afterbang

I have a garage kept, one-owner 84 GL with 50k on it and it looks brand new still. Have had a few issues with it from it sitting for so long. Wheel bearings was the main thing, but suspension was the other area that needed to be addressed. I searched for quite a while for KYB front struts and replaced the rears as well. Also, new radius rod and control arm bushings help tremendously. There are some front struts on clearance on RockAuto that are Monroe brand and are marked for use on wagons. I bought some bc they were cheap and to my surprise, they are Japanese manufactured and look exactly like the KYBs, just painted blue. I believe they must have just subcontracted them to make them for Monroe. I would try those.

Buy Subaru part number 44022GA340. They are exhaust manifold gaskets for EA82T cars and they are by far the best sealing gasket I have found and are very thin and pressed steel.

Loyale 2.7 Turbo, I can get Mahle brand lifters, which are probably of Japanese origin, and my wholesale cost through the Subaru shop I work for is $30 USD/ea. You're welcome to buy them at that price if you need some. Just let me know. My email is matt@superiorsoobie.com

double post

Todd, if I gave you those part numbers for the door seals I needed, would you look for them and possibly buy them to resell to me? I've looked everywhere for these things with no luck at all. I would be happy to pay you for your efforts and time. - Matt

As long as you have the vent hose to the filler neck hooked up and no return going back to the tank, you'll be fine to just run the supply to the pump and that's it.

I have two 84 GL wagons, one is completely stock and untouched w/ only 54k. my other has 220k, is completely rebuilt with EA82 pistons, a weber, and I pretty much replaced/upgraded every part on that car. The one I built myself is a daily and I chose a hydro motor to build it, even with the power upgrades I've made, bc the yearly valve adjustment is annoying and the hydro engines run quieter. With the hydro lifters, this wagon still feels like a rocket ship compared to my stock one. I would run the hydro lifters, get a Weber, slap a new oil pump on, and just drive it.

I would give a kidney for a source for new door window seals for my GL wagon. I've been able to find one NOS R/L seal, but that is it. Anyone care to give some direction on who I could approach to make me some? I have parts cars that I could pull used ones out of for templates, but don't really know where to go from there. Thank you!

I've done HGs in the car a few times, just for the experience. Last one was an EJ22 in an OBW bc I had more room to work. It's definitely not worth it. Head bolts have to come out and go back in while pushed halfway through the head. It's just a messier process to surface prep, install, everything. Our shop resurfaces heads that aren't in too bad of shape by resurfacing them on glass with sandpaper. I'm pretty sure that technique was first posted on here from my boss doing it. Personally, we use the STI head gasket for N/A applications and have never had a comeback for an external head gasket leak.

The EJ22 will work just fine in your 98 Outback, but you'll need to use the exhaust manifold from the Legacy. A 98 EJ22 has single port exhaust and the EJ25 is dual port. You'll also need to properly plumb the EVAP system to avoid a check engine light. The EJ22 you have has EGR, so that will not be an issue. Because the 98 EJ22 is an interference design, I would replace timing components/WP, install new viton cam/crank seals, replace the cam support and cam thrust plate o-ring, and replace valve cover gaskets before installing. You'll also want to upgrade the rear separator plate on the back of the engine to the new stamped steel plate. If it has never been changed, you cannot miss the big plastic plate behind the flex plate on the engine. You'll be installing the flywheel from the EJ25D, so you're right there. The separator plate bolts on the plastic ones are usually not too tight from expansion/contraction of the plastic, but a whack with an impact driver will get them loose. Also, you should replace the o-ring that seals the wrist pin access plate at the back of the engine as well. Buy yourself an Exedy clutch kit, have the flywheel resurfaced, and clean the clutch fork and pivot ball well before reinstallation. Some scotchbright action to the snout or quill of the transmission (what the throw out bearing rides on) will clean things up before you reinstall the clutch fork. Lubricate the quill, the pivot ball, and the divet for where the slave cylinder actuates the fork for silky smooth operation. All of the steps I have mentioned are individually covered if you search on here, but know that what you're doing is not terribly difficult.

Subaru of America still has quite a few front windshield seals and rear wagon glass seals are still being made. I have been able to buy both and I purchased one more of each on Friday. Hatch seals are no more and I need two of them. The wagon rear glass seals show on backorder, but it was the same deal when I ordered it the first time. I think they are just being sent from Japan when someone orders one. This has been the case on numerous parts I've ordered for my 84.

Unless it isn't stock, it'll be 2.25"

I have many core motors lying around our shop and if you really need a tensioner bracket for the one-piece tensioner, I could sell one for $30 plus shipping from Portland, OR. I don't check USMB regularly, so if you wanted one you can email me at matt (at) superiorsoobie (dot) com

Aisin makes the OEM tensioner for Subaru. Buy the tensioner under the Aisin brand if you want to save money. Tensioner you will receive will have the Fuji Heavy Industries logo and "Japan" stamped into it. Same as dealer.

