85T-REX

Yes, Merry Christmas everyone! Be safe!

I had the same problem with my RX. Not quite that bad though. I replaced all of the rear seals when I put a new clutch in at 220k miles. It's at 322k now and all is still well. It took about 2 hours to pull the engine. Good times!

I've heard that it isn't as efficient but I haven't seen any numbers on exactly how much. The motors seem to wind up to around 5k rpm so if I leave it in 2nd gear it will hit about 65mph. I would just like to try it. I could always switch to a manual tranny later.

It looks like most of it is coming from the rear main seal and dripping down from the bell housing opening.

I've seen a site where they cut the center of a heater core out and put a ceramic heater core in its place. Hook it too a 110 inverter and power it up along with existing fan controls. It looks like it would work pretty well. I've emailed electricauto a couple times with no reply. There's another company in Utah I talked to today and they seem to be just what I'm looking for. Of course, the biggest issue is mating the motor to the tranny. The 3at should work well because it's fully mechanical. So it seems it would work fine with just the torque converter spinning. I would really like to do the conversion but I'm in a different boat than you. I have the money, just no time or place to do it.

Check and see if your driver door wires are getting pinched between the door and pillar.

That's good to hear. You should know soon enough. Even with what you've said here I don't see a reason to disagree with nipper. He mentioned that any car (Subaru or not) with 160k is a risk. Which is true. It's the degree of risk that was assumed and/or misunderstood in the first place. No need to make a mountain out of a molehill. Or is there?

I understand all of that and it goes without saying. My question is how many have you had to do twice?

Okay, just checking. Thanks. I just don't remember reading about anybody that's replaced them having to do it again. Has anyone?

I think some of you are misunderstanding nippers comment. Everything I've read on this site about 2.5's getting the new three layer head gaskets has made it seem like they were no longer having problems with them failing. If any of them have 160k miles on them, they've surely been replaced, right? In any case, from the time they are replaced, they are just as reliable and susceptable to failure as the 2.2 head gasket, right? If my understanding of the gasket issue is right then nippers comment is also right. He knoweth what he speaks.

Yep, I'll be there. Storm? What storm? That's the beauty of owning a Subaru over a Corvette. Bump for tomorrow!

It should have a vac advance but it doesn't do anything under load. (Full throttle)

Yep, I did see his post on the legacy parts and figured it was him. If I make it up this weekend I'll try to hook up with him.

Bump for this weekend!!! Count me in.

Look at post #5.

I should have edited this sooner, sorry. Love the RX by the way! I would drive mine forever if I could!!

Are you sure it wasn't because you were 17? I used to drive an F-150 through the High Desert of California for my job. (Sand covered back roads) I pulled the fuse for the ABS because every time I hit the brakes and cut the wheel to take a corner (you know, rally style) it would slide straight through the intersection. With no ABS it would corner like a rally truck should. Other than that, I think ABS is a good idea.

Congratulations Sublute!!!!!! I'm very glad to see you didn't have any more problems with the mix-up. You should be good for at least 200k more miles. Great job!

Beautiful car!!! That's exactly what I could use right now where I live and work. One question I have is: Can you adapt a motor like that staight to the input shaft on the tranny? As in, take the torque converter off an automatic and attach it there. Or does the auto tranny not have an input shaft that's adaptable? Even if you just attach the motor to the torque converter. I've been thinking a lot about converting my wagon. All I've read is it's not a good idea to do it to an automatic. I don't see why not. The trans could still operate the same way. Without vacuum, it would shift through all three gears quickly, which would be fine, and you would still be able to kick the tranny down for passing with the kickdown switch. I don't really see why that wouldn't work or even work well.

I know the shots weren't definitive, but most of them did show the spark just before the pulse. It should be the other way around, right? Or am I not reading them right?

It looks like you have an idea of your spark and injector pulse relation. I believe you would just need to compare both of those to the compression stroke. Make sure the other three plugs are removed. Compare: Compression stroke - spark. Yes, comp gauge and timing light. Compression stroke - injector pulse. Comp gauge and scan. Spark - injector pulse. Already done.

One thing you could try is do the compression test in the cylinder you're testing the injector from and see how they relate to one another. The injector should fire a little before the compression chug. I'm assuming the spark is always going to hit tdc, since the signal comes from the crank sprocket, so no need to check that. Then again, maybe it wouldn't hurt. If it's easy enough to do, why not?

I remember reading in one of your previous posts that you marked the cams and lifters with a sharpie. From all I've seen since then is it seems like your crank and cams aren't working together properly. Are you absolutely sure you put each cam in its right place? Are you absolutely sure the intake cams are on the top of each bank and on the correct side of the engine? Are you absolutely sure the exaust cams are on the bottom of each bank and on the correct side of the engine? If they're switched bottom to top, you will still get a compression stroke but the intake stroke will be sucking from the exaust side and expelling through the intake. The injector will also probably fire after the spark. If they're switched d/s to p/s, the compression stroke, intake stroke, and exaust stroke would be in the correct order and you would still get compression. But once again, the the injector will probably fire after the spark. I say probably because I don't know for sure if the notch on the end of each cam is in the same place in relation to the lobes. Since your compression tests are consistant, it would seem that IF one side was switched, both sides would be switched. This may be a hard one to check. It may be worth an extra consideration. Are you able to verify if the intake stroke is pulling air from the intake or exaust? If not, from which one do you smell more fuel? I really hope this helps, I know you're struggling.

What do you mean by "tempory service"? Where did you get that from? IF jacking it up a whole 1" changes the camber that much, it would also change the toe. IF that were true then you would just need an alignment to keep the tires from wearing "severly". As I've said before, I've never had a problem with any of my cars so maybe some do and some don't. casm, just try it and find out for yourself. Is the rear of the Brat still adjustable? Make sure that's all the way up too.

You spell pretty good for being drunk. Welcome to the board.