wes200x

Is the td04 a ball bearing turbo like the vf series.

Has anyone tried a newer IHI turbo out of a wrx on the older subarus. I was just wondering if the vf series turbos on the newer subarus are to big for the older lower output motors. From what I understand the vf24 or 29 are the smallest of the vf series. Also has anyone tried the td04 out of the wrx's. From what I see on my air intake temp gauge the stock rhb5 turbo on the subires don't do much past 10 psi except for heat the air. Has anyone tried putting the exhaust housing on a rhb5 turbo out of a ford thunderbird. I heard it has a larger compressor and the subaru exhaust housing will bolt right on.

Your best bet is try to find a junk turbo car and switch everything. I have a 1986 carbed wagon that blew up. I found a 87 turbo wagon in an impound lot with a blown tranny and some body damage. Got the car for 50 bucks. Swapped the motor wiring dash and all the sensors in the engine bay. Runs like a champ even got it through the California referee so she is completely legit. Its a lot of work.

I too agree use assembly lube on and followers to keep them in place while assembling the engine. Also lube all moving parts. As for the sealant I have put many motors together using Threebond 1104 semi drying adhesive. Threebond can be hard to find but if you have a local yamaha motorcycle dealership go in and get a tube of yamabond 4 semi drying adhesive it is made by threebond. This is what is recomended for sealing vw cases together or anything where you need somthing that will stay flexible. I have put multiple motorcycle cases vw cases and EA82 motors together and they have not leaked one drop of oil. Just dispence on a throw away paint brush and aply to all surfaces with a nice thin layer fill the groove in the cam covers and put together. This is what the dealerships use on engine reassembly. Also for a leak free motor use Gaskasinch It is a white can with a vintage pinnup girl on it. This works greak to all gaskets and rubber seals. Works great for extra protection on oil pump seal and valve covers.

I would make sure you have a a/f meter in the car before running the super afc. I was looking at that for my wagon but if you look at the tecnial section on the apexi website it says that the meter will not read any signal higher than 5v. The older maf sensors go higher than that. I talked to a guy at apexi and he siad not to use it because wonce it goes over 5v it will not know what to do and go lean. Sorry to be a bummer.

Does anyone know what voltage from the maf signal wire makes the computer activate the fuel cut.

Have you degreed the cams to make sure they ground them right. Delta cams messed up another guys EA82 cams and they had to replace one. Your timing marks may be dead on but that doesn't mean the cams are. Put a degree wheel on the cams and check to see if the specs on the cams measure the specs on the sheet. The only thing that really sucks is that you would have to pull the motor to get a degree wheel on the motor. As for the super afc I would disconect it until I had the thing running good. I run a HKS super afr and I always put a jumper between the afr'ss maf signal wire when I am having problems to make it seem like it is not there. Also check the instructions on the super afc. My afr had to have a 5v digital square wave rpm signal like alot on new cars have. This involved buying a piece that converted the stock analog signal to a digital signal. Even if it doesn't say I would call Apexi and see if the super AFC will work off an analog rpm signal. On the stupid side since I did it once. Check to make sure the vacume lines are good. My car was doing the exact thing and it turned out the line from the manifold to the auxilary idle control valve had come off but it looked like it was still connected since it was just sitting on the end. It would rev up if you kept it off boost and after about 4 lbs. it would completely go back to idle. Also it idled like crap from the huge vacume leak.

Hey thanks alot. For some reason it never came to that it is just running out of fuel. I have a high performance pump and adjustable regulator with boost reference port that I will try to install this weekend. See if that cures my problem. Also does anyone know what voltage the fuel cut does come on at. I have been talking to a guy at HKS to see if their fuel cut defender can be made to work for the older subarus. thanks everyone

Are you talking about the stock gauges. The oil pressure and the volt meter kind of worked in my 86 wagon but were pretty finiky

