biggman100

My intake has the threaded opening for the EGR tube, but the head doesn't. Right now, the EGR tube hole in the intake is plugged with an extra oil drain plug.

Ok, so I replaced the bottom end on my 03 outback with one from an 01 Forester. However, the new bottom end doesn't have EGR, and my car does, so, my question has to do with something I read on here regarding the older cars and that issue. I read several times you can plumb the EGR tube into the IAC hose, and not have to drill the head, but, will that also work on the '00-'04 cars as well? For now the EGR port on the intake is plugged (I used the 03 intake), with the drain plug from the old oil pan. The reason I am hoping this will work is because the car is due for inspection in April, and, I really don't want to have to pull the engine out a third time, just to drill and thread that hole (I know I would never get the head drilled and tapped for the tube right with the engine in the car), since that engine is only temporary. I'm currently, slowly as funds allow, having the original bottom end rebuilt, and will hopefully have it back in the car by mid summer. Also, is the EGR tube thread M20x1.25 or M20x1.5? I found brass fittings that are threaded on one side and barbed on the other in both thread sizes.

I finally got a chance to really look at it, and it turned out to be the driveshaft (prop shaft). It was odd though, because, when the car was sitting, it would somehow cause the center bearing to lock so it didn't feel loose at all. I only figured it out by getting under it, with the left rear on jack stands, and having someone spin the left rear wheel while I watched the driveshaft rotate. It got to a specific spot, then it came loose. Got another shaft at a u-pull yard for $23 on sale, and the vibration is gone.

Look for a 2001-2004 OB sedan or wagon without the limited or premium package, but has the cold weather package. Every OB I have owned in the 2001-2004 range had cloth heated seats, so they should be plentiful in most local salvage yards. I am not a fan of leather, so I only look for vehicles with cloth seats.

I don't think it's brakes, because they are all new, and I made absolutely sure none of the pins, or any of the calipers were sticking. I typically drive between 80 and 140 miles a day, so I always make sure brakes are good. I'm starting to think it is either one of the rear cv axles, wheel bearing, or possibly the driveshaft. One thing I haven't tried though is to put the FWD fuse on, so, I will try that Wednesday when I drive it again. Ever since I bought this car, I have been over the suspension multiple times, because of my ultimate plan for it (my plan is to add a 3 inch lift and bigger wheels and tires for playing off road a bit), and, other than a broken rear left sway bar link, I haven't found any other issues there.

Actually, it doesn't change whether accelerating, braking, or just driving steady, but, it has now also started doing it between 50 and 60 as well. I haven't been able to do much with it though, because it's currently around 7 degrees F out, and I don't have a garage anymore. It is starting to seem like it's the right rear that is doing it though.

I have an '03 Outback wagon that all of a sudden developed a vibration, that seems like its from the rear, between 32 and 40MPH. Some background on this car. I bought it about a year ago with bad head gaskets, and then, while test driving it (i punched out the thermostat and drove it for about a week to see what else might be wrong with it), it blew the timing belt. I fixed all that, including new valves, gaskets, seals, timing belt, water pump, and then, after about 5300 miles, the bottom end started knocking, so, i went and got a used engine for it, installed that (in between the first and second engine though, the car sat roughly 4 months), and, all of a sudden the vibration started. It was never there before when i was driving it before the first engine completely went, and also wasnt there for the first 500 miles after i put this engine in, but, in the last 400 miles, it has slowly gotten worse. I have checked the rear diff, brakes, rear axles, rear driveshaft (the best i could anyway), tires (while checking all that, i found a broken rear sway bar link, but i doubt that is the cause), and everything else i could think of, and so far, dont see anything it could possibly be. I was thinking of putting the FWD fuse in to see if maybe its transmission related (the TC did slide out a small bit when i pulled the engine, but it went right back in), and, it was a quart low on transmission fluid, but only for maybe a day ( ever since i put the engine in, i have been very diligent about checking things), so, any idea on what i should possibly focus on that might be the cause?

