Mugs

what the chic..ya she was pretty cute..for a blonde:grin:

Who would of thought that now these are very sought after cars. And I don't think there ugly at all. I would love to have one. and what the heck is a SU-BARRO any way?

You can't be a honda guy and be here on the forum. Unless you are willing to denounce your loyalty to one and pledge it us. I will be haunting you in your sleep until you do WELCOME. You have now reached the dark side and found the missing link in your heart felt car needs.

I did not read all the post. But I will have to agree with the general thought. And that is yes spend you time on EA71/81 engines. I would much rather rebuild my HL EA81 then an EJ and or EA82 plus it is way harder to come by a HL EA81 then just going to the junk yard. A 71 or 61 even harder to come by.

Well There GLoyale I am not going to argue with you. I had the block spit in about 15 min via undoing the rod bolts. I could not even get to retainer ring on the far side with my longest (Mac Python plires) but I can and understand how it is done. And my sole purpose was to get the crank out for a template/ R & D. So no I did not have the "proper tool" (imagine that a profesional mechanic w/o the right tool) then again when your on flat rate you don't get paid/ it cost the customer more the rebild the motor then to just R &R it. Any way some day I would like to try and re-build a moter just for yucks but this was my own personal thing and I was just experimenting and making stuff that I neded the crank out for.

Some will tell you that you have to take out the wirst pins via thes holes in the ends of the block. That is a a major major major pain and I have never been successful at it. The way to split the case is start to sperate it until it gets "floppy" then just start taking off the rod bolts (keeping them in order of course) untill you have the pistons disconecte from one side of the block. Pull the half off and then the rest is easy as pie. Or you can save yourself a whole lot of head ache and go to your local JY and get an engine out of a car (they go for about 125 here) and then buy the re-seal and timing kits from eother e-bay or other reputable sites mentioned on this forum (you be out about (300 buck tops for everything tbelt kit, pulleys, h20 pump, and seals) Then if you want to "see" how subies are put together save the old block and tear it down later. P.S. I was a vw guy for twenty years..now I frikin hate the things and wonder why I ever messed with them. This hate came in part buy me having to work on them professionally and watching them get worked on for about a year or so.

Cool, but I want the Libero buggy in the other video, or just a Libero in general would be cool

Get a-hold of "The Beast I Drive" for the "pre made" lift. His lifts are outstanding and he does supurb work. SJR lifts are another reputable lift outfit and he is here on the board as well. "Scott in Bellingham" is his name. Welcome to the BRAT club, and the forum.

Also could be a clogged radiator, and there alot easier to change then a heater core.

If my memeory serves me correct even 2in blocks have to be offset on the hole to be cambered specific. Or you could just buy a Bill Omlim Monster Lift (beast I drive) They are the burliest and best craftmenship I can think of and you won't have to worry about camber issues. When I went and got my aligment done after all the mods and new tires my camber was spot on.

Make sure your car is running and in park when you check the ATF. Simple I know, but from the sound of things, you need all the help you can get

For the return and evap lines I just used the apropiate sized line for the EJ ends and the used hose clamps on the EA ends (acutally I used hose clamps for all the lines but that is just me) and it worked fine. I have also ditched the charcoal canister and pluged the ends off with some vacuum plugs. But then again I don't have to go through emissions because my car is older. So if you have to go the emmissions you might want to keep the canister on.

Spin one side fo it, if the other axle spin in the SAME!!!! direction then it is an LSD if it spins in the opposite direction thens it is and open diff.

Welcome to the dark side form which you will never return.

Yes pretty much for anything over 2in (5cm) you will want to remove the engine. It makes things alot easier. Keep in mind that when you lift something that much...there is a lot of custom work that needs to follow. Do a search on "lifting" and you will find lots of information on it, and how to do it. Were all here to help.

looks good. Motivates me to hurry up and get mine built.

Ok excuse the snobbery. But we allready have a show for "all other subies" so why would we do a "mini show" or a "mini meet." of subies again? I liked the exclusiveness of just Brats. There is just 360 shows, just camero shows, just mustang shows, etc. So why can't we have a just brat's meet. If you want to change it to a "vintage meet" then ok all are welcome but otherwise I think we should keep it specific. Specific type meets bring on a certain uniqueness to them. Thats what makes them just that, unique. Sure we are all car guys, and that is what brings us together. But having a one specific car that we can talk/look/own is what sets up the bond that binds so to speak. It allows for easier info sharing and a commom comradery of sorts and a gammit of other advantages over and above a general meet of cars. Hope this all makes sense. Cheers.

I might be in. Don't want a tree but a fun time wheelin and shaking out the MAV would be good. Plus I would like to meet you all any ways.

I am tentivally in. Provided it is not too near in the future. I would just put a trip permit on the BRAT. Tight now she is a ruff runner and I need to do a good ol' tune-up at least, to get her running for highway long distance. She is supposed to be a "long" project but I won't tear into her too much knowing this would be coming up within the next 6 months. Beside I haven't even finished with my MAV yet. Just my two cents: I think it should be just a one day thing. Like on a Sunday just a general meet and greet. Maybe some light logging or BLM road stuff for some pics, but just a good ol shop talk in a parking lot and some burgers afterwords would be cool.

there called the half moon dealy ma bobs, that go between the thing a ma jig and the hoozy whatzit Oh wait thats the wrong cupertulater... here try this suby part (I am holding one in my hot little hand right now) PLUG-CYL HEAD #11051AA070 provided that is what your talking about. not sure if they are different from 22 to a 25 but they should be the same.

Help, I am so confused on which wagon to choose. Both are really nice and I like them both alot. They both have EJ22's and are really fun to drive. One is and auto the other a manual. But I only get to choose one. I hate making decisions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ok, Ok there both mine. The daughter drives the one for college and I was doing some routine maintannce on it plus "fixing" battery light (alternator) and I just so happend to park it next to the MAV, and I was like wow...thats a big difference, I think I will take some pics Sorry if I posted this in the wrong spot, But I figured it was more offraod related then anything else

I don't have the specs to the EJ25 but the specs to the EJ22 are as follows, I would assume there about the same. 28-34 nm, 21-25 ft lb... hope this helps

I am not sure about your 84 but my 85 carby wagon... the inlet line was on the bottom by the frame rail... the return and evap lines are up by the brake resivoir. tucked in between it and the brake booster and going into the firewall. the return is the larger one, the evap is the smaller one. I just used the same dia hose from the EJ evap and then put a hose clamp around the EA because it is smaller still. Hope this helps.. Will take pics for you if needed.

Ok so the tires work great. A slight shimmy but nothing like it was. Keep in mind, they are studded tires, I have blown struts all the way around, no stabalizer bar, and a 6in lift. So I am not complaining at all. Before the steering wheel would want to shake right out of my hand. but now I would say 99% improvement. Will see how it goes next spring when I install non studded 31's on it and have new struts up front and coil overs in the back.

All is forgiven...welcome aboard. By the way the beads seem to be working great. I have not had the opportunity to take it on the highway yet but they used to sahke like mad at 35mph and now they are fine. And they are studded tires to top it off. What I ment about knowing who you are talking too is...I am a suby mechanic and I felt as if you were talking to me as a kid on the block. no harm, no foul.