Mugs

Seriously, Really, all the vast knowledge people have here about this subject and not a single reply. You all must be out Christmas shopping for suby parts or something

Ok so I have enough "parts" to build a NA 2.5 SOHC for my 2000 OBS. I am currently working on the heads (all the valves were bent) so I am in the process of cleaning the heads up and getting new valves in (this includes machine work as well) I was thinking about polishing the intake and exhaust ports as well, is this going to make much a of a difference in performance, when combine with Delta torque cams? Or should I just leave well enough alone, get the cams, and build the motor. Also I was thinking about splitting the case I have because it had a slight 5 second "piston" slap on start up when really cold. It was consistent and never did it the rest of the day after start up. It had been only doing this for about a week before the engine was replaced because of the noise. All the cross hatching looks good, and I can't hear anything when I crank it over by hand. I was thinking about splitting the case and putting new bearings, and rings in it just to be on the safe side. Or do I just risk it and see what happens. If I do split the case I might as well do a piston upgrade (just trying to squeeze a few more ponies out of it.) Any particular performance brand/kind you guys recommend? Also I was going to order these valves , any body ever use them. The stealership wants like 17 bucks a valve, I am replacing all 16. Thanks for you help… Yes I will be doing and exhaust upgrade too

If its VW (or european for that matter) stay away from it.

I got a 91 lego ECU I'll give you if that helps at all. It works too, cuz I used it to test what I thought was a bad ECU in a customers car.

So on my 2000 OBS with 187k I think the trans is going out. Upon initial start up when accelerating rapidly (as in trying to get up a hill, passing etc) it will jump up 1000 rpm's, engage, and drop back down 1000 rpm's. In doing so it makes a very horrendous slamming action on the drive line and rear end, and everything else that is involved with the driveline system. It only does this type of action for about ten minutes of initial driving and then its fine. And also if I don't slam in the skinny peddle and accelerate like a grandma, everything is ok. But sometimes I need to, in order to be able to get up, or around something. Also I do think it is affecting my mpg...on my normal 4 hour road trip I take on the weekends I am down to 23mpg @ 80mph instead of 25mpg @ 80mph, but this could be we are on "winter time gas" now. Yet my regular in town mpg has not changed. I have changed the fluid, I did not like the looks of it. Very slivery/brassy looking, and was pretty dark, even though I changed the fluid 3 months ago, as regular maintenance. So if this the case then I am going to us it as an excuse to buy an AU/NZ 4EAT D/R But I thought I would pick your brains first. Anybody know how to get my hands on one of those D/R trans????? Thanks for the help.

Looking good man...I next comes a AU/NZ DR and and EJ25 right, right, right

Ok, true, no bolt..I meant nut, its in the picture towards the bottom in the back by the winch wheel.

Looking good. What about that bolt that is sticking out of the back of the motor? Are you sure you just can run it to a ground mount some where else? Are you going to run amsteel winch line?

Please view and follow the advise of this video when making and or posting any more videos. Looks like Fern and you are having a lot of fun together.

Ya I know, but you how these kind of people are. Too much sentimental value, so they never want to let them go, and yet will never do anything with them either. I have a feeling he will either get frustrated and burnt out when he realizes the undertaking it is going to be to finish, and may sell then. Or he may budge if cash money is flashed in front of his face.

Pull and Save or equivalent in your area.

could also be the Idle Air Control as well. Might pull it off (if its the on top intake style with hose going to port) and clean it out real good.

Good advise. I don't think its the fan though. I think it was because I put in the bad fuel pump relay in, instead of the existing good fan really.

OK, I had been waiting to see if I actually fixed the problem before I made a post of the results. I am confident that I got it figured out, and I thank you all for you help and support So lets start at the beginning. The day before all of this started happening the car just died at a stop light and would not start at all. Finally got it started and drove it home. So at this point I'm thinking possible main relay. I get in it to go to work the next day, and nothing, but crank, crank, crack. So obviously the stress level just escalated by ten fold. I get down under the dash, hoping that I can at least bang on the main relay and get it started to where I can get into work, and order a new one. Tap on it, nothing. Ok well let me swap whatever round relay is next to the fuel pump relay and see if that works. VROOOM, and were off like a bat out of hell, in case it dies again. Get to work, order a new FP and Main relay. Take out the existing fuel pump relay and lay it to the side. Takeout the un-known relay (that was originally the FP relay) and lay it to the side. Then pick up and re-install the original good relay. Then start my drive home, and the fan starts acting up as described in the previous post. So I start poking around doing some of the suggestion made, and after reading FairTax4me describing where the relay is, I think wait a minute. Lets start from the beginning, none of this started until, blah, blah, blah. Go out to the car, turn on the fan (it was working at that time) un-plug mystery relay and boom, flat line, no fan. So I must not have been paying attention when I replaced it with what I thought was the original, and ended up replacing it with the bad FP relay. I still had it, so I re-installed the true original one, and we have been groovy ever since As far as the lights, I diag'ed it to be loose tabs at the bulb connector. I took a small flat head screw driver and bent them smaller, so they would clamp more securely on the bulb, and were all good there as well. Thanks so much guys for helping me through this, and just being able to bounce ideas off of you all. Like I said, I hate, and am not good, with electrical, you want me to tear down an engine and put it back together, and have it start, no problem. You need me to figure out why your car stalls at 3500 rpm's while going up hill, and turning left...BIG PROBLEM So thanks again. Cheers Mugs

What your still driving, By now I would have thought you fabbed something up to able to fly in the air with. Ya right now I am averaging 23 city/highway combo, with a lead foot, so not too bad.

