discopotato03

Hi all , I am modifying my cars suspension to get much better handling than the std package . I am lucky enough to have the ear of someone who runs a suspension hot shops and makes lots of aftermarket anti roll bars . First Stage . They looked at my 86 RX sedans std 19mm front and 16mm rear bars and said we can do better than that . They made up 24mm front and 22mm rear bars which gives a 1.55 times front and 2.57 times rear increase in bar rate . They were fitted with new urethane bushes as well . While under there my expert noticed that there was ~ 14mm of radius rod poking out behind the rear bushes lock nut so he said out with those and in with urethane bushes and three thick washers (curved radius rod type) in front of them . BTW this was all about getting an easy increase in much needed positive caster . It feels much more predictable in corners now which is what I want . Stage 2 will be neat looking WRX coil overs where the strut "foot" is also threaded onto the damper body which will make the set up ie stroke vs wheel travel a piece of cake . The springs will be 66mm ID so huge range of rates available . Back is looking like being a Koni depending on what is available in the approximate dimensions we want . They will have a circlip low on the body so that a coil over conversion unit can fit over and seat on the circlip . Std rear springs are 66/67mm ID so easy peasy . Cheers A .

Thanks for that was , just about to post out findings . One thing we can't work out is where the timing marks are on the poly V belt pulley ? We'll have to put out own on the std L crank pulley just can't find the Vortex ones . Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

I was reading an old thread here about someone over there fitting an XT spider engine to an L series car . They mentioned that the XT's crank has a keyway for it polly V belt where the L EA82 does not for its normal V belt pulley . I dont want to run the polly v belt but I have a good XT crank so is it going to be a problem fitting the V belt pully to the XT crank . This was not an issue I had known about so need a solution to it before the engine is due to go in . Thanks for the heads up , cheers Adrian in Australia .

Hi all , I have an 85/85 RX Turbo and am having an Australian spec XT4 Turbo engine being rebuilt for it . I managed to get the complete loom and all engine control gear with it acc cable pitch stoper etc . Now my car is a 3 plug computer flap style AFM type and I need to convert to 4 so the XT's electricals can run the engine inc its infernal screwy backwards TPS . My plan was to get a 4 plug L loom and seperate out the wiring from the CAS/transister/coil back to where the engine loom plugs are (opposite side on RHD cars to USDM) and then also the MAF wiring and resistor wiring back to the computer . Basically I'm trying to make a seperated engine control loom all the way to the 4 plug ECU then figure out how to patch power to it - possibly by 2nd fuse panel and fusable link box . Sadly all I have to play with is a 4 plug auto non turbo L loom but it could form an ok basis . Another thing is that engine looms will be different from Spider XT to garden variety L MPFI because the two large plugs (black and white) head towards the XT's firewall where the RHD L goes through the LHS (looking from the front) inner gard . Can anyone spot any holes in this plan ? I realise I'm gonna have to run knock sensor wires . Also on the computers wiring diagrams it shows a couple on pins used to differentiate between turbo/NA and auto/manual . Does anyone know if they are earthed/not earthed and for wich of two combinations ? My brain hurts , cheers A .

Actually I think you need to double check that one , from my Australian spec 87 FSM all turbo L boxes were wide ratio as in same 1st but slightly larger gaps between ratio's . The differences add up to 2345 being taller than non turbo 5spd L boxes . To get the viscous coupled centre diff you need the longer Legacy cases and shafts because the viscous "drag" and centre diff are the opposite way around to an AWD L box's center diff and diff lock . In other words L box has the lock in front of the centre diff where the legacy has the viscous drag behind its center diff . The best system would have been a viscous coupling and a diff lock . The problem with the L box is you can lose all power out any wheel , really need LSD's at both ends . Yes I also agree about the overall final drive being ~ 4.44 in low range and that's why the rally people ran them in low range on the dirt . Cheers A .

Silly me , just discovered that 4WD wagons have 195 inch pound springs and they are dime a dozen at wreckers . If only the thicker XT6 rear sway bars were easy to find here . Cheers A .

Sounds like the typical L needs more static positive caster . You could probably fit spacers behind the rear of the radius (compression) rods to push the bottoms of the struts further forward . Reset the toe and see how it goes . The larger rear anti roll bar will reduce roll and front camber/caster change so all good . Being Stateside if you can lay your hands on the higher rated RX Coup springs I'd fit those as well . I sure wish I could rat up 2nd hand the thicker rear bar and coup springs here in Australia , cheers A .

