SmashedGlass

Anyone ever swap one of those in to a GL/RX? They're rather dirt cheap from what I've seen pop up on the importer's websites, but I'm not sure if the second turbo would cause interference problems or not. I know it's only rated at like 160hp, but it should have potential....and did I mention they're cheap? And the word 'twin-turbo' always gets the ladies

Haha, yeah, on every car forum I've been on the "hardcore" engine-swappers always poo~poo people who try keep the 'nice' things, like power steering and a/c.....I've come to the conclusion that they either all live in places with rather mild summers, or below 6000' altitude (hi alt+sunny day=death beams at any temperature).

Yes, everything else works fine (i.e. heater, defrost, even the frickin ICE cold and, I suspect, R12-filled a/c system); the only thing not working is the diff lock. And that's what I meant by not getting an indicator-the diff locked indicator on the dash. Thanks for the input guys, I'll get around to checking it when Mr. Blazing Orb isn't out trying to incinerate everyone here in Colorado. I'm just concerned about not having it operable because, though I have full-time AWD, I may want to do some light wheeling up in the mountains and having true 4x4 would be very nice....plus I like everything to work on my cars, regardless of how often or not I may use it.

okay, so I shouldn't even get a momentary sound of air...hmm. but where is the actuator located?

...tested out the 4WD on my RX this morning and there is no noticeable difference with the switch in the on position; I drove her in a tight circle with it on and with it off and got no drag, pop, shudder, etc. Also as I said awhile back I get no dash indicator for 4x4 though I do get the 'Lo' indicator when I shift from AWD Hi to Lo. So I'm guessing it doesn't engage when switched. I do hear a momentary hiss of air when I work the switch (perhaps a second or so) which tells me the switch itself works, but where does it go from there? I can't find any clear information in either my Chilton's or Haynes relating to the full-time AWD & 4WD system that is on the RX's and GL-10's. Help!

Blown shocks shouldn't cause it to lower; worn springs, however, would.

i was working the warehouse party until the sun came up, and didn't wake up until noonish. :-\

So, are we set for noon(-ish) on Sunday?

wtf?? i think i paid about $15 for my sensor @ Checkers.....weird, man.

*bleerily raises head, and one eye-lid, after pulling 24hr duty at work*

Here (and on a mil. base, where it's SUPPOSED to be cheaper but AIN'T): 85 octane: $3.21 87 octane: $3.31 91 octane: $3.43

Okay, so we're definitely on for the 20th? I'm in, barring any mischief and shennaningans causing a problem at the warehouse party I have to work Saturday night.

I went to my ex-fiance's junior year prom with her way back when.... We spent a grand total of, I think, 15 minutes at the prom and decided "this blows". So off to the club we went...still me in my tux her in her prom dress...then off to a house party, yet again still in tux and dress. I'll have to say the club and house party were much more entertaining than the dance. Formal occasions are way over rated, especially 'prom'.

Particularly, in the EA82T? I've been running premium (************ty 91octane in our neck o' the woods) on the premise that turbo motors require high octane; but I've begun to wonder. And remember: DONT BUY GAS TOMORROW!!! (15th May) in support of a national boycott of the american oil tyrannts. hey...it worked 10 years ago, lets try it again <1997, refusal of consumers to buy gas on one day caused an 80c drop in prices the next day>

Checking over the 'work' whoever the previous temporary owner of my RX had do the 'tune-up' (term loosely used here) put in Autolite plugs. Blech. Besides hunting down the proper NGK BPR6ES-11's which are surprisingly hard to find in the 'Springs for some reason, does anyone have any tested recommendations for plugs? I'll be running a Blaster 2 with 8mm plug wires.

Are you running the .8ohm ballast with the MSD Blaster? From the info I've gathered on here (prepping to put one in myself), pre-1988 cars will burnout the points using a Blaster if the ballast isn't used. You'll also want 8mm plug wires. Here's the relevent thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74615

These 8mm plug wires that have been mentioned-is there a set out there made for the EA82T, or are they just something like the MSD wires that you cut to length and assemble the ends on?

...anything difficult about it? I've managed to locate an almost completely intact (engine bay wise) non-turbo XT 4WD in a local pick'n'pull, voila there's my new Spyder intake mani! Is there any major alteration to be made when stuffing it into an '88 EA82T in my RX? Aside from the obvious like fabbing TB-to-MAF (or to TMIC) piping? So far at the yard I've pulled the top half of the intake off, not realizing til I got started that the Spyder is apparently two-piece as opposed to the single-piece casting of the one on my engine. I can't tell just from looking whether I'm going to need anything besides the upper and lower casting with TB or if I'll need any of the other stuff attached to the lower part [anyone confused yet? ]. What I guess I'm getting at is: do I need to grab the injector lines and anything else also, or is this a fairly straight forward swap? Thanks, slap me for babbling later.

I can agree with that to a point. My RX, though it has some surface rust at the side-skirt mounting points (just need to grind down through the paint to bare metal, fill and re-paint) seems to be top notch underneath. Though I wonder....Mine seems to have an incredibly good rust proof coating, that black bumpy kind, to the entire underside. Not sure if that's factory, or if the little old lady who owned her from '88 until her passing last year had that done after purchasing. The bumper and hood paint sure as hell took a beating from rocks, bugs, and other debris!

Right-O! Thanks much Chux. We should really sticky that kind of info in the suspension section.....

It's good information to know, Oog...I mean Daeron. I'll clean up or re-manufacture the plug while I'm at it, but I'm the kind of person who likes to replace as many bits as possible after buying an old-rump roast car (learned my lesson with the '90 240SX I have) so I'm also going to swap the sensor itself. Hopefully that cures it, or replacing the knock and O2 sensors.

blee..argh..snorgus. even the topic starter is distracted now.....

...are there any options out there for replacement? Obviously, Energy Suspension and Prothane do not have them lol. So far I think all I've been able to find even on the OEM end is tension rod and sway bar bushings. Would be nice to be able to replace tired twenty+ year old bushings somehow with something.

Okay, I'll add that to the list. I think I'm replacing just about anything I can just to be safe (has 148K on it) such as O2, knock sensor, etc. What's one more item

Lol, looks like I'm to keep spares of alot of things in the car at all times. So excuse me for being a bit EA-ignorant, but where is this ignition module? I can't find one for sale @ Autozone's site.