Joseph Davis

Hi. I'm going to disagree a whole lot. I'm not trying to be an rump roast, just hear me out and ask for clarification or debate the finer points with me. I'm not trying to be rude, just my $0.02 When I ran a .50 trim Saab T3 with .48 AR turbine my B18B spooled it at 2500 rpms. I ran up to "11 psi" with no intercooler upon occaision, despite commonly held urban myth represented as fact stated I needed an intercooler for anything past "7 psi." This is because I tuned for MBT (minimum best timing) and therefore made best possible power with least chance of detonation. When I upgraded to a .60 trim T3 with .48 AR turbine, I noticed spool was no different, yet I made "more power per psi" than with the smaller compressor. IAT logs were also 10-15 deg F cooler "per psi" When I simultaneously upgraded the .60 trim T3's turbine housing to .63 AR, and installed a 24"X11"X4" IC (approx 50% more volume than some of the "600 hp" cores found in magazine builds) I got really "laggy." As in, an extra 600 rpms, golly gee whiz. Gosh, that sure ruined things for me. Utilizing a hybrid of pulse flow and pressure wave exhaust manifold design, I am able to spool a Holset HX35 200 rpms later than the above .60/.63 T3 with overly large volumed IC. The HX35 is good for nearly twice the airflow (horsepower) that a .60 trim T3 is, and the turbine wheel's exhaust exit is right at twice the size (proportionally less restriction). The joys of running a turbine wheel/housing designed sometime after the stone age, sitting at the end of a turbo manifold based on Alfred Buchi's specifications! Here's a picture of the .60/.63 vs the HX35 - ignore the puny T3/04E hybrid sitting between them: Can you guess how much I have dropped my IATs, and the corresponding lowering of my knock limit on pump gas, through using this turbo (and manifold design)? Intake manifold psi compared to atmospheric psi is an invalid comparison. It has nothing to do with anything. For general purposes, a rise in hp per psi indicates a gain in system VE, but there are several instances where it does not. VE is also not as important as some people hold - actual air mass inducted is god, and VE compared to power can wander all over the place. The exhaust has to breathe past the exhaust manifold/turbine, and the smaller that passage is the more it strangles the engine despite the intake manifold psi. Compare intake manifold pressure to turbine inlet pressure if you must compare anything. Personally, I don't care about anything except a thermally safe AFR, and MBT - on racegas or with water/diluent injection to raise knock limit where applicable. I pay attention to heat entering my engine (small turbo = heat = bad) and I pay attention to how easily my engine can shed it's heat (small turbo = bottleneck through which exhaust heat must pass = bad). The more you can cool things, the better for power, peak power potential, engine longevity, bsfc, ad nauseam.

I like MAFs right up until they become a big fat restriction. I get a little iffy about unknown EFI setups with respect to MAF/injector limitiations, or fuel cut. Small turbos are good for one thing: blowing hot air. Plenty of goodly sized stuff in the junkyard for the thrifty minded individual, feel free to go a little bigger and cool those charge exit temps, make more power, and make that extra power with safety. HY35 or HX35 off of Cummins Diesel Dodges can be had in used/low mileage form for $150-300, HX35 is good for over 500 to the wheels in a gas application if figuring for 15% (aka 2WD) drivetrain loss. I think the Megasquirt guys would be who I'd look to for a project like this; affordable and thorough engine management. Piggybacks are a good way to detonate by confusing the ECU.

Engine sits a little more level in the bay when Subieloving scum I share shop space with throw away the stock motor mounts and replace them with the drag race suspension stolen off my CRX: Uh, yeah, a couple of $0.99/per hockey pucks from wongleflute's. I use them stacked over the rear shocks to prevent rearward suspension travel when at the dragstrip. Ghetto riceboy trick. I think the above engine was pulled no less than five times to try different solutions to correcting engine/trans angle. Just a little trick Dave figured out, to help out anybody else trying this swap.

Yup, call Dave.

