Mugs

Not sure if your a USMB member but we waved the peace sign to each other today Aug 30 2013. You: lifted Silver GL wagon, Yakima basket, possible EJ..by the sound of the exhaust. You were headed down Landsberg road towards Hobart. Me: Silver 2000 OBS Thule bars with spoiler. Tinted windshield visor. Dirty Impreza sticker on the lower drivers side windshield corner. I was headed on Landsberg road headed towards Four Corners. Any way..whats up, you live around that area? Figured this would go here, because it was a lifted rig I saw.

Bill is the man, and you can't go wrong with his stuff.

I know the area well, and there are no independent Suby shops in that area. But There is a really good shop down in Salem called B & B Auto super honest guy, and I think he owns a Subaru himself. I know Salem is a bit of a drive, but it is the best I can do for ya....

I want the extra 20HP...but by the time I am done with it I figure it will be up to about 180-185ish hp (which is 40 more then the 2.2). Just want it for more powarrrr, especially if I am gonna be rolling over larger tires and have the extra weight of tubed bumpers and what not. Also by the time I am done with a 2.5 they are as reliable as a 2.2. I have been thinking about the frakenmotors, I have the stuff to go either way. I was really impressed when we got done building monstaru's, but not sure about the mpg of it though, I would still like to be in the 26-28 range. I do a ton of driving. Either way its better then my full size 3 door GMC truck.

Nice score, I think the EA82's look tuff lifted. Heres mine from a few years ago.

Thanks, It's been fun to be able to build something again. The drive back to the wetside was a blast, especially snoqualmie pass. Now I just need to hunt down a decent 2.5 for it. I want that next, before I put on the lift and tube bumpers....if I do the lift. Slow and steady and she'll get done. I got to come up for a name for it. Thanks for reading.

