SmashedGlass

Got around to getting started with re-installing the cluster and it's surround today, since all of my LED bulbs came in over the weekend, and the torrential rains ended last night. Noticed something odd though.... With no power (battery still out of car) my fuel gauge currently reads exactly half even though there is probably only one gallon left in the tank; unplugging at the tank end doesn't affect the needle, and the wiring from tank sending unit to harness plug at the dash checked out good last week. I did mess with the sending unit last week, taking it out of the tank to check the thermistor and try to clean up the potentiometer contacts. Any ideas? Is "half" actually the normal power-off position? If it is, I've never noticed that before... Like I said there is currently no 12 volt power in the car, and the wiring from tank to cluster was tested for continuity.

Selva, I think member "mm88swrt" has one or two factory OEM fog light assemblies, complete, that he will part with. Message him.

If you pull the struts yourself and take it to a small shop, they shouldn't charge you too much to swap cartridges into your struts. I think I paid $25 to have a pair done but that was seven years back.

OMG, yes, I want that part number too.

....but I have found my power window relay, and it is plugged in. If this is a 'dealer installed' setup, then it's damn clean, and so is every other one I've seen. Have yet to find one in a yard with power door locks (when I was still in CO) but 90% of them did have power windows. Matter of fact, I've only seen manual windows on DL's. This is what the neatly packaged ctrl unit, relay, and circ breaker look like on mine:

To clarify for Wagonist: this is an SPFI EA82 wagon. And, if my memory from messing with the underdash over the last two years serves me correctly, I now remember that my plugs C and D have never been plugged up to anything. The others, not so sure.

Oh yes, Gary. Back in Colorado Springs, I could go in to Heuberger Subaru and look for parts with the guy, and he would make sure by turning the monitor around so we could both look at the pictures. Here, it's a forty mile round trip to the dealer.

Hmmm.............maybe I'll just paint my with trim paint, and then glue on some cheap vinyl or rubber fabric/sheeting on the wheel arch parts, as they would be the frequent-contact patches...... Maybe......Thinking........

A colors: Green/White, Green, Red, Black ----- located at A pillar passenger ® footwell B colors: White/Red, Yellow/Black ---- located in steering harness C colors: Light Green/Red ---- located behind and to right of fuse box D colors: Yellow/Green, Black/Red ---- ^^^same E colors: Blue/White, Blue, Blue/Red, Green ---- ^^^same A is definitely not for the power windows. The wire colors do not match what my refs state. That relay (which is a square Mitsuba relay) is co-located with the power window control box and circuit breaker, which are grouped behind the passenger seat along the floor, just ahead of the B pillar. I'm leaning toward you being correct on the ones that were for optional cruise control (not installed on mine), but "D".....there is no switch mounted to or above the clutch pedal arm (as on the brake pedal arm, for the brake light switch). So I don't believe, now, that mine was equipped with one. I came across some other older posts where people mentioned they've always been able to start their 3G in gear and without clutching. **the bundle you see under the column that looks janky is from when this car had an interlock device installed is all. It has since been removed, but the taps for the two signal wires were left on the wires.

Have you given any of these panels a durability check yet, John? Enquiring minds want to know..........................

Just off the cuff, have you done the basic, "I just bought a car and I don't know it's history" maintenance/tune-up items? Check the air filter (obviously) and change the fuel filter.

Yeah, it took about ten minutes on and off of "hold" for him to even find the part number. Went through the whole "your VIN number isn't valid" exercise with him three times until the dim bulb in his head clicked that this was (as I stated several times) a pre-1990 car, and I had been telling him to try looking it up under 90-94 Loyale.

I do, indeed, have power windows. Do not believe this car ever had dealer-optioned anything, like cruise, installed. There's no evidence in the engine bay of it having been in there. What I think I've figured out for D by searching the books I have available, is that the carb'd cars used the same harness, but their clutch switch is above the clutch pedal whereas the m/t F.I. cars have the switch on the transmission. Which is just weird. Plug 'A'....still no clue. It may very well have not been connected to begin with. It's wire colors do not match to any of the power window system, so...........do not believe that is what it is for. I'll just keep my fingers crossed that everything functions when I'm finished.

Well....there are NO unplugged matching connectors left up in there. I'm stumped.

Not on mine. Final connections are at tje firewall, engine side.

