davebugs

Well done. I usually smack the pulley (after the bolt has been removed) from a few different directions with a rubber mallet. Then it's just wiggling.

There are no good options if you don't have the tool. If the engine is in the car I hate to either jamb something into the flexplate or the teeth on the flywheel. You could knock or bend something, but mostly because I have trouble with keeping the wedge in there (since I'm almost always working alone). First time I heard about the starter trick I though it was a weird deal. But I've used it many times. If I'm pulling the engine with my new impact I should be o.k. in the future With the engine on the stand I find it a bit easier. But I've learned 2 things. I break the crank bolt while the engine is still in the car(even on parts engines I'm removing - given that I remember), and I break loose the cam bolts BEFORE removing the TB - again - assuming I remember if I'm doing heads. Also throw in there aligning the TB before removing the old one.

I use a pices of scrap wood - a 1x6. I usually use a rubber mallett. Sometimes I need to switch to a real hammer - or a 2 lb sledge since it's flat on the side and easier to strike the wood evenly - no thard - but evenly.

On the RARE occasion that I need to do a rear main (which the local dealer doesn't even stock) I use a PVC collar as well. But I believe you are still asking for trouble doing them. The only ones I've done are from someone doing them prior. I've never seen a factory one leak. Weep a little - but it's always hard to tell due to the oil from the baffle plate. I'm usually working on cars with 100-200k on them. YMMV

Sounds like you still may need a harmonic balancer. But atleast you can continue your teardown.

Sounds like the rubber in your harmonic balancer may have gone bad. Use the starter of the car with the breaker bar over by the battery tray. There is a current thread about a crank bolt but your situation is different.

If you're lucky. I've taken to trying them while still on the car. So that I can use the breaker bar trick if necessary. I recently broke down and purchased the IR 2131QT 1/2" impact that was on sale at Sears for 149. They had been going for 120 or so USED on Ebay. My main reason for getting it was that it has 600 ft/lb in reverse. Occasionally none of my 3 impacts will remove that bolt so I had to go borrow someone else's gun. I don't like to borrow tools. Good luck with the removel - but yea - standard threads. I have trouble with about 1 in 10 it seems.

It's standard threads. If you don't have the correct harmonic balancer tool you can cheat by putting your breaker bar over by the battery tray and hitting the key to get it loose. Of course then you gotta worry about how to torgue the thing tight when re-installing.

Too bad you're so far away. I'm getting in a 99 Impreza sedan on wednesday. 66k, auto, major oil leak on front of engine. Red, with a grey interior 4 door, no ABS. Needs a few odds and ends, already has a few minor dents. Manual windows IIR. Probably gonna be in the 3k-3,500 range after it gets a clock spring, oil pump Oring amd sealed, crank seal, cam seals, Timing belt, accessory belts, etc. This may be the first car I don't install a new WP and idlers on - it's only got 66k. Cheaper if youd buy it as is. I've been waiting on this car for months. They finally brought it last week and the airbag light was on. Took it to the dealer to diagnose - it's the clock spring (Subaru has a different name) so I got it cheaper but it's something else to fix - a fix I haven't done on a Suby before. Anyways I'm trying to get the cars cleaned up for the summer so that I can play with my antiques. I'd be open to selling it as-is.

Here's an idea. Update your profile so that we know where you're at!!! If you don't want to tackle this someone here may be able to recommend a shop. If it's a shop unfirmiliar with Suby's you might as well do it yourself again.

Clean and lube them. Looking for cracks in the boot, rust/crap on the pin, etc. Take advantage(sort of) of the fact that the car is together. Feel both rims after a drive to make sure it's both sides. You had stated that the pads wore evenly. Almost sounding more like a bad caliper than a problem with the pins/lube, etc. Check to make sure it's both sides.

Yea - don't touch the rear main. I don't believe that you answered the question on what brand of seals that you did use.

I'd love to attend but I don't see it happenning. Appreciate the invite of the folks here though.

Much ado about nothing. You're really looking for problems. Drive and enjoy, don't sweat this. That's my opinion.

The quick lube places apparently don't put them on either(if they did they'd probably be 5 bucks). Life goes on without them. I'm usually servicing friends/family or cars to sell. Can't rely on oil getting checked, leaks on ground being reported, etc. Folks don't like to see drips. I prefer to minimize them when possible.

I think they are .53 or so at the dealer. I buy a pack of 6 often. At Advance they are more than a buck or so a piece. Come in a cute little display box made to hang on a large display black/yellow. I wanna say 3 bucks for 2 crush washers. I keep the copper assortment here. Some cars (like a 2003 Acura that I maintain) there is hardly any room for a crush washer or even a wide copper washer. Some of the Chevy's get a copper washer. FYI that's all you got on the air cooled VW's. And hardly the reason they leak oil (lots of other reasons). In my opinion beats nothing or a steel washer.

A little more info please. Did you "service" the brakes. Or just slap rotors and pads on? Did you check/lube, etc the sliders? Why were the old pads worn? Like - the inside was shot and the outside pads had a lot left.

Im a jamb I'll use copper or aluminum flat washers since they are soft enough to crush a bit.

Please update your location. Some of us probably have this tool. There was a post here within the last year on how to use hex keys rubber bands, duct tape, and JB weld of some such combination rather than the proper tool. I just had a tool made. Others may have the factory tool. I'd imagine for a deposit you could borrow one. Myself I require a deposit. Funny how folks can drive 100 miles in a few hours to obtain the tool. Then it takes weeks to return it. Those of us that have tools USE THEM - that's why we have them. Speaking for myself I don't have any issues loaning them - just don't screw up what I am needing to do. A deposit gives incentive.

edrach, Wonder if the OP will have the courtesy to update us on what the issue was?

Glad you got it out. Perhaps a local member has new studs for the bottom ones that you bent. If not drop me a PM - but I'm on the other side of the country. I try to have a few of them around already removed incase the JY screws up the ends of the threads.

I'll be offline until tomorrow. And I probably won't be on much until later tomorrow. But I'm curious what your issue is. Good luck. It's either something simple you've forgotten. Or just the crap that welds these pieces together in the rust belt. Even when you start to get a crack. Work in small increments all the way around. I try and cheat the drivers side the most. Since it's the most congested. I'd rather have it running slightly ahead as far as a gap goes. That way if it torque binds a bit it's on the passenger side and easier access.

Not counting the exhaust stuff - how many bolts/nuts have you removed. Pitch stopper? (engine will come out with it in place but they don't seem to go back in with this in place. 4 eng/trans bolts/nuts 2 motor mount bolts. 4 Torque converter bolts. Search isn't working properly (or it's taking a while for it to see posts from today) Before I move on can we atleast hear how many botls/nuts you've removed? When you said "removed all bolts". That doesn't really tell us and probably isn't acurate. I've forgotten both motor mount and TC bolts until I have difficulties and recheck what I've done.

Torque converter bolts!!!!!

I'll start with quick answers before a longer list. Tranny supported WELL. In addition to making sure the "pitch" of the engine is correct sometimes it helps to take weight off the engine and thus lots of weight on the tranny support. The dowel pins - PB, Liquid wrench, etc. On a recent engine removal the tranny actually broke a piece around the passenger side dowell. Anyway with the tranny holding this extra load start with thin long screwdrivers. I also spray the engine/trans matting with PB. BTW I also scotchbrite both bellhousings and anti-seize them before re-install.