davebugs

It worked. Green connectors. 25 mile trip to go shopping and back with the CEL blinking the whole time. Nothing not ready (there had been 3). Passed emissions with no issues

We haven't had a local Snap-on guy for probably 2 years. Last swivel head ratchet that I had that needed fixed/replaced took about 5 weeks. Matco, Mac, and Sears are picking up business for hand tools. Think about it. Would be a tough gig to feed one of those trucks and drive around. They probably concentrate on the big ticket electronics and stuff. Snap-on is dwindling fast around here. I sold an old Legacy to a Snap-on dealer from 50 miles away a year or so ago. I've been buying more and more Sears just for convenience. But as they cut back on what they stock they start overnighting the broken tool to you. Sucks when you're inthe middle of a project. But still WAY before I'd see a Snap-on guy. As a result I do buy some Snap-on but at auctions and on Ebay. Last new piece I bought was a 1/4 swivel head ratchet that I use for torque converter bolts mostly. I posted in the tool thread that not Gearwrench makes a set of 1/4 and 3/8 for 60 bucks (I got mine cheaper off Ebay). I paid 80 for just the Snap-on and I swear it's the same unit. The torque wrenches are nice. I guess I'm old school in thinking that hand tools shouldn't take batteries. And with no local service I just couldn't bring myself to pay the price for Snap-on.

Those engines were worth some serious money. Selling them was a smarter thing to do rather than taking on a project like this. When you do a different manufacturer engine swap you want to use cheap and plentiful engines hopefully with a big aftermarket parts offering. None of this really applies to the TDI. Don't know what he got for the car or if he sold them both - but I think it'd be the way to go.

I broke down and got a decent Sears clicker to do the low torque necessary for the HG jobs. I waited until it was on sale for 100 bucks. I often borrow a friends fancy Snap-on. It's cool because it does the vibration thing and all. But what I really like is that you can read the final torque of each bolt in the final tightening phase. You can read the torque on the readout going either direction. Usually they are all in a range within 20 lbs - usually maybe 10 pounds or so. I forget the exact range. I usually write the #'s down for each bolt on each head on the card that comes in the HG package from Subaru when I borrow his wrench. I have the beam types - I hate them. I used to mark them with paint and use them for lugs. Then I just bought a Hardor Freight/ Northern Tool, I don't even remember cheap clicker that I just leave set to 85 lbs for lugs. Turns out that's about what I did by feel anyways on aluminum wheels. Yea - I know I shouldn't leave the high quality chinese torgue wrench set. I still go by feel mostly anyway. Figure it's better than nothing.

Appreciate all the thoughts. This is a 99. I plugged in the green connectors. Went to Sears/Walmart 25 miles away and back. Dropped it at the inspection garage. Tomorrow I should find out if it was reset. I didn't think to take my cheap OBDII scanner. Then again with no CEL I haven't had good luck with it finding "pending" issues even when I'm looking for them. Like after swapping O2 sensors with a used one, attempting to fix the wires on an O2 sensor, etc.

I haven't done one lately (in the past month or so) so I don't remember the specific issues so I can't help you there. But I use Engine Assembly Lube. It's red/maroon and a bit tacky.

Sounds good. Sign me up! Not a valid option for me unfortunately. A lot of the reading about putting some miles/cycles on the car scare me a bit. I live in a decently hilly area. They want 30 minutes of 55 mph without the throttle angle changing? What are these engineers? How about a little real world reality please.

Someone told me to connect the 2 green connectors under the dash. Drive 10-20 miles with the CEL blinking. Disconnect them. Get retested. This is what I'm planning on trying

I didn't get the full explanation. But it sounds like it thinks codes were cleared in the not too distant past. I haven't cleared any codes. But I did have the battery disconnected replacing the clock spring to get the Airbag light out. Since then it has gone 2 trips probably 25-30 miles each. CEL hasn't been on in the time that I've had it. I fixed a BAD oil leak, clock spring. LR window regulator, etc. Put new NGK plugs in, changed oil and filter. Has Packard plug wires. I didn't really know what to search for about getting this to reset. So I didn't find a good procedure. What's the fastest ways to reset this so that I can hopefully get it retested today?

