biggman100

One thing that really puzzles me though, there are no lines, other than the one going to the solenoid and map sensor on the strut tower, so, how does the solenoid under the intake connect directly to the rear canister, as the pic i posted seems to show?

97 is when the canister was moved to the rear. I have 2 96 cars, one sedan, one wagon, both 2.2, and the canister is under the hood.

The only solutions i can see, none seem feasible. Either take the intake off the 2.2 and retrofit the vacuum lines from the 2.5, but, the last time i tried that, on another legacy,the car would barely run, find an intake from a 95 or 96 2.2, with the canister connections, which will be too expensive, or, figure out how to connect the canister properly to the current intake, which, i have no clue how to do. This is the first time i have ever had this issue when swapping a 2.2 into a 95-99 legacy, and, i have done at least 40 of those swaps. The car is an auto trans, and, so was the car the engine was pulled from. According to the attached pic though, one side of the valve is supposed to go directly to the tank, so, could i just run that line to the canister under the hood?

This may have been asked/answered before, but, i couldnt find it anywhere on here. What are the major differences between a 1997 2.2 intake, and a 1996 2.5 intake? Can the 2.5 intake be used on the 2.2, or, arent they interchangeable? I put a 2.2 in a 1995 legacy sedan, and, it runs like crap, and shows a MAF (p0100), and evap (p0441) code. The reason i ask about swapping the 2.5 intake to the 2.2 is because, the car has the charcoal canister in front of the engine, behind the radiator, but, the new engine (2.2) doesnt have any way to connect to the canister, but, the old engine (2.5), does. The car wont maintain an idle, and constantly runs from around 550 to 2000 rpms, even after it is warm, so, im wondering if it is due to not having the canister connected, or, if the MAF alone would cause it.

I know about the 4 vs 8 bolt bell housing, because I do a lot of 2.2 swaps, I just have only ever done 2 Subaru transmission swaps, both automatic, on older legacy wagons. I just wasn't sure if there were any differences in the 99 and up 5 speeds, because the local yards all say 99 only for his forester. As for the wiring, I'll be pulling the transmission myself, so I won't have to worry about cut wires. Thank you for the info, it will be a huge help when I get ready to do this. One last question though, how do I know what ratio the front diff is, or are they all the same for the 99 to 02 forester?

OK, first, the car isn't mine, it belongs to a friend who lives about 5 hours away, so, I only have limited info on it. Here is what I do know. It is a 1999 forester with a 5 speed that is bad. What I am looking for is info on which transmissions will work as a replacement, since the local yards say 1998 and 1999 only, and, of course, they don't have any. What I would like to know is, can I use earlier or later 5 speeds, even if I have to change some of the external electronics? I will be going down to his place in about 2 weeks to do the swap, if I can find a transmission that will work. Thank you in advance for any advice.

Ok, i figured it out, as well as learned a very valuable lesson. Lesson 1, dont let anyone help who doesnt know cars. One of the main harness connectors wasnt all the way connected, and, he broke the cam sensor connector, so it wouldnt stay connected. The harness connector that wasnt all the way connected, is why the IAC was acting up. The other thing i learned, if you are swapping the 2.5 bottom end with a 2.2 bottom end in a 2000 to 2004, swap the cam and crank sensor, crank and drivers side cam pulleys, all from the 2.5, over to the 2.2, as well as the temp sensor, and complete intake, especially if the 2.2 bottom end that you get is used. It will save a lot of headaches in the long run, if you swap those parts ahead of time.

Ok, latest update. Cleaned the IAC, still wont start. Checked to make sure they were the only codes showing, cleared them, shut the key off, turned the key back on, and without even trying to start it, the codes came back.

On this one, you dont have to take that hose off to swap the intake. I just cleaned the IAC, and it still wont start.

Latest developments with this issue, as well as some more info. I used the 2.2 bottom end in this swap, changed the crank and cam pulleys from the 2.5, and the intake and wiring from the 2.5. I went to pick the car up this morning, drove it home, ran fine, no issues, pulled in my driveway, shut it off, restarted it, was running, and then it died. Changed the crank and cam sensor, new oem crank sensor, known good cam sensor from old engine. Will not start, acts like it is getting no fuel, and isnt showing a spark. Went to see if it had any pending codes, and it shows P1510, P1512, P1514, and P1516, all IAC codes, and no other codes. What is odd is, the way the car dies. Except for the one time in my driveway when it died at idle, the other times it died, i was between 25 and 30, the second time was right around 55, the third time, i was doing 40 going up a hill, and the last time, i was doing 15 just starting up a hill. Wouldnt the IAC only cause it to die at idle, and not under load? What it will do is, lose power, slowly coast to a stop with the engine surging between 250 and 600 RPM's, and, also, chug kind of like a diesel does, and then would just quit, and not want to restart, unless i let it sit at least an hour or more.

