost?

o.k. - misplaced my camera this afternoon. You'll have to take my word for it. At the bottom where the ball joint is there is a nut where it attaches to the body of the car. INSIDE the car there is a nut that will take a socket. The nut on the outside is for an open end wrench to hold things while you take off the nut on the inside. Don't pull apart the joint.

I believe sometimes the front calipers are different on L's versus Outbacks (we're probably talking 2.2 vs 2.5). I believe I've run into it even when they are all 15" wheels. But my memory isn't so great.

Ground/battery is good. Tone rings look rusty but they have always set the light in the past. I'm gonna pull the fuse.

Dots and hash marks. NEVER ARROWS.

All 2.5's are interference I believe. Update your state in your profile. There may be a helpful member near you.

I have trouble getting valve seals. But I've never had any be bad. And the shop I use for headwork says they don't even stock them for Suby's cause they almost never go bad. I was gonna offer a head that I have but they shouid be bent - idler failure. The other heads I have are 97's (that have the shims) and a 99 good engine that I wouldn't tear down to sell a head.

They were the only game in town other than the dealer for parking brake shoes that I needed for a 97 OBW. Seems weird that the regular pads they wouldn't stock. I use Wagner Thermo Quiet's anyways.

Now that would be way, way over my head.

No ABS light but typically twice at different speed slowing from 55 to 0 ABS kicks in for a few pulses. All sensors read some AC current when spinning by hand. G-force thing in console swapped out with no improvement. Pull ABS fuse ABS light comes on. No ABS but stops just fine. Tone rings especially on the front look bad but usually this triggers the light. This will be a low dollar car (121k and will sell for under 2k I believe). So I don't wanna spend forever chasing the porblem and I have a 97 OBW to steal parts from. What's next - ABS unit and how much of a b$itch to bleed. Take it to the dealer (and add significantly to the selling price). Pull the fuse and have no ABS? If I find the connectors under the dash will they flash anything if no ABS light is on? It's certainly had enough cycles to turn the ABS light on if something is truely wrong. He says no new codes (just had the battery disconnected to swap the G-force sensor). He'll recheck for codes this morning and then I'll research and post any if htere are any.

I'm still thinking slave cylinder. I usually buy 95-99's that have 100-200k on them needing repaired. I had a stretch last summer where 5 of 6 manual trans cars had the slave fail immediatley or soon after the engine removal and install. I'm guessing it's a combination of age, miles, and the fact that perhaps it gets "over extended" while the engine is out of the car or something. Them's pretty good odds. So now I just budget the 50 bucks for a slave along with clutct kit and flywheel resurface on all manual ltranny's.

Brand of the plug wires on 2.5's is VERY important. They need to be OEM it seems. Red with the name Yasaki (or something) usually. Hope you installed good old (and cheap) BKR5E-11's with the GREEN writing. Update you profile with a better idea of where you are incase a member is close that may be able to help or have spare parts. What brand is the coil pack? Youi're hopeing for Diamond.

Answer GG's question about the BRAND of plug wires. If you did I missed it. Going out on a limb it may be the alternator. They do funny things on Suby's. You loose top end. Almost like fuel filter or cat is clogged. SOme of the symptoms that you described. There was a recent threat here. Easy enough to remove and have checked. Also what brand of timing belt? I use Dayco and they don't seem to line up exactly on DOHC 2.5's

I've done both. The aftermarket kits with the springs don't fit well (as in clearnace to tighten ) on the 95 an up's that I work on. Sometimes I go with straight bolts. I just anti-seize it well so that perhaps the next fella has a prayer.

Bummer. I've sold a few used cam sprockets but I've never had or seen one fail - and I get a lot of broken cars. If you go used and noone closer had one let me know. I believe I'll have to start to tear down a complete engine with bad bearings to get the parts. Did you remember to pull the pin on the tensioner? Did all seem well when you made 2 complete revolutions as part of teh TB replacement?

SOme have a nut inside the car behind some plastic above the tallight assy IIR. I have a few struts laying around - I'll see if I can foind them tonight and refresh myself

Do you have the nut off of it?

I've learned that the MMO really works on Suby's. I try and put a 100-500 miles on the car and change the oil and filter. MMO thins out the oil and makes it smell good (no kidding). I use 4 qts of 5w30 and 1 qt of MMO (A little less on 2.2's of the 5w30). I don't believe in synthetics for engines such as this. Diesels and turbo's yes. Same thing a lot of times with oil analysis. Costs the same as changing the oil, I jsut change the oil. I've seen cases where perhaps the old "break in" oil wasnt' needed but synthetics have caused issues with freshly rebuilt enignes. That have been bored oversized, new rings, etc. These Suby's seem to go 250-300k with normal maintenance and fluids. I still do every 3k. Gotta run.

He did that already. He just did a HG job. When you shake, shake, shake don't forget about the pinhole in the tank. Letting it set in the laundry tub full with cleaner helps. I usually do it with the gravel in there and shake it every so often for a day or so. I pull the overflow when I send the rad out to be flushed on HG jobs. I also try and keep a few already cleaned ones around. Currently I have 3 in the laundry tub. Shook them this morning when doing laundry.

Your favorite cleaner and gravel. Shake, shake, shake.

Excellent deal for whoever is selling it. Not so good for you. There was a time when the salesman made more on the extended warranty than on selling the car. That should give you some idea of the margins. Which should also give you some idea of the money they set aside to fix real problems and how hard it's gonna be to get. I haven't purchased a new car since 2001 when I bought 2. But I doubt things have changed that much.