SmashedGlass

That part number for the Spectra radiator brings up the bone-stock, single-row with plastic end tanks part that was originally in my GL. With a pathetically thin single row....

Do NOT be fooled and order the two-row radiator listed on the O'Reilly web site, Murray Heat Transfer - Radiator Part # 433698 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MHT1/433698/01386.oap?year=1988&make=Subaru&model=GL&vi=1268546&ck=Search_radiator_1268546_4459&keyword=radiator Though listed as fitting the 3rd gen DL/GL/RX/Loyale, it in NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM will fit. Not the upper bolt points, the bottom rubber isolator mounts, or the lower radiator hose opening are anywhere near correct, and there is no upside-down smile cutout in the front edge of the bottom U-channel for the core to fit over the hump in the car core support. I have no idea what this radiator is actually for, but it certainly isn't for our cars. Will be returning and calling O'Reilly to have this item de-listed. It could possibly be modified to work, but by the time you're done you could've just had a radiator shop custom build one.

^ I did, JesZek Replaced thermostat just to be safe tonight, as well as the radiator cap. Two-row radiator on-track to arrive sometime tomorrow and will be in shortly thereafter.

Yes, they are set up as pullers.

1988 EA82 SPFI, a/c converted by a shop from R12 to R134a, typical central Florida summer temps in the low 90's and humid. Everything works dandy, decent amount of cooling (for a conversion). Problem I'm having is that over the course of a drive, particularly stop and go, the car nears the overheating mark on the gauge, hitting say between 2/3 of the sweep to the tick for the start of "red". NOT running the a/c, I can pretty much romp the crap out of all day and never get warmer than the half mark, just enough to kick the fans on for a few and cool it back down. The cooling system was flushed the backyard method with flush from Autozone, a/c condenser was power washed free of debris while off the vehicle, expansion valve and receiver/drier replaced with new, aftermarket dual electric fans installed and functioning correctly via OEM setup. I see no evidence of a HG leak anywhere in the coolant, engine oil, unusual smoke from exhaust, etc. Any thoughts, before I throw more money at it? Car is equipped with what appears to be the original single-row all-metal radiator; I can get a new twin-row all-metal radiator but hate spending the money if it isn't going to fix the issue. Special question for Jeszek: did you have heat issues with yours before switching to the twin-row radiator?

Miles, we need pictures! Cleaned the contacts of the TPS plug, as for some reason I was getting Code 31 after the A/C shop converted my R12 to R134a. No idea what prompted the code, they didn't touch any of that stuff, but it's cleared and has stayed gone for two days now. A/C works pretty damn well - oddly enough, the shop where I had it done had a guy who knew a thing or two about the old Subaru's, way down here in c. Florida - except for the fact I have to jump power to the compressor via the relay wires. For the moment it's temporarily on a toggle switch until I can sort it out. But DAMN is it nice to finally have air when it's in the 90's with swamp-rump roast-inducing humidity!

Thanks Jeszek, I was thinking about that relay too, just dreading trying to get to it. For now I have a toggle switch wired in to the blue and blue/yellow wires on the main a/c relay so I can have air.

Okay, system was fully done and retrofitted to R-134A by a professional shop, and works great------if the compressor has voltage applied direct. Cycles on/off, blows cold, car idles up, everything. I have bypassed the belt protection system, I have checked the a/c and fan relays (good), pressure switch works (see cycle on/off) even jumpered the micro-switch under the drivers side dash, all to no avail. I'm at a loss as to why it isn't working normally. Ideas?

Yes, I miss Colorado quite a bit. Florida is my temporary home for a few years, due to familial responsibilities.

Thanks for the honest replies. I'll give it a whirl...........if it does happen to grenade anything, I can always just go out and buy a Subaru made in this century a few months earlier than I planned

Been researching prior to doing some Seafoam through the intake on my '88 SPFI, and I just want to know for certain whether or not anyone who has actually used it has experienced problems after using it, or a drop in fuel economy. I've come across a number of things on the internet saying "it works great!", but an equal number saying "don't use it, it's snake oil/damaging/just a gimmick!". Two completely separate postings on different web forums indicated a drop in fuel economy. Not to be rude, I'm looking for actual accounts, not "well I heard/read/was told this....." type things.

This is a more like "what are you GOING to do" to your Sube...... Dickering around today with what was an otherwise awesome stereo head unit [sony DSX-S200X with Tune Tray] came to find it would no longer perform the primary thing it was purchased for: read and control an ipod. And, for a unit that only saw about a total of maybe two months of use over the past two years, that is unacceptable. The damn 'Tune Tray' failed to open properly after the first day I owned it, but I was okay with having to pull it open by hand; not okay with it failing completely to see any ipod devices, even if it can still read a usb drive. Sony head units just plain suck anymore, from researching this they fail in multiple ways and often. So, looks like I'm purchasing a nice Pioneer digital media unit today or tomorrow.

That's a really nice bumper; you wouldn't consider producing again, would you?

I'll second Jeszek on a possible grounding issue. Pegging is usually a symptom of a hard grounding.

ah. i see it now.