biggman100

The impreza uses a completely different bracket for the a/c/alternator than the legacy, but either bracket will bolt to that engine. When i did my EJ25 to EJ22 swap, i took the EJ22 out of an impreza, and had to use the a/c/alternator bracket off the EJ25, but it bolted up with no issues on the EJ22 engine.

Thre is a valve in which vacuume line, the one to the booster? Mine is just a solid rubber hose from the intake to the booster, on both of my 99 legacy's.

This isnt a one time issue, when you first start driving it, it happens every time you hit the brakes. It doesnt matter if it is every 50 feet, or every 200 miles, each time you hit the brakes, it always acts the same. I have checked wheel bearing, and all the front end components because it had a vibration we finally traced to a bad wheel, so i know nothing is wrong there. The only things i can think of it could possibly be, are the front rotors somehow causing it, or either a bad booster, master cylinder, or the front caliper mounts somehow screwed up from being rusted from sitting. I have just spent so much time on these brakes, and replaced so many parts, im starting to think it is just jinxed, so i figured before i messed with it again, i would see what the people on here had for ideas.

We bought the car in january of this year, after it sat in a guys yard unmoving for 11 months, and i figured that the brake issue would be because everything was rusted or frozen, which is why i replaced and repaired the stuff i did, but the brake issue is still the same no matter what i do to it brake wise. The parts i replaced are as follows: Front pads, new semi mettallic, front calipers, rear calipers, pads and rotors, all about 5 months old, that i took from my other legacy that got wrecked in a walmart parking lot by an idiot, just after i finally had the car the way i wanted it.

Dont mind me, im extremely touchy about NASIOC right now, because i made a comment about a post on there yesterday, and the next 9 responses were just people being rude, culminating in someone telling to me to get off the site and never come back.

I posted once on there last year about an electrical issue i was having with a 96 outback, and of the 7 pages of responses, only 2 responses actually had to do with the issue, the rest were mainly about how i shouldnt own a subaru until i know more about cars.

I know, but it just gets tedious and time consuming to have to wade through 20 rude responses on there, just to find the 1 response that might actually have some valid advice.

Yes the car has ABS, but i have the FSM, and also checked what it said in their against what several people on different subaru sites have said, and i made sure i bled it each time the exact way the FSM stated. I have also checked the master cylinder, and have done all but the vacuum tests on the booster, and so far it all checks out, and im done putting parts on it that the FSM says could be bad, just to find out it doesnt fix the problem.

I will move it over to the WTB section. As for NASIOC, i dont usually post there because, frankly, alot of the people on that site are rude, so i mainly stick to looking for things on here, and posting here.

I did grease all of the caliper slide pins, and even the pad contact points front and rear, so i know it isn't a sticking caliper or pad. One thing i did notice when i did the front pads though, is that they were tight in the caliper mount on the one side, so i ground off some of the rust and crap on the mount so the pads would slide freely.

This may have been asked on here before, and probably several times, but after a week of searching on here and nasioc, i cant find anything on the problem im having. I have a 99 Legacy L wagon, with an EJ22, and automatic trans, that i have been chasing a brake issue on for quite awhile now. I have replaced the front calipers and pads, rear rotors, pads, and calipers, and bled the brakes in the proper order at least 5 times, so i don't think air is an issue, but when im driving it, the pedal is soft when you first press it, and only stiffens up and works properly if you press the pedal, let up some, and press it again, then everything seems to work right. If the car is off, such as when it is sitting in my driveway, and i press the pedal, it drops maybe an inch and goes no further from the first press, and if i press it a couple times, it is so stiff it barely moves before it locks up, and doesn't drop no matter how long i hold the pedal for, but then when i start it, it goes right back to being soft again. So my question is, is there a definitive way to see if it is the booster, or master cylinder, or should i look for other issues?

I must be odd, because although there are some nice cars listed in this thread, and my wife really likes the lowered look with the aftermarket wheels, i prefer all of my subies to be stock height with stock suspension and wheels. It might also be because i don't really see the point to doing that much work to make an already very capable vehicle lower or higher than factory.

I am looking for any, even used but working, keyless entry remotes, that someone might have laying around that they may not have a use for anymore. The ones i am looking for are either the older style, like these, for the 99-04 cars, Or the newer style. I have attached pics of what i am looking for. I have tried Ebay, which i don't really like anyway, but all i seem to find are expensive ones, and the dealer wants over $80 each, and i am looking to get at least 3 of them, so if you have any laying around let me know, as well as how much you are asking for them, with shipping to zip code 14801.

I found the problem by accident. I had some alternators that i was using the car to do some testing on, and i somehow pulled the hose to the IAC off where it connects to the steel line that runs under the intake, and when i went to swap out the last alternator i was testing, i noticed the hose moved, so i checked and it was disconnected and just flopping around. Now all i seem to have left is a front end vibration, and a brake issue, and it will finally be all done.

Yes, it is an auto trans, that i just finished replacing. The engine was not removed, and the only things removed from the engine were the airbox, and exhaust. I have checked several times the last two days, and everything is hooked back up properly. The codes i get are P1507 (x2), and p0507, the p1507 is for erratic idle, and the p0507 is for the IACV, which im gonna take off and try to clean later.

I didnt touch either of the hoses to the IAC though.

Merry Christmas to you as well, and to everyone else on USMB. I don't know what i would do without this site and NASIOC, and the people on both sites.

So am i, this one was a royal pain for some reason. Now i just need to figure out the brakes and a couple minor issues, and her car is all done, then i can go back to finishing the minor annoying things on mine.

I recently replaced the transmission in my wife's 1999 Legacy L wagon, and after i got it running again, it hesitates and stumbles at lower rpm's, and wont idle at anything less than a 1000 rpm's. It is an EJ22, automatic. The codes that are showing are for an IAC, so i have rechecked all the hoses, lines and connector's, just to make sure i didn't over look something, and i didn't find anything wrong there, but i did notice it has a minor exhaust leak at the passenger side manifold, so my question is, will that exhaust leak cause an issue with the IAC? When we first bought the car, it had a major exhaust leak at the manifolds, and an IAC code, so i replaced the IAC, before i did the exhaust, and the IAC problem went away, so im not totally convinced that one has anything to do with the other, but i figured before i mess with the IAC again, i would ask on here.

The transmission is all done, and works perfectly, so that is one more thing off my list.

This problem has been solved. I pulled one from a 2000 outback, and it works perfectly, now i want to see if i can retrofit the shifter unit from that same car, but that is a project for another time.

In NY, they don't care about rust. No matter how rusty a vehicle is, as long as everything else on it is, at least according to NY, safe and legal, it will pass inspection here. I have seen trucks with swiss cheese frames pass here, as long as the rust isn't near a suspension mount area, and have even been told that as long as the strut tower's and frame mounts are solid, the rest of the car could be rusting away, and it will still pass inspection. I have a 99 outback wagon that has holes in the rear quarters, and in the door sill area on the rear drivers side, that i bought as a stop gap when my other legacy was wrecked, and when i took it for inspection, the shop told me that that didn't make a difference for inspection.

If the part number they list for my car is correct, i found it on several sites new for less than 40, and a couple of those sites the shipping is only around 5 bucks, so im gonna call the dealer tomorrow, and verify the part number from them.

Because on their site, they only list an ej25 for the 99 cars, and mine is an ej22 car, but the shift cable should be the same, so going by their site, the shift cable only matches from 99 to 02, and only the legacy.

Opposed forces only showed me up to 98 for some reason. I never seem to be able to find 99's listed on any of their parts lists, but i could be doing something wrong when i search on their site.