D: would explain why I was accidentally able to bump the starter and have the car jump because it was in gear, right before I had the dash torn out. Problem: Cannot, for the life of me, find where D plugs in!!! Help? The end I show in the picture terminates into the ECU harness about five inches from the ECU. There is NO switch of any kind on or near the clutch pedal assembly. EDIT: ....apparently, the pre-1990 Subarus with M/T were not equipped with a clutch switch? Makes sense from an I'm-4wheelin-and-stalled-in-the-mud point of view, I guess.

I have found them online now! After getting finished with a rather uncomfortable phone conversation with my local Subaru dealer parts department, I got the part number, and their price---$247!!!! F that. A Googling of "Subaru fuel level sending unit 85111GA153" nets many hits, all in the comfortable price range of $40-$60. New. Also asked about the R-12 to R-134a retrofit kit......they have it. But forget about it. $319, for basically o-rings and a receiver/drier. I'll do it myself for about $60, thank you very much. Conclusion: Subaru dealer parts dept. is only good for helping you find OEM part numbers. I don't think the parts guy was too happy, as I let him know that, on both parts.

I can't seem to find any vendors online that sell replacement fuel level senders for the 3rd gen Subes.....I want to replace mine, as the thermister (for low level light) is shot and, after testing the potentiometer I believe the whole unit is on it's way out.

Hello, I have several harness connections that I cannot find mates to after I reinstalled my dash. Need help identifying what they are, and if they should be connected to something or if they weren't to begin with.... had it apart long enough to not be 100% sure. 1988 GL Wagon 4WD D/R 5spd, no power door locks, no sunroof. A: Passenger side, tan plug that was behind the kick panel. B: Two-spade connector on group of connectors to the steering wheel and ignition harness C, D, and E: Drivers side near and behind fuse box area. I know one or more of these are some sort of test plug, but I thought at least one of them was supposed to have a mate that you plug up to for diagnostics--no mates for any of the three. Thanks for any help you may offer.

Any little bit helps, I figure. It may not be a drastic heat reduction, but there was NO insulation from the factory.

Holy revival of the ancients! You'd be better off starting a new thread, Phil.

And.........after waiting for that damn blistering orb in the sky to get behind the trees (so that I just melt, instead of fry, in this sticky heat) reinstalled the new headliner and the 'super black' upper trim pieces. Two things: having an assistant would've really helped, and if any of you ever tackle recovering your headliner......wrap the material over on the front AND back edges. I didn't wrap it at the back, figuring the gray rubber trim piece would cover it, but as you can see over to the left side for some reason that trim doesn't lap over very well, and the cut edge of the liner is showing Going to have to try to get some adhesive brushed up into the channel on the rubber trim to help keep the liner stuck in; had I wrapped it over in the back as I did in the front, this wouldn't have been an issue.

....Keepin' them darn critters outta me bits. Swung by Dollar General this morning to pick up food for the kitty (and cinnamon rolls for me) when I came across an aluminum "disposable grill cover". For $1.50, and the fact that aluminum is even easier to work with than chicken wire, you can't go wrong. No more nuts and butts acccumulating under the air filter!!

Finished my headliner this weekend, pretty simple to do and not too expensive. Decided to NOT go with the crazy fabric though, just plain-Jane black headliner material from Joann Fabrics, and glued it straight to the old liner since it was in great shape (other than a few rips, gouges and stains) and still stuck like Chuck onto the board. Would've been nice to have had an extra set of hands on that project!!! I used 3M Hi-Strength 90 adhesive, you don't have much working time with that glue; you can see a few spots where the material didn't get pushed down quick enough, I'm going to have to figure a way to get something in those spots. Still, looks 100% better than the old light gray with stains and rips original color. Then got to thinking about how hot it is in my car, so early in the day already down here in Florida (was 90+ at my house today). There is no insulation above the headliner--at least there wasn't in my GL, I don't know about anyone elses 3d gen--so I looked into what I could do quickly and inexpensively to help mitigate and insulate. Went to the local Lowes and picked up a roll of Reflectix double-bubble reflective insulation for $16, carefully cut it to fit each section and wedged it in to the stiffeners of the roof. The aluminum furnace tape wasn't really necessary, but I like to be sure. The more rearward panels were wedged so tight that the tape is on them more as insurance that they won't move at all and make noise if the body of the car flexes. May continue with putting this on the inside faces of most of the plastic trim pieces, I have plenty left from the roll. Going to look at getting some Frost King closed-cell foam insulation from Home Depot for the outer skins of the doors next, sort of an inexpensive but good compromise between insulating and noise reduction.

Looks top notch, Lukas. Congratulations!