kklsmith

It's a 5 speed standard. I'm torquing it by hand w/rachet and socket. I wedged a long piece of rebar between the pulleys to stop them from turning and tightened as much as I physically could. I'd really like to be able to do this without stripping the engine compartment down to just bare motor since I don't have much time off and we're a two car family with both needing use everyday. Plus even though I have a Chiltons - I'm pretty much motor illiterate. Where do I find the flywheel or at least access to it? Ken

The crank shaft pulley bolt unscrews itself on my 93 Loyale. Any way to stop this? First time I chalked it up to the a/c idler pulley bearings going out and the idler pulley freezing up. Talk about a screecher! I've since replaced the bearing with new ones and the idler pulley spins just fine. It's been about a week since I did that job and my crank shaft pulley unscrewed itself again today. I've tightened this pulley screw down till the pulley itself turns and I can't torque it any further. Any suggestions? Thanks Ken

Thanks. My main problem was removing the pulley from the mounting bracket since it seemed frozen in place. But some penetraing oil and elbow grease got it loosened and removed. So bearing replacement I will try, especially since no junk yard in my area has one of these parts. I live in MT so used parts places fo0r Subies are a slim pickens. My next question is this - the retaining nut has a small thin tab protruding from the bottom edge of the nut - is there a purpose for that tab? Purpose as in if it breaks off I'm toast? Thanks Ken

I went to turn my heater on and there was this terrible screeching nose for a few seconds before I quickly turned it off. At the same time the alternator light lit up and I had no power steering. Stopped and popped the hood - I found the crank shaft pulley had unscrewed itself and both of my belts were loose. Drove the half block back home. After re-attaching the crank shaft pulley, I found that my A/C idler pulley is frozen stiff - no turning whatsoever. Is the A/C Idler pulley Assembly still available from the dealer? Thanks Ken

New belts. New timing belts installed @ 45 days ago. Ken

I have a 1993 Loyale, original owner, with engine ticking, and I assume it's the valve lifters. My wife took it in to a shop to have that problem looked at. I'm being told by mechanics, to include the Subaru dealer repair shop, that my 1993 Loyale does not have adjustable valve lash. No body has taken the valve covers off, but they're going by the Subaru repair manual. Do any of you know if there were any 1.8L Subie engines from the early 90's time frame that came without adjustable valve lash nor self-adjusting valves ? I being told it's a just a plain jane non-adjustable valve system engine. Ken

Anything else to check before I declare the alt as the problem?

This morning I went out to start the my Loyale and once again the battery is dead. It's been starting fine and been running around town since I thought the problem was rectified on the 12th. I jumped started it and letting it run. I took multi-meter measurements and the alternator is putting out 14.5 DC volts to the battery - which I take from reading as being acceptable. However, when I switched the meter to AC Volts at took a reading at the AC Volt 200 setting on my multi meter, I got a reading of 30.1. Did several readings as it's consistant at that reading. The reading was taken at idle. Since I'm the only one at home, I haven't checked at higher RPMs. Is this indicative of the diodes gone bad in the alternator? Thanks, Ken

Started with the clock - disconnected it from its power harness and the drain went away. The circuitry board on the clock was darkly discolored in one place as was the display. No discernable battery drain left. Left me wondering how can something so minute drain that much charge. On a lark, I connected the battery and turned the key. The fuel pump came right on and she fired up and runs fine. Obviously something I need to keep an eye on since before the pump didn't even come on - perhaps something due to our sub-zero temps the last few days. But it's been since the 1970's since I had an actual fuel line freeze and it ain't even what I consider cold yet. Ken

I live in Montana, my town has maybe 2 junk yards and Subies are a rare find there, however I will keep that in mind if it is indeed the fuel pump. Back in 02 I did find a replacement MOS there for $80 and so far it has worked fine. Just checked the prices on the fuel pump again - wow. Could have sworn yesterday I saw it on-line for $79. Now they're 250 - 290? What's the difference between a 90 Loyale fuel pump and the 93 fuel pump - they look the same but about $200 difference?

I have a Chiltons and I just found the wiring diagram. I think I will wait till tomorrrow before tackling that. It's 7 degrees and I'm doing this outside - in the 20's tomorrow. I'm leaving the neg terminal off the batt so it doesn't get drained. Thanks for everyone's help. I still have the lack of fuel issue to deal with also. Will try a hot wire in the fuel relay place to see if it's pump or relay. Can't imagine a relay costing more than the actual pump. Ken

First thing I pulled was the alternator connections - no change. Appears that the culprit curcuit is the Hazard/Horn/Clock circuit. At least according to the chart on the fuse box cover. When I pulled it -the meter read 00.3. I went thru the rest of the fuses and then went back and doubled checked. Second reading with that fuse pulled was still 00.3 I do have one of those notorious Loyale clocks that no longer keep accurate time. Always a different time when the key is turned on. So where to from here? Disconnect the clock from it's back side and see if it's the lone culprit? Hazards work - horn beeps. Ken

