afterbang

very nice score there. i would take the legacy and give your kid the loyale

the SERPENTINE belt, not timing belt.

close family friend replaced this with a brand new BMW so my wife and I took it off her hands as our new kid hauler. it needs the serpentine belt tensioner bearings replaced and some new tires and that's it. one owner, 125k of highway miles from being driven from portland to ashland almost weekly. Hers: His:

Oh and one more thing. I read that the '06 took "premium" fuel and the previous owner never used it. Any concerns?

Hey everyone, or more specifically, H6 owners So, a family friend has her kids all driving and is selling my family her 2006 Tribeca for a ridiculously good deal to help us and to replace the wife's 93 legacy with something bigger and more luxurious. It's one owner and has exactly 125,000 miles of highway miles. It wouldn't be our first choice because the low MPGs but its an absolute blessing that we have this opportunity and the car is the limited model with the DVD for the kiddos! Could someone give us some advice on what service/maintenance should be done when we get it? From what I understand the water pump is good for 225k? It's had spark plugs and oil changes and that's about it. Any insight on common issues with these would be appreciated as well. I've owned ea82s, ej25s, and ej22s and I honestly have no idea what the EZ30s are all about. Thanks in advance! -Matt

It's not like a headlight bulb socket, it's like a pigtail that extends from the cover of the back of the light. Was hoping there was a product that I could insert the cut wires into with a both male and female side so I am able to change the bulbs. Thanks.

So this is my situation. I have a 98 outback and I had a Legacy GT bumper painted grey to match and installed it. For years, I just had the little plastic insert things instead of the square fog lights. I scored a really nice pair of stock GT foglights but the connector from the Outback fogs doesn't fit into the connector on the GT fogs. So yeah, is there a type of universal connector that I can purchase and just cut the two ends off and use an aftermarket connector to wire these up to the stock wiring? I hope this makes sense to someone! Thanks you guys!

I had to replace the slave cylinder on my 98 outback with GD and it definitely took both of us to do it right but it went fairly quickly. Rick disconnected the pushrod to the clutch from the pedal and manually pushed it in with his hand because pushing the pedal in doesn't fully compress it. I was actually not strong enough to push it all the way with my hand so he pushed it in while I opened and closed the bleeder valve. You might want to PM him on it but after he did this, my clutch felt the best it had in the 8 years I've owned my car.

the center garnish is really easy. just take the wiper motor cover off for the center bolts if you have a rear wiper. the sides are a bit of a pain. you have to remove the plastic trim at the bottom of the rear window that starts at the strut tower to get to two of the nuts. remove the storage box on the passenger side to get to the nut furthest back. on both sides you just cut a slit into the rubber sheeting behind the interior for that last nut. you also have to use a heat gun or blow dryer to heat up the side lights because they are sealed with butyl rubber. took about 2 hours for me to figure it out. you also have to make sure you heat the rubber up on the replacement lights and patch any missing spots so water doesn't leak in. if you want to get a set i can get you in contact with a guy ive been getting parts from in new zealand. they aren't cheap but they sure do look better than the yellow and red, in my opinion. i also installed some side marker lights with the clear lenses. they look pretty cool as well and take like 30 minutes to wire and install.

i was so stoked on how it turned out that i just wanted to share with everyone. installed the jdm taillights and then debadged the rear end. had to add the chrome subaru logo to cover the holes from where the legacy badge was. i know it doesn't really add anything insightful but i just am loving how clean i think it looks!

thanks so much for your quick replies, that is one hefty post on knock sensors there. much appreciated. im guessing you guys are up sitting at the computer watching the news?

hey everyone. 98 legacy outback 2.5 MT. had a check engine light come on, read the code and it came up as a knock sensor problem. i got this same code over a year ago and i just loosened the bolt on the sensor, retightened it and it stayed away. now the light is intermittently coming on and off. car is running as it normally does and it's not making any "knocks" from what is audible to me. i am guessing just change the sensor? i read in the archives that it could either be the sensor going out or a detonation problem. would i be able to notice or hear a problem if there was an issue? any danger in not changing it out right away? can i expect the same alleviation of my symptoms if i go with a generic over a genuine part? as always, thank you so much for your knowledge.

guess that idea didn't pan out looks very sharp. love the jdm tails and rs hood. i'm installing some jdm tail lights on my legacy wagon tomorrow. they really clean things up.

thank you so much!

tires are balanced and on there tight. i'm religious about rotating them too. i think it may be the left cv joint. i just noticed today if you listen carefully you can hear it click when you go over speed bumps at an angle. yes, it is a cheap aftermarket axle on there. any recommendations on brands of axles other than oem?