3 of each, or one of each..they appear to be in different sizes. I always thought it would be cool to replace all of my bulbs and have them be different colors. Like red for the CEL warning lights, green for dash, blue for heater control...etc etc.

So a friend of mine pulls into my driveway a and says "hey I found some really cool subies from the 70's not too far from your house." So I 'm thinking maybe some old wagons, or coupes maybe a FF1 if I'm really lucky. I'm like "well lets go see them." So I grab my camera, and jump into his car. 5minutes later I'm looking at a Sambar, 2 360's, and 2 busses Needless to say my reaction was "Holy cow man." Just then the owner comes out. And I ask if its O.K. to take pics, and look at his cars. He says sure, and then goes into the history of them. He's had the white 360 since 68 and and said it was the family car, until he had their 3rd child. Then they got the van. The other 360 was purchased to be a parts car, as well as the van. He Got the Sambar in 1975 and drove it as his going back and forth work car, until about 8 years ago when the master cylinder went out, and has not been able to find parts. I asked if he would be interested in selling any of them. of course he told the a-typical story I have heard a thousand times. He is getting ready to retire from public utilities in 2 years (he's a mechanic there) and he wants to use the Sambar and white 360 as retirement projects. I says understand that. I asked a few more probing questions all the while slowly leaking out my knowledge of this gen of suby. He knew the Sambar is really hard to find, and is hanging on to it with clinched white knuckles. I asked if he had a computer so I could give him my e-mail address, and get him in contact with like minded Subaru collectors, and web sites he could possibly begin to start sourcing stuff for them. He said he has one at work but not home (ya he's real old school.) I shared my information with him, and also a lot of what I knew about the cars, and possible way to fix certain issues, he thanked me for the info, and said he would keep in touch if he had any questions, and that he'll definitely ask questions when the time comes... I haven't hear from him yet (that was 2 months ago) but I have heard this song and dance too many times. I tried for 15 years to get a 69 camero, with a similar story, and eventually it sunk so far into the ground it was pointless, and then it was gone. But none the less I was able to make an initial contact, and I'll just keep popping in from time to time, and maybe some day when he realizes what he under took as a project is beginning to burn him out, and he would rather be fishing, I can show up with cash money in my hands and get that Sambar But in the mean time I figure I would share the pics with you all. Enjoy

Thats next on my agenda..mine is a 2000 OBS, but I will post up how it is done. IIRC they simply plug into the back with bulb connector, you just have to take out the whole unit, which is a PIA if it is the cable style position unit.

Cool, I live in hobart, actually about 5 miles from where we passed each other. We should hook up. Now it's a CL add

Thanks, I had already pulled the 3 relay holder (Main, Fuel and ?) down earlier this summer when I replaced the blinker relay, and just simply tucked them over to the side in a safe pace behind the wire harness coming out of the fuse box. Thinking it would be advisable to leave them where I can gain quick access in case of a malfunction. So If I am reading you correctly, the fan relay is above that. I will look under there tomorrow, and see if I can find another relay. I'll also carry my DMM with me so that if it does fail again I can do the tests you recommended. Thanks again. P.S. I'm beginning to think I may have some electrical gremlins throughout the car. My driver side head light keeps "burning" really dim, and doesn't t get brighter with the high beams either. I replaced the bulb and it lasted like 2 weeks before doing it again. I'm getting pretty frustrated, with this whole thing. A car payment on a new car is looking pretty tempting. I can't afford not to be able to go to work, or have to constantly work on my car to get to work.

Doesn't your tank have the drain plug in it...or is it of a different generation?

I would if I had the time. Still might. It would be a good way to make some money for my project during the summer.

Tried that...yes when it works, it works on all speeds. If it didn't I would replace the rheostat on it, and call it a day, well hopefully. I wish the motor had been a hard failure, I could just apply power to it and see if it works. No work, replace motor, Done

2000 Impreza OBS So here is what is going on. About 3 days ago my fan (for the heating-A/C) quit. I thought it was a fuse, but nope no fuse problems. I have no idea where the relay is located, and its always convenient that suby labeled their stuff SBF 1,2,3, etc, etc, But the next day it worked again so I figured a fluke. But nope it quite today while in stop and go traffic and 85 degrees. Then about 4 hours later it works again. Any thoughts on what might be going on. And where to start doing electrical testing. I hate electrical, so I feel very frustrated right now. Thanks all in advance.

So a while ago, I had a 2000 Hyundai Elantra (I think, could have been one of their other sedans..but it was a 2000) on the hoist and was doing some service work to it. I noticed that the rear lateral links look almost identical to the EJ Suby links. But heres the bonus. There adjustable, and there 22 inches long Talk about long travel. I figured this would be the ticket for some of you guys doing big lifts on the EJ stuff. Or for those that wanted to try and do some custom long travel suspension work. Also 95/96 Toyota Camery has longer links at 20inches I believe. Just thought I would share.