Mugs

I think your wrong...the STI stamping on the tail pipe is an instant 30 extra horse right there...bumping from a 2.5in to a 3.0in exhaust is another 20, so there's 50 extra just from the exhaust change, on top of that the frekien motor build that's another 45...so if it came stock with 160 (2.5 block) and you add the 95 total in up grades, that comes out to about 255HP total output. Ya that sounds about right....

Defintly not ugly.... she's right dead sexy....dead sexy I tell ya. sexy.

Yes it was quite a nerve racking few minutes..."I hope this thing doesn't blow" but once the break-in was done...the nerves were more at rest...Hell I was glad/relieved to just hear it start. Now If I can just figure out how to adjust valves I think "we" may be off about .001 (as per monstaru diagnosis) which means the factory specs are out not quite accurate for the cams/hypo motor. Other than that the thing is screamer

Makes sense....I was just concerned about the holes being too big and the bolts too small...I was afraid of fly wheel slippage/hole hogging...When I pull the motor (next month) I'll do the swap, as I have an EA82 flywheel just laying around.

The oil pump is driven be the crank...as in it slides over the crank...then the crank seal, then the crank gear and next timing components... You prime these engines (and other Japanese engines) by disconnecting the coil and pulling the fuel pump fuse, and then crank until the oil light goes out. Re connect then start and run. I think his concern is, he has basically built a "new" motor. 2.5 block with 2.2 heads and a Delta 200 grind, new timing components, etc. So there is some concern about a fresh start up with the coolant not being purged and nothing else really broken in as well, to just start it up and hit 1500-2000 RPM right out the gate for 15 minutes...but that is what the directions Delta gave...just a little nerve racking, I imagine. Dang you Chux...I was still writing when you posted....

I had to space out my EA81 starter because it would stay engaged in the fly wheel teeth other wise. I used the EA81 Flywheel because the EA82 fly wheel has bigger holes and the the EA82 bolts are to big to fit in the EA81 Crank... I used the EA82 clutch, Pressure Plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch fork...on the EA81 fly wheel....no machining was needed...been driving it for a 8 months now...no issues. I did not have to use the Jerry's custom brackets...I used two of the driver side mounting brakets...just drilled the one out to fit the hole placement for the passenger side. (I am pretty sure it was the drivers side I used for both...I will need to check.) I did not have to replace the clutch cable either. This conversion was done on my 86 BRAT EA81 HLA engine

Here's a link to a previous discussion. Also this calculator may help as well.

HOLY CRAP !!!!!! $733.00 for rebuilt heads....what the hell did they use...gold I just had heads done for a Frankein motor and it was 150 for both...new valve stem seals, 3 way valve grind, and machine surface....Even w/o my discount the public only gets charged a bit more...even if it is a hundred buck more (which its not) 733 is outrageous. You better use the OEM 2.5 Head gaskets otherwise your going to have a problem. And depending how much compression you want will depend if you use the single or double layer gasket.

The only time I ever get 300 to a tank is when I am on a road trip...in town its about 220-240 96 Lego Wagon, auto, EJ22. So what your getting is pretty good.... Plus it is now winter...which means more Ethanol in the fuel...equals less MPG.

I have seen this this situation from an inexperienced at home timing belt job..They did not have the tools to properly torque down the crank pulley. Pulley loosened up just enough to allow the crank gear to start hogging out the key way on the crank. Which also hogged out the key way on the crank pulley. So this moved the crank gear out of spec, thus causing multiple miss fires on on the cylinders because it was out of time all together. Unfortunately the crank was so hogged out the engine had to be replaced. I remember looking at the crank pulley when I first started diaging it and thought to myself...man that thing is sure bouncing around a lot...it was way out of round/balance...you may want to check that. Crank pulley being what your drive belts for the alternator A/C power steering are hooked up to.

WEBER....WEBER....WEBER By the time you buy the carb kit and spend a month trying to figure out the placement of the scream intake valve that hooks to the giggly switch, and still doesn't run right and is under powered. You could have bought a Weber and be zinging down the street.

Um no you don't...I am surprised no one has chimed in on this part. It is very doable with some know how and some basic tools. Who ever is telling you all this crap is feeding you a line and is trying to put a steak on their plate instead of just a hamburger. And the popping noise could very well be ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, sway bay end links, worn out compliance bushings, or other bushings. Not saying it is all of these at the same time, just some possibilities.

Or you can just buy one off the Mac tool truck for 30 bucks...It is actually designated for Honda heads, but it works for any 14mm 12 point head bolt style. It more then likely won't work for on car head assembly, but it sure makes ease of out of engine bay head work. Then again I have the luxury of seeing the tool truck every week. Here's a pic....except its 10mm Pat on the back none the less.

Lookin good man. And I vote yes on trying out the rear diff. If you don't like it I know someone who will (wink, wink) Can't wait to see the lights all mounted up, she's gonna be killer.

I have run into this problem with it being the clutch disc itself. I remember a customer brought me their own parts (after thinking they could do the job themselves) and it was a NAPA clutch kit. I tired for a half day trying to get that thing in...it would go in and then just stop. What was happening was there was some sort of casting flaw and so the tranny would only slide half way onto the clutch disc and then stop. I discovered this only after I took the tranny completely out to make sure everything was in proper working order and everything would line up. I just took a small "jewelers" file and filed down the burs in the casting and did that until the clutch disc would freely slide on and off the tranny splines. Just go to show (IMO) why I never get parts from NAPA...I have always been burned by there stuff. But then again it is my own experience and this is meant to start a "whose a better parts store" war.

OH come one.....why you gonna be bogartin' like that yo. :cool:

Thats why you sleep in a Hammock like me....Once you do that you'll never sleep on the ground again. I even do it in the winter time

I can tell you this right now. If you have been driving around with water in your crank case...you just took out your main bearings and toasted the engine...Even if you change the oil you will soon start to hear a knock. The water prevents the oil from creating the viscous layer between rod and crank, crank and case...thus your metal on metal....Looks like some more work for me Ok no more thread jack deviation..you all have fun.

Re-read pages 5-7 of this thread and you'll see what I am talking about. Although I am sure it is not an unfamiliar scene within this area...especially "over there" Subies in the woods, the sound of gunshots going off and a bunch of inebriated, and or slightly buzzed hootin an hollerin going on.

You can buy a new one for less then that. We have a great shop here. I will get the number tomorrow for ya. That being said...weber's are not that hard to re-build. I bet if you have any form of mechanical know how you could DIY.

Snow pack is still very prominent...but my friend and I are still gonna head into a place we know where the snow is melted out already. Plus alcohol, guns and the nature how the conversation has been going is enough to keep me away. Sounds a little too red neck, sounds a little too Idaho.

I would have left it as a J E E P but thats just me. Especially since I thought about doing the same thing sorta..I was gonna put an 85-94 EA82 body on my 87 Toyota 4 x4 PU. But leave everything yota on it. I have decided not to keep the yota so now it will go up for sale.

Uh Oh it sounds like the HG's

Ya well if people don't pull their heads out...There wont be a "show/meet" next year. It was an epic fail this year in my book. I was very disappointed to drive 5 hours to see 4 BRAT's I can drive 10 minutes to Pull and Save if I want to do that Just my opinion.