winterbottom321

86 gl-10 turbo I have what I think is a shorting wire. I have had some signs of mice in the car. It is drawing 1 amp with the keys out on fuse 3 labeled "stop room ECC(B)". After endless searching here on the forums I can't seem to find a body wiring diagram for my year that shows the circuits on this fuse. Any help?

Fixed the lights. One of the main fuses under the hood had started to come out of it's crimped connector. So just to check, regular gl's/ loyales don't have a diode assembly that is capped with a blue plug down by the fuse box? How bout anyone with a green digital dash? Mine is the orange style. I'm just wanting to nail down for sure which cars I can find one in when I go to the yard. Weird thing is every thing is working right now with that thing unplugged. I guess I'm not a 100 percent sure on that because my air suspension I'm running manually with schrader valves for adjustment.

I've been trying to track down why my headlights don't work, checked the relays under the dash, bulbs, both fuses, bulb connectors, and now I'm looking at these black diodes that are in a cluster on a pcb and hook into a plug on my fuse box. I have the gl-10 with the trip computer. I noticed some major corrosion that had caused the traces on that pcb to disintegrate. I have no trip computer now. Would this be the problem with my headlights too that these diodes are toast or would my 2 year old jumping in the drivers seat and jamming the blinker/hi/low control in every which way have busted something that would keep neither high or low beams to come on? And what are all those diodes controlling attached to the fuse panel? I went to find the diode assembly on a loyale but it wasn't there, though the car was picked over, I'm pretty certain it has something to do with all my electronic digital dash stuff. Any help would be great. 86 gl-10 turbo 4x4 auto

Are you sure about rx's and no scoops? I've seen a factory looking hood with an air shroud that directed the air down to the turbo. In fact the guy drives it around here and he isn't the kind of guy to mod his Subaru, he's overweight and is clueless to the fact he is driving a old Subaru jewel. I think it is a fulltime rx turbo. Anywase I put a hood scoop on my gl-10 turbo. Just make sure it isn't wider than the edges that run down the center of all gl's hood, otherwise it would look silly trying to get it to work. Mine works and looks great with my saab intercooler under the hood. Before I would go up 7+ miles grades and get out at the top feel how hot the intake was with my hand on the "4wd Turbo." Used to be scorching but now with just the intercooler it is cold to the touch at nearly ambient temperatures. On the wheels, I can't get pugs where I am at so I'd either forget it, redrill to chevy 6 lug, buy adapters from sjr lifts for vw or send in your hubs, or buy wheels from allied armament (though I've heard they aren't selling them at the moment. Hope that helps

well the diff gears in the front are in pretty bad shape as the owner before let the oil leak out of the spline shaft seals go too long i.e. no oil. Changing the oil in the diff didn't help a whole lot in the growling noise and loose gear meshing from the wear I can only imagine happened. So I picked up a factory new front diff (at a steal or I wouldn't of ever dreamed trying to change it out.) From the looks of it it is just 9 or so bolts from the tranny into the diff and then about equal amounts of bolts from the inside of the bell housing that run back into the diff. I've searched and haven't found much on people actually cracking the 3at open on the front end to replace the diff. My modulator is in good but I'm going to get a new one with the swap just so everything is back to the way engineers designed it. I haven't had erratic shifting at all. Like I said the tranny drivability is still great, it is just the whining diff that I'm looking to nix. I'm curious, the shaft that will mate up with the torque converter, there are no splines, how does that hook up? Here some pics of what I'm looking at, notice the factory new paint marking on the gears.

Not to hijack but I'm about to pull my 3 speed auto to replace the front diff housing portion on my 4x4 tranny. Wife will just not let me put a 5 speed in. Is there anything I should know perhaps tools, procedures, or gaskets between this unit I'm putting in and the flywheel housing and the tranny itself? I have never taken an auto transmission off the engine, torque converters have always been this elusive thing I knew was right behind the engine but never see it. I think my torque converter still has plenty of life left but should I watch out for anything in there while taking the tranny off? Also, this may sound stupid but can I change fluids in the tc? I don't think the fluid in there circulates with the regular tranny fluid loop. I've got the manual for how to keep your subie alive but it is pretty brief on auto tranny repair specifics. Thanks for any help

I just got 28 in my sub from Seattle back to Pullman. There is a great tail wind across Washington. Though I got 25 the other way with 2 bikes on back and full to the top with gear and 3 passengers. 86 gl-10 Turbo wagon 170,000 / 20,000 since rebuild don't know what condition the tranny is in but the front differential gears have always made that gearing sound usually heard in old pickups when in 4x4. I think the biggest difference in mpg came after I changed both diffs oil, removed the water pump fan, leaned out the maf sensor as it was a rebuilt and was always pig rich before, and finally ran some injector cleaner for a tank. note: I drove 65+ most of the way. I really don't think speed has as much to do with mpg as does stopping and starting. That is what I have found anyway. In town I'll be averaging around 23.

