davebugs

If the belt was that far away from the change interval you gotta let us know what failed and what brand the part was. Did the belt fail on its own? Did an Idler or the WP fail? Did a cam lockup? I'm VERY curious. And always interested in hearing about parts failures to learn about what not to use. PM me if necessary.

First - use a good quality socket. Second - I use a long breaker bar. This lets me keep one hand on the socket/breaker bar head and the other on the handle. You may need a cheater bar in order to get the needed leverage with one hand on the handle. I always have the head I'm working on at the top position on the engine stand. I've never had an issue with the socket coming off. But if you look at the bolt head's shape, add in the torque you need to apply, you can see a potential problem that's why I put a hand there. When installing the new HG's and torqueing then down in certain steps it's tough since for most torque wrenches to be accurate you're supposed to have both hands at the end of the handle. When you get to the loosening and tightening by fractions of a turn I go back to one hand on the head of the breaker bar(since the torque wrench is no longer used - atleast by me). Things are getting pretty tight by then. Why a 12 point? Why else would anyone buy a quality 12 point set I guess. VW does the same on some things. Like the 2.0 Crank bolts. Hey - atleast it's not a "specialty tool" - read $$$ Good luck.

They are tough. Helps to have someone hold the engine stand if possible. I jamb it against my lift so it can't move. Those puppies will creak when coming out (and some will going in it seems no matter how well lubed). Read the Endwrench procedure for the order. I have a hunk of cardboard for each head to keep track of their positions. On some heads they say that isn't necessary. I figure it can't hurt anything. I use a 1/2 longer breaker bar. I'm not a guy who works out but I'm 6'2" and about 235 and not a couch potato. Them puppies are on there - as they should be. Often they are tight for a few revolutions. I ALWAYS run the bolts in and out with no air tools. I want to feel any resistance. Again a personal preference - there are a lot of threads. Don't forget you'll be re-installing them to the same torque and trying to pay attention to partial revolutions in the long installation sequence.

Friends with no money. Common issue. Amazing isn't it. Ignore it until it breaks then beg for mercy. A car is an investment just like anything else. o.k. it's a depreciating investment. But you still have some control of the overall cost with proper maintenance. Invest as you go, or invest multiples later. Over the years personally this is what I've learned (and my friends learned). I'll help them maintain their cars. If something like a TB breaks because it wasn't done don't even call me, you're on your own. Now if you want to do a TB because it's due thats a much different story. Works for me. Needy friends are easy to come by it seems. PM me.

I have EJ22 parts engines as well but someone closer to you has to have the parts when you figure out what you need.

I'd do this. I'd pull the engine. Remove heads. Examine pistons. If pistons not bad have head fixed or used heads(and I'd probably have them checked). Seal everything up (crank, cams, oil pump, baffle plate) new plugs, reinstall. I looked up where you are. I'll be near Brookville next weekend. I have parts engines here if you want used heads. I have a couple 97 2.2's here.

Based on what I've witnessed (and sweated out myself) on a SOHC as long as the crank was in position I've been o.k. Actually that cam has enough load that I always imagined a fella could still bend the valves turning it by hand and not know.

Just call whoever you buy parts from. You'll want the upgraded metal one and the new screws that it takes. I don't know it that's what will be listed for the 95, but it's what you want if yours needs replacing.

Use a screwdriver to pry it over to the left. I've even redone TB's when I've forgotten this step. If it's non-interference I guess you could take the chance. It'll proably be o.k. while things are new (and unstrectched or worn). I wouldn't - but you could be a case study - you may be o.k. maybe not... In my opinion it must be needed. First Suby I did I was amazed that those were a bit slotted and that they could be "adjusted" before I saw in the procedure how to use them - it's not really an adjustment it's mandatory. Gotta wonder about the design. Why didn't they make the plunger 1/8" longer and just have 2 regular bolt holes on the tensioner?

I don't know what your you're working on but I have a set of DOHC heads already torn apart. IIR a pair of 97's. Idler failure, I already sold the short block. Some bent valves. I had to steal some cam cap bolts for another job (they had been rounded by someone prior probably adjusting the shims for the valves). But I've got the cams, caps, etc. FWIW I've never seen your issue before either. I did drop Delta Cam a PM a while ago to see if they were still interested in cams, heads, etc. I have about a dozen parts engines around here 2.2 and 2.5's and haven't heard back. I don't really know what they are worth. The 97 had 111k on it. The TB melting onto the idler for the tensioner was really something. Dealer had done TB at 100k and didn't do the idlers(according to the PO never recommended idlers) and at 111k it had a meltdown.

