Cold Chuck

Sube, Got it from this guy... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Right-CV-Axle-Shaft-85-85-SUBARU-ALL-SUBARU-All-Engine_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efca048c3QQitemZ270526335171QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories and it delivered in 4 days by UPS with tracking #. It is quiet and no more vibration or pulling anymore. I bought this on GD's recommendation. Works well for me. GD, I think both shafts are orginial. Car is 76,000 miles. The shafts has hump in the shaft and splined socket ends where EMPI are smooth shaft with smooth outer diameter of the sockets. The bearing cage just broke apart in 4-5 pieces and the balls was just between the socket (hub side) and the shaft end and thusly no power transferred to the socket. I apprecate your insights and time honored experience. I was, too, suprised to see it as I thought it would be driver's side problem given that it kept trying to pull the car to the left. Strange. Chim, I hope this is this is the last job I'll do. I'm a long time heavy truck diesel tech and used to getting BFH on everything. You could probably rebuild a older CAT 3406 engine with a hammer and crescent wrench. Right now, I run the shop not the tools.

Car finally quit moving. Found that pass side outer joint failed completely and the shaft was spinning but not transferring power to the hub. Put it in 4WD and went home. Next day, I pulled tire, brake caliper unbolted the swaybar link to lower arm, unbolted lower arm to chassis. Unpinned the axle and removed castle nut, simply tapping the axle end with a hammer and pulled axle out. Put on antiseize on splines, bearing surfaces and reassemble whole thing. Just for kicks, I removed the boot on old failed shaft, found the ball bearing cage shattered and ball just fell out of the race. This failure is on passenger side outside joint. Inner joints are ok. Drivers' side shafts are ok but I replaced both sides anyways. Whole thing took me 3 hours or so. I have air compressor and impact tools. ON EDIT: the boots are not torn or leaking. Grease still present and not milky or degraded anything like that. Just failed bearing.

A lesson learned: Decades ago, I was working for small car shop doing oil changes. One day, I was in a hurry and distracted abit, I performed LOF on a car and parked outside. Next morning, my boss got a phone call from customer saying there is a puddle of oil in driveway. He had it towed back to shop, I looked at it and found the drain plug had fallen off. An old timer told me this which I do pass on to my younger charges these days.... DO NOT PUT ANY HARDWARE (bolts, plugs, clamps, etc....) BACK ON ANYTHING WITHOUT TOOLS TO TIGHTEN FIRST AND DO ONE THING AT TIME. What he meant is that unless if you have the tool in your hand, do not reinstall the hardware back on because sometimes you can get distracted by something and forget to tighten. I hope this helps.

I am still ASE master certified medium and heavy duty tech with L2 endorsement. I worked for Kenworth, Peterbilt, International and Mack dealerships for decades then I left to work for fleet shop (mining) and now I am no longer wrenching, I'm one of those few guys working in managment and still have full set of tools in 90 something inches long toolbox. I have more than few guys in 60's and 70's years of age still wrenching on large equipment. Granted they don't do much of electrical/electronics work but they still work with their arthritics hands and back. I am always grateful for their years of exeperience and care in doing the job done right the first time. The higher ups in management always wants to increase productions but reality hits that in order to keep the overall cost down and increase reliability, we must take the time to do the repairs and preventive maintenance properly. In dealerships, I pretty much have seen them all as mechanic, lead mechanic and foreman. Some of things really disgust me more than service writer lying to the customers in order to 1) save company's face or 2) increase the bonus of service writer. Most of the truck dealer mechanics are not flat rate and they don't earn bonus at all. And yet, they have tool truck accounts, uniforms fees, safety boots, some of them have to pay off student loans, insurance premiums (believe me insurance rates for blue collar jobs are lot higher than white collar jobs!! ).

ordered 2 EMPI 80-5504 axles off ebay 51.95 each.

So is there a hand test to shake to see what falls out? Lift vehicle and shake the shaft to confirm?