WARNING VERY LONG INITIAL POST: It should read more like "Trials and Tribulations of building a Trail-E-Cross." :pissed: Well I figured I might as well get started on this build thread, as the pictures are piling up, and the check list is getting checked off one by one. My goal is to build a ride that is capable of weekend rally cross, and to get me up forest, BLM, and un maintained roads, that I sometimes have to go on to get to the trail heads for my hikes. Hence the name Trail-E-Cross So where did we end off? Oh yes I had just purchased the car, a 2000 OBS. The first thing I did was to replace the flasher relay, so I could have blinkers, and not have people saying hello to me with only one finger :angryfinger: It also had a bashed in fender, no marker light, and no fender blinker. Which I readily replaced with a new fender, marker light and fender blinker. I also replaced a few other burnt out bulbs so now all my lights work. I had noticed on the drive home that the Thule rack makes a hilacious wind turbulence sound. So next was to get the spoiler on it, and throw some sticker bomb on it. And also install my bike mount on it. Which is where I left you guys with the original posting of it...So now on to the "phase one" of the build. The first thing was to get rid of that crappy messed up wanna-be-silver tint and get on so real tint... I have a tint guy..and he is the man :lick: So I started by steaming the tint off, thats the best and easiest way to get it off. The glue and everything comes off in one felled swoop. But first to make my life and his (tint guy) easier I removed all the door panels, and rear hatch panel. as you can see, steaming it makes life a lot easier. all clean and ready for tint. Now for the real deal. I was tempted to go 5% all the way around but I wanted to be able to see in the woods at night, especially when backing up. So I went 5 % on the rear doors, and ports, 20% on the driver side and passenger side and then 5% visor in the front. You don't really notice too much a difference in tint shade, unless it is in direct sunlight. But man oh man does it make a difference on those hot days. So much nicer on the inside. Once you have a tinted car, you will always want it. Ok "phase two." :punch: I scored a killer deal on 2.5RS front and rear disc brake assemblies with stainless brake lines, black interior cladding, STI front and rear sway bars, with mounting brackets and hardware, and outback 16in steelies, and a VLSD chunk. Then I went to my local Pull and Save and pulled off a 99 Outback with only 167K on it, struts, all the lift blocks, bracketry that goes with the lift blocks, trailing arms, the front control arm risers, blackish-grey center console, and every nut and bolt that came off as I was pulling stuff off. So with only 3 days before I needed to get packed up and head back to the wetside for work, I decide hey it would good idea to put in the VLSD, sway bars, and disc breaks, along with all the maintenance I wanted to do on it :cuckoo: So I replace the plugs, fuel filter, trans fluid and filter, PCV valve, diff fluid. Then I decide to check and make sure that the timing belt had been done correctly (I knew part of it wasn't because it had regular coolant in it and not Subaru coolant in it.) So I tear open the timing belt and take everything off, and check it...its all good and all Suby parts. So I replace the T-stat with a OE style lower 77c* stat and put her back together. My little trick to getting the belt to stay in place And if you don't have one of these to take the crank bolt off and put back on, get one. I don't screw around or jerry rig anything...I'm too anal, ocd, perfectionistic what ever you want to call it. I just take extreme pride in my work. After it was all buttoned up, I put in the Subaru coolant conditioner and coolant, started her up, and ran it till the fans started cycling properly. O.K. Next phase..so thats what, phase 3...now the trials and tribulation begin. OK so swap out the front single piston calipers with the RS duel calipers..no problem, plus the PO had just had the pads and rotors done, so score there. Now time to attack the rear. 1.Get the diff out, 2 get the drums swapped for discs, 3 change out the open diff and install VLSD chunk in diff, 4, put on STI sway bars. Obviously this is all done at the same time, because pretty much all of it has to come off in one way or another to make it all happen...RIGHT :flamed: Drop strut, Check, un-bolt sway bar links, Check, un-bolt big a** bolt that goes through hub assembly NOT :shootsself: :-x: they were rusted to the trailing arms, so I had to cut them out. Now for the diff story: So I finally get the diff out And proceed to work on getting the chunk out so I can swap my ring gear onto the VLSD and get it all back together. Well the impy diffs (as we all well know) have that stupid spline carrier bearing retainer ring, that is an absolute nightmare to get out...so I learned. So I don't have the special tool to get there bearing retainer off, nor did I have time to make one. I attempted to do it, but broke two tabs on each side and said I better stop while I am still ahead. So I start calling around. I finally got a hold of a local differential shop and he said bring it in and he will see what he can't do. Man we tried everything, you name it we tried it. And buy now I was into it too deep to put it back in. We burnt the axle seals out trying to put some heat on it. So with only two more days till I needed to be packed up, I decide to call it. Since I needed to go to the salvage yard and pick up some lateral arms (I couldn't get those rusted bushings out either) I decided to just buy another diff. So along with two new lateral arms I got a low mileage 2003 Forester VLSD 4:11 diff, and two axels to go with it. Once back home I proceeded to take of all the diff covers, and seal them up with some ultra-grey. I wanted to "seal" the diff up so when I am out galavanting around it won't get water logged. Plus I wanted to check if in fact it did have a VLSD and the condition of the diff. I finally go the diff in, and all bolted up. And every nut and bolt that went back in got a heavy dose of either grease or anti-seize, or both. The only mod I had to was knock off the dust seals on the forester axles as they interfere with the dust seals on the impy hubs. No on to the rear disc brakes. Since they came as a whole assembly cables, and all. I decide to do a direct swap, and not bother with taking all of my stuff apart (what was remaining of it.) The driver side stainless line did not fit through the stock strut bracket, and came with some jerry rig thing for it. But I just cut a slot in the bracket just big enough to run the cable, and was still able to use the retainer clips. This pic doesn't show that...just the rear disc install. I replaced the pads while I was at it. My tool box hasn't looked like this since my tech days. It felt good though, even though was having a really hard go at it. Got all that done. So the third and last day, I was able to run my cables, put in the rear sway bar, detail it, and add some finishing touches. I pulled my interior out to run the parking brake cables. I finally the car paid me back. I scored a hand gun plastic holster that was attached to the drivers seat. And about 5 dollars in change from the carpets. I vacuumed it all out as well. I also wanted to put in the Outback center console thinking it would give me more storage room..because it does. But it was too big and I did't have time to customize it. So what I did do was, remove the storage compartment, and un screw the passenger cup holder. Now I have some room with out that stupid thing getting in the way. Note the size difference in my sway bar compared to the STI. I wasn't able to get the front one in, because I have to figure out how to make the mounting work out. The brackets are way different. Plus its only about 2mm difference, but I am sure it makes a difference. My Stock sway bar STI sway bar And for some finishing touches :lol2: Ya I know it says "..o f road..." I looked on the placard and it didn't come with an "f" but I very carefully took a white paint pen and stenciled one in. You can barley tell it doesn't look like the same font. Then a friend gave me this so I had to put it on. Its a magnet. Go ahead try and resist the cuteness of my dog. Gettin some hammock time Final thoughts: So I was originally planing on putting the Outback suspension and blocks in along with Forester springs, and the 16in rims and tires. But I am not sure about that, especially the steelies. there heavier then my combo now. Plus I really like the stance the car has, and man-oh-man does it ever handle better with that sway bar, and VLSD. And stops better too. So I am going to roll with it like it is for a bit, and see how much trouble I get into with the roads I go up. I may eventually put in the "lift" but next step is to build a mild 2.5 for it. So thats it for now, hope you all didn't get too bored reading a novel. Until next time......:rally-driver:

With a friend, have them run the car with the foot on the gas (as this is stated on how you can keep it running) and you take a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner or carb cleaner and start spraying on all the hoses, fittings, intake gasket area, throttle body, etc etc. When you hear the rpm's change you have hound the source of your leak.

Ya I really like the 2000-2001 because they came with the rear spoiler. They don't look so "turtle like." the green ones without the spoiler look "turtley" the most.

It was a private owner sale. I replaced the fender. The other one had been backed into, at a parking lot. The title is clean. No I did not do a car fax..I didn't feel as if I needed to. I checked it over very thoroughly before I bought the car, and felt good about the sale. Like I said I paid significantly less for then what the owner had in maintenance receipts for the past 18 months. Fortunately for me, the skills center where I work, can paint that right up for me.

