psylosyfer

I froze my EA82, Now have puffs of steam out of oil filler, coolant and oil mix, no problems at exhaust. head gasket, head, block? Has anyone a decent EA82 for sale? Just in case block is history?

Sorry Guy's!! I appreciate the info but I screwed up! It turns out it's an "96" NOT a "94" Sorry!! I don't see this really making a difference, But she does. Thanks Again!! Ray F. Potter

Hi All, I know that it has been a LONG time since I have posted. But I had nothing new to offer and my old Loyale was always running great! I am thinking of buying a 94 outback. However (did not want to use "but") it is not a steal, or is it? There is a foot long crack along the windshield bottom, the head & fog lights do not work, and it is a ground issue, the front wheel, drive fuse blows, I suspect that may be due to mismatched tires, it is close to 200,000 miles, automatic trans, their are small dents and scratches on all surfaces, a large paint loser on the front driver side, a structural "?" crack across the bottom crossing the tranny hump and exhaust indent, Is is wide enough to affect continuity from the rear to front, is a weld safe? Broken/missing R-hand mirror, missing interior mirror, tranny shifts late, It has not had proper maintenence. Runs good but "check engine light" always on. This is a big deal in California, Smog laws won't allow it to be registered untill that light is out! There are a few other problems less severe, oh yeah NO abs. The lady is asking $2800 but I think more like $1000 - $1500 is fair. As she is a friend, I want to be fair. So, any opinions on the value of this outback? If I pay for labor, how much are we looking at? And Ballpark parts? Would be nice. Like I said I am trying to be fair with a friend, but cannot afford to overpay at this time. I'd appreciate any feedback my Suby loving brothers & Sisters! Thanks in advance!

I rotated my tires today and noticed a fist sized hole in my muffler.

Mine makes no difference with the wire on or off.

Wish I had Known him better, but the way time passes, we'll see him again before long. Still it always hurts to loose a good friend!

I am really wanting a STi, you that have them, are they worth it? are they as satisfying as the old subaru's? how about reliability? I don't want to make a big money mistake, But it's a Subaru! I should have no regrets, right?

I know from learning the hard way that after you replace the rear bearing & seals, If you do not really tighten ( I think 150ftLbs spec) the wheel nut with the washer curved inward, You will lose your bearing and hub splines in a few hundred miles, I was lucky to get a new hub at junkyard for $15. After getting Real tight,(no torque wrench, I just heaved on the breaker bar) no problems, When the brake shoes won't clear the ridge in drum, you can pull a little rubber plug from the backing plate then insert a small flat blade and the adjuster will loosen, then hub will work past the ridge, with alot of wobbling & pulling! No hammer though, brake drum is cast, I broke one with an awful weak tap!

I hear that! My engine light has been on since I bought the Loyale 6-7 years ago, car runs great. When I did check the code, it told me to replace a sensor/solenoid, A $20 part that Subaru Got me for $107, light stayed out for 20 mins. now code is always different, so I ignore it, covered with black tape. No more $100 bills for nothing. Car still runs great!

Tried fuel filter(s)? Also look under hood at night for arcs. Good luck!

Hey Guy's I think I would look at a pix of a new pump on NAPA or some such website before plugging that hole! Be sure! If you decide to plug it, I had a boss who built up a main bearing journal with JB weld, and I still find it hard to believe but it held for years! gotta recommend it for inside engines. Whenever I've had oil loss and foam on dip stick, it's been heads or head gasket(s). Had a small amount of foam under oil cap last year, and had to top coolant every 1-2 months. This time I tried lazy, I bypassed my heater hoses, then ran around for a couple hours after pouring in block sealant, Oh yeah, I also had a rusty spark plug! All these problems have been gone for at least a year! sometimes luck goes your way! Sure beat pulling heads off.

Very easy, look up under the dash on the pass side, you'll see a circular metal item with (I think) 3 corners for 3 screws, wire unplugs, I got new one at O'Reilly's for around $30, works way better than the original. A little of topic but I did the same job on another make car that week, was a pure hellish nightmare! never again on any but my Sub! I would pay $500 to avoid that job for life! Sub, I'd do it for a beer! free if you were out of beer!

Exactly! cracked solder joints from temp variations, look close at back of ckt brd. Practice on junk or get help if you have not repaired boards before!!!!

I had similar problem hard to start, very bad when cold, after going round and round, turned out to be plug wires, I had a spark at the plugs but I guess it was to weak. New wires, fired right up.