afterbang

I have a garage kept, one-owner 84 GL with 50k on it and it looks brand new still. Have had a few issues with it from it sitting for so long. Wheel bearings was the main thing, but suspension was the other area that needed to be addressed. I searched for quite a while for KYB front struts and replaced the rears as well. Also, new radius rod and control arm bushings help tremendously. There are some front struts on clearance on RockAuto that are Monroe brand and are marked for use on wagons. I bought some bc they were cheap and to my surprise, they are Japanese manufactured and look exactly like the KYBs, just painted blue. I believe they must have just subcontracted them to make them for Monroe. I would try those.

Buy Subaru part number 44022GA340. They are exhaust manifold gaskets for EA82T cars and they are by far the best sealing gasket I have found and are very thin and pressed steel.

Loyale 2.7 Turbo, I can get Mahle brand lifters, which are probably of Japanese origin, and my wholesale cost through the Subaru shop I work for is $30 USD/ea. You're welcome to buy them at that price if you need some. Just let me know. My email is matt@superiorsoobie.com

double post

Todd, if I gave you those part numbers for the door seals I needed, would you look for them and possibly buy them to resell to me? I've looked everywhere for these things with no luck at all. I would be happy to pay you for your efforts and time. - Matt

As long as you have the vent hose to the filler neck hooked up and no return going back to the tank, you'll be fine to just run the supply to the pump and that's it.

I have two 84 GL wagons, one is completely stock and untouched w/ only 54k. my other has 220k, is completely rebuilt with EA82 pistons, a weber, and I pretty much replaced/upgraded every part on that car. The one I built myself is a daily and I chose a hydro motor to build it, even with the power upgrades I've made, bc the yearly valve adjustment is annoying and the hydro engines run quieter. With the hydro lifters, this wagon still feels like a rocket ship compared to my stock one. I would run the hydro lifters, get a Weber, slap a new oil pump on, and just drive it.

I would give a kidney for a source for new door window seals for my GL wagon. I've been able to find one NOS R/L seal, but that is it. Anyone care to give some direction on who I could approach to make me some? I have parts cars that I could pull used ones out of for templates, but don't really know where to go from there. Thank you!

I've done HGs in the car a few times, just for the experience. Last one was an EJ22 in an OBW bc I had more room to work. It's definitely not worth it. Head bolts have to come out and go back in while pushed halfway through the head. It's just a messier process to surface prep, install, everything. Our shop resurfaces heads that aren't in too bad of shape by resurfacing them on glass with sandpaper. I'm pretty sure that technique was first posted on here from my boss doing it. Personally, we use the STI head gasket for N/A applications and have never had a comeback for an external head gasket leak.

The EJ22 will work just fine in your 98 Outback, but you'll need to use the exhaust manifold from the Legacy. A 98 EJ22 has single port exhaust and the EJ25 is dual port. You'll also need to properly plumb the EVAP system to avoid a check engine light. The EJ22 you have has EGR, so that will not be an issue. Because the 98 EJ22 is an interference design, I would replace timing components/WP, install new viton cam/crank seals, replace the cam support and cam thrust plate o-ring, and replace valve cover gaskets before installing. You'll also want to upgrade the rear separator plate on the back of the engine to the new stamped steel plate. If it has never been changed, you cannot miss the big plastic plate behind the flex plate on the engine. You'll be installing the flywheel from the EJ25D, so you're right there. The separator plate bolts on the plastic ones are usually not too tight from expansion/contraction of the plastic, but a whack with an impact driver will get them loose. Also, you should replace the o-ring that seals the wrist pin access plate at the back of the engine as well. Buy yourself an Exedy clutch kit, have the flywheel resurfaced, and clean the clutch fork and pivot ball well before reinstallation. Some scotchbright action to the snout or quill of the transmission (what the throw out bearing rides on) will clean things up before you reinstall the clutch fork. Lubricate the quill, the pivot ball, and the divet for where the slave cylinder actuates the fork for silky smooth operation. All of the steps I have mentioned are individually covered if you search on here, but know that what you're doing is not terribly difficult.

Subaru of America still has quite a few front windshield seals and rear wagon glass seals are still being made. I have been able to buy both and I purchased one more of each on Friday. Hatch seals are no more and I need two of them. The wagon rear glass seals show on backorder, but it was the same deal when I ordered it the first time. I think they are just being sent from Japan when someone orders one. This has been the case on numerous parts I've ordered for my 84.

Unless it isn't stock, it'll be 2.25"

I have many core motors lying around our shop and if you really need a tensioner bracket for the one-piece tensioner, I could sell one for $30 plus shipping from Portland, OR. I don't check USMB regularly, so if you wanted one you can email me at matt (at) superiorsoobie (dot) com

Aisin makes the OEM tensioner for Subaru. Buy the tensioner under the Aisin brand if you want to save money. Tensioner you will receive will have the Fuji Heavy Industries logo and "Japan" stamped into it. Same as dealer.

"791028080 - door molding (not sure if number is accurate)" "791028070 - door moulding (not sure if number is accurate)" the door moulding numbers i copied and pasted above are correct. i accidentally posted the same number in an earlier post, but what you listed is right. now that i know you are just talking about door moulding, i will recheck the book for the "moulding in front of rear tire"... also, if you want to email me, i can just send you pictures out of the parts manual. matt (at) superiorsoobie (dot) com