Mugs

Thanks for the detailed information, but I am trying to find our how to locate one, and get it sent to the states. I remember there was an outfit that sold them a few years back, also a company that will do the conversion kit for the USDM ones here.

Hello all. Long time no post (like 4 years I think) not really going to give an update but may in a later post. I am on the hunt for the Aussie hi/lo trans to stick in my 05 Turbo Baja. I remember that we did a group buy a few years back, I have searched for them on the web and within here, but have not come up with anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mugs.

FT4Me thats exactly what I did, and it is now fixed. Took me awhile to figure it out. I guess I should have checked back here first, I could have gotten it done 2 hours earlier. But I was in the zone. It was the mechanical linkage on the shift cable that needed to be adjusted. Did that and problem is solved. What a relief. Thanks for all the help.

So it starts in position "R" I had to transfer the selector module from the old one on to the new one. Because the one the came on the new trans had the connector on the module itself, VS the old style is hard wired on to the module and the wire connector goes up to the top by the bell hosing/dog bone area, and then connects. I noticed there were some adjustment screw to where I could "clock" it one way or another, and still noithing. it still has to be in "R" to start. Which tells me the cable/shift positions are off. Any Ideas. Thanks for your help thus far.

By stating that it won't shift out of park implies that its an automatic. I can crank the starter over with a remotes witch hooked directly to the starter. This is within the ignition, it drops out on crank position. It ran before we disconnected the battery to replace transmission. I am inclined to believe it has to do wight the alarm system. Yes the flex plates bolts are in.

A post of desperation !!!!! First off let me start by saying I am an automotive instructor, but before that I worked on Subaru's for 10 years. And still do. But I suck at electrical so I have always been and will remain to be a line tech. Its what I like. Now the skinny. A student of mine just got done replacing the transmission on a 96 lego sedan (for another student that is graduating and getting ready to go off to college.) When we went to start it, it was a no start and it won't come out of shift lock, unless you do the screw driver trick. Upon further digging around we found an aftermarket security system, (and no the original owner knew nothing of this) so I hooked up a remote stater switch just to see if the engine cranks..it does. But no va-vroom. I found the valle' switch and tried every reset option I know of, but NOTHING!!!!! So after careful deliberation and wire tracing we decide it would be best to remove said security system that way the new owner (student going to college) won't ever have to worry about this again. I must say the installer did a very thorough job so its not all hacked up. But after doing all of this the vehicle still does not start. What is even more weird is there is other wires that have been tapped into other connectors with those crimp/speed splicers. But it all looks like factory wiring crap. I think it may be part of the factory fog lights that are installed in the bumper. I just need this car to start and run, so we can run it through its paces and finish other stuff up. By FRIDAY WHEN SCHOOL ENDS FOR THE SUMMER. So ya no stress or anything. So here is where you all come in. Is there any wiring guru that is out there that would be willing to come and look at this thing. I have mitchell at your disposal if you need to print off diagrams. Other wise I have to take it to a shop, and pay for this out of my own pocket. Did I say I was a teacher, so ya that means I have no money. The school is in Burien Wa. I will be checking my messages religiously and when contacted will then give you information on how to get to the school. Any help and input would be most appreciated. :-) Thank you, me and my student will be most grateful.

Thanks, I was thinking in this direction, but I was just wanting to get a second opinion, or 3 :-)

OK so its been a few years since I have built a frankin motor. And in reality I am not building one this time, I am building more like a 2.5 hybrid. But my question is this: I forget what to order in the way of parts, because I know you have to mix and match a bit. Do I order belt kit for a 2000 2.2 since that is the heads I am using. And head gaskets for the 2003 2.5 block, since that is the block I am using. Or do I order everything for a 2000 2.5 engine since that is pretty much an 2.2 just bigger pistons. Or do I order everything for a 2000 2.2 Your thoughts... And thanks. P.S. the build is this, which may help answer some of the questions. 2003 EJ25 block 2000 EJ22 Heads (they have the same cfm flow and design as EJ25 heads, just single port) 2003 EJ25 cams with stage II grind.

