Mugs

Anyone have experience with this type of LSD. I am thinking about putting it in my 2000 Outback Sport auto..4.11 rear diff. I think the Forester has the same ratio. Seems like a good option as sourcing a LSD is getting pretty hard these days. Or will it even work?

As far as I know 93-2001 doors are all the same. If it doesn't work you could always return it.

I won't buy a DD car unless is has A/C (and cruise control)....I have to have it. I only run my windows down in the cool of the morning/evening or in the spring time..but anything above 80F and its on. Now to get the most efficient usage out of your A/C place your vent switch on recirculate and never have the fan on full blast, alway at least on setting below full, and as the car cools down more you can decrease the fan speed as well. Also with a lot of the newer cars you can set the temp control to be at a specific setting, this really helps as well. I won't get into all the technical details of why this works, and how...just take my word for it....unless someone really wants to know, then I can explain...just don't feel like doing that much writing right now.

Yes...especially with the older subies. The newer ones, say post 2000 seems to be a bit better....but yes I have done many-a-sodder repair.

2000-2003 ECU should be the same for your engine and wiring harness. Just keep your ECU in it. Worst case scenario you have to swap your intake onto the EJ25 to get the correct wires harness connectors. But its a straight swap. You will like the EJ25 in it. Maybe if time and cash allows, go for some delta cams...it opens it up a bit, and actually improves MPG rating. Because the driver side has the hash marks for the cam sensor pick up signal.

Hey all, Not sure if this goes here...mods feel free to move. I am opening my "suby shop" for the summer. Many members on this board can vouch for my work. I am usually about half of what the dealership or independents shops want for repairs. My specialty is head gaskets, and timing belts....but I do everything else as well. I can do everything from mild to wild....custom work, not a problem. I am/was a professional technician and have about 20 years of experience working on cars in general. The last 9 have been solely on subies. Better catch me why you can, and take advantage of economical repairs, done right, and done to above and beyond factory specs, because when school starts again and I have eager, future little auto techs to teach, the shop will be closed for bit. So if you're living in or around the Spokane Wa area, PM me and we can discuss the details of your suby repair needs. Thanks for you consideration. Mugs

Your link doesn't work....sounds like you had a fun time.

^^^^Bummer about the NY thing as well.I know for both for Suberdave and myself we both are auto tech instructors and suby lovers/owners. It would have been fun to participate in something like this.

I hear what your saying. From the experience I have had with Frankein motors thus far, a tune was not nesc. True it may have provided a bit more oomph but the thing rocked from the start. It was a 2003 2.5 block and 97 2.2 roller heads, with delta 1100 cams. Ran off of regular 87 octane gas and went like a bat out of hell, on a super lifted 97 Imp wgn owned by a member here. Who knows what the MPG was...he could never stay out of the throttle, I can't either. But on a road trip it is easier to be nice. I intend on using the intake it comes with, in order to keep the wiring the same. I will more then likely polish the head, and intake before assembly as well. I have read/heard that a EJ25 with just the cams and then tuned makes a great runner w/o all the hassle of some of the bigger builds...something to think about there as well. Plus I think the intake are the same for the 22/25 up till 2000 just the wiring is different...I could be wrong though. Too much work..don't want to mess with all that wiring upgrade and what not. Just looking for a simple plug and play type rig...It would be fun though.

Ok, so I will be getting a suby here in the near future (bout time..been w/o for a year.) I am hoping to find one in need of repair. I have decided on a 1997-2001 IMP OTB Wagon. Would prefer auto but don't care as long as it has A/C and Cruise. I will be using it as a DD and commuting back and forth from Seattle to Spokane on a regular basis. In conjunction with using it for my outdoor hobbies, of backpacking, snowboarding, and kayaking. So I am playing around with the different engine mods and plan on giving it a "new" suspension. I am looking for what you all think would be the best situation for my style of driving conditions. Please don't base your input on what would be cool, but what you know would be a good combination and works well. MPG VS HP or a decent combo of both. YES I have all the different platforms already, to build any one of these given scenarios. So its just a matter of assembly. So here is the platform: 97-2001 IMP OTB Sport wagon Forester struts OTB lift blocks (factory) Forester 15in rims (or OTB) 195/75/15 (or slightly larger what ever will fit the best) UEL headers for what ever configuration and cat back exhaust (may run a different cat as well) Different Engine scenarios. Stock EJ22 (just drive it) EJ22 with delta torque cams (a little more pep) SOHC EJ25 Stock (do a transplant on it) SOHC EJ25 w/ delta torque cams EJ25/22 Frankein Motor EJ25/22 Franken Motor w/ delta torque cams So let the ideas come forth. Thank you all for your input.

Don't you dare dude. You already got a "buggy" to cut into five pieces in the form of a bad rump roast truck. Keep this true to its form...well as much as you can anyways, as I am sure it has already started changing shape in one way or another.

Ya its not a matter of, if chevy fuel pumps fail..its when. Sorta like our head gaskets. I cant count how many chevy fp I have replaced. And I'm a chevy guy, so its not like I'm doggin them or anything. Nice call on the data stream though.

Sweet...but did ya have to with the cali bug eye front..I don't know why but the lights in the nose thing never apealed to me. I have always wanted to do that to a baja. I had a 69 baja (it was my first car) and still wish I ad it to be able to do soemthing like this to it. MIne had the lights in the fender style baja kit.

I gotta get down there and add some "mugginess" to it. Its lookin great man.

Keep bugging him. Show up with what you think is a fair price I.E. 1000 bucks.....have it all in 20's. Have 800 of it already in a stack and wave it in front of him. I have gotten quite a few cars that way.

Hey that was fun to watch. Thanks for the "new" suby site to watch as well. I tell ya I am about this close "" to getting into rally. But its always a toss up. Build HotRod or build a rally car...so far the HR is winning.

Or just done the 4.3 Vortec swap and call it a day. Plenty of stuff out there for that, and very common..... But wait its you, and your gotta do the strange and impossible to show everyone its can be done, and to shut the hell up, quite being a key board fabber and get out there and try it

Where did all you pics go. Its-a-sayin you deleted them??????? I want to have a looky see.

05 STI...then go from there. Or 2000 RS 2 door coupe, with a 05 STI swap.

MILLER End of discussion. You get what you pay for, and if your gonna pay it better be a MILLER

By snorkus do you mean aftermarket air intake system...ya know the "cold air" ones we see on all the car that are riced out? I seem to remember having this problem with a freiken build I did. We just put the stock air intake system on, but then highly modified it.

Glad I wasn't the only one yelling at the T.V. :-p

Your at 26:00 min. Wish we could embed on this forum, but I have yet to figure out how, I can on others that are laid out the same, but not this one, who knows. I found it interesting that the guy filming sounds just like "Red Green" From the Red Green Show, you'll hear him talk at the beginning, then I fast forwarded until I saw your buggy. Your mud lanes were very shallow and dry from what I could tell.

Hope they used metal OEM or at least OEM style gaskets for the heads, and the H2O pump. I always have the heads machined no matter what..its good insurance on my behalf and my reputation at stake.

What you are describing is exactly what my 96 lego wagon was doing. I pulled the timing covers off to see if something was going on in there, and found that my (as described by other posters in this thread) keyway was worn and hogged out my crank and crank gear. So it was "in time" sometime and then would shift out of "time" as well. My crank key slot was so toast that I would have had to split the case and take the crank and have a machinist fix it or just put in a new crank. I bought a used engine from the wrecking yard for 500 bucks, threw a timing belt kit at and called it a day. That was 6 years and about 80k ago...haven't had a problem since.