NoEyeSquareGuy

No Legacy wagon, no Outback sedan, no available manual with the Legacy GT wagon. I guess Subaru doesn't sell anything I'd buy anymore.

Not necessary to pull the engine. See instructions and pics here: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=470&highlight=engine+mounts

With vibes like that, I'd suspect that an engine mount or the transmission mount has bit the big one.

Odd... I can't seem to find one on rockatuo's website that's even nearly that cheap. The cheapest they offer is an AIRTEX piece for $62 and change, for an '01 Legacy. As far as extensions to reach the bolt, I use a 12" extension on a 12mm(I think it's 12mm, anyway, might be 13mm) deep socket. With a standard socket, a 12" AND 3" extension seem to work well.

I picked up a Bosch Silver battery from Pep Boys this past winter(they were the only one still open at the hour) for ~$86, after core return. 7 year warranty, I believe... should outlast the car.

I removed both from the "Y" of the Y-pipe after giving it a shot with worm drive clamps... they consistently needed to be tightened after a week or so, and I got fed up with it. I currently have both the pieces at the Y and those just after the cat clamped, and both still need to be removed. As previously stated, just don't go parking in long, dry grass with a stonking hot motor.

+1. Even some friction tape would be better than nothing... that's what I used on my Forester, and it looks like it was supposed to be there in the first place.

Anyone have a line on cheap knock snsors? I've long suspected that mine may be bad... rockauto.com's price is ~$86(!). Anyone seen anything cheaper?

+1. I clamped mine back down, but they'd only last a few weeks at best without being retightened. I ended up chopping off at least half the shields with tin snips(took a while), but much quieter now.

ebay should be your friend, here.

I'd have to disagree. My FWD Tercel with Blizzak WS-50s was far better in slush and deep snow snow than my wife's old Forester with then-new Dueler H/Ts. Crappy snow tires(Semperit and the like) may only be good for 15k miles, but a quality tire should last longer. By driving carefully and rotating often, the Blizzak WS-50s on my wife's pig of a Golf have nearly 35k miles on them, and should be more than adequate for the remainder of this coming winter. Sadly, yes. P245/75R16s and P265/75R16s are commonly available in no-name Chinese brands manufactured by TireCo for as little as $180, if you know where to shop. They're horrid. They're bad on dry roads and wet roads, and are so frightening on snow that I could not recount stories, or you would all flee screaming from the monitor. Typically they last 10k miles before they're corded in spots.

Most of us were born into it, and it's no big deal, as we've all watched idiots ditch their cars our whole lives. We also run great tires, or don't drive... bald tires up here means a sliding, ice, flaming death. I ran full-depth Bridgestone Dueler A/Ts on the Forester last winter and found it "inadequate." Snow tires aren't necessary, but it's hard to go back to all seasons after you've driven with the real thing.

General rule of thumb is that Subarus are like LEGOs... they're all built relatively similarly to each other, and are pretty simple to work on. Accessory belts are very simple to replace, timing belts and "while you're in there" jobs aren't nearly as simple, but are still a DIY job if you're handy. I'd suggest replacement of the water pump and timing belt tensioner, as well as a reseal on the oil pump in my "while you're in there" list.

I'd go with OEM Subaru wires and stock NGK plugs. The plug wires were only $39 or so for the SOHC 2.5 from subaruwrxparts.com then. I'm sure they aren't much more now. Same price as the parts store "specials", but far better performance and longevity.

KYB GR-2s being described as "too firm"? That's a first to me. They're basically just an OEM replacement(OEM *is* KYB), and really aren't valved in anyway condusive to performance. Nothing special. If your mechanic is used to driving huge '70s American sedans, then yes, they'll feel a bit firm.

There is no service interval. I usually change mine every 60k miles, as they tend to harden and crack due to heat and exposure.

I haven't had my headliner out to look, but I'm willing to bet that said rib is much like those in the '02 and newer Imprezas, merely there to support the roof skin, not to aid with structural rigidity. IIRC, the bit of steel there in the Impreza is glued in and in no way can be considered "structural." It could be trimmed or removed altogether, with the new sunroof frame there to take up the slack.

Replacement. Not real cheap, but it's the only real permanant fix.

+1 for Bridgestone Potenza G009s. I've had 3 sets of them(we used get them cheap at work) and for a basic touring tire, they're great. Pretty grippy in the dry, good in the wet, ok in snow, bad on ice, but all all-seasons are. For the money, they're good. I just bought set #4 for the Forester... we'll see how that goes.

Could the smoke be coming from the exhaust? If so, it sounds like a bad PCV valve. Had the same problem on my '87 GL. Cheap and easy fix.

I am... and don't call me Shirley.

I would just spend the money on a used complete or bare head; sounds like what's in there has had it. Do the timing belt and tensioner while you're in there, and the water pump if it hasn't been done yet.

IIRC, Suby Solutions/iPD sells overload rear springs for the OBW. Slightly stiffer rear spring rate with more rear cargo/towing in mind... should be a little more stable. They weren't very cheap, though, I don't think.

Is the radiator new-ish? Could be partially clogged internally if it's old. May also be air in the system, as the EJs seems to be a little more sensitive to that than the EAs.

Fairly normal, though it certainly sounds concerning in person. I have the same piston slap in my '01 Forester(88k miles), which goes away after 2-5 minutes of runtime, depending on ambient temperature. It's level of severity varies with engine oil, I've found... it's at it's loudest now, with Mobil 1 5W-30, lightly thinned out with Marvel's Mystery oil. The lifters are at their loudest now as well. When using this combo in the future, I'll probably switch to a 10W-30 when mixing and matching. Sure runs strong this way, though.