mm88swrt

If you're not having them machined I always hit the head gasket areas with a razor blade and finish cleaning them up with some red scotch bright and brake clean. Cam tower I use a small flat head screwdriver to clean the crevis out on the head side. Scotch bright has always been my friend. And don't be shy with gasket maker. Don't over do it, but don't use to little. I've always ran a thin layer on both sides of the valve cover gaskets, they always tend to seep if not. Probly just my luck though . These ea82 motors are pretty easy to work on in comparrison to others. Proper torque is key since all the threads are aluminum...

Ok so I was all mistaken... Chassis has red,white,green,black. So does ditsy plug. I just need to know the correct orrientation of the colors going into the ditsy traced back to the chassis side of the plug. ( basically if there were no plug, what teminal would each wire go to on the ditsy... I can figure it out with that info. Make any sense?

I'm more wondering how they would match up being as my chassis side has no green wire. Its black with a tracer

Yeah I saw that post. I did about an hour worth of digging but didn't see anything that helped. Just basically need to know the position of the wires on the chassis side on the plug. Seeming as though they may not match up. The two plugs don't anyways lol

Ya. I was looking for my fsm but I haunt found it yet lol. May be somewhere in my gl10 from moving this last year... To many projects haha

The 89 is a spfi car. The only thing I took from the turbo car is the chassis side ditsy plug. It was also the clear square one. And disregarded the wire colors on that side of the pigtail. To ensure there was no mix up from turbo model to n/a. My confusion is the actual chassis wires are not the same as the ditsy wires

Background story. Bought an 89 loyale years ago with no motor. The ditsy plug was cut. Got a motor from unknown year (ditsy has square plug). Pulled the chassis side plug off a parts 90 loyale turbo. Upon splicing it in, the wire pattern in the plugs do not match up. Both plugs have red,white,green,black wires. Easy fix right?! Just match the wires up from the ditsy side to chassis side when splicing... So i thought. The wires coming from the chassis harness are red,white,black, and black with a stripe. Which i guessed would just be the green wire. But im getting no spark from coil. Im seeing if anyone knows which order the wires should be connected from the red,white,black, black/red; to the ditsy red,white,black,green. Just want to make sure its connected right before i try and start trouble shooting further. Dont want to beat a dead horse if anyone can help that would be great! This thing hasnt seen the road for over 8 years and its begging for a lift!

Second that^^^ it's not hard to pull the cable off the trans. Check if it visually looks good. You could also test it with a power drill by connecting it to the trans end of the cable and turning it, watching the cluster. Its not to bad pulling the cluster out a bit and popping it off the back. Making sure it spins from one end to another. And tack is only driven by the single wire stated above. Last time I bought a Speedo cable i think it was only like 50 bucks.

I'll sell you mine if you decide to go with it. I literally have no use for it. Its brand new. If you're stateside that is!

I have this exact radiator in my shop right now... Still new but 2 years old. The picture was different when I bought it though. It is not a direct fit. The inlet and outlet would work. Fill hole would be under your core support. Fan shroud holes are wrong. It would work if you wanted to fab it in. And if anyone wants mine they can have it for way less than that sight wants. Plus shipping if needed!

I've decided not to put my gl-10 on the back burner this year! It's sat in the shop way to long. I ended up with a 94 legacy abs mc also centric new with resivior. But only the two ports and it's a 1" bore. Where did you get yours?

I've got a new legacy two port right now. I think I'll pass and try to track down the 4 port. Thanks though!

87 gl-10 under the knife finally!! Got the 08+ TEIN super sports installed with 01 sti knucles, new wheel bearing, impreza tie rod ends and new ball joints! Now I gotta get the rears modded in!!! Then wire in the edfc!

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to try and source a mc with the 4 ports. Of not I'll probably go with the t fitting direction. With upgrading my whole brake system I want to move a little more volume!

So I got the larger legacy master cylinder for a 94. Impulse ebay buy! And upon looking at my car today I am assuming I need to use all 4 outlet ports as my stock one. The legacy mc I got only has 2 ouputs. Anyone know exactly which one I need? All in able to find right now is legacy mc with the two outputs!!! I'm putting my impress knuckles one and TEIN suspension and next is the etc brakes. So I want to try and source the correct mc soon!

Looking to beef up my engine mounts a bit. Was looking at some ej motor mounts and they appear to be pretty similar. Has anyone used these on an ea or know of any other options out there. Im looking at using the ej group n mounts. And also if you know of any other mount or bushing upgrades im listening. Ive already pulled all i could out of nico's gl-10 build thread. Just wondering if there is any more or different options!

yes i believe the legy master cylinder is 15/16. I just knew it was larger and i needed more volume to move bigger brakes on all 4 corners. I also just snagged a set of 2008 tein super street coilovers with edfc for my car too!!!

Im going to be using stock wrx brakes on mine. Way better than the stock ea brakes. The rears will still be a single pot rotor. Just a little bit bigger piston and rotor with the plus of a vented rotor and drum style e brake. The whole braking sytem is being upgraded, not just the rears. Im lookin at putting about 240 to the wheels once tuned and am doing what i can to make sure i can stop good too! I wish i had a build thread. Maybe ill just start one now as a version 4.0 the final draft!

yes i remember reading your post a while back. I was going to go the route of the nissan rears. Which i have aquired but stumbled upon a great deal on the vented turbo legacy rears complete setup. Everything from the brakes to the e brake lever. And yes of course im upgrading the crappy fronts! Ive got gc era sti knuckles and am collecting the parts to upgrade the brakes to wrx brakes. Was going to go the way of the 4 pots up front but decided stock ones will be more than adequate and cheaper for what i can get out of them. I know there is a proportionining valve in the rear, would i need to replace that with a different one to allow different flow? Oh and i also picked up a new larger legacy master cylinder to go along with it all.

thanks!!!

Yes, that is basically what i needed! Just drill an extra hole haha. Hey you ever get rid of those doors with the black handles?

Im lookin at slapping some 93 turbo legacy rear vented disk brakes on my wagon. It already has rear disk but they could be better! I know it takes a little modification to get these on there. And for some reason i cant find the info on here like i did before. Any able to help me on this?!

I'm looking at finally retiring my built ea82t. I'm looking at putting in a ej255t out of a newer wrx. Wondering if anyone knows of these 2.5 motors for in the gen 3 body style.

Those things tend to slip off in some spots! Little pests if you ask me. That is why i deleted all of them i could!

Most the time when this happened to me it was the little actuators behind the driver side strut tower. They always seem to go out and all you will here is a clicking noise from them, ive always tested it by pressing the bottom with my hand on them. You will feel it try to work. If nothing continues happening i grab the vacuum line and touch it to manifold pressure. That will let you know if the mechanical part of it is working. One line engahes and the other disengages. It that part works and the actuators are clicking. They are bad. If you get nothing from them its probably something electrical. At that point just start checking fuses. If the actuators are bad i think i have a spare set sitting around. I dont usethem anymore. I went awd... less fuss