davebugs

I've got major chipmunk issues. Cute but destructive. I put some of those outside rat chunks out yesterday - the green Tomcat ones. They are all gone and I just saw a couple of them playing around. The pellets usually they save for winter and by the time they eat it it doesn't kill them. I put out a few of those mouse trips with the little yellow paddle. They ate the wiring on a VW bug I have outside. One just ran out of my lower garage that has a 90 S10 w/35k on it. The lower garage is somewhat attached to the house (breezeway). The upper garage has 6 antique VW's in it. Along with whatever car(s) I'm working on. I've got no pets and the few neighbors that do have invisible fences or they are on a leash when they are outside. I'm not concerned about domestic's getting into it. What can I use? I need these critters GONE.

I don't believe so. INfact a 97 AUto is a bit of a weirdo. If you compare it to a 95,96,98,99 (IIR) it's a little longer where it extends into the bell housing.

It covers a hole with oil behind it. And it's plastic. That's why it leaks. That's all you need to know. You can investigate when you have it off. Not a whole lot behind it really. If I think of it I'm about to move an engine that has the baffle plate off. Lots of sludge in the engoine so I didn't use it. But I stole the baffle plate to replace one that was cracked. Really I don't see may cracked. Warped maybe, seal gone bad definately, cracked is rare.

I installed a similar pump. Makes noise(like it's running) every key cycle. Added 2 gal of gas (although there was nasty gas in there up to about the top of that baffle plate under the pump in the tank. Seems like perhaps I'm getting a litte coming into the filter now. I gotta wait for stuff to evaporate. I may swap out the filter to a known good used one since I have several on the shelf. WhenI sell a car typically I put a new fuel filter (and air, oil,coolant,etc.) in them. I was actually thinking of "primeing the pump". Bought some hose this morning. Funny thing is that I could have had this engine pulled quicker than trying to get it to run. But if I get it running I may not want to pull it. Still it's no worse odds than JY engine. But I'd really, really like to hear it and do a compression check. Yea - I know I could do a compression check but other than running some on either it hasn't been run in atleast 2 years. Hardly seems like the oil would be helping seal the rings properly.

I typically prefer used OEM to new aftermarket as well. "they don't just fit, they match" - you don't hear than one anymore. Also lenses should be replaced in pairs if you're going aftermarket. I should have a few of those lenses around but they would need shipped. Not new but servicable.

Sounding like the classic DOHC HG issue. But that's not what your engine is. But perhaps you're having the same problem. I'd try a cap first. Thats what controls what goes to the overflow bottle. I don't have much experience with your enigne. It may be a PITA to burp just liek the older 2.5's. Do a search here for "burping". If you don't get all the air out the remaining pocket will likely cause the same thing to happen again even if you have fixed the problem.

I'll recheck tomorrow. His snap-on scanner said something aboug a G something (G- relay?) under the console somewhere. I recall reading something about it - I think in a PDF someone posted about WRX ABS issues, or in another thread. I'll have to refind the info and read it closely now. When I've had tone rings (about the worst thing to fix - I don't) the ABS light comes on. The ABS light does work, but isn't on. He has already swapped another relay under the dash from a 97 Outback parts car that I have to try and fix the code 51 I believe. That's the last time we had talked. At one point we had pulled the ABS fuse today to confirm that it was something with ABS. So the first time he got the codes one of them could have been the pulled fuse.

Installed another pump from a 97 Legacy known good. (I had 2 different styles from 97's - perhaps some L's and some Outbacks?) I can hear and feel it run when key is cycled, added a couple gallons of gas (there was some in there when I changed pumps). But still really nothing up coming into the filter. I'll try again tomorrow. My patience is about up. Too much work just to hear an engine run. I almost might as well just yank it. No worse odds than a JY engine.

EVO - not many folks out of our litlte area know about Berkebile 2+2 products so you should say carb cleaner, clean brake, etc (after all they are all 2+2 products). Other than locally a lot of their stuff goes out of the country. An amazing amount (atleast it used to). Know how they got the name 2+2? They used to be a customer of mine.

I never add anything to them on 2.2's. Someone eluded to where the little black pieces (IIR) on the DOHC heads that typically already have some ultra-grey (or similar) on them. It's been a while but I don't think I did any sealant around them (but my memory isn't so good).