Gents, While driving in 1987 wagon GL with 5 speed DR, it makes ticking noises (somewhere in the front) under power and goes away when coasting. Steering is fine. Now what is strange is that after sometime on highway that the steering wheel keeps tugging (like a child trying to pull and let go and pull again over and over) to the left and smoothes out when going faster than 45 mph. The steering wheel tugging gets real bad only when accelerating from slow speed or from stop and it goes away only when coasting or braking (no power). When the car is cold - it does not do that (exepting the noise) but when after driving for 10 or so miles -it occurs and progressively worse. Putting into 4wd makes little effect. Does that mean the driver's side CV joint is failing? If so, does anyone have a EMPI part number for both front axle? I dont know how many spline counts I have in the transmission. What about possible spider problem inside front diff? thanks

GD, I realize that scenario but perhaps I wasnt clear before, I am asking for general rule of thumb based on experience on what worked and what didn't For instance, it was said before that you can lift a GL up to 2-3 inches before you have to lower the transmission down in order to preserve the lifespan of the CV joints during typical street/light trail driving. Perhaps I should be asking for recommendation on what brand or make CV joints that I should consider in place of existing Subaru axle shafts. We could weld on parts together to make things work better or last longer at steeper angle. I take any of you and other member's word at my own risk and make best decision.

Esteemed folks, I need to know what is the maximum operating angle of the front drive shaft before it falls out of the sockets on EA82 with MT 5 speed dual range. I am considering installing subaru eA82 drivetrain and engine into a small buggy for trail riding (no extreme rock climbing and speed limited to 30 mph). I have angle protractor tool. Any thoughts? Thanks a bunch fo your assistance. Stay warm.

After reading 1987 FSM. I think I got air injection system if I am not mistaken. Those two black canisters on both sides of engine are silencers, correct? If so, what do I need to do to remove this completely? Crimp the steel pipes that leads out of the exhaust side of the heads - will that work? Any ideas? That big round sphere tank and other stuff I believe its cruise control and I have not confirmed it yet so I'll leave it alone as I do want cruise control feature. thanks

This is my car looking at passenger side fender. Do you see a grapefuit sided black ball? What is that for? Also there is a electrical vacuum valve above that ball (little to the right) - what that is for? Anything do you see that needs to be removed? This is my car looking at driver's side. Do you see the black box that is connected to exhaust system underneath and to crankcase vent plumbing system.? what shoud I do about it and for pass side circular canister also (not in photo)? thanks

Yes got them. Problem 1 is that my wagon has grape fruit sized vacuum reservior. Donor car does not. Is this part of cruise control? It is mounted on passenger side of fender above the axle. Problem 2, there are round plastic canister located on rear side of the pass side cylinder head. it was connected to egr valve and to air intake and to pass side exhaust manifold or exhaust side of head. Donor car does not have them. Problem 3. there are sqaure plastic canister on drivers side of the cylinder head right by the disty. It is connected also to drivers side exhaust manifold/or to exhaust side of the head. It is connected to the air filter. Donor car does not have it either. What to do with them? Thanks. I have photos but I can't upload it for some reason.

For past few days I have been reading up both write ups on conversion. Today, I went to u-pull yard and pulled entire wiring harness from ECM all the way to the head light. That includes two relays and 4 relay banks, fuse panel and so on. I did not sever any wiring. I left all the wiring harness under dash panel alone. Pulled intake manifold assembly and all stuff that is attached to intake manifold. I pulled entire fuel pump and bracket and hoses. Is that all that I need to pull? Oh by the way my car is 1987 Wagon GL converted to 5 speed dual range from 3 speed auto. It has factory a/c and cruise control. It had carb but Im pretty sure its not california but it has wiring to the carb itself. The donor car is 1988 legacy with 5 speed and no automatic seat belt and it does not have a/c. ECM is black color. All subarus in the yard has exhaust pipe cut off right at the head and removed the center portion (cat?). :-\ Where do I install O2 sensor on and where do I get the bung to weld on? When I got home I started on my car and noticed that my car has more devices than the donor car so I will need assistance in determining what stays and what goes into the trash. I'll be sending up photos. thanks.

Okay. What does it take for me to get possession of all the parts I need to convert my 1987 EA82 49 state carb to SPFI setup? thanks

I may be interested in SPFI setup to convert my carb to SPFI. If you give me fair price and what you have already to convert to SPFI setup, I might buy them. My email is vestharris (at) comcast net.

What about Accel SuperStock coil? http://www.jegs.com/p/Accel/747667/10002/-1

1) - I will do compression test later this weekend. This car/engine is 72,000 miles on it. Transmission and high altitude carb came from donor car that has 165,000 or so miles. Does not smoke (unlike my Cummins BBCOD with 50 HP stage 1 injectors). I will find and install vacuum guage and report the readings over the time. 2) - I did carb cleaner spray all the way around the car, intake manifold and all the hoses - no speed increase or stumble - that was done on original carb and on the new high altitude carb. Then I tried ether (starting fluid) with no results either. I'll replace the hoses next time I pull the air filter housing. But I would like to know what is the problem before I throw parts at it. 3) I was thinking of vapor lock but in my experience with jeeps with mechanical fuel pump, we have problem with it especially up here in the rockies which I ended up covering fuel lines with heat shield foil material. That helped. On this car, it has electric pump (may be low psi) and has factory fuel lines routing that is away from the exhaust area. The fuel lines are on the left side of engine bay under the master cylinder leading directly to the carb and to the black charcoal canister on the right side of engine. Diagnosing vapor lock is harder than diagnosing other problems because its dependent on the amount of time of heat soak and gas quality, etc... in my opinion. I'm just a retired diesel mechanic by trade. :-\ Thanks for the advices, folks. I'll keep you posted.

