biggman100

Do you mean block to manifold? I know on some of the 2000-2001 engines, the PCV setup is vastly different. If I'm using my manifold, then the manifold to air box would be the same. On my car, it just has a single hose from the block to the intake for the PCV, unless I am misunderstanding what you mean. I haven't really messed with anything newer than an 06, and that was just minor stuff.

I have an 03 Legacy Outback wagon with a 2.5 and AT. Less than 5000 miles ago, I did the heads (new valves and valve seals, had the heads surfaced), because, when I bought the car, it had bad head gaskets, and, while driving it for a few days, with the thermostat punched out so water would just flow non-stop, so I could see what else it might need, it blew the timing belt. So, I fixed all those issues, but, now, it's got a bottom end knock. The issue is, around here, 2000-2004 2.5's in decent shape are nearly impossible to find, and, the only two shops here quoted me $1200+, if I pull the heads back off, and bring them just the short block. So, my question is, are there any other years that just the short block will work from? According to what I found, the head gaskets are the same for some models up to 2011, so, what other differences could there be in just the bottom end? I know I would need my crank pulley, and possibly the knock sensor, but, what else might I need to swap over?

I have to ask, which version of the show? The original or the remake?

I am trying to use the short block from an 01 Impreza in an 01 Legacy L, and i ran into a bit of an issue with the PCV and EGR set ups. The short block i am using has EGR, but the car doesnt, so, i am trying to verify what size the EGR tube threads are so i can get a plug for the head. I have heard M16x1.5, m19x1.5, and m20x1.5, so which one would be the correct one? The other issue is the PCV. One the old engine, it had the fitting in the pic circled in black in the pic. One the new engine, it had the PCV valve threaded into the block, with a single hose, so, does anyone know the thread size of the PCV valve? I need to get an adapter to hook up the hose set up in the second pic, since that is what the car originally had.

I have a friend who has the exact same car i do (ok, so i talked her into it), which is an 04 Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5L, auto, that needs both O2 sensors replaced. Right now, they dont have the money to buy OEM, and really only need it to pass inspection in 2 days, and, while searching, i found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Amrxuts-2003-2004-2003-2006-22641-AA140-22641-AA280/dp/B07D33GK73/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=DENSO%2B2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Germban-234-9015-2003-2004-2003-2006-22641-AA280/dp/B075L5K92Q/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull https://www.amazon.com/Upstream-Forester-2003-2004-22641AA140-22641-AA140/dp/B01MTT3JK4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_5?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-5-fkmrnull https://www.amazon.com/22641AA280-Forester-Impreza-Outback-2003-2006/dp/B074W78XHV/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_6?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-6-fkmrnull https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-leader-234-9015-2003-2004-2003-2006-22641-AA280/dp/B07DPMW4WD/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_7?keywords=DENSO+2349015&qid=1556484783&s=gateway&sr=8-7-fkmrnull So, my question is, has anyone tried any of these, even short term, and, if so, did they actually work? The first one i listed is both up and down stream for $88.

$800 for a running, but needs work, Subaru of any year, in my opinion, is a steal, but, im also biased, because, anywhere within 200 miles of where i live, i cant find Subaru's with bad engines for less than $800-$1000. The first things i would look at are, in order, replacing the strut, fix the brakes, then alignment, then tires, then climate control. The reason i would choose that order is, the shaking is probably linked to the tires, but, if it pulls to the right, that is more likely alignment, which will ruin the new tires if not done, and, the mushy braking could cause an accident even with good tires. Cv axles, i would actually hold off on, at least for a few days, until you have actually driven it a bit, as they may only need new boots. The climate control, that could be a fuse or electrical problem though, or, it could just be a bad control unit.

I already picked it up, i just haven't installed it yet. I planned on doing it today, until it started pouring out.

My first Subaru was actually 3 of the exact same car, that i got as a package deal, which were green 5 speed Legacy L wagons. The guy i got them from bought them for who knows what reason, and didnt do anything with them, then sold them because his wife got sick of all the "project" cars he had that code was always nailing him for. I still have one of those cars, with 357,000 miles on it, and only now is it getting ready to need another clutch, which will only be the second one i have put in it, if i actually do it, since the body is showing its age badly now (i live in the rust belt unfortunately). Granted i haven't been driving it near as much the last 4 years, since i picked up a 2004 Impreza Outback Sport, and have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, but, i do put at least 2,000 miles on it a year, just for the hell of it (the stereo is still louder than the exhaust, even after the front flange rotted, so i just blast it and drive). I have way more problems with exhaust than i do clutch or even brakes on any of my cars. One of the other cars i bought, i sold to a kid that, even after teaching him how to drive it, went through 3 clutches in 7 years, and, the jeep he has now (2006 Compass) needs a transmission because he wont learn to drive it properly, and blew the trans "power shifting". The third one, we turned into an autocross/rallye car, that my wife wrecked the first season she ran it. Not her fault though, some guy "nudged" her into a tree hard, so, i kept all the useable parts out of it for spares, and, never used them, so i sold them just to get them out of my way.