I was thinking I had missed something - two cam sensors. I panicked when I just resealed the front of a 99 2.2 that I had forgotten to get the cam Orings but it appears to not have them. A different setup over around the cam sensor and no place for an Oring. Thought maybe it had 2 cam sensors as well and I had missed that.

They always have some resistance. A lot of stuff is moving in there and usually being pushed by pretty strong forces. I hope that you have the crank set properly before turning the cams. Depending on when you are doing this you can get one of the left coast places to possibly overnight you an Ebay kit for sat delivery cheaper than getting idlers at the parts store. You gotta guess just the one or all of them. Usually the second wimpiest is the one on the old style tensioner. The lower one is probably the single bearing one and now they are all double row idlers.

Gasket scraper? I always use a lot of brake clean.

The splined one? It's the common failure.

The same as broken in my opinion. Damage is probably similar. And you still don't know what caused it. Idler, WP, the belt itself, a cam had an issue, etc.

He gets 11(naturally) 46 42 51 I'm off to try and hunt them down now. Too bad it's not like ODBII codes and there is a master list. I found some links to some PDF's so I'm looking through them.

o.k. folks. With the instruction in this thread and other the inspection station (where the car is for now) jumpered pin 6 and say they get a code 11, 12, and 16. IIR 11 is generic - something like - "you have an ABS problem" I can't find codes for 12 & 16. 97 Legacy L(that helps determine which ABS system).

I think you made the right choice pulling the engine. Do all the other maintenance work and a better job on the pan. You may want to get a pickup tube Oring since you'll have the pan off. I would recommend against the rear seal. Unless it's proven that it's the culprit. My local dealer doesn't even stock one. Usually they look like they are weeping a little from all the oil floating around from the baffle plate.

Pump must be dead. I ran hot wire to yel/blu, ground to large black wire and got nothing. These were directly to my jump box. I have several here from Lecagy's. When I get this one out I'll see if I have a match

Look around for endwrench articles on doing htis. I'll have to go back and se ethe miles, year, etc. Generally. 2 Cam seals Crank seal oil pump O ring Orings (for the cam ends on the 2.2) Baffle plate and screws. Timing belt? Other sources: Untra Grey NGK Timing Belt Accessory belts. coolant valve covers? (usually by now the Orings are leaking and you'll notice that when you poull the plugs. The VC's themselves may not be leaking. Hose clamps (for rad and ATF hoses) If a lot of miles Water Pump Idlers if sounding bad or a lot of miles.

Now I'm curious - the 99 2.2 has TWO cam sensors? I'm gonna have ot go open the hood of the on that I have here and look. BTW I have a 99 Legacy 2.2 parts engine here. If there are 2 sensors on it I can look to see it they appear good.

I've been off searching. Haven't found this exact problem but a the end of this I'll tell what I've found so far. The pedal doesn't seem to do anything - perhaps get temporarily "mushy". No pulsing is heard - or really felt for that matter - the car jsut "coasts" for a little bit then starts braking again. No ABS light at all. Before, during, after. But it just "acts" like ABS. WIth the fuse unplugged the issue doesn't happen. I found some hits for "ABS code" Bleed brakes(all 4 in specific sequence). Find BLACK 6 pin connector under dash to the right of steering column along with 2 grounding pins. Read codes and look them up. (Pray it isn't tone rings).

I was thinking crankshaft. Yea the camshaft sensor is very easy to replace. Don't know if they should be OEM or not since I alyaws have used ones if necessary.

Here's the deal. When braking from lets say 50 mph to 0. A time or two while slowing down it will "coast" a bit like ABS is kicking in. No ABS light, pulled ABS fuse and problem went away (and ABS light came on). RR caliper was hanging up. Replaced that and issue still persists. Best way to check this since no ABS light is on? I'm in the rust belt so tone rings aren't looking that good - but on other cars where they were bad the ABS light is on. Suggestion? Threads?

A lot of us have those around as spares. They can be a pain to remove with corrosion. CHeck the wireing/connection first. If noone close has any PM me and I'll see if I have any left or take one of a good running engine.