Hey - an English teacher has arrived!! You're gonna be VERY busy around here. Yes - that's what I meant.

I use Permatex(I believe) Ultra Grey for everything on Suby engines. It sets up a bit firmer than some RTV's. I use it for oil pans, baffle plates, by the cam corners on DOHC's when doing HG jobs, to reseal the oil pump (along with a new Oring). Everything that needs sealed on a Suby. Easy to find, reasonably priced. Not to say there may be better or more pricey stuff. But it seems to work well for me and I'm not a shortcut kinda guy.

Other than the backfire it could be the alternator. You seem to loose the ability to do higher RPM's as the battery keeps de-charging. If the battery is good setting for a little while will rejuvinate it - for a while until you run it down again. First time it happened to me on a Suby I was replacing the fuel filter and stuff like that thinking it was RPM related (and the associated fuel needed form the pump, through the filter, etc.) But I've never had it cause a backfire. I'm amazed by the weird problems caused on Suby's by alternators - and how they seem to often need alternators. Someitmes it causes the ABS and another light (I forget) to come on apparently due to the low power.

Welcome. Thats an EJ22. Be aware it's very likely that it's not the oil pan - it just looks that way. The "baffle plate" or "oil seperator plate" leaks on the back of these engines (it's rarely the main sela that most folks suggest NOT to touch - even if the engine is out). There is no oil pan gasket. It's RTV - most use Ultra Grey.

Protect that rad with a large piece or cardboard, plastic, paneling, something.

The factory doesn't use anti-seize. I swear the replacement interval has more to do with gaulding than plug performance. Dielectric grease and anti-seize. If that's the same engine in a 2006 Inpreza 2.5 they aren't bad at all (compared to the DOHC 2.5). As stated no need to remove the battery. Don't forget to anti-seize the washer bottle screws heavily.

I don't. See a similat thread about doing hte crank seal while the oil pump is off within the last few weeks. It's personal preference - but I install AFTER that little piece over the canshaft is back on the engine.

I smack it from several angles with a rubber mallett. I had a stubborn one this week myself. With the engine in the car. I used a long pry bar to pry against where the AC tensioner gets bolted to. I think I also found a similar pry point on the passegner side. Mallet, pry, pry, rotate a little, mallett, pry, pry. All this after PB blaster on the outside (replacing TB anyways), and inside(since the bolt was removed it can actually get in there as well. Once it wiggles a little you're on your way. Patience.

Yep - now you've got it. It really gets squished when you tighten the plastic snout. I can probably get you some bolts tomorrow - but by the time I'd mail them, etc the hardware store (or dealer) would be easier. I'm thinking they may have a coating to resist rust? Kinda look a little like brass(yellowish) but aren't brass.

I'm not sure (can't recall). But on 95 and up the gasket goes AROUND the thermostat.

Welcome. I believe you wnat the new generation for sale/wanted section. Please also update your profile with a city and state.

I use Dayco belts and on the DOHC's they look like they don't quite line up. I thought it was me. The first few I kept removing and redoing the belt (which meant recompressing the tensioner, etc). I didn't realize the Suby belts lined up better until I had a Suby tech do a 2.5 DOHC TB job for a friend of mine. He had never used a Dayco and had the same alignment issues that I have every time. Since he's used to only OEM parts he hadn't seen this. He called me to see if I had this happen to me since he knows I've done a lot of them with the Dayco belts. So if you're paranoid at all I'd spend the money on the dealer belt. IIR the marks on the cam pulleys on the drivers side where they point to each other is where they didn't exactly match. I have a pic on my laptop somewhere but I doubt that I can find it easily. I've still never used a Suby belt of any kind.

Never did a Suby tranny in a JY. Some of those places have jersey barriers and for a few bucks they will take the car, put it on the jersey barriers so that you can remove the tranny. Tires are always my landing pad of choice. Often they don't allow floor jacks - but the screw jacks you get out of the cars are allowed. Along with old rims as jack stands. Tedious but I've done it on other cars.

14mm 12 point IIR - I pulled it out of another set and keep it on my cart. You can actually fond free stuff on endwrench - but I have a helluva time. That's why I suggested searching here for the links. I've NEVER needed to know the coolant plug size - wonder why you feel you need to mess with it, or are referring to something else?

Search here for endwrench.com articles - or search there yourself(I never have much luck searching on Endwrench even thought I know what I'm looking for exists there). The re-assembly is even more critical and complicated.