SmashedGlass

What are they asking? Looks like a good buy, most of the ugly is just simple cosmetic stuff. As long as it is mechanically sound and free of cancer, it's a good'n.

I took mine to a local drive line shop, and for $50 they popped out the staked-in OEM joints and installed the new u-joints w/grease zerts I had ordered from (I think, can't remember for certain) Rockauto. Believe they even checked to make sure it was balanced.

Beautiful adventure shots. Makes me miss Colorado that much more.......I'll definitely be moving back to mountains after I am no longer required in Florida.

I went through the whole drain/fill/run/drain routine on my 88 GL (SPFI with what I presume to be a single row rad) today, did a straight distilled water flush cycle twice and the Prestone cleaner in between. Drained from radiator (duh) and pulled both head drain bolts each time, and filled it per the method shown by Miles Fox in his video series. Strangely though, I've never gotten it to take more than one gallon of coolant or water each time I filled it and ran it? Right now after finishing the job and refilling with 50/50 mix, squeezing all the air out of it I could, running it til the thermostat opened, the cooling fan kicked on AND then back off, and heater valve open/heat blasting, it still only took exactly a gallon of coolant....... I'm confused, because it is supposed to take 1.5+ gallons of fluid?!?

Are you sure they were *brand new* struts? A pair of 5x7's wouldn't add enough weight to over power new, quality hatch struts.

Purchase materials to do major, post-sitting-for-year/post-crosscountry drive fluid and filter changes. Wake up to dreary skies and drizzle. No work able to be performed due to lack of overhead cover

Interested to know how you got such good results spray bombing the green! Also, when you used the Plasti-Dip, was it also from a rattle can?

Thanks for posting the work-around, Jezsek. I've been right-click, open-in-new-tab each pic individually all this time

Sand a little more; can still see a bit of the fire ring there.

That is completely NOT the part I need; on the EA82 5sp D/R, the 4wd indicator switch screws into the xmsn body at the back, like the backup light switch and neutral start switch.

All I see on RA is a backup switch, is that what you're talking about?

Dude.....just get a new transmission, or swap in a 5sp. That thing is too clean to get rid of for something as simple as a gearbox failure.

Continuing on with post-sitting-for-a-year maintenance, drained/refilled the power steering reservoir, removed coolant overflow tank for a soaking with Simple Green (twas nasty inside; full coolant flush shortly). And though my air filter itself was rather sparkly clean despite a year of use in dusty Colorado and then the dusty trip to Florida, found this when I pulled it out of the air box: ..damn squirrels.

Fixed my "always on with key in acc" cooling fan. All this time I thought it was possibly my a/c trinary switch muffed up, as it and it's wires looked suspect..... Turns out the fan relay was bad, which I could swear checked out good when I t/s'd it last year?!? Luckily I had some spare a/c relays from back when I was attempting to suss out my a/c woes. Even though the two are supposedly different relays by color and number coding (fan: brown, -1B. a/c: black, -1M) it worked. Fan not on with key, kicks on a little above half on the gauge, cuts back off when it goes below half. Now, to replace that factory temp switch out for one with a lower cut in temperature....and aftermarket dual fans. And find a quarter window.... And a 4wd light switch... And on and on and (little rump roast things) on....

Yeah, there are absolutely ZERO down here in central Florida. Or perhaps even all of Florida. Whereas Soobs are thick as fleas back in Colorado, where I moved from. I sure do miss my weekly trips to the p'n'p to go "browsing" for parts. Now I have to rely on buying stuff new or the whims and mercies of other L-series owners. How much would you want for that switch?

I think my 4wd switch on my D/R transmission finally bit it. Got it to light up a little bit yesterday, but nothing since, no matter how much I wiggle, throw, or plead with the transfer shifter. Even checked the connectors up front, couldn't find a problem there. "Lo" indicator switch is working fine, though. So....how do I get hold of a replacement? Kinda like having a functional indicator in the dash (ask me about driving 50 miles in 4 Hi @ 75mph sometime......)

SHE. LIVES. !!!! It took awhile, but I got her running. Aside from the expected valve train noises from sitting, she's good as gold. Poured some Seafoam in what gas was left in the tank, and a cap-full into the throttle body. Still took a good ten minutes on and off cranking to get her to "go". I was fearing a blown fuel pump on top of everything as I could not hear mine at all when I keyed on (I'm working alone, can't turn key and lay under the back end at the same time). Turns out, I just have the quietest fuel pump ever. Now, I can begin doing all the lovely stuff I need to in order to bring her back to %100, like oil change, coolant flush, basically everything flush

Seconds, Boxer, seconds. And barely at that. It's probably bad gas, though I've left cars sit up in the mountains of Colorado for 6-12 months and the gas was still usable. As far as T belts, I'll maybe check them but as they have perhaps 4000 miles on them (were replaced just prior to my purchase of car) I would highly doubt they'd suddenly break or jump timing from just sitting on my property.

She cranks (yay!). First time cranking after putting the battery back in, she caught and ran for about 5 seconds, then died. All subsequent attempts, she'd crank and was getting the lovely "old fuel" smell from the exhaust, but she hasn't fired again. Battery is back on the charger for right now, but is there anything obvious I should be looking at to get her to fire? Bleed the fuel, and if so where? Possible the battery has the volts, but no longer the amperage to crank her hard enough to catch (even if the trickle charger says she's "good")? Ran perfectly before she had to be put away back in October 2012 for legal reasons--got me through the 2000 mile trip from Colorado to Florida just purrfect and averaging 32mpg. '88 GL SPFI D/R

That is one beautiful bit of revitalization you pulled on that hatch. Keep her clean!

I've had a ball joint come apart on one of my cars before. Luckily, it occurred while I was still in a large parking lot; had I been driving at any significant speed, it could have been catastrophic. I'd dig into and fix all of that suspension (at a minimum those first three items) before you drive any distances in the Brat. Having a wheel assembly come off while speeding down a road might ruin your day.

Had that problem when I bought mine. The cable had stretched. So I took apart the cable and release at the release end, and clamped a couple of round lead fishing sinkers to the cable at the end stop. Reassembled, problem solved.

Um.....radiators and a/c condensers usually get painted black at the point of manufacture.......and I highly doubt it's any kind of "special" paint they use. Ordinary spray can paint won't cause any measurable drop in efficiency of your I/C, it goes on in a coat measured in microns.

I could swear that's a third gen wagon on the opening page for this indie pc game: http://kentuckyroutezero.com/

Dammit. And AA's are impossible to get ahold of anymore.