I have some Outback front seats. They don't match all that well color wise. The back seat I wouldn't imagine would interchange between Legacy and Impreza sedans and definatley not from the Legacy Outback Wagon into an Impreza sedan.

We used to put these on a lift, lift both axles, pull the tires, put lugs back on. Start car, have someone hit the gas to 10mph or so. Take a screwdriver, brace it against the fender, make contact with the rotor. You should be able to identify it this way. Should work fine on jack stands as well. Common sense, a runoff area, etc. Atleast there is no need to be under the car.

Thanks. I just got a 96 Impreza for parts. Front seats are dirty but not worn through on the lumbar support. Back seat is broken. But atleast all the seats are Grey. Guess I'll pull the fronts and see how they clean up. Then wonder if anyone will notice the front seats not matching the rear seat and door trim. I'll tell them anyways. Appreciate the reply.

Have a worn front seat. Car-part isn't helping - lists by single year. What years Impreza will work? Will any Legacy seats work? This is one area where the Impreza does seem to be a bit "cheaper". Only one hit searching "seat interchange" ant it was an old generation thread.

There will probably be more pics. I've received a few including new toys/interests. I'm starting to get jealous. He's just not online much. Like I said. Skip and the Captain are alive and well and enjoying themselves. Just not online much. Even emails are very infrequent.

Search for a thread started by me a year or so ago. I ended up using Wolf's Head universal synthetic in the GF's car a 2006 Impreza. After much research, talking with their tech guy a few times, etc. The fluid was way, way dirty. I drain and filled 4 times. I tried to post a pic (actually I think someone else posted it for me). I still have the samples now in clear water bottles. At the time it was almost 50 bucks a case. But that was about in the timeframe when all the oils, etc were skyrocketing. Took 14 qts for 4 drain/fills IIR. Not an outright recommendation, just an experience and decision that I made with my sex life on the line(talk about pressure!). Try this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86859&highlight=wolf%27s

Invest in a 14mm swivel socket for the lower drivers side nut.

That's what I use.

Skip is fine. He's just offline and largely unavailable most of the time.

I downloaded the 97 & 99 FSM's from there a while ago. And another site for the 2.2's that I don't recall. I don't recall if I was following the Endwrench article, the FSM, or the procedure from a fella's writeup from his comcast website. Subaru360 was probably one of the folks who helped me out when I snapped mine off. So follow the procedure with much less torque for the front bolts.

Yep - yesterday. PM me if you're interested. He won't be around much for a while and spotty when he is. Nothing to do with anything that happened here.

Yep. Reset it. Amazing security - car runs/drives but flashers blink slowly - indefinately I believe not just 30 times.

What car? Or should we automatically know just by your name - like you only have one car and that's the one you happen to be working on? Folks here are good - but some basics are on order. Probably the alarm system. Use the remote to lock and unlock, hit the reset button, whatever. You could try search - it's been covered MANY times. If it's the AT oil temp light - you have a Duty C solenoid issue.

The front ones have half the torque as the others. The shaft of the bolt is also thinner. I believe the just posted FSM pages show this as well.

Excellent FSM info. If he's following the Endwrench article it MAY have it. I say may because I try to follow directions pretty closely and missed the different torque's on the different cam cap bolts. Luckily I had another set of 97 heads torn apart so I had some here. I did get me some spiffy new EZ outs though. Not much room for error when youi're working on heads.

One of the very few things I'll take a car to the dealer to diagnose. Just did it a few weeks ago. Best 50 bucks I've spent in a long time. CLock spring (or whatever Subaru calls it) was bad. On the way I realized the horn didn't blow and that it was probably the clock spring. They found the ABS connectors (jambed BEHIND the fuse block and almost crushed), flashed the code. Grabbed a wireing harness section with a resistor and confirmed the clock spring. I could have spent many days(partly because I'm not very good at electrical stuff) and don't have the necessary expertise or patience for any sophisticated electrical problem. SRS stuff is on a whole different level? Replaced the clock spring on thursday and the light went off.