Hi all , in a thread here I just noticed that RX coup rear springs have a higher rate than RX sedan's ie 180 inch pounds instead of ~ 160 . If anyone has one could they please measure the spring wire diameter and count the number of effective turns . I am interested to know how they differ from the RX sedan rear springs and how they effect ride height ie the fitted lengths . Cheers Adrian .

Also on this topic what if any differences are there between L series front calipers and XT6 . I did pull some bits off an Australian spec 2wd turbo XT4 and the front calipers looked the same as L series . Cheers A .

Well John if you know of any in Australia I'm all ears . I have Crossbred hubs and just need the discs which in theory work with L series rear calipers and backplates . Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

Hi all , new idea that am told reliably works a treat . I'm told that you can retain your L's front E brake caliper but you need to change its mounting bracket (the bit that bolts to the hub) for 1st generation Liberty/Legacy . Was told that the pads are the same also . Just on this is there anything the same as or very close dimensionally to the XT6 rear disc ? These are unobtaenium in Australia so if there's an alternative that would be good . Cheers A .

This form of CAS is pretty simple and reliable . All that generally goes wrong with them is the LED device can lemon out . Once your sure that the cap/rottor button/leads are ok there isn't much else in them . I guess you could check the optical disk to make sure it hasn't rubbed and damaged the slots and thats about it . My Australian Factory 87 WSM shows 4 wires that run between the dizzy/CAS and the computer as follows in the round black plug . 1) BR Control unit ground . 2) B Control unit (position signal) . 3) W Control unit (reference signal) . 4) R Control unit power supply . I take 1) and 4) to be power and earth from the computer and can't see why you couldn't run external wires for test purposes . The position signal tells the computer in crank degrees where the crank (pistons really) are in the four stroke cycle . The reference pulse tells the computer when its coming up to no 1 cylinder in the start up phase . Until it gets that reference pulse innitially it doesnt have a clue where the engine is as it first cranks over . If I was having problems I'd try another diode pack that was known to be good and if no good go looking for wiring issues . My 2c spent , cheers Adrian in Aust .

You don't need fancy aluminium cam pulley wheels . Like I said slot the three bolt holes (in a milling machine with an indexing head if you want it exact) then move the dowel hole by welding and re drilling . If they've taken anything significant off your cases and heads the cam timing will have moved (retarded) anyway . If you modify the cheap common std pulley thay can stay with that particular engine . You just need someone who can operate a dial indicator and understands four stroke cam timing to dial it all in . Cheers A .

Hi Gravityman , no time ATM but . By ccing EA82T pistons/chambers/head gasket the CR comes out to be 8.4:1 - if the piston crowns are flush with the cases deck . They must not be if the advertised CR of 7.7:1 is correct . An easy way to get the 8.4 (or a little more) would be to mill the deck faces to get the pistons flush . When you do the cam timing will change so the pulleys need to be modified to correct it . Basicaly slot the three bolt holes and the dowel hole . Dial it up correct and mark it . Weld up the dowel hole in the pulleys and redrill in the correct position . Fixed . Cheers A .

Hi all , it seems 86 model EA82 carb pistons are 8.7 CR . I'm told they have a dish something like EA82T pistons do but not as deep . Can anyone possibly help me out with pics or part numbers for these pistons . Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian in Australia .

Another one for Gravityman . I found out that 86 model only (I think) EA82 carby engines use dished pistons like the EA82T ones but not dished as much . I think the compression ratio is 8.7 and a bit nearer what most current turbo engines are these days . I also think with a little bit of chamber work ie unshrouding the valves would get the CR possibly around 8.5:1 . I think this is way to go with an EA82T to have good street power and not needing lots of boost to make it feel ok . The extra off boost torque the higher CR makes could possibly allow a slightly larger bolt on turbo ie early Legacy and have sligghtly better low end squirt and less exhaust housing restriction up high . Cheers A .

Hi all , I understand that 1986 build NA carby pistons are supposed to be 8.7:1 compression ratio . Can anyone tell me how to tell the various EA82 NA pistons apart CR wise ? Part numbers would be handy as well if anyone has them . Cheers and thanks , A .

I'd really like to see the pics please . Cheers A .

Bratgeebra marketed about 20 of those kits from memory and the rights have been taken over by someone else in QLD Australia . I was lucky and got one of Gee's last kits . If I was in the US I'd be doing my damnest to find a set of XT6 bits and a set of spares . If I was going to make anything it would be a custom rear stub axle to accept the std rear outer DOJ on the inside and an early Liberty (Legacy over there) std 5 stud hub . The costly part of the Crossbred hub was the internal splining of the new hub , internal splines are more expensive to produce than external ones . The transition stub axle and a suitable bolt on backing plate to mount the rear caliper is the easiest new part solution IMO . Cheers A .

