Mugs

Nice Find Bill. I know where to go to when it comes time to get one for my youngest kid. He wants a brat soooooooo bad and has almost enough saved up to get one. But I/we need to get my project done first.

Aha I see. My mistake.

Well yah, I used High temp paint or was it water based house paint. I forget, the paint fumes were getting to me

Well, it has been a little hectic these past few days. My daughter is getting married this Sunday, so you can imagine the running around I have been doing doing last minute preperation things. But I did manage to get some work done on the suby. I got the shifting and 4x4 linkage all figured out and the custom bracketry built. Now I need to take it all out and clean it and then paint it. Then I will post some pics of that porportion. I took all the engine stuff to the shop and threw it in the parts washer for about an hour and man it came out sooo nice. The one thing that came out real well was the valve covers. Plus I wire wheeled them on the bench grinder and they "polished" very nicely. So I figured I would do a little experimenting with paint. This is what I came up with. Think I will do another set all black and then just do the "pin stripping" like thes ones and see how they look. Tommarrow the rest of all my parts come for my engine, so I will have that done next week. Plus today I scored some 15x6 - 6 lug Izuzu rims off a 1990 trooper that was next to the car I was yanking parts off of. I thought hey those would look good on the stomper. I quickly mearsered the offset and then popped two studs out of the front rotors and did some "tire clearing" with my hammer and they bolted right up....SCORE plus they had 30x9.5x15tires on them. Granite they are bald as crap but it gave an idea of whether or not they will fit. Well some more family just walked through the door so I will get some pics of the rims up later. Cheers

OK some one clue in the clueless guy. I saw McBratt make the poll and he lives in Iowa so I assumed it was a name for his club. But it seems that it is for a the local Washington sector so if that is the case, then count my vote back in. Any way my vote was the first one for the NW Subaru Offroad Club

Dude that is sweet. I have always wanted a sand rail. Now I know what to do with my "stomper" when it is so thrashed that there is nothing left to do but hack the body off. I figure the 6in lift and EJ22 will still be good so I can just tube it and go from there.

Thats too cool Scott I would love to make one of those. Oh yah I am allready knee deep in a project.

OOOPS sorry I thought we were voting for a new name on th NW Washington club, not North Western United states. Sorry there McBrat but you wil have to remove my vote for the NW Subaru offroad club... Cool name though

I sent you a PM. Cheers mugs

Well I have been banging my head on the wall for a bit, trying to figure out the shifting. But I finally came up with a system that works. Thanks to some suggestions from Monstaru and Baccaruda. I have it jigged in and will get her welded up tommarrow. I went after the 4x4 selector a bit, but could not come up with anything viable yet. So I dedcided to take a break from it and clean up the engine a bit and get started on it. She was caked in grease and needed a good cleaning before I even began on it. It was so oil and grease soaked that the timing coveres and rubber seals were all swollen to the point of rubbing into the crank pulley and a/c pulley. I have replacements for them so I was not too concerned with getting them perfect. I will get her super, uber clean when I start tearing into her. Think I will even take off the intake just to be able to clean the block better. Maybe even rent a steam cleaner but will see what happens as I go along. I will post some pics of the shifter mechanisms when I get it all welded up and in place.

Just throw caution to the wind, and friekin make the whole stinkin thing FULLY articulated, with crazy fat coil overs, and all custom tubed suspension and endoskeliton then just shell it with the hatch body...oh wait thats this winters project huh.

Slowly but surely man. Glad to see you are still able to get some progress done with your schedual. I can't wait to take our cars out and test at the ORV park........soon I hope.

Yah, the original one did nothave the little springy thingy in it to open it when the lever was pulled so I got that one at the junk yard one day when I was out there, and put it on. Works great now. Plus I figured it is not going to matter because the paint scheme is changing any way.

Beasty it is no worries man, I totally trust your lift and its geometry when it is done and they all take a look at it, they will feel grimmy

I run into this alot at the shop. Start by replacing the rear O2 snesor. If it is not working properly then it thinks the cat is below threshold and will set the 0420 code. I reccomend a Bosch or factory O2 not a cheezy run of the mill money saver kind. Hope this helps, and keep us posted.

True they don't compress the suspension, but they allow the car to "come up" enough for the weight of the engine and car to bring the hubs closeer to center instead of it acting like I have it on jack satnds. At least that is what I think I am trying to say. It makes sense to me any ways.

Yah I bet she would. I should send her pics of the empty engine bay as well. Maybe I will after I get some legal documents still owed to me on the car

Not sure yet, some all-terains of some sort. I haven't even crossed that bridge yet. I still need to get the EJ in and then I can worry about how to drive it out of my garage.