Ok, some clarification. I only unhooked the battery the first time it died, and then the second time. Since then, i havent unhooked it. I have started it at least 15 times, drove it about 5 miles, it dies, then let it sit, drove it about a mile, it died again, which means, in total, it has died on me 7 times since i started driving it, of those, i only unhooked the battery the first 2 times it died. As for the igniter, i am leaning away from that, only because before i pulled the engine i didnt have any issues with it. The cam and crank sesnor though, are the ones that came with the 2.2 when i got it. I got a used 2.2 from a car that i knew ran well, but then got wrecked, and i never asked the guy who owned the car if he had any issues with it. For all i know, the cam or crank sensor could have been bad, and it died on him, and caused it to get hit, so, i will swap them in the morning and see what happens. Is there an easy way to get the crank sensor out without fighting with it though? Everytime i try to take one out, they break.

I would doubt it is the Ignition control module, only because, i pulled the original 2.5 3 days ago, and it was running fine with the old engine, but knocking bad, which is the reason for the swap, swapped the cam and crank gear, put in a new timing belt, components, and water pump, but i didnt swap the crank or cam sensor, but, if it was one of those, wouldnt that cause a code to at least be pending? The last time it died, i just left it on the side of the road, and havent went back and got it yet. I didnt even unhook the battery this last time. But, would a bad cam or crank sensor cause it to lose spark and fuel?

One thing i forgot to add. The MIL light isnt on, and there are no pending or stored codes.

Here is the situation. I have a 2000 forester, automatic, that i just did a 2.2 swap in, and after the swap, which was finished yesterday, it started and ran every time i hit the key. Got it done, cycled the antifreeze, got ready to take it for a drive, got about 4 miles, stopped at the gas station, got gas, restarted it, got about a mile, it died with no warning. Cycle the key, no fuel pump sound, turn it over, no spark. Disconnected the battery, reconected the battery, it starts, goes about a mile, dies again. Tried disconnecting the battery several times, no results. left it sitting on the side of the road approximately an hour, go back, starts right up, goes about 5 miles, quits, wont restart. I tried cycling the key 3 times, just to see if the security system was acting up, no luck. I dont have a remote for it, but i did try to program the remote from my 99 legacy, with no luck. It wont even go into programming mode. I tried to find the button under the dash to disable the security system, and cant find one, and then was told that year didnt have that button. Each time it dies, it acts like the security system is disabling the fuel and spark, but, the security light on the dash never comes on, not even to blink, and disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, the lights dont flash, and the horn doesnt sound, so i am at a loss as to what could be causing this.

I used an adapter, that i got through crutchfield when i bought the head unit for the other car.

I tried that, and all i could find was the control box for the keyless entry system, and it didnt have an antenna on it that i could find anywhere.

The head unit isnt even a newer one. Its about 4 or 5 years old. I dont know if it would make any difference, but the head unit is actually a JVC, not an Alpine, but when we first got the car, it had an Alpine that was supposedly a few months old, and it stopped working not long after we got the car, so i just stuck a cheap JVC i had from another subaru in it. I enclosed a pic of it, so you can see what it looks like. As you can see from the pic, no usb, no dvd, no navigation, just a basic am/fm cd player.

The problem is i dont have the remote for the keyless entry system. I did try disabling it by cycling the key 3 times, but since it is only a keyless entry system, and not a security system, it didnt work. And as usual, the local Subaru stealership was no help. They want me to bring it in and pay up to 2 hours diagnostic time, just to tell me what the problem is.

Ok guys and gals, here is an odd one for you. I have a 1999 Legacy L wagon, EJ22, automatic, that i put an alpine aftermarket head unit in. The other day i replaced the battery, and the door locks wouldn't work, except once in awhile, but tonight i was driving it, and everytime i changed the radio stations, the door locks would cycle, as in it would lock and unlock on me while i was driving. I thought maybe it was a coincidence, so i parked it with it running, and just kept changing radio stations, and it did it everytime. Any ideas on what to look for? I was changing the stations by pushing the buttons on the head unit itself, not by using the remote for it.

The center nut for the axle shaft had somehow worked itself loose, and thats what ruined the bearing, but that is fixed and the pedal is still soft.

We may have found the problem, and i was wrong in one of my earlier posts. I had my brother check it at his shop, and he found that the drivers side wheel bearing is extremely loose, so he is gonna replace it in the morning, and see what happens. When i did all the brake work, i thought i checked it, but i may have overlooked it somehow.

I found the original Subaru master cylinder recall, and the EJ22 legacies were excluded from the recall, which is what this car is.

Where is that? I want to go play too.

That is one of the things im leaning towards, mainly because even though i hear all the time they rarely fail, the car sat for quite awhile, and who knows what the P.O. did when they had the car, or even if the brakes were one of the issues he parked it for, since after i bought it, i found out he isnt exactly the honest type at all, i just dont want to spend the time and the money to do it, and have that not be it. The thing that sucks is, my outback's front brakes are different than the legacy's, so i cant just swap the mounts and rotors from one to the other and see if that changes anything.

We have been driving it this way since about mid february. I was planning on leaving it at monro and just let them diagnose while we are out of town for the weekend, and take my other car, but now it seems that car is having trans issues, so we might have to take this one when we go, so i was just hoping to have an idea before saturday morning.