Mugs

First he is a customer. Second to give you an idea of how this guy maintains his car...My 96 lego wagon is for sale and I would not sell it to him just because of the aperance of his car both inside and out. I would cry every time he would bring back "my" car into the shop for some type of maintainance and see all of what he has done to it...especially the interior...it looks like a time bomb went off in it. Plus he's a little arrogant poo poo head anyway. So basiaclly I will find a turbo motor to replace it with, or tell him like I told him to do before...SCRAP IT. Personaly this is one suby customer I hope to never have to deal with in the near furture if ever at all. Most of my suby customers are great and I work with them on the repairs of their cars...but this guy...ha. Not again, not if I have to.

I could give them a call and pick there brains. It is for a customer of mine at my shop. Did not even know there was a "suby" shop in Hayden. Thanks for the help

looks great, so excited to see the progress of it.

93 Legacy Turbo. Motor is el gonzo. Found oil squirters in oil pan and then the head gasket blew and there is coolant in the oil pan, valves clack like crazy. I personally don't like this series of turbo motors and want the guy to do a conversion to non turbo EJ22. what if any is involved with the retro fit, in particualr the ecu/wiring. I know I will need to find a "stock" y-pipe, but other the just finding and bolting in the NA EJ22 what els is needed. Thanks in advance for your help.

The head bolts will do this. Its ok

Be careful buying the aftermarket H2O pump and that stupid paper gasket that comes with it. In fact I don't recomend it at all. Within the past week I have had to repair two failed after market H2O pump failures that were done by a "joe snuffy" shop that did not know what they were doing. The one job was so bad I had to pretty much replace everything except the heater core. The hoses were blown to smitherines and the radiator inlet was gernaded. There was so much metal shavings in the cooling system I could have recylced it and made some more money...it was acutally a butchered head gasket job, that I just had to stop before I found anything ealse wrong with the car...but I am sure it will be back in some time when the HG's fail.

Like I have always said and you can qoute me on this one "Ford Owner Really Dumb" I can not even voice how much I had frieking fords.

Yank the motor, pull the heads, have them re-built, replace the head gaskets, replace the cam seals, pull the oil pump and re-seal it, install a new crank seal while its off the block, replace the valve cover seals, and spark plug seals, tensioner and idler pulleys, H20 pump, t-stat, and re-seal your oil pan while it is out. Re-seal your seperator plate and if it does not have the updated tin one with the allen head bolts do that as well, replace the rear main, and don't froget to re-sela the end caps where the cams are as well as replacing the rubber seal as well. Or at least that is what I would do with it if it was my car and I had it. Then again I can do all that work, but if your not so mechanically inclined better fined a reputable shop and have them do it. I would also do a lot more to it then just this, like a full on tune up while out of the engine bay, oh and don't forget the t-belt as well. There is more I am sure, but that is just off the top of my head

Two thoughts, it could be your rear main, or it could be the seperator plate. A: Did you update the sepreator plate with the metal one? B: did you use the updated allen head bolts? One will have lock tight on it, it goes on the first left hole that is not a through hole. C: Did you use "Ultra Grey" sylicon or equivilant and not some run of the mill kind. D: Did you replace the PCV valve at the same time? if not you may be creating an excessive engine pressure and thus a leak has sprung again. Lastly if and when you seperate the engine/trans again and you find that it is the rear main, pull the seal and check around the crank shaft to make sure you have not scared the sealing surface from previous attmepts of removal and install. If you have you will need to perform a speedy sleeve repair before putting a new seal on. Hope this helps.

Ok, I will have to admit my nievity on this one. This is the first 2.2 turbo I have worked on and so I was green going into it. It is a 94 Leg wagon 2.2 SOHC Turbo. It came in runnning like a dog and and upon further diag work I determined that the turbo was shot. But also the valve covers were leaking like a sive and the oil pan was leaking like mad as well. When I pulled the oil pan I noted that it was way way way too glittery for my tates and put it on the RO. But the boss did nothing about it so I completed the job and then test drove the piss out of it for about an hour or so. Everything seems to be back to "normal" so I turned in the keys. Now it is back (i week later) and making a horrible valve train noise...like it is starving for oil. I don't have the proper oil pressure tester to be able to tap into the oil pump, but I am just wondering is there anything I could have missed when doing the oil pan. The pick up tube came out different then all the others, in the fact that it is attached to a bracket and the bolts were in a different place. After all the repairs were done there was this one little bolt that has a little orffiss hole going through it. I could not figure out where it went and all the bolts that held the pick up tube and what not was in place so I ignored it, and besides a few other oddities fell out of the pan as well. Did I miss something, or is this engine toast like I tried to tell the customer and my boss, or is there some tests I can do to figure out what the heck is going on. Any and all help would be greatly apreciated. Thanks in advance.

Pull the tranny, alot less liability for something to go wrong on the way back in or out. Replace the rear main and new updated seperater plate with the new udated bolts kit as well. Since the tranny is out replace the clutch and have the fly wheel turned and put it all back together. And like others have said it is more likely the seperator plate then the rear main.

Oh what ever I can do better stunts than that BEEP BEEP BEEP...Huh, what, oh man the alarm clock is going off. That was a definite add to the favorites folder.

I am in too. I tried to join the beta a few weeks ago but the account set up was not succsessful, so let us know when it is up and running

What year of legacy were you working on? I have never had to do all that. Just take out the roll pin, undo the axle nut, stamp and mark the alignment bolt on the two strut bolts, take out both strut bolts, pull down the whole assembly with you hand/body weight and pop out the axle on the caliper side, then off the tranny side. Repeat process to install. Badda boom badda bing 15 mins your done.