The flip side of the coin says a stock clutch at 7 psi, while loaded down with three 150-200 lb guys, pulls handily away from new SE-R's.

I am not Dave. Dave is not an internet personality. Contact him via the information above. The plenum riser block is shown in the pictures. It's not coming with the kit because it's a PITA to remove. You can make your own, or modify the charge pipe going into the throttlebody to clear easily. I don't know if David has any spare oil pans, you'd have to ask him. Installation is fairly straightforward. I do recommend you netsearch Megasquirt, though. FYI, the turbo Justy was running a stock clutch. It's been turbo for (?) 2000+ miles, probably borderline situation with short life expectancy, but you can get by with a stock clutch in good consition.

Old boy you're quoting has it wrong... overrevving will cause piston-valve contact if it's going to destroy anything. I'm pretty sure that the rod bearing let go due to culmulative damage from detonation, and the rest of the bearings would show it if you know what to look for. The top bearing halfs should have interesting wear patterns. Just a fine point I wanted to pick at, the EJ's are still wonderful engines.

$550 takes it. Includes: - IHI turbo, fresh rebuild - tubular manifold - downpipe - oil lines - Ford 350cc injectors - charge piping - DSM SMIC intercooler - Greddy Type-S blow off valve - "black box" that rescales the injectors, which I recommend you throw away and buy a Megasquirt (~$250) Pretty much everything as shown in the pictures posted at the beginning of this thread from last year are included. Only things you don't get is the plenum riser block, and you have to modify your own oilpan for the oil return. Contact Dave at (828) 693-3050, after noon on weekdays.

e-manage also has undesirable effects on ignition timing because it also manipulates MAP signal. If you are using it to control ignition timing as well, the e-manage hack manages to mostly overcome it's problems, and in that hands of a knowledgable user would work well. The OEM mappings in the Justy ECU are wierd, IMO. Car has been rock solid + dependable at 5 psi, but when the boost is upped to the MAP sensor's limit ~7 psi a ring land goes within a hundred miles. Referring to "AFC hack theory," ignition timing should be drastically advanced at NA to boost transition, and in the lower boost numbers, making the lower psi boost event more dangerous. Standalones for life, yo

It's the pulleys that normally crack on them, IME. I figure the things die a couple of other ways, I don't have huge experience with them, but if the car makes it five minutes down the road before it warms up + the transmission *locks* down, that's the problem. So, yeah. Justy's down again to have one piston replaced due to cracked ringlands. The black box is basically an AFC hack, it advances ignition timing in the WOT NA and low boost range, and needs to be tossed. Dave/TJ are cheapasses and won't spend the money for something better. I've offered free tuning/wiring of one of the megasquirt variants that control ignition timing, cost should be around $300, but they have zero interest.

