discopotato03

The person who did this manifolds install and also again when this engine went in . I was just looking at it and I cant see why it couldn't be lifted off once the 6 manifold to head bolts are removed . The reason I'm asking is because I wanted to know if there was anything unforseen before I tried to remove it . You've answered my question so thank you muchly . Cheers Adrian in Oz .

Firstly my Spider is modified to take the std TB off an 86 RX L Series , had to be this way to get around the early twin switch TPS . I need to get the inlet manifold off complete so I can look down the inlet ports and see how carbon removed by that evil SUEC is holding my valves open robbing my engines compression . Anyway I'm told spiders cannot be removed or replaced complete with the engine insitu . We don't have easy access to spiders unique gaskets here in Australia and if there a reason why spiders have to be removed or replaced in layers I'd like to know why . I suspect its the inner bolt on each head but not tried to remove/replace yet . Please don't ask about my compression woes because all I'm interested in is getting the complete inlet off the heads so we can see inside the inlet ports . This was a properly rebuilt 40K old Vortex EA82T engine BTW . Cheers A .

I have been told its not possible to remove a spider inlet manifold complete from an EA82T . People say that it has to be taken off in its three layers , if thats the case why ? It seems possible at a glance to get at each inlet ports 3 bolts and the vacum hoses so whats the supposed dramas ? Cheers A .

Since I posted I did a compression test and they range from 12 1/2 to 55 pounds . I find it very hard to believe than 1 can of SUEC would cause valve guides to immediately move holding valves open . Hard to imagine any crud would get past the top rings in a 40K old engine . PCV is out and cleaned though it worked fine anyway . With the cranking compression so low something must be stopping the valves from seating . A .

I'm not worried about the turbo , it sits up above the almost equal length stainless header and the Ni Resist housing and Inconel turbine won't be affected by carby cleaner . The advantage of that stuff is it evaporates completely away leaving no residue - other than anything it tried to disolve . I wouldn't obviously put this cleaner through the cold side of the turbo , more effective I reckon into the Spider manifolds plenum via its vacuum hose fittings . Anyway cranked 1 1/2 cans of TB&C cleaner through and its sounds like compression may be coming up on a couple of pots , almost tried to fire a couple of times . Starter and solenoid got a bit warm and battery voltage falling so back on charge and will have another go later . Yeah sometimes people fall below the radar for various reasons . The experienced mechanics are scratching their heads with this problem because this situation is new to them . Most think that you never spray Subaru UEC into an engine that isn't running and the revs have to be right up when you do . A .

My engine was properly rebuilt ~ 40K miles ago so rings should be good . Will check the lifters now that the RHS cam cover is off . I would have thought that lifters would bleed down eventually given that aside from cranking this thing has run for almost two weeks . Current advise from engine builder is to crank Throttlebody and carby cleaner through the thing (SUEC style) and try and free it up . I have to try something because this car is on limited time with me and I'm not pulling heads etc out to fix this . A .

The trouble is this engine won't fire any of its cylinders , not a cough or anything . Also this is an 86 model RX sedan meanig it has the early "flap" type air flow meter . I suspect it had a lot of carbon on the valves and since valve stems lean downhill in an EA82 I think the SUEC ran down the stems and with softened carbon glued things up . Did this to one or other valve in every cylinder . A .

The tail of woe is I put a can of Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner through my EA82T engine and it now has from 12.5 to 55 pounds of compression when tested . Everything external ie cam timing and belts look good so methinks this SUEC crud has loostened carbon and made my valves stick open . I'm not sure if its between the valves and seats or glueing the valve stems to the valve guides . I really dont want to remove the heads to fix this if possible . Does anyone have an easier fix for this problem ? Many thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

Hi all , just back to round off as my hitachi alternator went in my L RX Turbo sedan last weekend . Just to fill in the gaps my XT4 retrofitted engine had the aircon removed so its using the standard non AC alternator brackets . What I had to do was use a longer bolt plus spacers because the alternators "adjuster" side ear has a plain hole unlike the threaded std alternators ear . The spacers are to fill the gap between the sloted bracket and that alternator ear . There is a very simple solution to the wiring , the std alternator plug is a very common style and you can easily buy those plugs as a male and female set with terminals . Its very simple to use the female half of the plug and terminals to make an adapter sub loom . I always get alternator connectors if I buy them from wreckers (breakers) and if you do this you can fit the female plug to the newer alternators plug wires and plug it to the cars existing alternator connector . Aside from being easy the advantage is that you can fit and plug in a std alternator if you ever have to ie if you change cars and keep the fancy spark maker . Other reason I came back was because I scored a Hitachi LR1110-705 110a alternator from a 95 A32 Maxima today for $35 and after a clean up and test it will go in my imported R33 Skyline . It will replace the std Mitsy 80a one so it too has extra capacity . Cheers A .