Alright, esteemed folks. Recall my earlier thread about swapping AT transmission etc.. I decided to start new thread. After reassembling 5MT D/R transmission with new synchronizer ring (60.00 from Fred Bean Subaru) and stabbed whole thing into 1987 wagon . It shifts fine. Previous fuel mileage was 20 MPG (hand calculated) and now its 23 MPG. I replaced all 4 seals in the tranny before reassembling. I used Royal Purple 80-90W oil with 1 quart of engine Reslione. When the engine is hot and shut down for 10 or so minutes, it will not restart until cranking with throttle all the way down to the floor for 7 seconds or so. So this weekend, I grabbed another Hitachi carb - this one has high altitude modifications already on it. Swapped it into this car. I haven't driven it long enough to calculate the fuel consumption but I went to the store to get some stuff rather than drive my Cummins. After coming out of the store and getting into the car, it still wont start after cranking. It will start if I hold down the pedal all the way to floor and crank for 5-7 sec. It was like this before I pulled the automatic transmission with bad governor gear and after putting into 5 speed manual and after swapping carb from sea level carb to H.A. modified carb from donor car. When it is cold - it ALWAYS starts easy. Just very hard to start when HOT. I checked the choke and its fully open but wont start. I am thinking - timing (its set at 9-10 degrees) or bad ingition coil? Can I use ACCEL yellow coil? Or forget about whole thing and go to junk yard and locate SPFI car? I dumped few cans of Seafoam in tanks few times at fillups before I swapped the carb with no luck. On my next fill up I'll put in1 more can of seafoam in it for the "new" carb. By the way, this is directed to G.D. & Turbone when I swapped the tranny, I did not have to replace those two radius plates to install the transmission cross member. Just FYI. I havent finished with reverse lights and cruise control issues with clutch. Oh by the way, I bought entire FSM books for 1987 Subaru (all 6 sections) off fleabay for 29.00. Thanks!

In item #40 in the drawing, what is the part number for that? I checked AllDataPro and their drawing is not clear at all. Now, the 5 speed transmission when torn down looked great shape. I am willing to pay for that part and reassemble back together. As for "donation" from the neighbor, I think I wont ask for it because it would be well spent keeping him away from my garage. I have emailed Prestiage Subaru of Asheville. Is there another source I should consider?? By the way the front input shaft seal does not come out without splitting the case apart and removing the entire input shaft and bearing assembly because the bearing is retained by a snap ring to the front cover. Thanks.

What is recommended dealer to buy the parts from? Rockauto.com does not have that sychro that I need (high/low range sychro).

Ya'all are useless. I tore it down yes rear housing is torn down as requried and split the case. Found the spring that applies pressure to sychnoizer tabs broke and causing the input shaft side sychronizer to bind up and bent out of shape. That in turn causes the input shaft to bind up.

Alright, I am going to have to tear it down. Question.. does the rear housing come off without disassembling???

Alright, a new development. I got the cover back against the main case. The input shaft only spins a little to the left and a little to the right (total 1/2 inch of rotational movement). When backing the cover bolts off a bit and cover allowed to move out of the main case by 1/8 of inch, the input shaft spins free. Now, how do I know if the front (item #50) and rear shifter is in neutral?

Very sorry to hear that you're fighting the cold, buddy. Get well. I have 15 yr old kid fighting the cold as well - probably from his buddies at end of school party they went to.

Folks, I'll tell you this... I have been watching this go back and forth. Here is my 2 cents... Save your money. I own '04 Dodge with HO Cummins. I run with AFE air intake and I check inside of the air intake with white tissue cloth - clean -not even gray. I used to run K&N filter and guess what - DUSTED!! Never again. A buddy of mine has same truck as mine and his engine had high blowby and had to be overhauled early - 200,000 miles on the clock when it should last twice that easy. So, I will not recommend K&N not even for lawnmotors.