Finally after a year of not having a suby to drive, I'm back in one again. I had to sell my Beautiful BRAT last year, do to life's situation. But it went to a suby home so I am happy about that. I have been wanting a Impreza wagon for a long time, in particular the Outback Sport, mainly for its styling queues, and added ground clearance, over just the impreza wagon. So this summer I went on the hunt. I really wanted a 99-2001 or 2004...sorry bug eye fans I have 3 rules for a DD, it has to have/be automatic, cruise control and A/C. I was willing to fudge a little on the auto part but not cruise and A/C (I drive 4 hours one way to home on the weekends, plus I am always on a trip of some sort.) After searching for about 3 weeks I ended upon this one. I gave a good once over and drove it the 4 hours back home. The guy had more into it in maintenance receipts for the past year (by a lot,) then I paid for it. And he kept it super clean (as the pics will show) so I felt good about that. I'm an avid backpacker, kayaker, snowboarder, cyclist kind of guy so I have certain requirements for my "buggy" (otherwise I would have bought an STI and called it a day) I need ground clearance and I want to have some extra pep, and other esthetics, that I envision the car looking like. So I am going to put a mild build EJ25 in it, forester struts with outback lift blocks, 16 Forester steelies with some AT style tires, tube bumpers, skid plates, and a VLSD, rear discs, and other small stuff along the way....But the more I look at it, and its "beefy stance" I may just leave the ground clearance alone but do the rest....we'll see. Here are some pics of how it looked when I got it home..well for the most part. I wasn't going to undo what I have already done. That will be in the build thread.

I have a locker....its made by Miller

Time to gut and exo it...Sorry about the loss. Always hard loosing a friend.

Well I'm sure in hell not going to be driving a Ford Owner Really Dumb product thats for sure. The rest depends on vintage and year.

Its about time I have been hoping this would be the next upgrade for the BRZ. Now the question is do I go for this, or stick with the plans for the new Dodge Challenger RT

Ya I got a Vlsd from a forum member here. Its out of a 2000 RS. Should be here by the end of the week. I'm super stocked about it.

No..It just slips down the front and then goes into the holes of the pulley. You do have to remove the radiator fans first though. There is a hole the middle of it where you slip in the 22mm socket and your set. If the engines is out (say for head gaskets) I just zap it off with my impact.

You can do it like this as well..and its is more "professional" Just type the word you want the link to go to. Open web site in another tab or window, copy the address, then come back and highlight the word/s. Then click on the url icon (it looks like a chain link with a plus sign on it) its on the right of the 1,2,3 icon. Click on that, paste the link in the url bar, and click ok. Blam now you have an embedded link. AutoTech Collision and Service

Thanks for the reply. But your link is in-op. Can you PM their web addy or the shop name, thanks.

True....But I have been able to use it on the middle wide section of the pulley and no damage was done (road side repair).....I have never been successful with the whole bar through the inspection hole in the back. I just use the special tool, because its what is required to do the job properly, and makes life easier. But then again I do a ton of t-belts so I guess for me it pays to have all the right equipment, and I'm OCD like that. YEMV (Your Experience May Vary)

Hey everybody, So my daughter is stationed over at an AFB with her hubby in Wichita Kansas. And I am just out on the hunt for a reliable shop she can take suby lego wag to, so she doesn't get hosed. I did all the major services before they left, but still want her to go to a reputable place for the regular routine stuff, and if anything major comes up. So all you peeps out there in Kansas land let me know of a good shop. Thanks

Also don't forget to take a small drill bit or something like that, that can fit in the hole of the tensioner to keep it completely collapsed when installing it. Otherwise your not gonna get that belt on (as previously stated.) And you may need a chain style vise grip to hold the crank pulley in place to break the crank bolt free, especially of you don't have the special tool to hold it in place. You will need to use this to tighten the crank bolt as well. And once you have the belt installed and pull the pin and roll your belt around until you bring the cams buck up tot the 12 o-clock position. Just to make sure everything is in time and working freely. I NEVER just start the engine, I role that sucker around a few times, just make sure things are moving and working properly. Also it may look like your a half tooth off on timing once you roll it around (and no your timing belts wont be aligned on the belt, just make sure the crank and cams are) thats ok...it that 40.5 thing. Hope that helps

Yah eventually I might bump up to the obx heli vlsd..there about 6-800 bones on the inter-web. Gonna do a few other mods to it first. I'm pretty sure I have the 4.11 diff..Its a 2000 Outback Sport (Impreza) with the 4EAT and the EJ22, which to the best of my knowledge and reading is the 4.11..the EJ25 OBW (and other cars) came with 4.44...then again I could be heinously wrong. I guess it is time to go count drive line revolutions per 5 tire turns.

Thanks for all the input guys. Its much appreciated. One of these days I might fork over the big bucks and buy a LSD center diff. But that won't be for a while. I want to do the 2.5 swap and get this guy off the ground a bit more first.

I tried that.....it says you can not receive any new messages