In Aus speak thats 230-240 thousand frog miles or kilometers . I agree with the dealer than in an engine with a lot of miles it isn't going to care about a specific oil viscosity as long as it can maintain acceptable oil pressure . The thing is that most of society cannot figure why people still drive old cars and most late things are low mileage and built to different standards . My 87L factory WSM quotes 15W/30/40/50 oils depending on the climate the car lives in . Personally I'm not sold on these 0W20 0W30 and 10W30 oils because I believe they are used to minimise oil drag so manufacturers can crow about getting 50 mpg . Also crow about lifetime cost cycles meaning extended oil use periods and who cares about the thing when it has 40K miles on it because the original owners probably flicked it . My spider XT4 engine was rebuilt so it had new bearings rings and seals , not so sure with a high mileage engine . One thing you HAVE to do with EA82s is fit new front and rear crankshaft seals and every water hose they have . Doesn't hurt to do the oil pump gaskets and seals and may as well throw belts tensioners idlers and a water pump at it too . Anyway with oils I think a 40 weight is a reasonable minimum from an 80s designed engine and a lowish cold pouring index number shouldn't be a problem . A 50 weight is getting up there and I don't think it does anything that a 40 weight cant do unless the engine runs really hot or its clearances are really big . A .

.Part numbers . USDM 85-94 J30 Maxima Alternators . LR190-709 or LR190-709B or LR190-711 . LR180-724 is the Z32 300ZX NA one I have and its internal bearings are NSK 6201DW rear and NSK B17 102DW3 front . They are available through CBC bearings at approx 9 and 38 dollars . I have not seen one yet but I noticed 2004+ Nissan XTrails have a Hitachi LR1110-713 which is 110amp output . Its Nissan pt no 2300-AU420 . A . Just a side note , your USDM spec Nissans seem to get higher output alternators than our ADM ones . Maybe they have more electric add ons and need more current . Cheers Adrian .

I've never seen a Maxima here with the LR190 90a alternator on it here and I need to replace a loaner one I found out last night was off an MY wagon so probably an old LR50 50a . Actually my LR180 was sitting in the dirt in the rain when I found it and now we've removed its rear casing to look inside at the bearings and brushes . You have to carefully support the inner side of the front case and press the rotor back through the front bearings bore to get it out . Then you remove the keeper plate that retains the front bearing in the nose of the case . The rectifier and voltage regulator are bolted in the back of the rear half of the casing so they'll come out for a cleanup and diode test . Fingers crossed these are all good and worst should only cost bearings and brushes . It would be interesting to know the internal differences between the 80 and 90 amp versions and if even higher output internals are available . I am surprised that my LR80 being off I assume a Z32s four cam VG30DE engine has the earlier Maxima alternator casings , BTW our Maximas are east west front wheel drive where Z32 are not . Not sure which USDM Maximas are - FrWD/RWD . Cheers A .

I went into a U Pull it wrecker today and found what I think is a Z32 300ZX non turbo alternator . It looks just like the one in the pics above but I think its 80 amp instead . The numbers on its ID sticker are 23100 30P00S followed by LR180-724 . I trial fitted to an L EA82 AC car and It'll work with a pulley change and a freshen up . Hope this helps us Aussies and y'all Stateside . Cheers A .

From searching for Hitachi and 86-94 SOHC Maximas it looks like the part numbers are LR190-711F 14661 or LR190-709B . Can someone confirm please , cheers Adrian in Oz .

