davebugs

Expanding on GG's comments. That's not a bad belt at all to do. I always pull the radiator 'cause I like a little room. If a belt doesn't solve it I'd pull the engine to check the pistons, clean and reseal it and drop it back in for another 100k.

Bosal makes a awful lot of VW exhausts for air and water cooled. I don't recall if I've ever used one of their cats though.

Nice finds.

I truely appreciate the pointers. I know enough basics to fix wireing for a bulb but that's about it. Playing with wires so close to the fuel tank with my level of knowledge and comfort isn't my idea of a good time. Only good news is that the car is on a trailer outside. I'm not much of a hockey fan but the game is in town tonight and it's turning out to be an excellent game. Just like some of the football playoffs and superbowl this year. Tomorrow I test!

Yes. Probably some bent valves. Someone here recently was lucky with an interference 2.2 IIR.

o.k. lets pretend that I'm a 6 year old - cause that's about my electrical abilities. I know what a lot of relays look like. I'm wondering how to tell which one is for the fuel pump. How do I measure to make sure the black is the ground. What setting on the multimeter? I was debating about trying to hit the pins on the pump with a hot and ground to try and get it going. Now I'm thinking of cutting the tape off the wires, stripping atleast the blu/yel and black (at different distances from the plug) and using alligator clips to the jump box and see if the pump runs. Good approach? Another might be to use the pointy test light to "complete" the hot part of the circuit. Will this work - place the alligator clip of the test light on the stripped wire on the blu/yel, touch the point onto the hot of the jump box(that I've already stuck the ground to the car somewhere). If the circuit is complete the test light should light up and the pump run. Or better approaches? I think I should check at the pump before trying to figure out which relay. The car is on a trailer so it's a bit of a pain to get up under the dash well - that's why I removed the kick panel.

cougar, Funny - most of the threads I rea don this topic you provided the solution. I'm just a little bit dense. I can find the blu/yel wire. Set my multimeter on 20 volts, red probe on the blu/yel wire and ground the other one. Get someone to turn the key and see if I get 12 volts or close? "under the dash" is a busy area. I took the kick panel off so that I could look for a silver (with a green end) relay as in another post by the originator of this thread and there isn't one stuck into the fuse block. Where is this relay likely to be(fuse block, to the right of the steering column, that kinda stuff), what does it look like, etc? How do I test it after I find it? I gotta run (high school graduation) but I hope to finish this tonight so please keep the suggestions up. What wires (other than the blu/yel) would I need to use to try and run the pump with jumpers with the ground?(I'm guessing the big black one - but what do I know?)

This 96 doesn't have a relay atttached to the fuse block like the photo in this thread(or similar thread by some poster working on sema car). The silver and green one. The Plug on the passenger side fuel pump has these 5 wires. Bottom right Black (a little heavier gauge than the rest of the wires), middle green/black wire. Top of plug L to R. Blue, green/blue, blue/yellow. If someone knows of a better thread that I didn't turn up please point me to it.

It's complicated because it won't crank with the key. But the ignition does appear to be on , lights, dinger, etc. I have the starter hot wired with an aligator clip to the battery. After I got it to backfire and caught the air filter on fire with either I started looking for fuel pressure. I cracked the gas cap and had some pressure (probably due to heat). Tightened the cap, cycled the key many times (atleast a dozen). Never heard the pump, removing gas cap had no pressure sound. Being one guy I'm trying diagnose this. Not to fix the car, but to just get it to run for a few minutes to know whether I want to pull the engine. I do have fuel pumps around if that's the answer. I don't have any relay's though without removing them from good running cars. I'm not a big electrical guy and trying to wire the pump direcftly sounds a little intimidating since you're literally at the fuel tank. I do have a jump box to use as juice. I'll go take a quick look. I was hoping to determine the fate of the engine today but I'll have to leave in an hour or so for a graduation.

I've never done it that way. But the correct size punch for the pins on the axles would be nice. Odds are you're gonna screw up the exhaust behind the second cat where the donut goes. Then you'll have to decide whether a new donut is enough, etc.

How many volts should there be at the fuel pump on the passenger side? I'm having an issue on a 96 Impreza parts car. Runs on either (other than the small fire). But I'd like to hear it run before pulling. I see the relay description and I'll check it - I do hear clicking from under there but it could be anything. This car's linkage is screwed and disconnected, I'm hotwireing the starter since there may be something other than the switch in the shifter that is stopping the ignition from starting it. I'm only one guy. I should have several fuel pumps from 95-97-99 Outbacks and some L's. But I'd like to work smart(yea - I know - it's a challange). Volts at fuel pump should be? I'm not an electrical wizard. I had a friend help for a few minutes. He said he got some voltage but at that point my jump box was about dead. I don't even know what he was jumping to get the reading - I was turning the key at that point. If there a way to test the relay? The fact that he got some voltage means it's likely the pump? This car's inspection was up in 2007 and it's wrecked in the side so I'm sure it's been setting. Tow Truck driver probably did in the shifter since the car had no key.