I like the new land cruiser drab green that is on the new FJ's. I think its pretty sick. I might do my OBS in a color like it. Like this color here.

Oh ya, forgot to add how I came up with the name Jamie. So I named her that fairly shortly after getting her. Its a combined name of James May from BBC Top Gear (my favorite show.) He is known as captain slow, which is exactly what this car is, or at least feels like. So I combined the two names together and came up with Jamie.

OK so for a little update. I used my Christmas break to get some stuff done on Jamie. First I pulled out the heater control assembly and put new bulbs in. I found that disconnecting the cables from the heater and box, blend door, and fresh/re-circ vent was easier then trying to take them off at the control unit. …Yeah I have center console lights and can tell what my settings are. I did not have the little green condoms to go over the lights, so I used a black magic marker and painted the tips a bit. Kind of leaves a reddish hue, but thats ok. I haven't had lights since I bought the car this summer While I was at it, I replace the ashtray light and shift indicator light as well. So now I have all working lights…Are there lights for the hazard and de-frost, they illuminate when pushed, but not when the lights are on? I haven't really looked into it. The switches don't want to seem to come out, and I didn't want to force the issue, so I haven't played with them too much. Next thing I did was buy a used OBX-R cat back exhaust (off of a 2000 2.5 RS) from a guy on a local Subaru FB site. He included the cats from his old set up as well. Planning on using them as a template to make a cat delete set up when I am done with my 2.5 build. It didn't take too long to install and man what a difference it makes (as far as sounding decent.) First off I don't have a frikin pea shooter stinking out the back. But it also has a very nice sound to it. I won't run my UEL's until I am done with the 2.5. I also noticed with the new exhaust, that the stock "turbo" whistle that comes from the air box on this series of EJ22's is now gone. Perhaps because there is more flow???? NOW FOR MY RANT I like how it sounds with in town driving, and short distances on the highway. But anything along the highway or on a road trip which entails anything above 2500 RPM's it just DRONES and DRONES and DRONES. A four hour road trip this weekend just about killed me. Was at 3200 rpms 4 hours both ways. It was either crank the stereo to where it hurts or deal with this constant drone in my ears. I might put the original mid pipe back in, and just run the muffler section and see how that affects it. The resonator the OBX-R came with is almost as long as the OEM mid section, not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. All I know is I gotta do something, because I am not living with that with all the long distance driving I do Thats a huge frikin resonator. Heres a quick video of the stock exhaust VS the OBX-R cat back http://youtu.be/cdkp-z7dkGE

Well thats smart. How are you going to see around you to be able to pick lines, and know your surroundings in a wheeling situation, or any other situation.

B.O.S.S all the way. His stuff is such great build quality, rugged, and take the abuse you throw at it. Just my 0.2

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF in a squirt bottle. Spray on let sit, use hand held impact driver. Works like a charm.

With your budget in mind, I would say the 04/05 might be attainable, depending. Certainly the bug eyes, which IMO are ugly as hell, but to each his own. At least with the 02 and up models you will be getting into the 2.5, nicer interiors, more sound deadening, better handling, and nicer road trip cruising features, and a "bigger" car in general. The early gen stuff 93-2001 is very sought after by "us" rally cross and tuner guys (like me) because it the closest we can get to original 22b and first gen STI copy cat cars. OBS are a class of there own and have a very big "wagon mafia" following. there a ton of them out there but yes they are becoming harder to find, and people want an arm and a leg for them. Especially in the Pacific North West area. The 2000-2001 OBS have a few more styling cues that a lot of people like (double rear wing, new gen 2.2, only grey/black interior combo available, etc) and yes less were made in those years. Here is a fact site that may help in your decision making.

Ya I have 3 pick and pull style yards nearby. But if its newer then say 96….maybe 99 they pull the motors and trans and sell them outright. In fact they go through and do the head gaskets, t-bets, the whole nine yards, and then sell them for bookoo bucks.

