SmashedGlass

Ick, not sure about using a food product as a cleanser lol. Yeah, not looking for the 'protectant' stuff (I've heard stories about what it does long-term.....), just a good method to get it clean. I'm a bit OCD about cleanlines.

Looking for recommendations on how to get the vinyl and plastic bits of the interior looking as good as they can. I've already gone through and scrubbed everything with a mild dish soap and water solution, but it doesn't really eat up the dirt without a lot of work, and still kind of looks like a dog's rear. A mild (very mild) de-greaser perhaps? Trying to avoid any of those Armor-All type products, as they're not really a cleaner but a 'protectant'. And they're a bit costly. Previous owner was obviously NOT the most hygenic person, and his puppy apparently really really liked the taste of vinyl.

Lol, the 'original poster' here. So what I'm gathering is NO.....unless I make some adjustments such as advancing my timing (which I did on my old 200SX twin-spark piece of sh...beautiful classic ) and perhaps put a blaster coil in. I'll just keep running the cheapo stuff until then. Thanks.

I just read an older thread and stumbled on to this: "Another thing to consider about CO is that your car will run differently with the thinner air. You'll notice a little less power, naturally, as the ecu compensates. SOA suggests that you run 87 octane or higher gas above 5000 feet elevation. I usually have a blend of regular and plus in my tank since we're cruising around at 6700+ and rarely go lower in Durango. It seems to make the car more happy - i.e. run more clean and with more power." (member: Kanurys) I was wondering this myself as I drove my new acquisition [spfi ea82] home over the weekend, as I had just put $10 of 85 in to get her home. Would running 87 octane really be beneficial? I've never understood why Colorado has 'regular' gas at two points below the rest of the country. I'm at just a hair above 6000' most of the time, and when I get up into the mountains I'd be above 8-9000'.

Sounds like a crap remanufacture to me. I'd take it back for refund/exchange.

You can do the "loan-a-tool" thing at places like Autozone for their 'thread restorer set' or just out-right buy a metric tap & die kit from the same for roughly $20. Don't tell them what you're doing, go in as if you know exactly what you're doing and they won't be able to insist they sell you the wrong tool.

Lol, same here just this afternoon. Drove for the most part absolutely fine the entire 25mi ride to her new home (including a stint on the highway @ 70!), but I'm fairly certain I'm in for replacing both front hubs bearings. Made a rather interesting growly noise at speeds above 35mph and hubs were HOT when I stopped.

Went to look at an '88 GL wagon today with D/R; it's almost completely rust-free and no major body damage but the interior is pretty chewed (literally....pit bull puppies are hyperactive lol) and there are some other deficiencies but overall it runs great and all the mechanicals appear to have been well maintained. My question is, how can I be certain the 4wd works before I decide to pay for it? I didn't feel or hear anything noticeably different while driving it around the owners property and shifting thru 2wd/4hi/4lo, all I got to indicate anything was the "LO" light on the dash cluster. Since the wagon would require a long visit to the beauty salon, the only thing that is keeping me interested in paying is if all the mechanicals do indeed work. I'm a noob at the selectable 4wd thing, previous (briefly owned) old Sube was an RX with the full-time dual range.

At risk of getting flamed for reviving a year+ old thread, it it possible to mount the XT6 oil pump to the EA82, as they're very much related?

Oh there'll be pics, probably a thread...a very slow thread (lack of time+resources+cash money). The intention is along the lines of "TheLoyale" style project. There's alot to explore along the Front Range in Colorado that I haven't been able to do over the last 10 years due to a facination with rear-drive snot rockets. This should fix that.

Well, the rump roast-clown that owned the '91 sold it last nite after telling me I could come look at it again and make a final decision TODAY. So it's the slightly uglier but mechanically sound D/R '88 I'll be picking up tomorrow.

And that would only be good until the moment the person put their hand on the 4wd selector

Isn't there anyone making these for the L series in the States? I seem to remember there being someone on here several years ago that had them. If I remember right, there was even one with attachment points for a small snow plow lol. It's been quite awhile since I was on here regularly, say around 2007, back when I briefly had an '88 RX... sadly gone. I know there are a ton of them available in Australia, but shipping (if they even would ship to US) would be murder. I'd like to get ahold of one for the Loyale I'm about to snag.

I'll stick to Sylvania Silvers. They light up enough for me to see, without completely blinding everyone else. It's what I've put in every car for the last 12 years.

That's my point, and the point in this seller's favor: if the body is straight, everything else is a pick'n'pull away

Tap & die are actually quite easy to use. Just work slowly. The hard part is that more than likely you're going to have to go up in size on the stud since your OEM won't stay put. Or you'll have to drill out and go the helicoil route :|

it's north of 200K, but so is every old Sube in Colorado lol. But I did get to hear and see it running, as the owner was out gassing it up when I got to his house and had to wait for him to get back. Runs like a top it seems.

Just got back from taking a look at the 91 Loyale... in the midst of a torrential downpour lol. NO RUST. This is a major major plus favoring it over the 88 GL that I'm also considering. Only damage is a dented passenger fender and missing grill; paint looked amazing for 20 years but then she was wet with rain. Interior fair to good condition, push-button 4wd, all power options. Only needs a new battery and eventually cv shafts. And the owner dropped his price. The fact that the 88 has been somewhat more neglected (trashed inside by pet dog) and a bit ghetto-fied (spray bomb flat black rocker panels? c'mon...) may have pushed the fact that it has d/r out of the picture. The straighter body wins, as I can grab a d/r if I really want one from the local pic'n'pull. Probably sign the title on the Loyale Thursday

Okay, here's the rub. I'm down to deciding between two Subie's up for sale at the moment; the 88 GL with dual-range, and a 91 Loyale with push-button..... Which would be the better choice, all else with the wagons being on par? I plan on doing some limited off-roading, but not any serious rock crawling or anything, lol. The plan is to have this as my year-round, practical vehicle, especially for during the winter.

That's what I was figuring, just couldn't remember for certain with all the combinations over the years. Was looking for the sticker (can see now where it used to be) or the fat handle for hi/lo from the EA81 years. Hopefully be picking this one up by the weekend for $700, 99% rust-free but needed some interior love. Thanks guys.

I'm back in the market for old Sube's again but have a question: how do I visually tell if a particular Sube with 5sp manual has the dual-range transfer? Aside, of course, from the obvious lack of the orange button atop the shifter. Included is a pic of an '88 GL wagon I'm looking at, owner isn't the actual driver/operator and couldn't tell me if it was or wasn't. Thanks in advance.

That's the info I was looking for. There are I think two gl-10 turbo wagons in the yard atm

The question is, what if that XT6 in the yard is gone before I get to it (should I even acquire the XT6 that is for sale). Will the 5sp D/R from an EA82 bolt up? Those are plentiful in the yard at the moment, and always are.

I have the opportunity to pick up an '88 XT6 that is in great shape, but the only niggling problem is that it has the 4EAT. Besides a manual 5-speed from another XT6*, what other Subes can I grab a manual transmission out of, and what all should I grab? *there is a manual XT6 in my local pick'n'pull; engine gone(?) but tranny for some reason left behind(?). I just don't know how long it'll remain there.

I believe it's blu-ish, at least that's what the badly peeling tint off the rear window looks like.....speaking of which that makes the tint issue moot, as I'll have to get the whole car re-tinted at some point.