SmashedGlass

Drove 2000 miles moving from CO to FL.... Averaged 33mpg and the only hiccup (if you can call it that) was having to add about 2qts of oil during the trip. Gotta re-seal that EA, or do an EJ swap. Bumped the mileage up to 236k with that drive. 2k miles; no a/c; no cruise control; one very distressed kitty

This is what I'm thinking of picking up for as cup holders for my wagon. Probably mount to the side of the center console. Just google "flip down cup holder".

With the rear seats in my wagon folded down, I can just wedge my drink between the seats and the rear of the console.

Goo Gone, acetone, or good 'ole gasoline

All I got around to this weekend was swapping out all the disgusting, flat-black rattle can over brushed on tan house paint(!?) exterior trim, buttoned up some interior panels I had off, and also adjusted the window rollers on the doors. Voila, no more rattling of windows with them not rolled all the way up.

Yeah, I've dealt with it this summer in Colorado but haven't had to spend extended periods in the car just short trips. The move in two weeks is down to central Florida, and I'm dreading not having air once I get down into Texas and then on across the seaboard..... There will be a cat along for the ride as well, I'm actually more concerned for her; I've done three tours of 120F+ summers, but she has alot of fur

Without doing a "full conversion" first? Pressure in my system is present, but too low to trigger my compressor, at least as far as I know. I've read some posts on other forums where people have just topped off an old R12 system with R134a and had zero problems....and just as many screaming "NO DONT DO ITTTTTT!!!" I can go the "ES-12a Conversion Kit" route for the same price as one of those R134a charge cans from Autozone/Advanced/OReilly, but as I'm supposed to start my 1800 mile cross country trek in two weeks getting the ES-12a kit in time may be an issue whereas the R134a can be picked up imeadiately.

If it's DOT 3, it's....DOT 3. Should be fine. As to the amber color, was this a brand new bottle?

'tis true my friend. Very true. Though I must say, those beer stickers are mighty stout, much like our beer itself edit: though, the previous poster appears suspiciously to be of the spambot variety.....

As XT6 Haven is for the most part a defunct website nowadays, one cannot open/download the scans of the articles that appeared in the magazines back in the late 80's on the XT6 and XT Turbo. If anyone managed to grab them before the links broke, I'd really appreciate getting them. -Car & Driver July '88 -Motor Trend April '88 -Road & Track May '88

Thanks for the tip on the butyl, I was going to pick some up tomorrow morning anyhow for re-attaching my moisture barriers once the door speakers are done.

I'm running 13" Hankook Winter iPikes w/o studs year-round, as I can't afford a separate seasons setup just yet. They work beautifully in the snow even without being studded (which is an option), aren't too noisy on dry pavement, and pull double duty for light offroad.

entire hatch=$50+ at the pick'n'pull.... trim pieces=$2-$4ea at pick'n'pull. And my hatch is in great shape (once I removed the PO's weird spray paint spots) so I can't justify replacing it whole on my budget.

Hey Cpreset, happen to have the part number to those? All I can find by Pertronix are the 7mm wires; I suspect typo's on the AdvanceAuto website.

That's why they invented the box cutter They're the only ones in the yard that are in good shape, all the others were full of tears and holes. I'll make 'em work.

Thanks for the offer, but I went to the pick'n'pull today and lucked out--the '89 3 door there had rings, that were factory but different from the ones you show. They were black plastic, and actually fit 6 1/2" speakers with no modification! Also grabbed the near-pristine moisture shields from the same car.

Anyone have any pictures of the stock front door speaker hardware/brackets/etc in the later '80s GL? It looks like the PO of my wagon ditched everything when he half-assed his install, all that's left in my door is metal. No brackets, no moisture shield, nothing. Haven't looked at one in the junk yard yet as it's raining on and off today. I know you can just mount speakers to the plastic panel, but I'm trying to keep the speakers inside the door panel mounted properly for somewhat better sound quality (I'm not sure, but putting them on the outside might make them sound crappy).

Replaced the replacement d/s fender (PO put one on and then slathered it in about 3mm of various paints. grrr), and the valence. Unfortunately both replacements were black (no good Splendor Red GL's in the yard) but it's nice not to have: a) a fender that looks like magnified flat black orange peels and a valence that isn't banged in all to hell It'll all come back off once she's parked in Florida for clean up/rust prevention/re-paint. Also got a start on installing a media player head unit and speakers, so far shaved out the surround I nabbed from an '89 3-door for the Sony to fit and replaced PO's crap door speaker wiring job....as in, wires properly run through the loom grommets. Oddly enough, modern h/u almost fit in the '89 panel; could be the year Sube started catching up with the times?? Still sticks out too far but I'll just blacken the aluminum before installing.

Yes, it's just phenomenal up here. Unfortunately I have to take a sabbatical in Florida (ewww) for the next 3 or 4 years. I'm going to miss it badly.... Nice sedan!

I think the biggest problem is the phenomenal amount of adhesive Subaru used around the fasteners when the were installed onto the wagons; I guess worst-case I could just do the same x10 with a jy trim sail that the fasteners break off of :|

I'm trying to replace them on mine. They're damaged a bit, the skinny piece is already snapped off on one side, and the previous owner did a pretty poor job of 'painting' them on my wagon. As well, I have to remove the remaining skinny piece on the other side in order replace the glass that the p.o. smashed; the only thing holding that glass together is the tint and stickers from locally brewed beer companies.

What, has no one successfully removed these un-damaged?!?

I'm talking about the plastic 'wing' pieces that are near-vertical at the back of the rear side windows and wrapping the sides of the hatch (they did away with them on the Loyale).... How the crap does one get them off without damaging the mounts??? The ones on the hatch you can access the bolts that are along one edge from inside the hatch, but that still leaves the plastic panel fasteners (and apparently a ton of adhesive) untouchable; I did test pulls on two of the GL's in the p'n'p this afternoon and being as careful as I could and using body trim removal tools still broke the fasteners off most of the time. Here's a pic of the pieces I'm struggling to remove intact:

Spent today going through half a pint of lacquer thinner removing all the over spray from the PO's attempt at "two tone"....and said PO's sad idea of a color match to Splendor Red (funny, his looked like tangerine to me....) that happened to cover things randomly on the back hatch and ended up covering...nothing? No rust under them thar spots!? Then attacked some panels with polishing compound just to see what would happen and LO AND BEHOLD! Besides all the rock chips, the red actually looks nice! So I may keep it for a bit while I decide what to do about a re-paint. Must buy an orbital buffer tomorrow from Harbor Freight, if I intend to have continued use of my elbows. I'll try to post a pic or two once the compounding is done, it's quite a difference. Will have to go the jy this weekend and try to find a Splendor Red drivers fender, as the (once again, that idiot) PO slathered the replacement he put on with a) tan house paint and then the cheap bed liner spray he used on the rockers. No saving that one without sanding to bare-metal. As well as every piece of exterior trim molding I can find.

Hey Scott, for some reason your website is now being reported as an "attack site" when I try to go to it... Have you been hacked?