Yep you correct..I noticed that too when I went to "build my own" the other day. I was just going off of a report I heard the other day. Not only that but they start out at like 9k more then the stock. Too bad I can't get the blue one in black interior..Yes I am purchasing a car based upon my exterior/interior options. What the HELL is with subaru and their light A$$ interior color combos. Don't they know that stuff gets dirty just looking at it. Never did understand why they have done that for so many years.

THE HELL with all that, Rob, next time get a-hold of me and bring them to the shop. I'll do them for for you, or let you do them using my equipment. Dang man, that be cray cray.

Because around here if it has a 2.5 in it, or is a decent shape the yard pulls motors and then sells them for like 1800 bucks. Only the old school EJ stuff stays intact in the yards. So unless the valves are the same for 2.2 and 2.5 I have to buy new valves. And if they are the same then I am going to canabolize the 96 2.2 heads for their valves. I wonder what type of performance I would get out this combo. I once had a VW Baja with a 1776 single port in it. It was done that way specifically just for torque. But with VW, duel port and single port is referenced to the intake manifold not the exhaust. I could always just use inferno fab single port header. Plus this means I would have to take apart my perfectly good and running motor, which I am not to keen on doing. In the event that my plans fail and I need to put the EJ22 back in. I think I will just build a 2.5, put some cams in it, get a header/exhaust set up and call it a day. At least this way I essentially have a motor with "0" miles on it, well if I split my case and do all that. But at least the heads, an block have about 60k less on them, then my current engine. We'll see. When I get home here next week, I do some more poking around in my shop. But they way its looking I may end up with about 1000 bucks into this thing, and for that kind of money I might as well try and find a good used 2.5 and save the hassle of trying to build heads, and build a block. But if I did build everything it would all be new, and that part is cool. Plus the satisfaction of doing it all myself. Sheesh all this just cuz I want a 2.5 with a bit more punch in my car, and not the 2.2

If your doing normal street driving and not anything outdoorsy then a legacy will work fine. But they have the same ground clearance as a yota or a honda. If you are outdoorsy and like to head into the trails so to speak, then you need to look into outback, forester, or XV. XV will have a hybrid 40mpg option for 2014..something to think about.

Yes it has a filter. More then likely in the pan style, IIRC they didn't have the screw on kind until 2000. Drain, drop pan, change filter, re-seal. Add trans-X first, then top off with regular DEX-Merc or Chevron MDIII…see of that helps. If not, you may be headed towards the land of duty solenoid 3 failure ala torque bind.

Its a bird, Its a plane, no wait, its Monstaru in his Truck-a-roo

So why can't I run my existing phase II (2000) 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block and use my existing intake as well? I mean hey the car is a 2000 OBS so its is a phase II EJ22 right?? If the phase II heads are the same volume/size as a 2.5 then essentially I am building a 2.5..correct..or am I missing something??

I have duel port and single port 2.2 heads, and I have thought about building a franky. My 2.5 block is out of an 03 Outback….I have 94 2.2 heads, and 96 2.2 heads, as well as 02 2.5 heads (which is the ones I am planning on polishing) But for some reason or another I am leaning towards a full 2.5 build. I don't know why…guess maybe the fact that I drive 50 miles a day to and from work and 300 miles one way to home on the weekends has something to do with it. Don't feel like putting all that money into 92+ octane gas for it. Any way' we'll see. Ya I'll pull the pan off when I get back home next week. So what your saying is I could use my 96 or 2000 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block and essentially be building a 2.5? and then add cams. I know on the last franky I built it was a 2003 2.5 block with 97 2.2 heads, with 1100 delta torque cams, and it screamed. So given that situation I would need to use my 2000 2.5 heads to build a "stock" 2.5? I'll pony up the dough for OEM valves. Unless anyone else has a suggestion? BUT NOW back to my original question….is polishing out the rough castings (or maybe even do a bit of porting) on the head, worth the effort on this application. I know in the carbed world sure…but fuel injected at this level?????

Please post pics as I am in the middle of trying to get this very thing started on my engine build thanks.