Sorry to have fallen off the face of the planet, thought it was time for an update. Dave kept having trouble with high mileage used junk engines, he got sick of everything and used parts from the four engines laying around to build one fresh engine, then sold the car. It belongs to a friend, so it's still "in the family," and it is running well. Fresh glaze break hone, new rings, new bearings and seals. Block decked just the tiniest bit and everything measured to perfection by paul at Sronce Carquest in downtown Asheville. Dave ported the head/manifold, polished combustion chambers and piston faces. head was milled minimally to ensure it was true. Worked out well, at 7 psi the Justy feels noticeably stronger than before. While some of that is due to the P&P I think our compression numbers may be better than with the other engines, too. After breaking in the engine a few months back, the Turbo Justy's new owner TJ, Dave, and our friend Chris went out for a nice Sunday cruise. A nice young riceboy in a brand new Sentra Spec-V heard the BOV and flagged TJ down... wanted to race... nobody was around so TJ agreed. Loaded down with three guys, the Turbo Justy pulled the Spec-V a car length 0-60, then did the exact same on the rematch. With just TJ driving, I've seen it hang dead even with a stock Turbo II RX7; with how old those cars are that may not be a good yardstick to measure by, but I am confident the Turbo Justy would turn a high 14 second 1/4 at the strip. Since I'm on the subject, here's a Justy rod next to a Honda D16 rod, as I mentioned earlier. Four of the Honda D16 rods support 200 whp reliably, more if you aren't worried too much about longevity. An Acura Integra LS rod is about halfway between the D16 and the Justy rod in size and are good for 260-300 whp depending on your nerve. Suffice it to say that, clutch problems aside, the EJ12 in the Justy is a stout little bad boy: Anyway, Dave's kind of sad about parting ways with the Justy, but it was all for the best - the first week of July sees Dave, our friend Jeff, and myself opening Swagger Motorsports in Hendersonville, NC, 20 minutes outside Asheville. We have a fairly large shop, around 6000 sq ft, just finishing up painting/building office space + waiting room/organizing now. We're planning on having a grand opening cookout sometime in the month of July, and anyone who wants to come is more than welcome. I'll post up details when we have the date finalized. BTW, since Dave's already turbocharged a Justy, he's decided to pursue his other dream: taking the low mileage XT6 crate engine he has laying around, a $200 XT6 donor with engine problems, and an old hatch and making a 2.7 liter AWD hatchie, complete with XT6 brakes and slick paint scheme. If anybody knows of a clean hatch - it doesn't have to run or have good paint, just mostly rust free - please let me know. It's the one thing we still lack! BTW, here's some (sadly non-Subaru) examples of our latest fab and paint work: Dave's current ride, and his girlfriend Rachel's Individual Throttle Bodies and freshly painted Civic.

No delay, been busy on our ends, too. We'll be going through the same hassle over meeting up to yank the engine once you have the car... I work two jobs and Dave has a job + school.

<dissertation> Turbocharging is about manipulating pressure differential to acheive a desired cfm of flow.... cfm is directly related to horsepower. You will find no real world gains in porting and polishing your head unless your head is a restriction, which usually isn't the case in a streetcar. Unless the pressure differential you have to run to hit your desired power level runs you off your compressor's efficiency map, there is no point in porting and polishing a head in a forced induction application. Let's see if I can give you an example. My Holset is capable of 60 lb/hrs of air, which is about 600 hp. It is a modern turbo, equivalent to the Garret GT series turbos, which approach 80% efficiency and are capable of 3:1 or higher pressure differentials (that means 3 times atmospheric pressure:atmospheric pressure, which means 30+ psig). This turbo on my CRX will net me around 240 whp at 10 psi. If I ported and polished my head, and for the sake of argument ran some oversized valves, I would hit 240 whp at 7 psi and be around 280 whp at 10 psi. Most people tout this as some sort of accomplishment, or a worthwhile spend of money. The compressor still cannot make more than 600 hp, and if it makes 600 hp on the stock head at 27 psi versus 22 psi on the ported head, what of it? Anyway, to make a short story real long, I suggest you buy both Maximum Boost by Corky Bell as a turbo primer, and then Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes for a little more in depth theory. Learn to plot your engine onto a compressor map, plot a couple of different engines to get a feel for it, and you'll start to understand exactly what I am saying. </dissertation> And, RallyJusty, I'm not sure a 5 spd transmission would give you better control of your power. I had it pointed out to me by Jim... 3rd gear is 1:1 gear ratio and 4th and 5th are both overdrive gears. THAT is why the Justy felt stupid slow out of the hole, but started rolling pretty nicely once we got up to speed. Upgrade the substandard oil pump in the car, install the Megasuirt so we have real control over the tune, and run about 12 psi off the RHB5, actually connect the 4WD for launches, and things should be much better.

The MX-6 IC is a very nice unit, if it is still on the car. I prefer 300-350cc injectors... most old turbo Fords and automatic turbo DSMs have them.

I talked to Jim, the guy who was going to help Dave out with a Justy engine. He'll be giving us a ring back when he gets the parts car the engine is coming from. Sometime this week, I'm guessing.