"791028080 - door molding (not sure if number is accurate)" "791028070 - door moulding (not sure if number is accurate)" the door moulding numbers i copied and pasted above are correct. i accidentally posted the same number in an earlier post, but what you listed is right. now that i know you are just talking about door moulding, i will recheck the book for the "moulding in front of rear tire"... also, if you want to email me, i can just send you pictures out of the parts manual. matt (at) superiorsoobie (dot) com

this is matt. i just got that rear hatch and head light bucket from you. thanks again for the parts, they both were in great shape. i believe these numbers are correct, but the parts diagram is kind of hard to decipher since it just shows the piece of glass and surrounding components. 762711180 RH 762711190 LH

If you happen to need anything else, feel free to let me know. People would be very surprised if they knew how much there is still left for these cars and how cheap some of it is. I regularly see people paying way too much for used parts when they could get it new for less.

Mudflaps are: 791022330 791022340 You will need 4 of the plastic/clip nuts which are 791029030 791028070 is the door moulding for the RH side and 791028070 for the LH

No problem. I reread your post and I saw that you were probably asking for the part numbers for the "step assembly", which has that cover with the 4WD logo. The covers are obsolete, but part numbers are: 791044030 RH 791044100 LH Step assemblies are obsolete but are: 791081000 791081020

I can tell you now that the door moldings, what Subaru calls the upper splash guards, are gone. The rear mud flaps are available, as I just bought two new ones

Hi subarubrat. I work at a Subaru shop that does tons of business with our local dealer and they gave me the1983-1984 complete parts manual to borrow indefinitely while I restore my two 84 wagons. A lot of parts are still available for these cars, you just have to have a competent person in the parts department to look them up for you. I will look through your post here and look up part numbers as I have time.

No problems at all with the Mitsuboshi belts. As was mentioned by Fairtax, I was referring to the cheapest kits that didn't have an upgraded belt or water pump. If I remember correctly, there were 3 levels of kits from Mizumo. All GMB idlers/tensioner and no-name belt, GMB stuff and Mitsuboshi belt, and GMB stuff w/ Mitsuboshi belt/Aisin water pump. Only other issues I've seen related to the cheap eBay parts are the generic, one-piece tensioners failing prematurely. When I was a broke college student I installed one of the non-NTN tensioners on my wife's 03 Legacy. The tensioner failed, started knocking and the belt skipped 2 teeth. Since then, we've also had a few new customers come in thinking their bottom-end was toast from the knocking when it really was just a cheap tensioner installed from a previous shop flopping against the tensioner bracket. 1 Lucky Texan, I'll be sure to let Rick know you say hello. We've been non-stop busy since Rick bought the bigger shop, so there just hasn't been much time to do anything else other than try to keep up with the work load.

I remember 5 or so years ago, before Gates kits were dirt cheap, many on here were buying those Mizumo Auto t-belt kits off eBay. Many purchased the kits with the Mitsuboshi belts, so if you did, this doesn't concern you. Anyways, I have now seen 3 of the generic belts that came with those kits fail at around 50k and caught a forth one today that is on the brink of failing. I run a Subaru repair shop with Rick Cropper, who went by GeneralDisorder when he still posted on here. He did a lot of work in his garage for people that didn't have much money before we started our current business. A handful of those people purchased and brought those kits to have them installed by him. Fast forward to today, while replacing a trunk seal in a 98 Legacy that got one of those belts years ago, I happened to pull the outer t-belt cover since I knew it may have had one of those kits installed by the previous owner before this woman bought the car. It is now booked to have the belt and all other timing components replaced in the morning bc the belt is cracked at every rib. Two 90-94 legacy models, a 97 Impreza (bent 4 valves), and now a 98 legacy have all shown premature belt failures from those kits. If you installed one (especially if you have an interference engine) I would in the least check the belt. - Matt

I work on Subarus professionally and have the equipment at work, so I will be pulling a vacuum and using a manifold gauge set while refrigerent is added using a scale. But that is only bc I have these things available to me. My boss, is Rick (GeneralDisorder) and he's been pretty adamant about replacing the receiver drier, but I also agree with you that it's not like I had the system opened for any long period of time. I just don't want to replace a good working part with something inferior and the $12 receiver drier I found on Amazon wasn't the most confidence inspiring .

I need to replace both the A/C suction and discharge hoses on my wife's 2003 Legacy. The 00-04 year range seem to have had issues with the crimps failing on the hoses and while I've known they've been slightly leaking oil out for a while, I've put it off and now the system isn't blowing cold anymore and the last recharge I did, even with replacing o-rings, lasted only 6 months. I am fully able and have the equipment to replace these hoses and recharge the system, but since the system has potentially been exposed to atmosphere, I would like to replace the receiver/dryer as well. Only problem is, the dealer retail on one is over $300. Does anyone here happen to have any experience with the cheap aftermarket ones that cost less than $20? This is not the way I usually like to handle repairs, but even at wholesale, the prices of both hoses I need is already like $250. Since the system wasn't actually ever opened, maybe I can get away with not replacing the receiver/dryer? My boss at the shop I work at says to just buy the cheap receiver/dryer and use dealer o-rings, but I have had a few Subarus where the A/C was non-functional from dried/cracked o-rings for long periods of time and just swapping them out and recharging the system did the trick with no ill effects. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.