98 legacy outback, 160k 5MT. it started out with a very intermittent problem of what felt like a shuddering coming from the front driver's side when accelerating from a stop. this would last for about 3 seconds max. this ended up going away but lately there is a high tempo constant shaking in the steering wheel when accelerating up hills. it's a very light vibration but it definitely wasn't there before and only started after the few times i had the heavier what i would call shuddering. this is not clutch shudder as i lived with that until my clutch was last replaced. you don't feel it in the seat, just in the steering. this doesn't happen when just crusing, only under load. trying to be as descriptive as i can with it. front axles have 40k on them. struts have never been replaced. any insight on what i should be looking into? thanks in advance.

if you're pedal is sticking to the floor and you need a new slave cylinder, let me know. i have a brand new oem one that i'd let go for cheap. good luck with your troubles.

you can get an ej22 that is for a manual. you just need to install the flex plate from your old engine in place of the flywheel. however you will need the egr valve but hopefully that helps a bit in widening your search!

i think people just get bummed when others trash on their cars. i have a 98 legacy outback that has had the HGs replaced some 80k miles ago. i've had the thing for 7 years and love it but i'm already keeping an eye out for the right low mileage ej22 to have just if it is time to call it quits on the EJ25D. i have faith in the upgraded head gasket design but i'm definitely not putting one back in there if something goes wrong. i know of someone that has over 300k on a 98 forester that had the HGs replaced once but that may just be an anomoly... or a well cared for car.

if the driver side head doesn't have the port for the egr valve pipe you still have a problem. having the correct intake manifold won't do you any good if you don't have the correct heads to thread the pipe that feeds the valve. you either need to find an engine that has a preexisting port or drill out the head and tap threads into the spot. read this thread to see what you're going to get yourself into if you don't get the correct engine. i've been here before because i made the same mistake you're potentially going to. http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/technical-diy-write-ups/142730-diy-jdm-ej25-egr-port-drill-tap.html

no. sounds like you have wrx taste on a beat to ************ impreza budget.

i just reread what i posted... i must have been tired or something and im surprised no one has called me out on it. when i was talking about the generations of the outback, i posted information about the generations of the legacys in general. sorry, i own a 1st and 2nd gen legacy and the 2nd gen happens to be a legacy outback so that's what i was going off of. 1st gen legacy outback 1995-1999. 1995 is a legacy L dressed like an outback. by 2nd gen, you mean 2000-2004. that is going to be a sohc phase II ej25. those are the ones that leak from the head gasket. the 2005 is a single overhead cam as well. from what i understand, the service bulletin for the head gasket problem affected 1999-2002 model phase II engines but they ended up recommending the conditioner for 03 and 04 as well. google search "subaru wwp-99" to read the service bulletin yourself. i know it's confusing. the first outbacks were just a trim option available to the legacy. it became it's own standalone model separate from the legacy in 2000. sorry for the mistake. i swear my intentions were only good!

I have a 2nd gen outback and I like it more aesthetically but mechanically you're better off getting a 3rd gen. Preferably one that has had the head gaskets replaced. The HGs weap fluid on the phase II ej25 but you can still drive it and pour in some coolant "conditioner" that may slow the leak. In a phase I ej25, when the gasket fails it's time to drop some bills if you aren't mechanically capable to do the repair yourself. I'm sure you can find an older 2nd gen Outback that has had the headgaskets replaced but the engine may have been abused prior to their replacement. With $6500 you could afford to buy a newer one private party without a problem. Phase I = DOHC ej25. Automatic 96 outbacks and all 97-99 ones. Same with 2.5GT Legacys

the body on that loyale looks so clean. congrats on the legacy, you won't miss that ea82 one bit.

the "super" blue coolant should not be mixed with any other type of coolant. you could always try ordering some off the internet if you don't want to make the drive to get it. goto any online subaru parts website and search for part #: SOA868V9270