It is measured right off the turbo before the intercooler

I have a 87 gl-10 wagon thats seems to be falling on its face after 5000rpm. I am running stock turbo top mount intercooler boost set at 8lbs. and a HKS super afr fuel computer. It feels like the valves are floating sometimes at 4500 and higher. Sometimes it doesn't come on till after 5000. Today I noticed that at this point my a/f gauge goes lean really fast. So I tried putting more fuel into the motor at this rpm with the super afr. It works, right before 5000 it goes really rich from my adjustments to the fuel curve and then after 5000 goes instantly lean. I unplugged the super afr and still same problem. It is not a gradual change on the gauge. On my autometer gauge it goes from middle point in the green to red instantly. Could this be the fuel cut. I heard it was supposed to kick on at 10 lbs. But I am only running 8lbs. I watch the boost gauge and it is staying exactly at 8 before and after the motor falls on its face. I am not hearing any signs of knock though. Has anyone had this problem. I pulled the spark plugs and put a scope in to check the tops of the pistons. No sign of detination. What does it feel like when the fuel cut comes on.

Hey guys This is the best part I have ever put on my subaru. I was having a serious rough idle problem with my 1987 subaru gl-10 wagon. Tested every sensor and everything checked out. I even switched most of the sensors and still the same rough idle. So One day on the web I read about the hks arf which lets you adjust fuel mixture and it has an idle stabilization function. This got me interested so I found one on ebay got it for 85.00 and I was on my way. After going through all the instructions I ran into one problem. The AFR needs a 5volt digital signal for the rpm pickup wire but the subaru and most older cars has a 12v analog pulse signal for the rpm. Luckly Hks sells a signal level converter at 45.00. Ploblem fixed but it was getting pricey. It took a little while to figure out how to get it hooked up properly because hks does not offer a wiring diagram for an 87 subaru I wonder why ha ha. You have to have the proper ecu ground as well as some other wires to make it work properly. Now to the good part, after getting it all hooked up you have to go through a series of steps so the computer in the afr can self learn the outputs of the sensors. After that SHE IDLED SMOOTH I THOUGHT IT STALLED. I would pull up to stop lights and I kept looking at the tach to see if the car stalled it idled so nice. First time my subaru ever ran this great. I have seen so many posts about cars running rough and my computer was not coding anything. For all you performance guys like me the AFR is the perfect device for running larger injectors because not only can you adjust 50% lean or 50%rich thoughout the rpm range but you can control idle mixture. It has a signal stabilizer for if you run a blow off valve which I do. What a difference no more intermitent stalls because of the blow off valve. If anyone was interested I would like to be able to post the ecu pinout diagram for the install. This was the hardest part about finding the right wires. Now I have it all sorted out and I marked what wires need to be attached in my factory manual ecu pinout diagram. If any one is interested on how to install the parts I am running My 87 gl-10 has Crane cams HI6-s igniton with Crane lx-91 50,000 volt coil this is a multi spark ignition. HkS Super AFR Turbo NX RLF blow off valve. Copper head gaskets. And soon to come Intercooler and larger injectors as well as installing the boost controler . Hope this is helpful it was for me. I love this site.

Hey guys I got a hks super afr. This bad thing lets you control air fuel mixture and has steeing so you can run larger injectors. But the instructions cal for a 5v rpm signal. All I can find is the WY wire that goes to the ecu is .5v it is supposed to be the the rpm siganl wire. Any help would be great

Does anyone know which pin on the ecu is the 5v rpm signal

try a real heavy grease in the cup part that goes against the lifter and the area that goes to the valve stem this will make them stick on.

Hey I just won this motor and I was wondering if there is any difference between the spider and the japan motor vrs. US. I could not tell any difference. I want to use it in my 87 gl-10. Here is the auction #7989552173

yes it is a completely stock wireing loom. The only difference is that the car it came out of was an automatic and mine is a stick. So there was some stuff from the automatic trans that I could not hook up

The control unit is attached to the steering colmn inside the drivers compartment.

Thanks for the feedback everything engine and electrical is all from the 87. My car was carbureted before putting the turbo motor in. As for the cts when I put it back in the car after checking it , I took a reading at the sensor and then looked at the wireing diagram and it is #9 wire goin into the computer so I unpluged it and it had the same reading at the ecm. Maybe the computers bad.

