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SmashedGlass

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Everything posted by SmashedGlass

  1. On the tank capacity issue, I fill up when my needle dead-centers or goes just a hair below the E line; last time, I ended up putting 13.6 gallons in her. I never get a 'low' light, don't think mine is functioning, and I don't trust "guessing" (hoping) that I have another 2 gallons left at that point. As to the part you posted from RA, that's a temp switch, not the sensor unfortunately.
  2. More rapery of the two fresh-kills in the local p'n'p netted me: -good to great condition door cards front and rear. -a working digital clock (finally, 3d times a charm). -uncracked/scraped tail lights. The replacement of all the stuff the P.O.'s pitbull pup chewed on is coming along quite nicely The complete trip computer assembly is a no-go, I just don't have the resolve to hack into the wiring etc enough to make it work. It did, oddly, come out of an '85 wagon with analog dash, which AFAIK the trip comp should only have been in the digi-dash Soobs??? Anyhoo, if anyone wants it it's theirs.
  3. What brand/type of tires are on it, and what condition are they in? Mine had severely worn winter tires on it when I picked it up, severe as in there was cupping on the outer tread blocks. This made a sound similar to what you describe in words on hard top at speeds above 35mph. Also had bad bearings in the front passenger hub, but that sounded more like a low growling noise.
  4. Getting ready to build up some tunes capability for my '88 wagon Subi Q; I'll be keeping it simple with a Sony DSX-S200X mechless receiver paired with quality 6 1/2" components for the fronts (no rears) powered by a small 2ch amp, and a single powered sub for some low-end. My question is, in the wagons will a single 10" sealed sub be enough or do I need to bump it up to a 12" due to all the open space? Not looking to blow my doors off, just need some quality bass for my own listening pleasure. I mostly listen to alot of electronica--d'n'b, breaks, real dubstep (i.e. not that Skrillex crap), glitch, deep house, etc.
  5. Went to the p'n'p and raped the bejeebus out of two fresh Loyale's. Kinda had some competition going on, a father and his teenage daughter were snagging parts to fix up her Soob :-p They got the good fenders off both of 'em as well as the only good hood S'okay though, from the number of body panels they were going after I figure her wagon must've been in pretty dinged up shape. I snagged and installed: almost mint condition front buckets and rear bench seat, complete with good cargo carpeting..... a new un-busted third brake light... replacement rear spray nozzle for my painted over one (idiot P.O...).... complete trip computer with all boxes and harnesses! (hopefully will work).... un-cracked grille, all three bottom studs intact.... lift struts for the tailgate that work even in the cold!..... hacked out the radio harness, as Mr. ************e Mechanic P.O. had basically destroyed mine all the way back up into the dash.... and a few other little interior odds'n'ends. Tomorrow is ball joint day prior to getting tryptophan poisoning from Fat Stupid Bird Day.
  6. Where I live along the Rockies, we have a rather bizarre weather cycle during the winter. We'll get blasted with a blizzard, and then over the course of the next three days or so it'll get nice and warm and it'll all melt. Then repeat. All winter long :-p I've seen it go from a high for the day of -4F to being 50F+ by the end of that week. Love it.
  7. Just realized the Zovac's are 'uni-directional', which makes tire rotation easier and more economical. I think I'm sold
  8. No, I haven't found the iPikes in a 185, which is why I'm looking at the Zovaks. As for those Winterforces..... only come in a 155 for 13 inch. Pizza cutters!
  9. I'm getting ready to replace the rubber on Subie Q, and would like some opinions. Trying to decide between either Hankook Zovac W401's [185/70] or iPike W409's [175/70], without studs. Which one performs better all around (wet/snow/or dry times) and which is quieter... My wagon came with some pretty badly worn, studded (what was left of 'em) iPike 409's, and they sound like the Super Swampers my buddy had on his lifted 4Runner when driving on the highway lol. Rather loud. Plus kittens scrabbling across linoleum tile.
  10. How's the under-the-seat sub sound? I've been sort of looking at that option myself as I don't really want to impinge on my cargo space in the back.... and I'm waaay past the $2k+, rattle-your-rust-off sound systems, especially after having one such set up "liberated" out of my old 200SX I just need my music to sound good and full, not brain numbingly loud.