Hi all , here in Australia people have fabricated brackets to lift the back of their L series . These brackets bolt to the L's rear top strut mount holes and extend the mount holes downwards . If you did something like this you may be able to refit the rubbers and give the poor old damper shaft some "give" . Cheers A .

Caboobaroo I think it would be easier to use an EA drum and machine some off the inner or bearing end of the splined section . It looks like the XT6 was designed in a transition era when disks were changing from tacky bolted behind the hub to over the wheel studs on the outer side . Obviously the later system needs the hub flange to be offset inwards to allow for the depth of the disks hat section . So if you could offset the modified drum/hub inwards and machine its outer face to take a concentric insert or sleeve , the disc and wheel would run true . Because the hubs depth through the splined section is less you could fit a thick washer or spacer between the split tapered collar and the big nut . Cheers A .

Hi Gravityman , if you look in some American Nissan sites such as SR20 Forums and SR20.com they could possibly point you towards Nissan ones . Virtually all later Nissan turbo engines ie CA18DET/SR20DET/RB20 and 25DET/VG30DET/TT use them . I don't know what EJ ones look like but the Nissan ones are usually screwed into a drilled/tapped/spot faced section with a small 90 deg tube nozzle gadget pointing vertically up at the lower sides of the piston crowns . One would assume its aimed so that the upper half of the rod never gets in the way of the spray path and that the stream is constant -when above the regulated pressure that is . Oil pumps , by any chance does the ER27 one fit EA82's without mods to the EA block/case and clear all EA engine externals ie covers and crank pulley ? One other performance aspect that may be worth looking into is valves with performance oriented forms behind their heads . Most OEM valves have a pronounced tulip shape to have adequate strength and heat conduction qualities when made in less than exellent materials . Since you've gone to a bit of trouble to make the ports work are better shaped valves part of your build ? On one of these Subie sites someone mentioned Harley valves are dimensionally close so maybe worth a look ? Lastly ceramic coating the back of the exhaust valve should also provide some insulation when these are open . Interesting stuff and thanks all for the pointers , cheers Adrian .

Hi Gravityman , I look in on this thread and the sectioned ER27 head one regularly as I'm doing a modified spec EA82T engine here in Australia . One mod you've done looks vey interesting - piston oil squirters or drillings anyway . Do you know off hand if ER27's use the same oil pump as EA82 turbos because I'd sort of like a bit more pump capacity if I'm going to do that . Another thing is that Nissan engines with piston oil squirters generally have a small spring loaded nozzle affair that shuts off if the engines oil pressure drops below the springs load ie maybe 30 psi . Do you reckon drilling and tapping for these would be good security for you engines bearings if for any reason the oil pressure got low ? Getting back to cylinder heads you mentioned ceramic coating them , do you mean the combustion chambers and exhaust ports plus possibly the deck face as well ? Lastly cams , because I want the NA pistons and ~ 8.8 - 9.0 CR I'm looking at NA cams ATM . I have seen US spec XT4 cams at 20-60 60-20 though not sure if the ER ones are the same . I'd be very curious as to what maximum lifts can be had with factory style pistons and cam tunnels . There is a mob here in Aust called Ivan Tigh Cams that do a couple of EA profiles and their 20-60 one I think is about 395 thou but not sure if thats cam or valve lift . Will get back on that one . Your a bit ahead of me but once mine starts it won't take long . Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

Thankyou for the handy info and pics , we are just about to section a pair of dead EA82T heads so that we can port a pair of good uncracked/non cooked ones . Very interesting to see the 125 thou still on the HLS port bosses after reworking . I am truly sorry someone doesn't have a used up EA82T piston to cut along the gudgeon pin boss just to compare . One burning question I REALLY need to know is the differences or similarities between turbo and NA piston ring lands - basically crown design and thickness apart is the area around the rings the same ? If so do factory turbo rings fit the NA pistons ok ? Lastly no ones ever been able to tell me how NA pistons varied in CR ie 9.0 and 9.5:1 . Is this again a crown volume thing . Thanks for all your help , cheers Adrian in Australia .

Hi all , been wondering for ages if EA and EJ heads are anything even vaguely similar at the deck face . Probably not but had to ask . Cheers A .