Ditto on all the repsonses, and yes you will want to replace the wires as mentioned, as per the oil soaked ruber will swell up and wil be a pain in the bahooky to get back on the plugs. You will need to order (from the factory) valve cover seal, plug well seals, and valve cover bolt seals, to do the job properly. Happy wrenching

Depends on the area. Here in the INW where I live the average shop rate is about $90 and hour. I don't work for a dealership but I do work on subys in the shop I am at. Of course it depends on the suby I am working on, but lets give the average for say an 01 obw 2.5 sohc, I charge/get 1.3 hours for plugs and 1.5 for plugs and wires. Plugs usually cost about $4-7 a piece I think. Now If I am doing the vc's I only charge an additional .3 for plug replacment and no charge to run the new wires. Hope ths helps

Welcome. I have a friend who lives in W. Perth...just bought an 08 Forester..... And for the un-informed, aussiebrock does not mean Washington State when he says "WA", he means Western Australia, which is where Perth is. Just had to clear that up before too many got confused there mate. Cheers.

ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh la la very nice.

Actually I think I might just try and replace the auto trans and sell the car or part the car out, as I just got today an 85 GL 5spd with DR diff :banana:

Looks cool to me, but the first thing that hit me was the chrome grill trim..its looks like the friekin mazda symbol:eek: I hate mazda and fords. And no way suby are even close to audi's. I work on both and let me tell you what I will take a suby any day. Do you have any clue what it takes to work on an audi...there junk man, stay away from them, and the mantainence is out of this world pricey. But if you want one and have enough money to pay for the up keep go ahead I guess.

Ok so I just aquired a 90 loyale 2wd auto (ya blase' I know, but it was free) and the tranny is blown. So how hard would it be to just throw in a 4 or 5 speed? Finding an auto is a little tough for some reason. Also how hard would it be just to convert this over to a 4 wheely rig It is more or less just going to be a car to get on the road and filp over (sell) to be able to fund a different project. Unless it is fairly easy to turn into a killer 4wd. Were talking DR diff, 6 in lift, ej22 (sitting in the garage as we speak) etc :banana:

Ya I know about bleeding the vanagons, we get alot of them in the shop. It would be my first, but I always like to dive right in...That being said going for the svx motor from the get go wolud be something I might try. I would not want to do it again...I.E. put in a 2.5 and then be disapointed/wishing that I had the svx from the start. I am not trying to make a racer but the extra power will come in handy with a loaded westy 2 dogs, 2 kids, and a wife :-\

Ok so here is my theory on the subject, but I want to here from you guys on it. I am getting ready to buy a H20 boxer westy and the first thing that is going to happen is an engine conversion. So here is my theory/questions. An H6 is going to give me more horse power and therfore require less "energy" to move the westy, therefore it should get me better gas mileage then an EJ25 SOHC an also will power me up the steep grades with ease because the motor will not have to work as hard. Is this an accurate theory or am I off base and it does not really matter. This brings me to my next question, I have an EJ22 in the garage that needs the heads re-worked and the crank key area re-worked as well (previous owner screwed it all up trying to do an at home t-belt job...It was cheaper for me to buy a used motor and do an R&R) So basically all I need to do is have my machinist do the work and find a wireing harness, and a away I go. But I would really like to save this motor for an old school suby that will become my "new" backpacking rig...(since I have to sell the 96 leg wagon to finance the westy project) So What, if any; is the advantage of the EJ25 SOHC over the EJ22. Both are readily available to me and not that much in the way of cash difference. Am I am just gaining a few extra ponies and will it really make that much of a difference in the long run of things, or should I really focus on getting an H6 style motor and going with that? I want to here from all of you out there that has allready gone through the hoops of this. Thanks in advance.

Ridng my bike without a helmet, down to the corner store without the fear of getting, raped, mugged, kidnapped, or killed. Flying down the country road in the back of a beat up pickup, sitting on top of the fresh cut hey bails. Swimming in the creek and not worrying about some disease Doing over a 100 mph in a car on a back road and know you will never see a cop My built to the hilt 69 baja bug inocent summer love playing in the mud

Ok so now that the dust has settled, I can get around to posting the results for the week. First off thank you to everyone that responded. Since I am the now and new self proclaimed suby tech and also taking on side jobs with the hope of maybe opening my own shop here in a few years you will be "seeing" a lot more of me. Everybody and their mother had a speedy sleeve for the cam on a 01 OBW 2.5 SOHC but not the crank, which is the one I nicked. We had to order one from Cali overnight. It is a SKF part number 99121 can't remember the cost, but is was not cheap. I had to mic the crank and give them the specs and they sent the apropriate sleeve. I had to shave off about a half inch from the width. Did this by using a gasket remover pad and die grinder in a vise. I just kept going at it untill the mic spec came within toloerance. I then put some ultra grey around the inside to keep the oil from seeping betweem the two and put everything back together, and let the car run for about an hour...no leeky The local parts store (carquest) across the street from our shop had that E-Bay lysle seal puller for 18 bucks so I bought, looks like it should work out well in the next situation where I have to pull a seal like that. The Snap On seal puller (set) worked well for this application (I did not have the lysle yet) but keep in mind the seal had only been in for about 5 days since I did the job. I used the stubby contoured tip one (SGSR3) and it popped right out. These are supposed to me a non maring material so we will see. Any way all is well in Doug's suby world right now, and hopfeully my little niche that I have finally discoverd (in other words I finally found a car that I enjoy working on and understand, and don't cringe when they come through the door. Plus the boss is giving them all to me since I told him that all I want to work on is suby's.) will pay off if the Lord sees fit for me to be doing this as a carreer and not teaching college. Again thanks to all for your help. And I look forward to becoming a full participant in this forum...provided I can find a way to not work 70 hours a week