SmashedGlass

That's perfect. Tomorrow I'll take the grinder to 'em, all the way to glide rail

Now that I've (re) acquired the proper front seat belt buckle assemblies, I need to pull the seats I put in and grind off the extra rail material they added to the Loyale seats with automatic belts, as the rail now extends to where the GL belt buckles bolt on. But I don't have a clear memory of exactly what the GL inner rail looks to tell me where to cut. Can anyone snap a shot of their GL front seat for me? Here is the area on my replacement seats from a Loyale: That bigger bolt at the very rear is where the GL buckle goes, and won't fit with the extended Loyale bracket.

Repaired my torn inner d/r shift boot using............."shoe goo" and a patch piece made from one of my failed 29er bike tire tubes Hey, it works, no more road debris coming up into the tunnel and console.

Could you explain it a little more in-depth, maybe with pictures, JJ?

I've got my bumper completely apart and will be cleaning up and "rust controlling" the various pieces, but while it's apart it got me thinking..... How is everyone mounting their fogs to the bumper? The actual metal bumper doesn't extend far enough out to offer a surface, all that is up front under the plastic cover is....... STYROFOAM. I see no way of rigidly mounting the fogs above or below the bumper line; perhaps I'm missing something?

I can second the 14mm bolt method. We've used the same technique back in my Army days countless times; take a bolt with the right size hex head, and weld another nut on the bolt shaft to give you a place to wrench.

Slim fit 12" fans are available in plenty on Ebay, as singles or pairs, and you can also pick up complete wiring kits for them there too. It's rather simple to wire up, Jezek has done a good write-up on it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ (his 'bandwidth' for the photos gets exceeded all the time, so you will have to view the above through an ip hiding site such as hidemyass.com in order to see them if they aren't visible)

I'd pull it, Nick. Unless you live somewhere completely arid, like Arizona-Nevada-SoCal, the padding will never dry out. It isn't that hard (except getting it from behind the blower motor housing--I cut mine to alleviate that problem), and you'll be able to salvage the carpet itself. As to the padding, I replaced mine with some Ultratouch Radiant Barrier that I picked up at Home Depot, it's like the jute padding but has an aluminized outer layer on it. It's easy to cut, and I left the four main pieces loose (glued the tunnel pieces onto the carpet) in case it ever gets wet again, so I can quickly pull the padding out without having to completely remove the carpet.

Lol, from my experience, let me tell you.....that carpet is going to stink. The jute padding underneath NEVER dries, and will start to mold and mildew. I had to remove my carpet, rip all the padding off, and replace the padding with new after a persistent windshield leak that I didn't notice because I wasn't driving mine regularly.

You should still be able to pop the clips along the bottom of the panel, and that may give you just enough room to slide an arm in to reach the rods to the lock. Might have to employ a small child or a skinny wife if your arms are too big.

In the US market 3d gen Subarus, the bumper lights are only for turn signaling and not lit up at any other time.

You are asking for an almost immediate explosion of internal parts. Even the EA82T, built (obviously) for boost, is notoriously weak. Boosting a stock n/a EA82 is just going to be a short-lived experiment ending in danger.

*smiff* this smells (ba dum dum tshhhh) of.......................... HOMELESS GUY!

I don't know that any suspension work short of fusing everything solid (ha!) would help with that wind. As you mention, your wagon is the not-so-stable combination of fairly low weight and a higher, slab sided profile. I've ridden in heavy duty pickup trucks on I-75 going down south of Pueblo CO to the Sangre De Cristo mountains, and every time we hit that one stretch of highway with the "high wind" warnings......that pickup was getting rocked. Sometimes hard enough to nearly change lanes. The best cure: being alert, and bigger forearms.

The US market markers only have two bulbs that are both lit when the lights switch is any position other than off, no turn signal. Which is stupid, as your front signals cannot be seen by anyone to the sides. And, how much do you want for one of those sets?

You'll just have to work slow and carefully using the same tools you did on the windshield. And let me know if you manage to get the drivers side one out intact, I need one

Got mine off FleaBay. T10 5SMD for the main illumination and turn signals, T5 inverted tip for all of the idiot lights and other lighting, and two T5 3SMD for the main illumination in the two side clusters (HVAC controls and Hazards; these are the two I need to flip around). I'm going to eventually rent a carpet cleaner with upholstery attachments from a local store to do my seats and door fabrics.

In a two-seater cab like that, one really only needs front-stage speakers, either door, kick panel, or (if possible) top of dash mounted. Add in a small powered sub, like one of those ~$100 under seat 8" or 10" that are all over the internet for sale, and you'd be more than happy. No need to cut down on visibility by modifying the rear glass.

John, I have that face plate out of my wagon, AND the cubby pocket that fits in that empty slot. Want it? Wait, maybe I don't.....I'll have to dig it out of the parts bin. AFAIK, my OEM one came out of a 3-door and clips onto the dash, not screws on.

Well, we can also rule out power windows for 'A', all four windows work.

I did the same back in '12, John. But I terminate the new wires for the rear doors at their connectors by the B-pillar, so I didn't have to fish them through the door looms.

That's a gorgeous little Subaru, even if it is only 2wd.

Project "Super Black" continues......finished buttoning up the dash and gauge cluster, and started two-toning the seats (for that super-groovy 70's muscle car theme). Went mostly without a hitch, the only real drama involving the Duplicolor being on the upper steering column cover. For some reason, even protecting it with a cloth while messing with the cluster, it started to peel off in little sheets, unlike any other surface in the car. It could be a slightly different kind of plastic (there are several and many different kinds I've discovered so far) which just doesn't take color at all, or I didn't prep it well enough. Finished off the afternoon by slotting the drivers seat and consoles into the Sube. Haven't even started on the door panels, they'll be going two-tone also just to keep a theme. Seats are still probably going to end up with some leopard-print covers on them. *EDIT: annnnnnnnnnnnnd.........the cluster surround has to come back out. Have to rotate the LED bulbs for the 'Hazard' and 'Fan 1-2-3-4', they aren't lighting up. Drat. Let's hope Murphy doesn't strike and something gets messed up pulling it back off.

Yeah, even if it's a 'digital media only' player, it still depends on the make and model. My Sony DSX-S210X DMP is just as deep as any cd receiver unit.

Yeah, to be be honest I think it was actually only $20 but it was a 'friend of the shop' hookup too.