davebugs

Flushing and Bleeding may work for a short time. Locally NAPA stocks the slaves, others it takes a day. All are a little over 50 bucks. Can be a pain to bleed. If you can when you bleed it look for Black in the fluid. If so you know some rubber components are failing.

You may wanna soak that puppy. Sometimes they are very difficult to remove and actually break.

My Motive unit has a quick disconnect like an air hose (infact it may be exactly alike - haven't tried). Look around here for a link to instructions on how to make a pressure bleeder from a weed sprayer. He details the process that he used to drill and plumb the cap. I would never use more than 10 PSI on anything. I also don't put fluid in the unit. IIR each cap is like 15+shipping from a Motive dealer on Ebay. I believe the weed sprayer guy optained his cap from the HELP display.

Kept one off the car I scrapped wednesday just incase I want to experiment.

Run out and buy a lottery ticket!! You be lucky!

Hey - atleast you found it. Now you know to go by the dots and hash marks and not the arrows. I would have still expected good compression of the cylinders on the cam that you had set correctly though. It'll be interesting to see how this one works out.

I had been meaning to share my experience with this - I had finally purchased one. Worked super on my 2001 VW that I had purchased a screw on cap for. Was a mess on my 97 Astro rectangle GM reservoir. Couldn't get it to seal. Tried the "universal" round one on a SUbaru (takes chains), leaked, wouldn't hold more than abotu 6 PSI. A friend came over to see how it worked. It did work but the real adapter would have been better. I plan on ordering the Suby adapter and the air cooled VW adapter. GG - is there a good rubber gasket in your adapter? On the van and Suby generics I wondered if it would have sealed better had I pre-wetted the rubber on the generic cap to help seal it. I would guess putting brake fluid on the ridge of the reservoir might do the same thing. On the VW I had the correct adapter and it was a breeze (total brake fluid flush). The van - unacceptable. Suby - worked but not well with the generic adapter.

Thankfully I don't travel like I used to. I didn't have any time to play with cars, go to my place in the mountains, etc. The money was good though. Now I've been doing the "quality of life" thing for about 5 years. Been to Seattle. For a week vacation. I used to have enough free airline tickets and hotel stays that I'd give her choice of where to vacation. One year she picked going to Seattle with her sister and her husband. Only time we ever vacationed with others. You folks are WAY left of me. Did the culture things. I talked the others (another couple and ourselves) into the "Ride the Ducks" tour. It was the most fun we had! The VW sculpture under the bridge was another high point. Thanks for the offer. Glad you got it done. Don't forget to add MMO when filling the crankcase. It still won't quiet down until after it's driven 10-20 miles. And especially if it was a 2.5 follow the burping procedures here.

I believe that's exactly how most of the poisons work. They go looking for water, which causes their blood to thin out and they bleed to death. Gotta make sure the toilet lid is closed at the place in the mountains. They don't ferment well. Infact I believe it's vitamin K that's a blood thickener that the vet needs to give a pet that has eaten one of these dead animals.

I told you in general. Have the Kubota support the engine, a jack support the tranny. Get under there and PUSH on the oil pan from the front. I never could find a good spot to use a pry bar. You wanna take all the weight that you can off all the mounts to make it easier to move the whole assy back. Appropriate grunting and swearing seems to help.

I believe Skip has used the Kubota method. I know he used the Kubota to pull the pump in his water well last summer. Skip has a sweet setup that I have aquired the parts for but haven't done yet. He mounted an ATV winch to his cherry picker. Allows power in and out with like a 20' remote. Since I'm usually doing this myself this idea is genious! I picked up a cheap (50 bucks) Harbor Freight winch but haven't gotten it mounted yet. Glad you got it all back in. When the whole drive line gets pulled forward like that there really isn't a good pry point. But just getting some leverage for your body and pushing hard does it.

What do you know? I always have the flywheel machined. My local auto parts does an excellent job. Capable of the "stepping" jobs as well if needed. I figure at the price of a clutch kit why wimp out on the flywheel. I see it as completing the job. I haven't had one with hairline cracks yet perhaps I've been lucky? Haven't had any issues in the last several years that I've been doing Suby's. And it's not the thing to do? These cars typically have 110-200k on them.