  11. Replaced HVAC controls in the dash, as they apparently had completely failed (wouldn't even click in, other than off button) with newer one from a Loyale (thanks mjdjdc). But........... did not fix lack of selection. Turned out to be a holed vac line off the manifold $25 wasted. Oh well. Live and learn. At least all the wiring under the panels is now properly tucked away and won't buzz and rattle against the panels anymore.
  12. Hmmm. After some digging around on here it seems........... I've been driving it like my old 200SX, which is to say LIKE A GRANNY lol. I didn't realize that you pretty much rev the piss out of the N/A EA's, and I've been lugging it with shifts around the 3k-3.5k mark. Will start romping the bejeebus out of it with shifts much higher and see how she likes it.
  13. 88 spfi wagon, which appears to do the following.... I've noticed that until the Sube is fully warmed up (after about 12 minutes run time, needle on temp a little below half way) I tend to get a bit of a stumble or gutlessness between 2k-3k on the tach. After she's warm though, she runs absolutely great (for all of the 90hp in her). So far I've checked the temp switch and sensor leads and connectors, as well as cleaned them as I read something somewhere about that possibly causing an issue; install clean air filter; and checked and properly gapped my plugs. What I haven't yet done are fuel filter, clean the MAF, clean the IAC (she idles fine, don't think necessary), or clean the TPS. Any ideas or tips?
  14. Today had my windshield replaced with the proper* and complete* seal set to the tune of $225. Frikkin DMV person wouldn't let me test in it due to a crack in the windshield; I look around the parking lot and I"m like "this is Colorado! 5 out of 7 cars that aren't brand new have cracks!!" Getting ones license reinstated in CO is a... witch. *PO didn't use the set with the corner trim pieces, and did a ************ey job of gluing it in to boot. They had to grind a little bit of rust out of the channel because of that.
  15. There's one waaaay down here in Colorado that needs an engine, has d/r tranny; they're asking $400 for it. Long ways to go for a Sube though.
  16. Where the heck can I buy them? Can't find them at any of the locally available parts stores, not even listed online Mine are in serious need of replacement, though the bracket bushes are fine... (for 88 Wagon 4wd d/r)
  17. Replaced passenger front wheel bearings, outer was.... missing a few balls and the cage :-p But job isn't finished, as Autozone kindly gave me two outer wheel seals instead of an outer and an inner. Apparently, AZ only carries the outer seal, which makes absolutely NO FRIKKIN SENSE. So, now waiting on a different auto parts store to get one in from across town... tomorrow morning.
  18. Aren't all of the brake drums available actually the same, as in they all fit all sub-models? Getting a little confused while shopping online as for some reason most of the vendors show the ones for "4wd wagon" as the most expensive choice, with one exception: a few vendor sites show the ones from Brembo and Winhere (with the same mfg part numbers?!) as "applicable to all submodels, all engines". mrph? Makes no sense to me with the possible exception of the hatchback (lighter weight) as the braking systems should all be the same. So can I just order the least expensive ones even if they say for FWD, etc? *actually, let me correct something: at Autozone, the drums for FWD sedan/wagon/coupe are the most expensive they offer....?
  19. Thanks MJ, I'll let you know. Going hunting for next week for that 100lb line and to the yard for windows, this weekend I have a narrow weather opportunity to do my wheel bearings/tie rods/cv axle so that's what I'm concentrating on.
  20. The Autozone chain of stores carries one very similar by Dual, and I've been considering it or ordering a slightly more feature packed (read: more RCA outs) version directly from Dual. They sound like a great deal; what I hear inside the car is more important than impressing people outside the car, I've given up on the $2000 sound system a long time ago.
  21. That's some really disheartening news about CCR. They were apparently the place to go for good rebuilt sube motors in the past. :-\
  22. That suction cup is a good idea, hadn't thought of that, thanks. I think I'll also go downtown this morning and nab some used guitar wire from the guitar shop... wish the piano shop hadn't closed, that would probably have been a better source. BUT........ now I have to wait a few days to even think about this repair as we got about 4 inches of snow yesterday but it should be in the 60's again by Saturday. Gotta love Colorado!
  23. That does help a little, thanks. I guess I'll go "practice" a removal in the pull'n'pay to figure out all the trim removal.
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