I overheard a couple people talking about a 2010 Impreza, and the one guy was absolutely convinced that you can reuse MLS head gaskets if they have less than 3000 miles on them. What do you guys think? Me personally, I think they are crazy. For a little more context though, the one guy is a very firm believer in, you can especially reuse them if you use the copper gasket spray, as long as it's before the engines first oil change.

Do you mean block to manifold? I know on some of the 2000-2001 engines, the PCV setup is vastly different. If I'm using my manifold, then the manifold to air box would be the same. On my car, it just has a single hose from the block to the intake for the PCV, unless I am misunderstanding what you mean. I haven't really messed with anything newer than an 06, and that was just minor stuff.

I have an 03 Legacy Outback wagon with a 2.5 and AT. Less than 5000 miles ago, I did the heads (new valves and valve seals, had the heads surfaced), because, when I bought the car, it had bad head gaskets, and, while driving it for a few days, with the thermostat punched out so water would just flow non-stop, so I could see what else it might need, it blew the timing belt. So, I fixed all those issues, but, now, it's got a bottom end knock. The issue is, around here, 2000-2004 2.5's in decent shape are nearly impossible to find, and, the only two shops here quoted me $1200+, if I pull the heads back off, and bring them just the short block. So, my question is, are there any other years that just the short block will work from? According to what I found, the head gaskets are the same for some models up to 2011, so, what other differences could there be in just the bottom end? I know I would need my crank pulley, and possibly the knock sensor, but, what else might I need to swap over?

I have to ask, which version of the show? The original or the remake?

I am trying to use the short block from an 01 Impreza in an 01 Legacy L, and i ran into a bit of an issue with the PCV and EGR set ups. The short block i am using has EGR, but the car doesnt, so, i am trying to verify what size the EGR tube threads are so i can get a plug for the head. I have heard M16x1.5, m19x1.5, and m20x1.5, so which one would be the correct one? The other issue is the PCV. One the old engine, it had the fitting in the pic circled in black in the pic. One the new engine, it had the PCV valve threaded into the block, with a single hose, so, does anyone know the thread size of the PCV valve? I need to get an adapter to hook up the hose set up in the second pic, since that is what the car originally had.

I have a friend who has the exact same car i do (ok, so i talked her into it), which is an 04 Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5L, auto, that needs both O2 sensors replaced. Right now, they dont have the money to buy OEM, and really only need it to pass inspection in 2 days, and, while searching, i found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Amrxuts-2003-2004-2003-2006-22641-AA140-22641-AA280/dp/B07D33GK73/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=DENSO%2B2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Germban-234-9015-2003-2004-2003-2006-22641-AA280/dp/B075L5K92Q/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull https://www.amazon.com/Upstream-Forester-2003-2004-22641AA140-22641-AA140/dp/B01MTT3JK4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_5?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-5-fkmrnull https://www.amazon.com/22641AA280-Forester-Impreza-Outback-2003-2006/dp/B074W78XHV/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_6?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-6-fkmrnull https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-leader-234-9015-2003-2004-2003-2006-22641-AA280/dp/B07DPMW4WD/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_7?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-7-fkmrnull So, my question is, has anyone tried any of these, even short term, and, if so, did they actually work? The first one i listed is both up and down stream for $88.

$800 for a running, but needs work, Subaru of any year, in my opinion, is a steal, but, im also biased, because, anywhere within 200 miles of where i live, i cant find Subaru's with bad engines for less than $800-$1000. The first things i would look at are, in order, replacing the strut, fix the brakes, then alignment, then tires, then climate control. The reason i would choose that order is, the shaking is probably linked to the tires, but, if it pulls to the right, that is more likely alignment, which will ruin the new tires if not done, and, the mushy braking could cause an accident even with good tires. Cv axles, i would actually hold off on, at least for a few days, until you have actually driven it a bit, as they may only need new boots. The climate control, that could be a fuse or electrical problem though, or, it could just be a bad control unit.