sube92

Some really do make it a long way. The paint is everything. I also noted some of the loyales had the newer "play doh" metal - some kind of treatment that is gray underneath the paint but obviously strong enough to stick forever and keep metal pliable. pliable steel is a buzzing steel, buzzing steel will never die with the tough paint . After getting into amateur welding with an auto dim helmet. I feel I can conquer even the photos 91loyale has shown us into pretty darn good looking.I saved an 87 bending badly to find there was no substrate from the factory on the drivers side! (I have no idea how it made it to 17 years with hollow thin sheet metal as a main beam). A few extra minutes beyond the factory's intense speed in manufacturing goes a few extra decades. To go that far with rust is way bad neglect. As if the rust spots on the surface weren't a tell tale sign to get after simple repairs. shame, shame. :-\

They really can go quite far with hardly any coolant. I first learned it years ago in a dl with no clutch fan to help in such a situation.Made a long journey no problems round trip. I just happen to check it to realize not much was in it several weeks later when I realized I had no heat and the second I filled it coolant came squirting out the little hose under the intake. Common sense really. All cylinders have air unlike an inline four which would kill itself if it was low at all near its minumum. airplanes are still taking off after taxi on hot days with an air cooled boxer and 50 year old parts clunkin around weighing in at 3000 lbs. All the old 912 porsches with a rear mounted air cooled engine and opened to be sporty took things in stride. Liquid cooling is for most engines. For subes it was to have heat.

I have now 5 of the alloy 15x6. I redrilled one quickly with a hub template. The center backplate is exactly the same size as a subaru, the center fits within an 8th of an inch .upon fitting with no tires on, I found they stuck out .25 inch. Just curious if anyone had photo of these hacked onto an old sube with a tire. here is photo:

I have an 87 also, and setting it up for endless trips. clutch fan from loyale is very nice, with its shroud (I made one) Take thermostat out and drill two 1/8th holes next to the air bleeder, one on either side. Position thermostat with said holes towards radiator.(The little valve that does absolutely nothing but aid in a delayed sticky thermostat and crazy coolant surges). After drilling this my intermittent weep hole leak stopped entirely, and my guage is 1/4 on the temp. A noisy rear end in any range is not good. Try repacking bearings with synthetic , retorque, but that is last cheap hope. I drove an 87 around with a hole in the wheel well and was quiet, because bearings were very good.It is a hoax about wheel wells and undercoating stopping noise. A content spin of anything, is a quiet spin even standing inches from it. New hubs are great with new bearings (60 bucks for a pair at rock auto) timing belts new if no record known... check tire ratings. Local trips on the thirteens do not reveal what 5 hours at 75mph does.. :-\ (I learned the hard way- on "90T" rated, those are nearly as good as it gets for a 13 inch rim. Bounced like basketball 700 miles from home.) other things: Exhaust pipe near the rear end is bad news too I wouldn't sweat minor oil leaks, the more the old sube runs, the less they leak it. Full spare, if going into no mans land, etc. Have a great trip. p.s. A gallon of coffee sized cup holder is always good.

Wow you wrote alot. Overthinking is never like overcooling... anyway, the ea82 subes are very simple. the water enters the pump from the bottom radiator hose drivers side, it pushes it into the block, heads and rises out into the intake, the heater core back to the thermostat housing to do it all over again. Can't forget that little hose from the center of the block that also returns to the thermostat housing. It plays with itself until it realizes there is a flow. The playing is the bleeder of air bubbles. Listen to the thermostat housing while it is running. even the tightest of ea82s give a squishy sound until contently open and flowing. So now there is 4 different pressures to play around with the thermostats stubborness. they still get stuck. A new one by any brand claiming to fit is a good one. I found "Stant" thermostats are simple, weak springed and allow flow sooner. There are not many probs that cause a demand for alot of air and hot idle: 1. clogged radiator that is really a tricky one. when runners in radiator are cool they are smaller, not flowing as much. Easy to check, just reach hand in after wot and find the cool clogged ones to see if they really are. 2. Heater core can be plugged and still not be a bother if all other parts are good. 3. the gaskets stretch under the intake. It prevents cool air for cylinders and hinders coolant. A double negative. (my guess is that is the problem). 4. All carbed subes without a clutch fan like a Loyale ought to have one. Now that they are 20+ years old (most of them), give the little buggy what it has always deserved and install one from a Loyale. 5. Hot firing plugs on a retarded timed engine (very thumpy idle) aren't helping unless all else is good.(rare prob) 6. Flushing the sytem is always good. I have run these half full of coolant and realized it ran better due to the fact the intake wasn't filling up with hot fluid, allowing more cool air into the cylinders, giving it more power and to breathe. They battle themselves with just one of the problems above and make it seem worse than it isn't. normal stuff like thermostat, first thing, should take you to more complicated quests to resolve if it didn't fix it. Oh: Don't Ever Use "Sierra" brand coolant. (it has a mountain pictured on the jug) Horrible Stuff. I have never found another brand that didn't work great but that stuff.

http://www.beltcorp.com/products/timing_belts/default.asp This is great topic. I found old subes can take a 20mm wide belt and they don't have one. This website had more than one match after measuring out what would fit.. I never got farther than that, but could be a realistic pursuit. The neoprene section especially. I only broke one, and it was surely my fault.The typical driver side- it was 8 years old and over 60k on it. The book also states that 55ft lbs should be tension. Subaru by oem doesn't even come close to that, so reefing on tensioner is a good idea while tightening, its kinda tricky.

hey thanks. the gas did indeed stop. As it turns out, they all gain pressure. The lense in question is on its last legs, an original from 1987. the chrome on the inside has started to disappear on the edges, etc. I watched it on high beam, and it is the metal case moving, not the lense. Be it is sealed tightly (the black ge silicone was excellent after all - I just won't count on ever getting it off the lense again.) I am going to zap my ugly lense with a welder. Maybe I can hook a chain up to it and tow the car afterwards... I used the ge silicone on my windshield, awesome stuff. Will seek out the other stuff mentioned, thank you.

I got a few spares to fall apart in a convection oven. They needed resealing. I used whatever I had laying around .. ge silicone 2... to reseal. good for 350 degrees. I waited the 24hrs with headlight out of the lense so it could dry. I tried it this morning and it expanded the lense right off the metal casing to let gas out! Is this a matter of waiting longer, or should I scrap the whole idea and rescrape it down to use something else. The original gray silicone was just that, I could smell methane after the oven, indicating it is a similar material to regular silicone. Any ideas?