It is actually not advised, by any manufacturer, to just throw the car in neutral and stop it with just the brakes. Most have their recommended correct procedure spelled out in the owners manual. As for the debate about wearing out the clutch vs. the brakes, if driven properly, then neither one will wear out very quickly. Ive seen 8 years or more on the original brakes and clutch, so, my advice would be to research proper driving, shifting, and braking procedures.

The manual transmission isnt dead yet, not by a long shot, which is proven by the fact that more than 40 main stream vehicles, including pick ups and SUV's can still be had with them. As for your, automatics are better in every way statement, while they may be easier for most to drive, manual transmissions still give better fuel mileage, improved vehicle control (if you actually know the proper way to use it), and are actually cheaper and easier to maintain than an automatic (it is far quicker, and much easier, as well as cheaper, to just drain and refill gear oil, than it is to do a filter/fluid change on an automatic, especially since almost every newer automatic, you cant do yourself), just to name a few advantages. This article: https://www.carfax.com/blog/2019-manual-transmission-cars lists every vehicle that can still be had with a manual trans that are new for this year.

Forgive me if this post seems a bit brusque, but, i have been searching for over a week for the answer to what i think is a simple question, with no luck. My question is, which of the 4 upstream O2 wires (2 blacks, one white, one blue) are for the heater circuit? The car is an 04 Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5, non-turbo, automatic. The reason for this is, i have a P0032 code, that, as soon as you clear it, then start the car, it comes right back, and, the car is due for inspection in 2 weeks, and wont pass with a CEL, so, before i spend $195 on a new OEM sensor, i want to make absolutely sure it is the sensor. Yes, i know i can get it a bit cheaper from Rockauto, and even cheaper from Amazon, but, i prefer dealer/OEM parts.

I figured out exactly what happened, because it happened again. The factory fuel lines have plastic in them, and they were breaking up and plugging the fuel rails and injectors. It also didn't help the gas is half water, so i put some k100 in it, and i am going to let it sit for a bit, then put some no ethanol premium in it as well.

You and i were both right. I said right from the start it was either fuel or timing, so today i pulled the injectors from a car that ran until the engine went, put those injectors in my car, and it ran perfect, at least, right up until the exhaust came apart right before the muffler, but, i knew that was eventually going to happen anyway, since it was getting a bit rusty on that flange (ok, so even after the exhaust came apart, it still ran fine, it was just louder is all). One of my tests was to unplug the fuel pump, disconnect the feed and return lines from the fuel rail, connected the feed line to a pump i have, and ran a hose from that into a gas can, then, ran a hose from the return line back to the gas can, and it still wouldn't start, so i said then it was injectors or possibly FPR, and that's when his argument started about never having seen all the injectors get plugged at the same time. I kind of made him mad today, because i said, from now, im listening to my instincts, and not what he says.

The biggest problem here is that every time i try to do something, like test the injectors, or pull the timing cover, i would get responses like, it was being driven when it died, so i refuse to believe its timing, or injectors, or whatever else he doesn't want to take the time to do. It isn't just this car, it is literally every car we work on. When it first died, the first thing i said was, it is fuel related, but, he thought it had to be something simple, such as a sensor that went, and as usual wouldn't listen to anyone about it. Even though its my car, since i'm doing it at his place, if i don't do it his way, he can be a real jerk about it, and since i cant work on anything at my house, and didn't want another tow bill, i get to deal with him over it.

I know the timing is dead on. I took the covers off and checked it several times, and, the covers are still off so i can watch it and other things while cranking it.