Also when the dinky 13 in tires and rims come off and the 15's with 235/75/15 goes in that will bring the fully extended struts back into where the should be. What a reversed camberd front wheel drive vw "bug" isn't cool?

Yah I know another suby build thread But this one is mine dang it, and it is the offroad forum. So here goes What it is: 85 GL Wagon 5 Spd D/R What has been done/is in the works: 6in monster lift (thanks monstaru & beastIdrive) EJ22 adapter plate (beastIdrive) Tore out the toasted manual rack and replaced it with a power steering rack and lines Took off all the rubber trim custom built steerng linkage Aquired a wrecked donor car for EJ22 and pulled it and now and starting to go through it. What is still in the works: Shift inkage and stabilizer rear disc brake conversion EJ22 conversion Plus a ton of other crap that goes through my head daily. But I want to get it running and driving first, before I tackle the other stuff A special thanks and shout out to "monstaru" of rthe inspiration, motivation and help. A second shoutout to "beastIdrive" for the monster lift and plate. Man aint nothing going to break that stuff. Now for some pics monstaru gettin' jiggy with the radius rod mounts I need some 31's holy crap numbchux where are you she need some resealing done, but it was a one owner car, with all maintainance receipts Thanks for watching Cheers

Ok so I checked the FAQ before posting here and came up with nothing. So here goes. Monstaru came over and helped me (he did most of it) install my 6in lift on my 85 Gl . So now comes the work of figureing out how to get the steering reconnected and the shift linkage and d/r selector back up into the drivers compartment so I can dirve this thing. I think I have the steering figured out, but what do you guys do about the shift linkage, shifter stabalizer, and d/r selector? Any and all helps especially with pics would be great. Sorry no pics yet, I am haveing trouble transfering the pic from my camera to my pc, but when I get soem I will post them. A special thanks to Monstaru, who showed me that it is possoble to work on my car without a hoist, air tools, and on my back.

Snap-On makes a spark plug socket that does not have a boot. The plug just sits in there and then when your done tighting just wiggle the socket and it releases. I think I paid about 20 bucks for it off the truck when he came by the shop on his regular weekly visit. I love it, and it works great. As far as re-installing I just drop the plugs in the whole (apply anti-seize to the threads first) and then hand start them with the same socket and a wobbly extension. Also this socket works great just the same for removal. I will get the part number and post it for you. I hate to say it, but you may need to remove the valve cover just to give you a bit more room and then maybe you can get a pair of needle nose in there, or a thin knife or something to remove that stubborn socket rubber. Hope this helps.

Try bolting everything back up to creat a solid platform. Of course leave the tranny side of the axle out and then pound away at the bugger. I would reccomend wrapping the lug nuts in something like duct tape to prevent the accidental hit to them that could cause dammage. If that does not work, what I have done in some cases is put the axle back into the tranny, then un bolted eveything in order to remove the hub (bungy cord the calipers up and out of the way). Once the hub is able to just hang from the front cv joint I have hit the hub in the flattest part that is not the bearing area and "popped" the axle apart from the inside of the boot (basiaclly the joint comes off the internal snap ring) then I cut away the boot to be able to get the hub free and over to a vise or press. I then proceed to hammer on the axle using the vise as a platform to lay the hub flat, the same goes for a press but instead I press the axle out...but not everybody has access to a press. Once the cv part of the axle is out then I take out the DOJ part of the axle from the tranny, and put everything pack together, and of course I apply a light layer of grease to the splines and hub as well before going back in. Hope this helps

I have quit a bit to say about this, but I need to head to bed. Most shops in this area charge about 2600-3500 for the job. Our shop charges about 3600 or so depending on what is needed. But that includes maching the heads, instaling new valve stem seals, along with solvent diping the head and valves. Re-sealing oil pump, seperator plate, oil pan, and replacing rear main, valve cover gaskets. New t-belt, H20 Pump. t-stat, pulleys, plugs, and all other seals and gaskets invloved with the tear down of the heads. Those that only charge 1600 or so are only replacing the gaskets and nothing else, some time they don't even maching them, they just check them "straightness" and replace the gaskets if their "staraight."

This is true, and they are so "old" now that one can ouc one up for about $400-1000. But if you want the latest greatest the SnapOn Modis by far the bets out there now. But with a price tag of $7800 it is pretty much for shops to own and have...good thing I am a suby tec and don't have to fork that much out personally...well at leat for that any way.