Thanks for the answers. I have the hot wire maf so it looks like I don't enen have the knock control unit. Here is the deal with the rich condition. It is only at idle and when it is cold. It seems to run siper rich when the thermo sensor would not even be up to temp for the computer to read it. However I pulled it out and put it in a pot of water over the stove. I took the proper measurements at the proper temp and it reads perfect. It has a brand new o2 sensor also. Is there any way to lean out the whole system. Because doen't the computer run of a pre determined map when it is cold.

I have an 1985 gl wagon that I put a 1987 gl-10 turbo motor in. I swapped everything out of the 87 dash cluster wiring harnesses everything. The only difference is that the 87 was an automatic and my car is a stick. I got the thing running pretty good but it runs super rich at idle and has a unsteady idle after beeing revved up. It blows raw fuel out when you fire it up in the morning. I have checked all the sensors on the motor CTS MAF coil Idle switch TPS Auxilary idle control valve Egr both purge control valves. It has a new PCV valve cap rotor wires plugs fuel filter and I installed a fuel pressure gauge and it seems to be fine two. So I started going through the wireing since the doner had power windos door locks and the automatic trans their are some plugs that I could not hook up. After going through this I found the F3 plug which says it goes to the knock control unit was not attached. It says it is suposed to be under the right hand dash. My car looks to have the trip computer control unit where the knock control should be. But I can not find this in the engine wireing diagram. It shows that the knock sensor goes straight to the ecm and it does not show the knock control at all. Did the 1987 mpfi turbo use the control unit. If so does anyone have a pic of what one looks like. Maybe I have it in parts box somewhere. Also is the auto ecm different that the manual. I just want to figure out why it dumps so much fuel out at idle thanks for any help wes

Does anyone know what the number is on the legacy rhb5 turbo compared to the EA82 rhb5 turbo. I saw a different thread about either putting the EA82 exhaust housing on the legacy turbo or Putting the legacy intake wheel and housing on the EA82 turbo and then having it balanced. I want to get one off ebay to upgrade my car. Any other suggestions on turbos that would give about the same spool up time but better power. I am in the process of making an equal length turbo header and new downpipe so flanges don't make that much of a difference. Also I will be having copper head gaskets made if anyone else needs some. He said it would probably be around 60.00 for the set

Well I see all you have wrote and thanks. I will go about it this way. I have a bosch inline fuel pump that I know will give me plenty of fuel with the line size I am running. I will be using a a/f boost and egt gauge to keep track of engine cond. I am looking for a air temp sensor to put in the intercooler to keep track of intake charge temp also. I was thinking of the copper gasket because I have not had any luck with the regular gaskets on the normaly aspirated motors. I am not going to crank the boost up and let it go. I will do it in steps to keep track of engine cond. If any of you have any ideas on what type of injectors these are high or low impedance hit me back.Does anyone make larger injectors that will work. Does anyone have specs on all the different cams that have came in the Ea82 carb spfi mpfi turbo etc. As for the heads I won on ebay. I got lucky. I found them not long before the auction ended so yay I bid at the end. You said for yourself that you would of bid higher. I bid once and that is all. If you bid the price that you want to spend in the first place I would not have won. But anyway I will take good care of them.

I am trying to fing copper head gaskets for the EA82. I saw the post from long time ago, and I just wanted to see if they were still available.Let me tell you what I have. I bought a 1985 carburated 4X4 wagon from a neighbor for 100.00 bucks. I got it for fun then I found out what a tuff little car it was. At 247,000 the head blew and since I had fallen in love I decided to fix it. I got a Jdm motor and put it in and it had a bad lifter. So I called back they refunded my money and never picked up the motor. At this time I found a externally beat up 1988 gl-10 wagon that I got for 50.00 bucks with only 85,000 miles. So I swapped everything. Dash wire harness all smog stuff everything. It fired up and ran perfect but had a pan gasket leak. So here is where I stand. I bought a manual boost controller, intercooler, boost air fuel and a bunch of other gauges. I want to go throughthe EA82t and also I got a set of genIII heads to put on the 9.5 comp. ea82 engine. I want to turn up the boost so I want copper gaskets because I have heard this is the weak link. I want to make one bad little sub.