SmashedGlass

AFAIK, both pressure and temp sensors. Trinary switch for pressure (cuts when low side pressure reaches certain point, kicks back on when drops below another) and a temp sensor in the evap core to prevent it from icing up.

I'm not an a/c expert, but I believe it gets that signal from the trinary switch; when the low side pressure hits a certain point it cuts the compressor, when pressure drops it kicks it back on (confusingly, this switch will also cut the compressor if it reads too little system pressure?). Also from a temp sensor in the evaporative core inside the dash, to keep it from icing up.

The compressor should, normally, occasionally stop and then come back on. The pulser system is for if the there is a mismatch in the speed of the belt, like when the compressor is starting to lock up; basically it cuts a/c operation to save the belt from burning

That's why we should all have one of these:

Auto parts stores sell a generic "conversion" kit of just the green O-rings. Such as: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-System-O-Ring-Gasket-Kit/1988-Subaru-GL/_/N-ii86oZ91tam?itemIdentifier=947242_0_18102_

I could also swear that fuse (in the pic) was actually the a/c fuse..... Scratching my head on this one. But you got it working anyhow.

....four hours, to replace/repair struts in the rear only? that shop is smoking crack.

Even more interesting is the apparently factory installed rain guards in that sedan photo....

Although it seems too coincidental, I'd also lean towards that second compressor being bad. You're hotwiring it correctly yet it doesn't engage, so.......poof. You mentioned in your other thread that it worked two years ago but since then all the a/c lines had been torn out of that car? Maybe moisture got in there and fubar'd the works.

I was going by my Haynes manual for the 80-94 1800's. It says "before towing 1988 and later models equipped with an automatic transaxle, (blah blah blah)" and tells you to do what I said earlier. The illustration (not picture) shows the area in the picture Pablo posted.... So, all I can say is check around the engine bay near to the towers and firewall and see if you can hunt it down. Unless someone who owns an auto 4wd Loyale can chime in with better knowledge.

Finished clearing off (most) of the stupid flat black rattle can job on the drivers side. And discovered cancer at the rear of the quarter panel That's gonna require professional repair, and probably the matching spot on the passenger side. I lack the tools and knowledge to patch it properly, beyond basic cut and clean

I would start by checking if a fuse has been inserted in the fuse holder near the wiper motor, under the hood. A fuse is inserted here to disable the 4wd (mainly for purposes of being towed) so if there is a fuse there, remove it. Cover on the holder should be marked with 'FWD'.

Cleaning continues....or rather, removing the P.O.'s questionable choices in "styling". He had painted the bottom half of my wagon with a cheap, crappy flat black spray paint (cuz flat black is bomb, yo) to achieve the two-tone look. and it appears this is in places over what at one point he had also painted with some sort of tan brush-on house paint?!? WTF. So commenced to vigorous scrubbing using Scotch™ pads, rags, and lacquer thinner. Add in a putty knife for those spots where the remnants of "house paint" (again, wtf?!?) remained, they were pretty stubborn. There is no hope for the ding/rub strips however...May have to acquire some in the future. Afterwards is a hasty session with some rubbing compound and then a cheap wax. In the last two pics you can see the stark difference between the beautified door and the oxidized, half-finished door behind it. Still rock chipped all over but looks way better than it did. The kicker: in the future I may get the same area covered in.....black bedliner, whether I get a repaint or not. But at least it doesn't look like ghetto like it did (should've seen the P.O.'s two honda ) Oh yeah...the black fender....Replaced due to P.O. painting the whole thing with that thick tan paint, and then spray bombing flat black.

Quick! Pluck it and fry it!

Thanks for the tips. I'm probably going to have the system evacuated, as my receiver/drier looks like it could use a replacing and as I understand you should replace it when converting from R12 to R134 anyhow. That, and I'll be replacing all the O-rings and changing the adapters too.

There are two relays up behind the passenger strut tower; one of these two is the a/c system relay. But I would (as you've already done) remove the belt anyhow for safety, especially since you say the pulley is harder to turn by hand now.

Just curious, what were the not-working conditions of the system prior to you fixing the O-ring and refilling? I believe my a/c would work, if it were refilled, but haven't done so just yet. I can get my compressor to run by doing the pulser delete mod from on here but it doesn't blow cold at all and I have bubbles in my drier sight glass. So I'm assuming it's just too low on charge and triggering the trinary switch to send an "off" signal.

Try central Florida..... I get all teenage-girl-spotting-Bieber excited if I even see an old school Subaru down here. In the year I've lived here, that has been exactly two times.

What you need is a full-time all-wheel drive transmission. They came in later 80's models of the RX, some XT's (1987.5+), and I think rarely GL-10's. Some are also available in dual range, and with a locking center differential.

Make a trip into Colorado, East of the Rockies. They're thick as fleas in the pick'n'pulls around Pueblo/Colorado Springs/Denver

AFAIK, that's a dealer item. Or you do the McGyver fix: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122888-tech-tip-ea81-4-speed-sloppy-shifter-bushing-fix/

From the pictures on the website about the build of the car (no captions or any description to go with, unfortunately) I think they put an EJ25 NA in it. That's about all I could figure out besides a whole lot of suspension and reinforcement work.

An hour and half early, to a pick'n'pull? THAT's dedication.

That guy in LA must be the original Subaru America mechanic! Forty years experience? He had to get his start on 360's.

Welcome. You've come to the right place; we're usually pretty friendly and helpful on here