SmashedGlass

On my RX, when I flip the switch for the center diff lock to 'on', I get no indicator in the dash saying I'm in 4wd; I do hear the sound of a vacuum actuation in the dash when flipping the switch on and off, but no light. Any ideas why I get no dash indicator, and of how I can physically check to see if it's actually going into 4x4?

Been driving the daylights out of my RX over the last weekend (just got it registered..sort of) and I've noticed another hiccup with it. Sometimes it will go all boggy for no reason, off boost and at any rpm/speed/gear combo, and usually from leaving a stoplight or such. And I can sometimes scare the stumble into going away (lol) by simply giving the shifter a tap in whatever gear it is in, or just taking it out of gear-rev-reshift. I have no idea why or what it's doing but I somehow think it could be related to the boost solenoids?? It feels like a 'fuel cut' situation, but it feels like it goes away if I get into boost.... I don't know. Any ideas or help appreciated.

Okay, that's a bit of a step closer. Now we just need to find the free-lengths on them all.

Good to know Bratman. It would still be great if we could pool the info on free length, diameter, spring rate (stock), and block height for as many models as possible; that way it might give old Subie owners another method for improving their suspensions by being able to pick from a variety of springs. I sampled that search on Eibach, plugging in 10" free length and 2.5" inner diameter just as the 'toying' point, and it returned an entire page of available springs, from laughably light rate all the way to I think over 800lb/in!? So with the proper starting information, I believe it's feasible to build ones own custom setup.

I was tooling around on Eibach's website because someone on CarDomain.com with an XT6 mentioned (and had pics) of his car with Eibach springs and GC coil sleeves. Looked good, and he said it helped immensely in auto-X events. Problem is, on the Eibach site you cannot find any listings for older Subies. But..... You can input the specifications you are looking for [free length, inner diameter, spring rate, etc] and find matches! So, that being said, if anyone has the specs for front and rear springs on their Subes, drop them here or perhaps get a sticky going. I'd like to know for my RX so I can lower her a bit but retain a mildly stiff ride.

Thanks Ecky. I'll take that advice.

Okay, ya...the #8200/#8203 come with the .8ohm ballast in the packaging. I'm assuming that there is a stock coil that the MSD would replace in the EA82T somewhere; time to break out the FSM's.

Does the MSD Blaster 2 (pn# 8200/8203) require any modification to be installed, or is it plug'n'pray? And yes, I've done a search and couldn't find an actual thread on the install procedure.

theoretically, yes. i think all it would involve is opening the ECU and soldering in a length of wire between the ECU and light. i'd suggest trying it on a junkyard box first though, or have a back up ECU available.

I think its the pressure sending unit now; was driving her yesterday and she was doing the same thing (low @ idle, pegged @ load) and then the guage just cut out. It would cut in and out on it's own whim. Ergo, either the sending unit or a loose connection in the dash.

No, I believe the issue was just the switch for the drivers window, in the assembly; the passenger side worked just fine from the drivers switch assembly, until I turned it into a fistful of pieces. My drivers window switch felt like it wasn't 'clicking' properly, leading me to think it just needed taken apart and re-assembled but now I have no way to tell. Luckily the windows were both up when the switch exploded on me. As far as schematics I have none at all right now other than the PDF for the EA82T. Which Chilton's manual covers the RX? Ive found one in a used book store that covers Subes up to I think 1992 but doesn't mention the RX. It covers the Brat, XT's, Loyale, Legacy, etc.

Now, I've already figured out that the old Subes run at an alarmingly low oil pressure by guage (at least, alarming to people who've not owned them before lol) at start and idle. My question is, what should it be running at by guage whilst driving? My RX seems to almost tach-out, with the needle going to (what is it on there) 85psi?!? It may just be a pressure sensor in need of replacement I think, but Im not sure and a bit worried. "High" oil pressure is a weird issue that I've never encountered.

Looking for wiring schematics for my '88 RX, if anyone has them. At the moment I'm in need of in particular the wiring for the power windows/locks; if I can't find a new drivers side switch any time soon, I plan to just hot wire it in order to crack the windows while toying around in her....because Sweet Sister Summer has decided to pay us a visit here along the Front Range, and @ 80 deg F the interior gets a tad OMFGImBoilingInMyOwnSkin! hot.

yes, i already contacted TWE...they have one left of the group-buy production run they did, and they're asking about $500 for it; they have no plans to do anymore... a bit on the steep side for me at the moment.

Quick hypothetical question: could an up pipe (header) made for the WRX 2.0 be made to work on the EA82T? I already realize the EJ is a two port whereas the EA only has one port per side. But if the points where the manifold MOUNTS are in the same position...........heehee, break out the torch boys... idea behind hairbrained scheme is simple: there are plenty of cheapo ones available on eGay, and it may be simpler and cheaper in the long run to simply modify the EJ piping for the EA than to have another custom one made (@ average $$ of over $500!?!)

hmmm....i smell a need for a full-on sticky on how to do this, after the guinea pigs have finished it that is

1988 RX Turbo Coupe.

I was fiddling with my driver door power window & lock switch today, trying to see if I could fix the passenger window switch, and it...just...exploded on me. Plastic bits and electrical contacts everywhere. Anyone have the whole assembly for the drivers door they would be willing to part with??? Thanks in advance.

Thanks. I'll post pics as soon as I can get her over to where I live, and after a bit of intimate cleaning. She's in good shape physically and mechanically (got her to bark all four, stock, on asphalt in 4lo+diff loc!?!) but she's a Dirty Girl haha. May even have to use a spot of glaze on the paint, cuz it only qualifies as 'Arctic White' if Subaru meant 'Artic A Bear Peed Here White'. Weather hasn't been nice to cars this year in Colorado.

New to the old subies; what options are there for the suspension, for instance springs and shocks? Thanks...be gentle.