Push harder. While you were seperating the two, or having difficulty getting it re-installed you pulled EVERYTHING forward a bit. You need to jamb it back. Best done while tranny is supported and engine is supported.

A few notes. I've never had to remove the engine mounts - never even crossed my mind. Brings up thoghts of attaching the ATF lines to the Left head on some years automatics - not pleaseant when you install an engine and forget them. The dogbone is the thing that looks like a dogbone (go figure) that attaches right at the top front of the tranny bellhousing and it's lets say 6 inches long and attaches towards the firewall under the ignitor. 14mm bolt and nut. Unbolt it closest where the engine and tranny meet. No need to remove it. Just watch that you still don't jamb against it when raising the tranny. It's sounding like your tranny isn't lifting high enough. This dogbone could be stopping it. The other proposed option actually allows you to lower the angle of the engine rather than raise the tranny. Sometimes you have to "disconnect" and start over. Sucks but it happens.

Auto or stick? Tranny supported well and raised a bit? Dogbone disconnected? They wil lcome out with it in place but I've never been able to get an engine back in with it in place. Don't forget as you add weight to the car (from the engine) the angle changes slightly. May or may not be in your favor.

Gary, Based on what I see on 95-99 2.2 and 2.5's yes. I also ALWAYS get one for the aftermarket metal pumps that I put on. IIR 3.85 at the dealer. Dave

I'd put it all together. Part of that process (atleast for me) is making a few revolutions by hand to make sure things still line up. There will be resistance at spots, and spots that it will force the wrench "ahead". If you haven't done this before you may not be used to it. Either stuff is bent or not. The new components won't effect that at all. Why not try the route you're going?

Classic alternator symptoms on a Suby. Often when driving suddenly your maximum RPM's keep deminishing (because it isn't charging the battery). Shut it off and leave set a while if it's a good battery it'll start back up and you can head down the road again - for a while. Then the good battery looses it's charge again. Repeat the whole way home (I gave up and called a friend after 4 segments). Change fuel filter (figure it's running out of fuel), check fuel pump, check cats for blockage. Doesn't help. Install a new alternator and all is good. I've had this happen to me almost a half dozen times. Also sometimes the ABS and another light seem to come on in Suby's if the current is wimpy.

My solution is simple. The local exhaust bending place fixes these for 40 bucks. Almost what I have in parts especially when I need to buy those goofy clamps to mimic a flange. They cup off both pipes and weld a new piece in - maybe 6 inches. I do this after all work has been done on the car. Lets face it these joints are wimpy. Even if you fix it now within a few years the exact same problem is likely. On the rare occasions that I do just put a new donut in there (I'm working on 95-99's) Walker does make a slightly larger donut that I find works better than the one listed that is often too tight (although I always start with the listed donut to try). The generic hardware kits with springs are useless. If you'd like some factory springs and can wait a few days and pay for shipping plus a couple of bucks I can send you some (again off 95-99's). PM me. Dave

When I had issues with an Outback one time a Suby tech told me that it could be unplugged and that most of the wires plug into other places. I ended up fixing the problem(whatever it was). But he made it sound like most of the connectors had other homes.

I took a quick look at the pics. This could help others. Thanks for undertaking the documentation effort.

I don't worry about it. I used to try and save them but as soon as you try and clean the covers and the block to make a nice job of it it gets screwed up. It would be hard to get anything that thin to stick and stay in place in my opinion. Some folks here don't even run covers - but I always do. If you pull the covers on a car that has has someone in there (TB or WP job for instance) they already are missing. If someone has a good solution I'd love to hear it. But I don't worry about it.

Before I had a cement floor in the big garage something ate the same exact wire off 3 old VW's. The starter wire has a sheath(?) to protect it going over the transaxle. Apparently it's at the top of the munchie list - the covering/sheath. The rest of the 12 guage wire wasn't even eaten. Haven't found any other critter issues in those cars yet. They ate the wireing on a bug outside. I'm concerned about my personal cars, antiques, and the cars I fix and sell. I'd like to get rid of the little fuzzy guys.

Folks are gonna need to know the year, model, etc.

Search for "delayed tranny engagement fixed"' or similar here. I think it's up to 5 pages. May have the info that you need.