Mugs

I don't use and or buy anything SAE, that way I can tell the service writer "sorry don't have the tools for that." But now days I can't get away with it very well since most all cars are metric. So now I just say "sorry not going to work on that." And now that I am my "own boss" I can really say what and what I won't work on.

Hey this is just an after thought. But your cat may be starting go out/getting clogged. Thus it is loading up under hard accell and then "cooking" back off and clearing out after the "load" has gone away. Just a thought.

Try the HEET treatment (the water remover in the tank) also maybe a seafoam treatment. One in the tank, half a can in the crank case, and another fulll can through the intake. I made my own "delivery machine" with a 20 oz soda bottle some vinal tubing and an in line peck cock valve. Can take a pic and show you if you would like.

Ya I thought abou those for a long time. But them wanted to be able to hold all my sockets which go up to 36mm and most of those peg style organizers only go to 27mm. Plus with impact wall thickness getting thicker in the larger sizes, don't let you put sockets on the next peg over. That is why I went with the magnetic mat for the sockets. yah they are spendy. But they (6s series) were on sale in the spring and also my Matco guy gave me a discount on top of that, so I got into it for about 2grand less then retail. I just could not pass it up, since I had been waiting for almost a year for them to go on sale just so I could afford one. Also when it how you make you money it is a "justafiable expense" plus I get to write it off on taxes

Man that is some serious driving skill. Some of that was just a wee bit too close for my comfort. Thanks for the vid.

Here some pics of my baby. It is a Matco 6s series (6225RX) with stainless steel top and custom drawer configuration, and loaded with MAC, Snap ON, Matco, and S&K tools. It took me ten years of wrenching to graduate into it this spring. My ulitmate box (the one I retire with) will be a triple bay with side lockers and a hutch. What I love about it is the two 4in deep full length top drawers. It keeps the bulk of my most used tools in them. I would have bought a Mac Maximiser over this one had they had the two full length 4inch deep drawers like this one. But all the have is a 4in and 2in configuration....Its in my garage now because I am laid off of work/staring my own suby shop after all these years. So mom in law's stuff hasn't been moved to the attic yet, but is going to be now. Because it sure is a pain to work in only one side of the garage especially when your project car is in the front of the bay. I don't really care for Snap On boxes. Just something about them I don't like. The drawers seem cheap and flimsy and I just don't like their over all construction, along with the fit and finish. But that is my opinion. And no I did not clean and organize it just for the pictures. My box looks like this 24/7 just ask Baccarruda and Monstaru. I am just like this by nature. Here is a peak at it and 3 of the drawers but they all are just as organized, But I figure I would spare you all the pics of all the drawers. My Old Tool box that I had right out of Tech School. Now it holds all my "switched out tools" and other miscelanious items.

Farewell my friend. You served my family well. When the boys were wee tots they had so much playing race car in you. You were going to be chopped, shaved, air bagged, ej22 conversioned, custom paint and interior. But then the enthusiasium died. The kids grew up, and I switched interests and car careers. So there you sat in a coner, neglected, un-loved, and forgoton about. But today, a new owner picked you up, and had the same love in his voice and on his face I once had for you for. And had for 20 years of your kind. "Your going straight to the shop" where another family is going to give you the love you once recieved from us. But rest assured, the contrubution made today will be thus put into the "stomper" in fact you have provided the final funds for the "completion" of it. So thank you and may you serv your new owner well. This one is not mine but gives you a better idea of what it is/could have been

Looks great man. Can't wait to see it run and drive. Also I have an extra ea82 shifter if you need it. It may fit a bit better then trying to "retro fit" the ea81. Just a thought. Any way it looks great dude. Can't wait till we all can run together at the ORV park for some "break in" runs.

Hey thats a good thought. I might just have to do that. Don't want to have to yank the engine just to remove the alternator. Then it would be like a friken Fierro or porche, or, or , or, any other piece of crap like that.

Trust me dude I can relate. Do you know how hard it is for me to a see a dirty and flash rusted undercarriage with all new stuff holding it up. If I could have I would have spent a month putting my lift in I would have. I would have taken one peice out, clean paint and re-install. Then I would under coat the whole thing. Which I still may end up doing any way. But I had to jump on the oportunity. I mean just look what I did with the engine. And I know you have seen my tool box I have after all I do have obessive compulsive personality, and borderline personalty. But the point remains, that when you come out of the box, you have to do out of the box things. You came out of the box when you lifted the suby, therefore don't try and put it back in the box, or make a box that will fit it. Just go with it. But if your dead set on getting that sway bar back in there, we can take a look at it.