I have suspected injectors or fuel pump right from the start, but kept getting told by the shop owner, who has over 35 years experience (although almost no Subaru experience, which is why he always calls me for Subaru's he needs fixed), that he has never seen all 4 injectors get plugged, so, tbh i stupidly listened to him and suspected the pump. I myself have 10 years experience, all in a Subaru shop, but that was more than 10 years ago, before drive by wire and in tank filters (i worked for a used Subaru dealer, and the newest cars we typically worked on were 02 and older), which this car has both of. I finally stopped listening to him and checked resistance on the injectors, and all 4 show above 64 OHMS, and i was under the impression they were supposed to be in the 12-17 OHM range, so, i pulled all 4 injectors, and just to see what happens im gonna throw a set i have from a car that blew up (drove it for 8 months with bad head gaskets), and see if this one will run or not. The only thing i need to verify first is if the injectors from 01 and 04 are the same, which i will do in a couple minutes. Well, scratch that, the injectors in this car are 05-07 outback, so, ill have to see if i can find some. I am almost positive it is the injectors though, since i had someone turn the key on, and step on the gas just enough to open the throttle, sprayed starter fluid in it, and each time i did, it started right up. The second time i did it, i sprayed a little too much though, and got flame out of the throttle body for a second, so, along with my other tests, i am pretty certain its plugged injectors.

This pic shows the top of the pump.

Under the hood, where the filter should be, there are two fuel dampeners, and I don't see a filter on the pump. The build date is 10/03, so it's definitely an 04. This pic shows the dampers where the filter should be.

Disconnected the map, and still no start. I also didn't see a voltage drop, but, I'm waiting on one of the other guys to confirm I did it right. The only times any pending or active codes show is when I disconnect something.

This one doesn't have a regular fuel filter, just the sock in the tank, and, where the filter should be there is a damper in the feed and return lines. After i put in the fuel pump from the running car, it did start on Saturday and ran for about ten minutes, it just didn't have much power. Then, yesterday it started, once, and ran long enough for to move it maybe 50 feet to another part of the parking lot, but, then it died as i was pulling up to put it in the parking space, and since then refuses to start, so im kind of doubting its plugged injectors. I have even pulled the FPR to make sure that wasn't plugged, and also applied vacuum to it and ran air through the lines to make sure it was working correctly. I'm half wondering if it isn't a plugged exhaust, but, i wont be able to do anymore on it until tomorrow. Ill try unplugging the map, and see what that does, and then try the other suggestions. Sorry if it seems like i'm haphazardly adding things i did, its been a very long 6 days, and i am beyond exhausted, so i am adding things we did as i remember them.

We tried starter fluid, before i changed the pump, which is what made me think the pump was bad, because, with the starter fluid, it started, and seemed to run fine for at least a few seconds.

I have an 04 outback 2.5 that died while being driven. Spark is good and clean, compression is a steady 140 on each cylinder when cold, timing belt is in good shape and the timing is dead on on the marks, and fuel pressure shows a steady 42LBS with key on engine off, and jumps to 50 when cranking. Injectors seem to be getting power, as well as a pulse signal. I used a Snap On Ethos, and all the sensors appear to be operating correctly. I even had the shop owner where i took the car scan it again, and go through a bunch of tests, just to make sure neither of us missed anything. It died last Thursday, and Friday i spent 9 hours going over every thing i could think of twice, suspected a faulty fuel pump, so i swapped it with one from a running car, and still no start. I even put the fuel pump from my car into the running car, and it ran fine, but, when i put it back in my car, i could hear the pump, but, even after getting 40 plus pounds of pressure with the key on, it started once, ran like crap, and then died after about maybe ten minutes, and hasn't started since. So far, the shop owner where the car is at, two of his mechanics, and myself, have gone over this car multiple times, and no luck. It has been poked and prodded, and every system tested at least 3 times since Friday, so, any idea what i could possibly be missing? The only other issue i noticed is the exhaust is broke just in front of the muffler, but i don't see how that is in any way relevant.

If you look at the wiring diagrams i have, IF i am reading them right, the center wire for both coils is supposed to be the 12V key on wire, but that would mean connecting the yellow wire on the 2.2 connector to the red wire on the 2.5 connector, which is why im still lost on this one. The wiring diagrams i have also say both outside wires are the ones that go to the ignitor, but, those colors on the plugs dont match, except for the blue ones.

I have already swapped the wiring and all the vacuum lines from the 2.5, and put the intake back on. I figured, since i have the 3 wire plug from the 2.2, and the 3 wire plug from the 2.5, all i need to know is, do they connect say, blue to blue, red to red, yellow to yellow, or blue to red, red to yellow, yellow to blue, for example. The first pic is the plug that i cut off an old coil, that matches the wiring harness i put in the car. The second pic is the plug that matches the coil that is now in the car. All i want to do is connect the two plugs together the right way to make the coil work with the wiring harness i am using.