It worked. Green connectors. 25 mile trip to go shopping and back with the CEL blinking the whole time. Nothing not ready (there had been 3). Passed emissions with no issues

We haven't had a local Snap-on guy for probably 2 years. Last swivel head ratchet that I had that needed fixed/replaced took about 5 weeks. Matco, Mac, and Sears are picking up business for hand tools. Think about it. Would be a tough gig to feed one of those trucks and drive around. They probably concentrate on the big ticket electronics and stuff. Snap-on is dwindling fast around here. I sold an old Legacy to a Snap-on dealer from 50 miles away a year or so ago. I've been buying more and more Sears just for convenience. But as they cut back on what they stock they start overnighting the broken tool to you. Sucks when you're inthe middle of a project. But still WAY before I'd see a Snap-on guy. As a result I do buy some Snap-on but at auctions and on Ebay. Last new piece I bought was a 1/4 swivel head ratchet that I use for torque converter bolts mostly. I posted in the tool thread that not Gearwrench makes a set of 1/4 and 3/8 for 60 bucks (I got mine cheaper off Ebay). I paid 80 for just the Snap-on and I swear it's the same unit. The torque wrenches are nice. I guess I'm old school in thinking that hand tools shouldn't take batteries. And with no local service I just couldn't bring myself to pay the price for Snap-on.

Those engines were worth some serious money. Selling them was a smarter thing to do rather than taking on a project like this. When you do a different manufacturer engine swap you want to use cheap and plentiful engines hopefully with a big aftermarket parts offering. None of this really applies to the TDI. Don't know what he got for the car or if he sold them both - but I think it'd be the way to go.

I broke down and got a decent Sears clicker to do the low torque necessary for the HG jobs. I waited until it was on sale for 100 bucks. I often borrow a friends fancy Snap-on. It's cool because it does the vibration thing and all. But what I really like is that you can read the final torque of each bolt in the final tightening phase. You can read the torque on the readout going either direction. Usually they are all in a range within 20 lbs - usually maybe 10 pounds or so. I forget the exact range. I usually write the #'s down for each bolt on each head on the card that comes in the HG package from Subaru when I borrow his wrench. I have the beam types - I hate them. I used to mark them with paint and use them for lugs. Then I just bought a Hardor Freight/ Northern Tool, I don't even remember cheap clicker that I just leave set to 85 lbs for lugs. Turns out that's about what I did by feel anyways on aluminum wheels. Yea - I know I shouldn't leave the high quality chinese torgue wrench set. I still go by feel mostly anyway. Figure it's better than nothing.

Appreciate all the thoughts. This is a 99. I plugged in the green connectors. Went to Sears/Walmart 25 miles away and back. Dropped it at the inspection garage. Tomorrow I should find out if it was reset. I didn't think to take my cheap OBDII scanner. Then again with no CEL I haven't had good luck with it finding "pending" issues even when I'm looking for them. Like after swapping O2 sensors with a used one, attempting to fix the wires on an O2 sensor, etc.

I haven't done one lately (in the past month or so) so I don't remember the specific issues so I can't help you there. But I use Engine Assembly Lube. It's red/maroon and a bit tacky.

Sounds good. Sign me up! Not a valid option for me unfortunately. A lot of the reading about putting some miles/cycles on the car scare me a bit. I live in a decently hilly area. They want 30 minutes of 55 mph without the throttle angle changing? What are these engineers? How about a little real world reality please.

Someone told me to connect the 2 green connectors under the dash. Drive 10-20 miles with the CEL blinking. Disconnect them. Get retested. This is what I'm planning on trying

I didn't get the full explanation. But it sounds like it thinks codes were cleared in the not too distant past. I haven't cleared any codes. But I did have the battery disconnected replacing the clock spring to get the Airbag light out. Since then it has gone 2 trips probably 25-30 miles each. CEL hasn't been on in the time that I've had it. I fixed a BAD oil leak, clock spring. LR window regulator, etc. Put new NGK plugs in, changed oil and filter. Has Packard plug wires. I didn't really know what to search for about getting this to reset. So I didn't find a good procedure. What's the fastest ways to reset this so that I can hopefully get it retested today?

I have some Outback front seats. They don't match all that well color wise. The back seat I wouldn't imagine would interchange between Legacy and Impreza sedans and definatley not from the Legacy Outback Wagon into an Impreza sedan.

We used to put these on a lift, lift both axles, pull the tires, put lugs back on. Start car, have someone hit the gas to 10mph or so. Take a screwdriver, brace it against the fender, make contact with the rotor. You should be able to identify it this way. Should work fine on jack stands as well. Common sense, a runoff area, etc. Atleast there is no need to be under the car.

Thanks. I just got a 96 Impreza for parts. Front seats are dirty but not worn through on the lumbar support. Back seat is broken. But atleast all the seats are Grey. Guess I'll pull the fronts and see how they clean up. Then wonder if anyone will notice the front seats not matching the rear seat and door trim. I'll tell them anyways. Appreciate the reply.

Have a worn front seat. Car-part isn't helping - lists by single year. What years Impreza will work? Will any Legacy seats work? This is one area where the Impreza does seem to be a bit "cheaper". Only one hit searching "seat interchange" ant it was an old generation thread.