SmashedGlass

Rugby, what wheels are those???

The easy check--not necessarily fix, you have to figure out the problem first--is to open the door wide and check the rubber boot that the wiring harness runs through from door to body. It's a bit of a pain, but you can pop one end of the rubber boot off (usually go for the door end) which will give you a limited view of the wiring bundle. Look for damaged wires. Sometimes you'll get chafing at this point, especially if the rubber boot is damaged or missing, and wires will break or ground out. Door panel itself is easy to pull apart. 1) Pop little squarish covers off arm rest that cover mounting screws. Remove said screws and arm rest. 2) Carefully pry door handle trim piece out while holding handle open. 3) Start pulling (again, carefully) plastic fasteners that hold panel to sheet metal, each spaced about 6" apart. I'd suggest getting a cheap panel/fastener tool from Harbor Freight or what not to lessen the chance of breaking these plastic parts. 4) Lift panel out of top channel, and unplug harness connectors for master window control and master door lock. Or leave plugged in to test. Takes all of about two minutes to open a doors guts up.

I'd suggest opening your drives door panel and checking the wiring loom and connectors to the switches. Drivers controls are the master for the rest of the system, if that fails AFAIK the rest of the doors and windows will not work even from their own switches.

That hatch needs some old(er) school looking wheels under it. Those look like they belong on somebody's '93 Civic I'm surprised he found one in Florida at all, and if I can come across a second 80's Sube that's 2wd, I'd slam it too. Already have my D/R rig for if I ever make it back to my home state of Colorado.

I would just keep cleaning it up and restore it (other than possibly the manual transmission swap), possibly tuck it down a bit over some Peugeot or Subaru (if you can find them.....) alloys. As for the bumpers, earlier chromies if you can get ahold of any, otherwise restore the factory bricks and put them back on. Not very many of these running around at all that are in good shape. Nice find, and good luck with it!

Pick up one of those cheap (~$30) floor jacks from Walmart or Harbor Freight, with at least a 17" lifting height. And for safety, a jack stand or two and maybe some wheel chocks (for when you jack the front end up). I wouldn't work under any vehicle relying on just the hydro jack alone, and particularly a bottle jack. Bonus is that most of the smaller floor jacks will fit in the compartment in the cargo area.

Because the transfer in the transmission is what engages the 4wd, regardless of whether or not you still have a drive shaft hooked up to it. Sensor is in the tranny.

Let's see... New to board....posts sketchy information....'calls out' longtime well respected member of boards....and, inserts As Seen On TV device as something we should look into........

I would recommend giving it a shot, you'll at least find something of use in that section of the library.

I can agree that the layout of it in the GL probably helped save you from a disaster. With two heads low to the ground they were getting more air to them than a comparable inline four cylinder would, with the head sitting on top of the block.

A water cooled engine will in no way, shape, or form, function as an air cooled engine. You just got lucky that no damage occurred.

Could last a few weeks, could last a few years. But you will, eventually, need a new resistor assembly as noted earlier in this thread.

Yeah, that sounds like a mouse got sucked onto the blower motor. Ouch, and ewwww.

The only help is to dismantle the whole dash to get into the vents and remove the corpse and disinfect everything. Also get under the cowl inlet area.

Same problem the EA82T heads have.

Check for loose heat shield around the catalytic converter. Even a fairly new a/m cat can start to rattle from there; mine (Magnaflow no less...) began to tick and rattle a bit about two weeks after it was installed.

The spare tire in the engine bay makes a perfect drying rack for acorns, if what I found after it sitting over the winter is any indication.

Question: have you ever seen the electric fan operate on it's own? If not, you first need to check to see if it even works; you can do this with the car off. Simply unplug the fan's two-wire connector, jam a few feet of wire with stripped ends into each slot so you have a pos and neg wire to work with, then touch the ends to your battery pos and neg posts. If the fan doesn't turn, it's toast. If the fan works with 12v supplied to it that way, then you can start checking to see if it's the temperature switch or possibly even the trinary switch going bad. Could also be minor shorting in the wiring around those two--I once was able to make my fan turn on and off simply by moving the wiring around a little bit due to a small chunk of insulation missing from one or two of the wires in that system. ***I see jeryst mentions the same thing happening to him, while I was taking my sweet rump roast time typing this

Check out this guys videos, they're very informative on how automotive HVAC systems work, and how to work on them. Bonus, he's using a Subaru Legacy for demonstrating most of the repairs:

Yeah....there is no 'insulation' down in the HVAC system. Other than the fur wrapped around whatever mouse is lounging in there.

My a/c is currently non-functional due to....low coolant charge None of my books mention the pressures it should be at--they always say "...a qualified a/c mechanic....". You could call one of those kinda guys and ask, they may tell you. Anyone have the factory service manuals handy? They might have a figure.

OCD, have you tried checking the Mitchell manuals at the downtown Penrose library, in the reference section downstairs? Just about anything you would need to know is in those, carbs, engines, trannys, wiring, etc. I can't remember if they have one that goes back to the '79 or not, but from memory (I moved to FL last year) they had a fairly complete collection of the import manuals....minus the electrical schematics for the 1988 GL thanks to a thief someone too cheap to spend $1 to copy them

Sweet Datto! What are those Chevy rims off of exactly?

Yes. You've basically just blinded the ECU and it can't read how much air is coming into the engine.

From what I've read up on (once again, I'm in no way an a/c expert) what you describe could be a bad expansion valve, attached to the evap core. Could also be evap core icing up.