SmashedGlass

there should be a "T" somewhere near the throttle body with two other lines on it, above the right side cylinder head area; it'll be obvious by it's lack of the third hose and an open nipple. Should not require any greasing other than some spit, if it just falls off with no tugging then just cut a little bit of the end of the hose off to get to some less stretched material. I'll post you a picture in the morning if you need it.

Vacuum for the climate control, yes: start by checking the vacuum line in the engine bay that T's near the intake and runs over behind the passenger strut tower. Possibly also the cause for no 4x4, as I believe your single-range push button 4WD is controlled via vacuum? The grinding in the rear that gets louder with speed, is likely bad bearings. Though it's rare for the rear bearings to go on the L.

Removing everything actually went pretty quick and smooth; I've had plenty of practice pulling panels on several different cars back when I lived in Colorado, at the UPull'n'Pay yards Hardest part of this was pulling the carpet from the passenger foot well. I had to unbolt the a/c evaporator core to get it out, was stuck up in there by the firewall pretty tight.

Continued on with the "clear the 26 years worth of crud out of the car" saga. All panels, as well as carpeting, pressure washed (backsides of every piece were covered in a thick layer of Colorado dust'n'dirt...as well as doggy hair) after padding was removed. Car body itself was scrubbed, wiped, and vacuumed by hand, with everything that could be unbolted or moved out of the way. The padding under the carpet got tossed, as the passenger side had gotten soaked and gone moldy, so it's getting replaced with new (and MODERN, mold-resistant) padding from local carpet store. Tried as hard as I could with carpet cleaners, laundry detergents + Oxy, and scrubbing before pressure washing, to get the staining out of the carpet but no luck. I highly doubt a Rug Doctor is going to budge them either, so I'm leaning towards dying the carpet black. This is as good as I could get the stains:

Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric spray on the console?

While (continuing) to tear apart my '88 wagon to clean every trace possible of crud (it's seems half of Colorado was packed behind all the panels) I discovered that the flexible filler hose for the rear hatch window washer reservoir was shot.....as in, fell apart in my hand while trying to remove reservoir and hose.

Not so different, really. Almost every FWD (those with transverse mounted engines, anyhow) and mid-engined car uses electric cooling fans.

Your best bet is pull'n'pay junkyards, or this forum. There are no "new" interior/exterior parts made for these cars. Occasionally some NOS things will show up on eBay motors, but not alot.

Started tearing apart the interior to deal with the disgustificated crud the P.O. slathered almost everything in. Carpet will end up coming completely out tomorrow, as it seems I managed to soak the passenger side front area when I was power washing the undersides of the engine. Apparently water shot right through the firewall where the a/c evaporator drain pokes out, and as I washed it about ten days ago, it's a bit....musty. And the stuff I'm finding in, around, and waaaay under the carpet even.............dirty slobby people should be humanely shot in the temple. Hopefully I can get the stains out, either by hand and the shopvac, or renting a Rug Doctor from up the road. But I may end up just replacing with generic aftermarket automotive carpet; my OEM is blue, whereas most of my replaced interior is grey, and most of that is probably going to get colored using one of the vinyl dye/coating products that are available. Probably removing the headliner at some point to recover too, I got it surprisingly clean but there are some bad gouges in a few places from the vinyl-eating pitbull puppy the P.O. had who is the reason I had to replace most of the interior was replaced. I also popped open the a/c evaporator core box (we'll see if I can get it back together without undoing the lines) and a good thing I did, there was enough linty crap piled up on it to make a mouse family very comfortable (but luckily no sign of mice) so IF I had working a/c it wouldn't have worked very well. OCD is fun.

You may want to go to the trouble of removing your cluster, and making sure that everything is in fact plugged in, yourself. As there is no telling whether the PO had pulled it or not, it could be something is loose or fully unplugged. There are two rectangular plugs on top of the cluster, and two round ones that are behind it. Here is an excellent writeup on how to do this procedure: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131336-led-retrofitting-on-instrument-cluster-dashboard-removal-procedures/ But, Jezek's bandwidth for the photos gets exceeded each month rather rapidly so right now, the pics aren't there Plug the address above into a proxy site like hidemyass.com and the pictures will show.

If you are worried about running too hot after ditching the clutch fan, you can replace the radiator thermo switch with one that opens at a lower temp; most commonly swapped in item being one for an early 90's Hyundai Elantra, which kicks the fan on @ 185F (stocker kicks @ 203F). You'd just have to cut and splice on the connector from your original switch.

Caspice......the mech fan is NOT the primary fan. Non-a/c equipped cars do not have them. Check around on the forum, or read up in the FSM.

Any car as old as these usually does Could be any number of reasons why the a/c doesn't work. Just roll 4/40 air.

Yes, you can remove the clutch fan assembly. Be sure to put the nuts back on the spindle though. Mine is currently running without the clutch fan, as the blades decided to start cracking at their bases, and I don't plan on installing another one; once my a/c is repaired, I'll wire in an electric in it's place.

Also note, for those with the additional, clutch driven fan: it will spin with the motor running, regardless of whether the clutch is engaged or not, so don't judge that it is "stuck on" simply from seeing it spinning. With the clutch disengaged, you can stop it with a finger--though I would recommend you test with something a little less tender if you are going to check this way to see if it's engaged or not.

As for cooling, are you sure the fan clutch is stuck? The electric fan is actually your primary cooling fan on the Loyale; the clutch-driven fan is for additional cooling with a/c. Is the electric fan always on? It shouldn't be.

Is there supposed to be a plastic trim piece at the front edge of the headliner on 3rd gens, where it meets the windshield? All I had was a folded metal strip piece (the width of the front edge) that fit into the unfinished edge, which I removed for now. I finally got around to starting to deep-clean the nasty headliner and noticed what appears to be a discolored line covering about 3/4" wide back from the front edge, as if something used to sit there and muck had accumulated around and under it. And, if there is supposed to be a piece of plastic trim............does anyone have one they could part with?

I don't believe there's a 'relay' for the horns. I know the Haynes book mentions a relay, but the wiring schematics I have from the Mitchell books show it going to a diode/fusible link, so I'd say check those four fusible links in the black box by the battery. Also, test the horns themselves by applying battery power to them directly.

Gloyale, are you saying it IS possible to do the pan without raising the engine? Just wondering, as I haven't done an EA pan gasket myself yet.

I'd do it diff out, just for easier access and I'd also do a full re-seal on the diff. Hell, do the mustache bar bushings while you're at it.

I'd do it with the diff out so that the bushing (what's left of it) has no load. Two very large washers or make your own cover plates, fill bushing generously with poly/Window Weld, then run the bolt and nut back through the sleeve with the washers/plates on the ends to sandwich the poly while it cures.

+1 on doing it yourself with Window Weld. As far as I'm aware, that front hangar bushing is only available from the dealer as an assembly pressed into (and with) the bracket--and that's if your dealer can even find one. I tried once a few years ago and my local (back when I lived in CS/CO) would've had to order it in from out of state and I believe the overall cost was somewhere North of $160. F that.

Mandalore, the reason he is putting this list together is that the OEM items are much higher quality than those "eBay specials". Would you want to go through the hassle of rebuilding the engine, only to have a cheap piece of spoob chinese gasket fail about 1000 miles later?

Is that with, or without, the catalytic converter @ the Y-pipe in place?

Don't do it! You're a young man!!