Be a MAN... Take it off and leave it off. If you want conereing then get a conering car. When it comes to cars you get one or the other, but not both. Either it cruises or it zips. This is due to the nature and physics required for the fields of play to be met.

I suggest getting a hold of "The Beast I Drive" he is the brat king and master lift maker. They are military tank quality and have all the correct camber angles. But keep in mind you will have some camber with a lift that big, it is just a fact of life. Either deal with or go back to mamby pamby stock.

I don't think I am going to make it to EC in the "stomperu" but I might just show up for it. I can drive my 96 lego over there. I am not sure one way or the other.

Never seen that one, but man I sure would like to have it. Maybe I will do that to mine when I get tired of it. Oh wait I never get tired of subarus.

Srictly offroad. In fact you will want to have one fo the rear axles pulled out if running on the street. You will scrub tires like crazy and have all sorts of binding issues, from what I understand.

Ok well I finally got the engine clean enough to start puting it all back together. The exhaust valves and ports were uber coked up so I soaked them with acid and power hosed them as well. They're a lot better and mostly free of carbon. Plus I figure I will run a couple cans of sea foam through it on initial start up. I did the same for the intakes but they weren't as bad. First I started with the oil pan. Took it off and put it in the parts washer. Wire wheeled all the bolts and got them all ready as well. Then replaced the pick up tube o-ring and ultra-grey'ed the pan and put on the new flat o-ring that goes between the block and the pan. Next I went after the oil pump and water pump. When I pulled off the oil pump two of the screws were some what un-threaded. So took it all apart cleaned everything and checked for clearances. Everything was ok so I put it back together wire wheeled the bolts, ultra-grey'ed the sealing surface, put on the block o-ring, and installed the new crank seal. I might add that I have never seen as hard and or cracked seals (all of them) on any suby until this one. I am sure they have never been replaced and have gotten super hot in the past. After the oil pump I did the water pump, pretty much same process but used the a suby metal gasket (instead of that cheezy paper one they give you with the GMB pump) aircraft gasket sealer on the gasket and liquid pvc silicone on the bolt threads. Then came the cam seals, install the back t-cover plastic with the new rubber seals. and put on the cam gears. Next I installed the new rollers, idlers, tensioner and t-belt. Then replaced ALL the rubber seals on the rest of the t-belt covers and installed them. OK so next came putting on the brackets for the PS pump and alternator. Of course those went in the parts washer too. If it could be put in the parts washer, or solvent tank or wire wheeled, or cleaned in any way shape or form it got done (TO ANYTHING !!!!) This engine was one big grease pile when I got a hold of it and my anal/meticulous/professional mechanic nature would not allow for it to go in the car that way, even if I am going to get it all muddy, I still plan on keeping it clean as possible. And the best way to do that s start out clean. Sorry for the digression, now back to the post. OK I installed the PS pump and bracket. But I did not like the huge steal alt/ac bracket so I pulled the spare one off of my blown 96 EJ22 motor and bolted it on. It fit perfectly and is so much lighter and nicer looking. Plus I like the design better. I am not going to use the ac any way and will end up making a custom bracket for the additional alternator so I figured why not. However one of the two problems I ran into was that the back corner of the bracket hit the intake where the bolt hole for one of the throttle cable mounts go to. So I ground away enough on each piece to make it fit, once it was all bolted down. Second was the alternator. The bushing/shim on the inside was giving me clearance problems so I ground it flat. So now I could at least get it into position. But next was the tab on the tensioner side of the alternator was to big to allow for a full fulcrum swing in the mount, so I ground that off a bit as well until I had a full swing. Once I had that all worked out I took off the pump and alt so I could then proceed with the intake intstall. So the inside of the intake was all cruddy as well and there was a lot of carbon around the injector areas...out with the brake clean, rags and a blow gun I went. The vacuum lines were all hard and cracked so replaced those as well. After installing the intake I then prceeded to connect everything. All the electrical connectors got di-electric grease applied before being connected and the various hoses got lubed as well. The PCV/Separator plate tube assembly was completely cracked and ruined so I used the one off the 96 as well. It actually fits better, and the way the piping is run has a cleaner look; so that made me happy Once everything was all hooked up I took the motor off the engine stand and replaced the rear main. Then pulled off the seperator plate and cleaned it all up and re-seal/re-torqued it down. Its getting closer to having phase one done (phase one, being a driving car). Next week the flywheel goes to the machine shop. And don't worry guys the Fram filter won't be on it when I install it. A nice new suby one will be put on

Chevy, Toyota, Isuzu, and Mistubishi six lug 15x6 or 15x7 will work also, but your gonna have to do some drilling on either the rim or the hubs to get the other two lugs to fit.