Hi all from Adrian in Australia , can someone please post the part numbers from the Hitachi sticker on the 90 amp Maxima thats fits EA81/EA82s . I have the EA82 Hitachis one piece double pulley and can modify the spacer but need to identify the correct Nissan alternator , ADM Maximas may have used different alternators . Anyway it should be something like LR190-******* Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

Hard to get in Australia but I just changed to the T6 so called synthetic Rotella a couple of days back . The value most seem to put on this oil is that its cheaper than most high enough ZDDP content oils so a dollars and cents win . BTW ZDDP stands for Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate , its a good anti scuff/wear additive for older engines that drag cam lobes over rockers like an EA82 engine does . More current engines had to resort to rockers with rollers in them to survive "Green Oils" that have a lot less ZDDP . Imo an EA82 is a first generation polluted engine , EFI one anyway , and from an era before these late garbage oils existed . I reckon if you are really worried about your cat change it but still use real oil . A .

Hi all , I was reading recently in an Australian factory WSM that not all conventional distributors had the same advance curves in early EA82T engines . In some obscure European country the mechanical advance mechanism was set to be all in at about 2200 rpm where the Australian and catalyst equipped cars had it all in at around 2700 rpm . I'm interested in this because I've made inlet system mods that make inlet manifold pressure rises to atmospheric more quickly and easily and I'm losing some of the vacuum advance I previously had at light loads and part throttle . I reckon if I can play with heavier bob weights and or lighter springs I can get the mechanical part of the advance curve to be all in earlier . I don't think under full load it would ping because high load total advance equals all the mechanical advance minus whatever the diaphragm pulls out when the engine is on boost . Inlet mods are all the plastic in guard stuff gone and an ovalized section of 3.5" tube feeding the lower air box - larger hole into box and inner guard . Spider manifold NA cams porting and a Garrett GT2554R turbo . Header is a 1.75" TWE type thing . Anyone alter the early dizzy's advance curve ? Cheers A .

Hi all , for those that have changed from a single to a new/as new twin row radiator in an L with an EA82T how mnuch of a difference did it make ? A bit better or a LOT better , cheers Adrian in Oz .

Hi Tom , yes I really would like to see pics of the differences in that "inlet tank" and the top and bottom straps . I looked in my Factory 87 WSM and it states the single row core is 16mm and the twin row one 32mm . Also would like to know if the twin core rads use the plastic/composite tanks or brass ones . Will pass any pics and info onto the AuSubaru site here in Oz if thats ok with you . Thanks muchly in advance , cheers Adrian in Australia .

Hi all , we ended up ejecting all the in gard plastic garbage and opening up the feed to the air box base to fit a 1" long section of ovalised 3.5" exhaust tube . Naturally the inner guard was opened up to fit the stub section . Still waiting for the K&N element though out results so far are good . The down side of doing this to a 3 plug 86 RX Turbo (conventional dizzy) is that the manifold pressure rises to atmospheric much more easily so less of a vac signal to the distributors vacuum can . My exhaust is now 3" to the back of the cat , behind the gearbox , and 2.5" through a resonator to the rear muffler . Not really loud but its about as far as you could probably go without unacceptable exhaust noise . Getting there , cheers A .

I think Vortex XT4 and 6 used a wider radiator than L Series cars , the ones I looked up for XT4s in Oz were the same height but a few inches wider . Cheers A .

I agree considering how hot and dry parts of Australia can get . I guess the thing is that we didn't get many turbo EA82 cars here , basically just the RX Turbo sedans and a few XT4s . Just for a history lesson did you get twin core radiators std in the States ? I have heard rumors that turbo auto cars over there got them std but not here . I have a radiator mob that has the founder due to retire soon , being from the days before aluminium rads he should be able to make something up that's same as your twin core ones . He assures me that having twin cores should make a sizable difference over the single one . If you have any pics that would be good , mainly want to see if the top and bottom straps are central on the tanks or offset a bit . Also it may be possible to use bolts rather than studs and nuts on the fans hub , bolts out and lift straight up . Cheers Adrian in Oz .

Hi all , has anyone got close up pics of these twin row L radiators as in not the advertisement ones ? Are these all copper/brass radiators and not the alloy core plastic things . Here in Australia we only got the single 16mm thick cores and I'm trying to get a 32mm thick twin tube one made up . I could sure use the wide brass tanks if they are available . I gather there are no probs getting the std shroud and elec fan on the back as per normal ? Cheers Adrian in Oz .

Hi Steve , I'm very interested to see the alterations to the air inlet and filter system you built up . Which K&N BTW , cheers Adrian .

Hi all , does anyone have pics of this thing . I'm curious to know if this thing and its duct are restrictive if you modify the turbo EA82s . Cheers A .