SmashedGlass

hatch struts. as for the 'spoiler', they're usually there. at least they are here, not alot of people want them.

Thanks for the tip Numbchux, I'll check into that. The main concern, for me, is that I like to leave my windows slightly cracked to help alleviate heat build up during the day while it's parked; problem is I'm not always home to run out and roll up those windows when a shower rolls through town.... ergo, wet interior lol. jj421, those spoilers are a dime a dozen down here in Colorado in the local pick'n'pulls.

Are there any of those rain guard type things from another vehicle that will fit the GL/Loyale wagon doors? It would be nice to roll with my windows cracked when it's wet out, seeing as my a/c is still inoperative. *disregard* found some answers after trolling around. in short, no.

No, haven't had a chance to dig any further yet.

The pulse-amplifier is up behind your glove box, with a rectangular 8-pin (if I remember right) connector. I'll try to scan the diagrams and a/c section I got from the Mitchell manuals tonite and shoot them to you.

I'm pre-planning for my move from Colorado to central Florida this fall and have a question about what gas mileage to expect on the trip. I've never been on the highway for a long enough distance to really gauge what my hwy mpg would be (just a trip up to Denver and back, barely any fuel used), but I am averaging 28mpg around town here at 6000ft of elevation. I don't "hyper mile" at all, just usually don't romp the crap out of it to get going unless I really need to get moving, and I do take it out of gear and coast down if I can see that a stop is coming. Any guesses as to what I might reasonably expect at an average speed of 70-75 for the 1800 mile trip? At the moment I'm conservatively estimating 31mpg... 88 GL spfi d/r 4wd

Bad things always come in threes Sorry to hear about all your troubles Jeszek, I've had days like that myself.

Hey, did it end up really being a rear DOJ that was clicking? I was in the same boat (only didn't have anyone outside the car to tell me for sure or not) on hearing clicking from the rear, but it turned out to be a badly worn rear drive shaft u-joint. Did you check those yet?

Already picked up 3' of new hose, just too damn hot out til evening to do more work.

Yesterday I tore apart my intake system along with all the PCV related hoses to clean it out, as it had some oil build up in it (PCV itself was changed a few weeks ago). I carefully cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner; then sprayed out the intake snorkel and the hoses with some degreaser then rinsed well with water, also knocking quite a bit of carbon build-up out of the drivers side PCV hose; then wiped everything out really good and allowed them to dry overnight. Replaced air filter this morning to complete the project, and now my car has a dead, laggy spot around 3000rpm and sometimes idles low and erratically. This is on an 88 SPFI 5sp. Any ideas? Should I just drive the crap out of it to see if it clears, run some Sea Foam through the intake, or something else?

What are those fender flares from sir???

Leaning more strongly towards low R-12 charge; after bypassing and running for about 10 minutes, the air from the vents wasn't cold and there were bubbles in the air dryer sight glass the whole time. Need to find some R-12....

It's entirely possible the cluster you swapped in was bad too, if you got it from a junkyard.

I grounded the red/black wire at the a/c relay per something I found online and the compressor kicks on. So according to what I read there is a fault in the stupid pulser system. I don't think it's that, I'm leaning towards either low pressure in the system or a bad trinary switch. I'll bypass the pulser coil at the pulse amp today so I can sit in-car with it running and see how cold it gets.

I'm trying to get the a/c functioning in my '88 GL d/r with the Hitachi system; so far I've replaced the pulser, pulse amplifier, both relays, and the microswitch with what are assumed to be good units from a '94 Loyale carcass. System still has R-12 in it, pressures unknown until I can get a shop to check that. Still not getting the compressor clutch to engage. Would be very helpful to have the relevant section of an FSM to troubleshoot with, the Haynes and Chilton manuals are next to useless for air-con. And I know it's not a 'necessity' but we are already getting average temps of 90+ here along the Front Range, it would be nice to be able to blast the hot air out of the wagon after I get in it.

Stubie, if you order your y-pipe/cat online (I did, a Magnaflow part, got it on sale for something like $50 less than Autozone and whatnot were listing) mount it yourself and chop the rest off. Then you won't have to pay the shops price for the y-pipe. It'll come exactly as pictured, including that flange where it mounts to the mid-pipe. All my exhaust shop had to do was weld on a new flange to the mid-pipe where idiot P.O. had turned my entire exhaust into a welded one piece affair. *edit-whoops, didn't catch that very last paragraph, you have the right idea already

That Brat doesn't sound too bad, I'll give the straight pipe a listen for a bit as I have to lop off the muffler anyhow and see if I like it that way.

Is that the only way to mount one of those?

I've been combing the threads and watching what few videos there are trying to make a decision on a (low-cost) muffler replacement and I'm still not decided/convinced. Sube in question is an '88 SPFI d/r with almost new y-pipe/cat, no resonator (mid-pipe was replaced by p.o., I believe 2" diameter...have to measure), and a stock muffler that is developing a hole in the front. I'm not looking for loud noises!, just more of the low-tone boxer rumble. So far the only thing I'm sure of is a)do not want it straight piped and b)cherry bombs are too rough. Atm, it's a toss up between getting something like the Dynomax turbo mufflers, or just a straight-through muffler. As it is with the small hole in the stocker, the rumble is there, just barely noticeable. Advice, and preferably some more soundclips, appreciated.

So recently i had my check engine light pop up, ended up being a code 34, "egr solenoid". So I cleaned it and tested it by the books, it checks out as good, cel goes off after reinstall. But now the check eng light will come on and go off at random, with no corelation to any factor such as engine temp, load, etc. Sube is running absolutley perfect regardless but the cel has me baffled. Help? Don't want to blow $60 on a new sollenoid and have it not fix the problem, also leery of faking it with a 35 ohm resistor as it could mask the problem.

Replaced crapped out original u-joints in the driveshaft (had to have the old ones punched out, $$ grrrr) and an oil change. Nothing spectacular, but the weird low-speed clicking from the rear is now gone, and the engine is purring nicely with the new batch of 5w30 in her.

Okay, the low-speed tick-tick-tick from the rear end was definitely the rear half of the drive shaft; rear-most u-joint had phenomenal play, and after dropping it out of the wagon and driving it around without the rear shaft voila, the sound is gone. Yay. But now..... How the hell do I remove the u-joints? Mine are not held in by snap-rings, they're held in with some sort of machine staked in ring, with staking marks all around the ring. The new u-joints from the parts store do indeed come with new rings, but how do I get whatever those are out of the yokes in the first place to remove the u-joints????

Is the rubberized carrier bearing something I'll have to try to get from the dealer? I can't find it at any online parts stores, and I'd rather avoid grabbing one from the pick'n'pull. Mine isn't real bad, but when I replace my u-joints I figure I may as well replace that too.

Yeah, you should've heard the front of mine when I bought it; sounded like someone trying to cheese grate a block of aluminum :-p As for the noise, I'm pretty sure it isn't harming anything, it's just really annoying. Did get under her again yesterday (bless this unseasonably warm spring in Colorado!) and the u-joints on the driveshaft are indeed toast, the rear one the most. May be the problem, we'll see after I replace all three bearings and the carrier just for assurance. By the time I get done with this wagon I'll be able to sell it as NEW lol.

Now I'm less concerned about my mileage down here in Colorado Springs, as it's about the same as yours with alot of in-town driving and doing 75 on the hwy to Ft. Carson (with severe lead-footing to match speed on the on ramps). I guess the altitudes here have some say in our slightly lower mpg.