davebugs

There will probably be more pics. I've received a few including new toys/interests. I'm starting to get jealous. He's just not online much. Like I said. Skip and the Captain are alive and well and enjoying themselves. Just not online much. Even emails are very infrequent.

Search for a thread started by me a year or so ago. I ended up using Wolf's Head universal synthetic in the GF's car a 2006 Impreza. After much research, talking with their tech guy a few times, etc. The fluid was way, way dirty. I drain and filled 4 times. I tried to post a pic (actually I think someone else posted it for me). I still have the samples now in clear water bottles. At the time it was almost 50 bucks a case. But that was about in the timeframe when all the oils, etc were skyrocketing. Took 14 qts for 4 drain/fills IIR. Not an outright recommendation, just an experience and decision that I made with my sex life on the line(talk about pressure!). Try this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86859&highlight=wolf%27s

Invest in a 14mm swivel socket for the lower drivers side nut.

That's what I use.

Skip is fine. He's just offline and largely unavailable most of the time.

I downloaded the 97 & 99 FSM's from there a while ago. And another site for the 2.2's that I don't recall. I don't recall if I was following the Endwrench article, the FSM, or the procedure from a fella's writeup from his comcast website. Subaru360 was probably one of the folks who helped me out when I snapped mine off. So follow the procedure with much less torque for the front bolts.

Yep - yesterday. PM me if you're interested. He won't be around much for a while and spotty when he is. Nothing to do with anything that happened here.

Yep. Reset it. Amazing security - car runs/drives but flashers blink slowly - indefinately I believe not just 30 times.

What car? Or should we automatically know just by your name - like you only have one car and that's the one you happen to be working on? Folks here are good - but some basics are on order. Probably the alarm system. Use the remote to lock and unlock, hit the reset button, whatever. You could try search - it's been covered MANY times. If it's the AT oil temp light - you have a Duty C solenoid issue.

The front ones have half the torque as the others. The shaft of the bolt is also thinner. I believe the just posted FSM pages show this as well.

Excellent FSM info. If he's following the Endwrench article it MAY have it. I say may because I try to follow directions pretty closely and missed the different torque's on the different cam cap bolts. Luckily I had another set of 97 heads torn apart so I had some here. I did get me some spiffy new EZ outs though. Not much room for error when youi're working on heads.

One of the very few things I'll take a car to the dealer to diagnose. Just did it a few weeks ago. Best 50 bucks I've spent in a long time. CLock spring (or whatever Subaru calls it) was bad. On the way I realized the horn didn't blow and that it was probably the clock spring. They found the ABS connectors (jambed BEHIND the fuse block and almost crushed), flashed the code. Grabbed a wireing harness section with a resistor and confirmed the clock spring. I could have spent many days(partly because I'm not very good at electrical stuff) and don't have the necessary expertise or patience for any sophisticated electrical problem. SRS stuff is on a whole different level? Replaced the clock spring on thursday and the light went off.

I snapped a couple of those one time - not pleasant. The ones at the front of the engine are a different(less) torque than the other 6 per cam.

I use an impact tool to remove the baffle plate screws. One of the ones that you smack with a hammer. Sometimes you can bugger up a phillips head. I resently ordered (form the local bnody supply shop) one of those white disks to have "next time" after probably doing 10 HG jobs. I had trouble finding them. Most places stock yellow and Green I think, but not the white.

I agree completely. I believe the best work is done with the engine out of the car. I'm not trying to prove anything to anybody. I'm trying to do the best, most thorough job possible. Others will argue - but I just don't see how they can do as good of a job. Whatever works for them. I'll continue to pull them. In the end I don't believe that it takes any longer to pull the engine to do the work. Especially if you factor in possible issues from things not noticed or handled well (block prep comes immediately to mind). Gotta run.

All the oil pump and baffle plate screws that I have ever seen have been Phillips. Glad you got the heads cleaned up. Tell us again why you messed with the rear main? It's not part of thoroughness - it's asking for trouble most of the time.

I can usually get it accomplished with some scotchbrite. Someone here in the past recommended very fine paper on a piece of Plexiglas - sounds logical. Yet another reason to do this out of the car.

I run a very small bead around the groove in the baffle plate and oil pump. I always do a look around bolt holes. These are basically machined surfaces so not much is needed - it's not like you're really filling a gap. The smallest opening that you can cut on the tip. It's pretty stiff stuff when you're tryinig to squeeze it through such a small hole. I have another tip with a slightly larger opening I use for cam caps, oil pans, etc. I think folks usually use too much. Whether it causes problems or not I don't know. It does waste material and look ugly, and I can see how it could cause harm - I've just never seen it. I always let the ultra-grey set overnight. Infact when I pull an engine (or have one delivered) I do the baffle plate before bolting it to the engine stand to do the rest of the work. This also gives you the benefit to tilt the engine to assist with no oil coming out to be able to clean it better and have the engine surface dry when applying the baffle plate.

That pic looks like the Torque Converter bolt is missing(but it is hard to tell since the bolt top is shallow and flat with rounded edges). But you should still see the flexplate move. Did you remove the TC bolts and not reinstall them?

I know that you used to be able to substitute a Dayco for not much more money. And they were excited they were getting those Gates belts. I call them and get the idlers and NO belt. I have a standard order for my local auto parts store for NGK plugs, Timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, exhaust gaskets everytime I do a 2.2. Valve cover sets as needed. Then to the dealer for a WP gasket, cranks seal, cam seals, Orings(for 2.2's), and any other odd parts.

Welcome. Please update your state, not just your city. You'll find a lot of knowledge here. Don't be afraid to use the search function. You'll find that most here are interested in keeping pretty reliable cars on the road. If you're looking for performance stuff, stereo stuff, I think there are better sites.

For the money a cheap ODBII scanner is 50 bucks and will save you a ton of time on this project and in the future. But you'll only get codes if it actually tries to run. Not to mention no frustration with finding and plugging in those goofy wires.

WP gasket - dry. Yet another reason to use the OEM gasket. Orings oil or vaseline (vaseline for the oil pump). Outside of crank and cam seals I leave dry, assembly lube on the inside. All my personal preference. Other may tell you theirs.

Infact you just added another variable to the mix.

I'm not understanding what a "coil cover" is. Please describe it better or better yet post a pic. Change BOTH wires front to back. Search here on wasted spark ignition to understand more. A break in EITHER wire could show up as a code for both cylinders. Please confirm Suby wires and NGK plugs. This will help check out the electrical part of the fireing. I'm not an electrical expert at all but these are common sense steps to help diagnose. Others here may be able to help with if the spark has enough power, etc. that are more electrically inclined. Have you pulled the plugs from both cylinders to see if they are wet after cranking? To confirm that those cylinders are getting fuel? What are the actual code #'s