...Or Yellow, something like the blue ones or maby a dark gey would be nice. But no bright colors please

Get the car in the air (and supported )and wiggle the tires from side to side and top to bottom. Have some one under the car looking for any "play" in the tie rods, bushings, struts, rack, knukles, etc, or you look while they wiggle. Next take a beefy (two foot or more) pry bar and lift up on the susbension and ball joint points of the car, try prying this way and that to see if anything gives. Pry on various connected suspension and steering items. Look for shiney or worn areas on or around rubber bushings and sealed greased areas. If you still can't find or determine anything either wait till it gets worse or give it a tire rotation and see if it goes away. If it does it may have been out of balanced tires, I would then reccomened a tire balance and alignment check.

Thanks Bill. Maybe I will take you up on that offer. The tires that are on it now are 30x9.5x15 but they are el' toasty. I have some 225x75x15 that in a little better shape that I will probably run with until I can afford to get new ones before winter hits

Ok now for the rest of the post. I had to run earlier so I was not able to finish it. All of my parts came in the other day. The're all GMB or NSK along with alot of suby parts. The tensioner is suby oem as well. The crank seal I already installed when I redid the oil pump so you can't see that in the pic. I had to buy all the rubber seals for the front and rear timing covers as well beacuse they were so swollen with oil that they were just toast. I also had to replace all the plastic as well for the same reason but I had extras of that laying around. When I was at pull and save the other day getting some more parts for the project I saw these rims on a 90 Trooper and thought they would make a good set. But there was only three and so I hunted around and found the fourth in a car a few rows over. I sized it up against a wagon that was there and nocked out two of the studs and it bolted right up. I measured the offset and it was ubber close to the suby ones. So I bought them for 12 bucks a piece. Not a bad score if you ask me. When I go back to shop I will pull off the 30 x 9.5 x 15's and throw them in the parts washer and then paint them. I'm a thinkin flat black (the car will eventually wind up OD green and or camo, going for a military look ) But we will see. I had to hold them up against the car with a bungy cord so the placement may be off a little because of tire roll and lean out but you get the jist. Front rear

Yah man, I would have loved to keep everything in its stock location and keep the integrity of the interior but it just seemed like it would not work. Maybe in the future I can come up with something that will bring everything back into the cabin, but for right now I want to get the thing on the road. And I had to move forward.

Your probly right, must be the muscle car in me talking. 4:11 were pretty "big" and I have read several threads about 4:11 suby diffs being installed in other suby rigs. So I guess I know where to go from here. Thanks again.

Well I got some more work done. Finally got the shifting all worked out So I will post some pics. What I started out doing was trying to extend everything. I cut the tubing in half and then tapped it out. It failed misseriably. I could not even shift it with the jam nuts locked down to max. So I scrapped that idea and started over again. This time with the suggestion of Monstaru and the advice of Baccaruda and looking at his car for a referance. I figured this time I would just brin the shifting down tot he trans and keep it all "stock" down there. I did some testing and R&D and this is what I came up with. I dropped the shift bracket 4inches and offset it a bit so that the stabilzer would reach the mount. Plus I notched the top part so it would clear the e-brake cable on the left side. Next I went after the 4x4 selector. At First I thought well if the shifter went down four inches then bring the selector up 4in. But when I did that the shifter was jammed against the bracketry in second and fourth and had no reverse. So I brough it down 2in and that seemed to be the sweet spot but it was hitting the tunnel and hitting the 4low switch. But I knew I was on the right path. So Went back to the junk yard and found a curved slector out of and 87 wagon, it was even worse. So I went back to the bannanna shifter. I cut off the switch mount (if you dont know your in 4 low you have a problem ) and will remount it else where. Then I clearance the tunnel to fit the slector bar and bolted it all back up. It worked much better and I had all gears and reverse. I need to bend up the slector just a wee bit and to the left at 90 to get it out of the way the tray. Plus I think I will straighten the shifter a bit as well. But for right now it all works well. I plan on bracing the bracketry in some way under the car as well because there is just a little bit to much flex when shifting or slecting. For clearance issues (because low and 2nd are really colse to another) I am just going to buy some narrow after market razoo shifter knobs. The E-brake cable going the clearanced corner. The 4in bracket for the shift assmebly. shift assembly with 2in 4x4 selector bracket. clearanced shift area. Installed 4low and 2nd gear more later

I have a 4:11 Diff I pulled out of my 92 Lego parts car along with the driveline and 5spd tranny. How much is a reasonable asking price to sell it on CR or other. I hear that 4:11 are kind of a "hot" item. Also what could one get for the 5spd tranny I figure the driveline will just be a throw in or like 30 bucks or so out right. Thanks again