So after endlessly reading every post on surging problems and replacing -cap -rotor -timing belts/ tensioners -o2 sensor -Coolant temp sensor and connector -idle air control -air filter/ oil filter/ fuel filter and finding no problems with fuel pressure or injectors I have finally found my problem. It was the exhaust recirculation valve above what I believe is cylinder 1. I pulled off the two bolts by the vacuum valve, slipped a flat piece of tin can in between the valve and the intake port, tightened it down and viola no more huge cut out. It used to be so bad that every morning at the first stop sign I would have to make sure no cars were in sight before I'd pull out. It always sounded like cylinder 1 was missing to me. I'd let off the gas and the hesitation would decline, or if I stomped on the gas the boost would eventually overcome it after about 2-3 seconds. I can't believe it was that simple. 86 gl-10 turbowagon 170,000

I don't know about changing the oil in them but I have to get this off my chest, I'm running air shocks right now on the back and I wouldn't trade it for any coil over setup. My current set up is that I made a tube with an o ring that goes to a shrader valve (like the one on your tires) and I pump my airshocks up to whatever height I want. If I want to let air out, just hook a 9v across the solenoid valve wire to let some air out. The sagging springs just can't match being able to load level. The handling is great and there is nothing like riding on air, especially on a washboard road. Coilover guys will swear it isn't worth the hassle, but like I have done, just ditch the computer controller and even the built in compressor if you like. No need to worry about the height sensors. Jack it up before you go off road and let it down on the road. Someday I hope to rig up a series of switches in my dash to control the solenoids and ride height. For me, I just felt like a lift kit was too intensive and overkill when I could use what I already have to get a few inches. Serious, when you manually inflate you can get a lot higher than the computer would normally go with the air shocks. I should post some pictures.

Gotta say I'm not too impressed with the sarcasm of a few on this thread. When I go from 6 starts a day, to not being able to crank over at all, having never moved the battery terminals or loosened them, I gotta say I was stumped. True, corrosion can cause these problems but it doesn't happen over night, that is why corrosion is a slow but deadly killer, especially out here in the dry climate. I cleaned the posts just a month ago. Their is something else going on electrical here. I'm thinking a bad ground somewhere as my dash lights still dim a lot with the blinkers on, occasionally losses the trip memory a and b when the car is turned off, and the Bosch o2 and ecu don't get along without surging like mad in the beginning 5 minutes. Aside from the ground from the bat to the engine block, what other grounds can I check to make sure they are clean and where are they? Downpipe does not have the bracket bolt into transmission hooked up. Is that a crucial ground point for the o2 to work right?

You were right, wierd, so the connections were fine to the battery before this whole shorting out and once I fixed the short the battery terminals need cleaning? That seems so odd that all of the sudden the terminals are just too corroded to start the car. I just cleaned them and it started right up. Now if I could just get rid of the stumbling and surging in the first 5 minutes of every drive.

Battery reads +12 but does drop to 11.5 when everything is dead in the car. It is not the battery, it is some sort of relay limiting the power to inside the car cause all the voltages at the battery and the coil are good while trying to start.

Not the positive red cable off the battery but the red fuse in the fusible link. The black box with four fuses, second one from the front of the car. Says .85 under the black cap. They are just copper wires meant to burn out with so many of an amp loading. I fixed that and all of them in there have continuity across them. I discovered that if I turn the car to start and everything goes black, if I turn it right back to "run" all my lights come back on. That is normal from what I understand that all the devices in the car cut out momentarily until the alternator is turning. But since all I hear is a click of the starter I don't get anything spinning. Coil has +12 from positive and negative posts on the coil. Do these have a starter solenoid? Would that have fried? If so where is it?

Well the red one burned but I fixed that, pretty sure the other ones are good but I will go double check with the voltmeter. I think from reading other posts it is the igniter that fried, not sure if that is in the disty or if it is the little black cube with a wire coming off the positive of the coil and then grounding on the engine. I know the battery is good, the coil is new, alternator is new, and the starter is new. So that leaves the distributer and that black box. I checked all of the fuses under the dash and one was blown, the "choke", "cruise". I assume that fried in this whole ordeal as I used the cruise as recent as yesterday. Going out to check the voltage from the coil terminals to ground.

They are good, the car has been running great for months like I said and the terminals are great. UPDATE: the starter does click like it is starting to crank but then stops immediately, and all lights go out. With the key still in the on position if I wait about 20 seconds the dash will eventually, slowly light up and all electric stuff will be active again. Weird.

So my dad and I replaced the t-plug in the back of the alternator with 2 separate crimp on connectors(they stayed on the posts and didn't touch each other or the alternator housing so I left it hoping all was well since I couldn't come across a good tplug. 2 months down the road now I look at one of the wires and see it is a little dirty/ corroded and so without thinking to disconnect the battery first for a closer inspection I accidentally shorted the heavier gauge wire (black and white colored wire) to the alternator housing which caused the red fuse labeled.85 to burn out (red one). Replaced that fuse, found a t-plug and fixed the wiring to the back of the alternator and now I turn the key, everything in the car electrically will turn on (fans, stereo, fan, wipers, ...etc) but as soon as I turn it to start cranking all power goes out. I think I hear a brief click but no cranking. If I pull the key out and immediately try to start again I don't get any power to anything. Have to wait about 20 seconds and then try again. Then I'll get power again to everything inside but will go dead when turning the key to start cranking. 86 ea82t gl-10 wagon