So something is stuck on and draining the battery? Time to start pulling fuses and checking battery drain? Ken

Finally was able to do this. On my multi-meter the choices of settings are 10A, 200m, 20m, 2000u, & 200u. Hooked up my multimeter and set it to 200m - reading was 165.7 - What does this mean or should I use another setting? Nothing was turned on - no keys in ignition. Ken

Thanks! I'll try the paper clip test. This oughta be just fun in single digit weather! Ken

Where is the fuel relay? I removed the panel cover beneath the steering wheel and looked around with a flashlight. Couldn't see any relays anywhere. IS it true this relay is $115!!!!!! I thought a relay was nothing more than a suped-up fuse with an open/close gate? I remember buying one for my old VW Jetta for $15. Ken

Tnanks for the replies. I bought a GE 2524 Digital multi-meter and I guess GE expects you to be electrical symbol literate because the instructions didn't explain the symbols on the meter. Finally tracked them down on the net - so I know what the symbols mean. Friday - I jumped the car again, drove it around, and let it run for awhile in the driveway. Got the meter to start the trouble shoot, went to open the hood and happen to notice two broken wires that appear to be out of a connector that should have 3 wires. A little investigation found they were wires from the electrical plug for the driver's side automatic seat belts which had stopped working months back. It stayed in the locked position so I didn't worry about it - just unhooked/hooked the shoulder belt and figured it was wear/tear from being 17years old. But since it sits just above the clutch and at shoe tip level, I think it was wear/tear from my foot. The empty connectors had reminants of broken wire in them and these were the only two loose wires with exposed wiring. Reconnected the wires to their connectors and low & behold my driver seat belt works again as does the associated ding-ding sound. Then I was called away to run errands for family. Saturday - battery wasn't drained/car started fine, but didn't drive it since I had too many errands to run and they required the van. Sunday/this morning, went out and started the Subie since we would need two vehicles for church and I wanted to make sure it started before family left. Started and ran fine. Then when it came time to depart, it restarted fine and ran for @ 15 seconds and suddenly died. Turns over but wouldn't start. I did not/do not hear the familar hum of the fuel pump when I turn the key on. Pulled the fuse cover and the fuel pump fuse looks fine and intact. Checked fusable links under hood and they appear fine. My next look is for the fuel relay. [B]Is there a way to use the multi-meter to check whether or not the relay is working properly? [/b]Or does this require a buy & replace test? Could my reattachment of the two loose wires cause the lack of fuel problem?

Have a 93 Loyale that has recently developed a battery drain problem. Battery is brand new as in less than 30 days. Battery drains overnight or at least when it hasn't been driven in several days. I can jumpstart the car, drive around town, and the battery charges. But then after sitting for several days - it will drain down to nothing. I'm the original owner of the 17 year old teenager so I know the alternator is the original. Also, just so you know - I'm not electrically literate so bare with me if I ask a lot of secondary - what's that?/where's that? questions. Where to start?

I guess I'm a little foggy here - where do I install the return spring? Ken

The hill holder on my 93 Loyale is starting to act up as in locking up at the inconvienent times. I've adjusted the spring tension via the dime thickness trick, but it still locks up periodically. Is there an easy way to disconnect it so that it doesn't work - period. Not like I use it. Thanks in advance Ken

Mine's a fetus: 93 Loyale AWD Wagon - 83,547. Bought it new in Aug 93. The miles are all mine. Thought about trading it in for a 07 Outback wagon, but just found out frigg'n Subaru did away with the 4 wheel drive on demand. Gas mileage on an all wheel drive Subie sucks and I like having the 2 wheel drive/4 wheel drive option. Think I'll keep the old girl for a few more years. Besides - she's a great fishing vehicle Ken

Try this thread. Answered my blower question. http://http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75132 Ken

Hey - my 93 Loyale resembles that remark. Hope you don't mind if I piggy back on this. No 1 & 2 speed - 3 & 4 work just fine. My question is: this a switch problem or a blower problem? Ken

Thanks for giving me an idea of where to start looking. After comparing the driver and passenger side automatic shoulder belts, I found the passenger side didn't return quite all the way to fully seat where it's supposed to. I found a piece of rubber that was bent down and blocking it's return. Rubber removed and she likes the feeling now. Ken

Wow - this sight is the gas! One problem answered. Now my next one. The seat belt icon is blinking on my dash board. I've check both front shoulder restraints - they lock up when jerked. Same with front lap belts. All rear belts also do the same. The manual says to see the dealer immediately. What does this blinking icon indicate? Thanks, Ken