mm88swrt

^^^ i agree! Every ea82 ibe bought i never paid mpre than 500 dollars for. Even with everything ive done to it. I would maybe get 2k out of it on the streets. And ive got over 6k into it. Id make more parting it out odly enough haha. Maybe i should part mine out to fund my gc8 build?!

In my situation with my 87 gl-10 ive considered doing an ej swap. Jdm wrx motor maybe all said and done installed would put me out iunno 3-4k. But i decided to build the hell out of my ea82t. There are parts out there to gain power with. The reason i love my modded ea is because you have to put time and thought into it. Figure out how to make spoob from cars many years newer to work. Like wrx intercoolers and different turbos. The guys at ram performance know their spoob. And so does tech works engineering in canada. Tom up there has a 300+hp daily ea motor. Fact is yes ej of any series is a cheaper way of gaining more instant power and a wider and more available array of parts. Its all about what the persons goals are. I lean towards the lesser crowd so when ppl see the ea build and a dyno sheet to blow their mind, that to me is a job well done! Forgot to mention my built ea82t still gets around 27mpg without being properly tuned yet...

My past experiences just like this all turned out to be the wiper motor itself. I can dig through my fsm tomorrow and see if i can get the rear diagram for you. You could just start poking aroubd with a test light with the switch in the on position and that will tell you if you have power.

Very common, as stated above a good dab of blue thread lock solves the issue.

If you need one i got an extra one floating around if you want it. Just pay for shipping. Let me know just pm me

As far as i recall you back it off a quarter turn then re torque. And you do this in the same torque pattern. Id have to double check my fsm to be for sure. I just did mine and that is the procedure i took. Someone chime in if im incorrect.

For mine i used stone gaskets. I am also running a n/a block as an ea82t, but also have different pistons but my compression is still more that factory turbo blocks. All gaskets require a re torque as far as i know. Except the permatorque gaskets. IMHO i would still re torque them, but many have had no problems not doing so.

Ive used it there with no issues. Matter of fact thats what seals everything on my motor, minus factory gaskets. No leaks at all!!!

I installed my twe header and downpipe.plumbed in my tdo4, which is getting swapped out sunday for a td05 20g. And still working on body work. Got to try and smash that all out before wcss16!!! Stupid thing wont let me upload pictures maybe ill try from my computer. Btw this is on my 87 gl-10 WITHOUT an ej swap

What joe5 said. Its just a normal ol O ring. Nice and round. I have a full set of O rings and always just replace it when i tear into the motor

Compression is great. I think it was like 140-150 all the way around. Bottom end was just rebuilt. Less than 1k on the motor. The block is a non turbo block so it does not have the breather coming out of it. Literally just have the two off the valve covers and the pcv valve. It is a mpfi motor with a spider intake

My ea82 is blowing by a bunch of oil out the passenger side valve cover. My pcv system is super cut down. All there is are the two breathers and the pcv valve. These should be hooked up in the way the the passenger side goes to the intake and the driver side goes to the valve ya? Ive been told to t them together and run that to the valve. Im also beleiving my turbo seals are bad which is why this happens under boost. It has a used td04 on it. Any ideas?

Never seen this one. But i would call them to make sure its everything you need. I wouldnt bother replacing rods, they are forged. Pistons are the weak spot. I got a set of wiseco pistons in my ea82t. Its going to be spendy building that little motor that in depth. With parts and machine work to be done. There are some vw springs out there that are stiffer.

Got it all figured out. It was just the plug in the back not making connection. So its all fixed now

The twin plug that goes into the back, should there be 12v at both with ignition on? Ive got 12v to the battery wire. If so it was probly just a bad contack. I cleaned and tightened them up in the plug. Cant test it yet cu the alternator is wet... with paint

The black fusable link is good. Ill double check all the connections tomorrow. Its just weird it worked fine before the motor was pulled and its back in now and not working! Ill update on what i find tomorrow

So my gl-10 isnt charging. Tried two diff alterternators that i know are good.( both tested out at orielys with 14.7v. All the fuses are good. And aldo no fuses are drawing power when the car is off. Im going to do more testing tomorrow, but im wondering if someone has had the same kinda issue or any advice on it. Its causing the car to run horribly due to the fact its just running off the battery.

Ok figured it out. The #4 follower for the intake broke... which ive never seen before. Compression test was showing zero on #4. Tore it apart and found that. All the fuel is working fine. Great spark and fuel timimg is correct. So just some timing and this monster will be back on the road. After a re torque and an oil change. Ive gotta find out why it will not let me put pictures up, that way i can show it off... it looks pretty wicked and sounds even better!

Ya, im thinkin the injectors might be going out. The weird thing is the motor ran just fine before it was pulled. My boost is always right at about 9psi, which is the least as i can go after everything ive done to the motor. Injectors are stock for now. Im headed out now to test it all out, make sure the injectors are spraying and such.

ive got my 87 gl-10 that has a very rough idle. the motor is built.... has pistons, cams, valves, td04 turbo, header and downpipe. anyways, the motor will crank over and run on its own. so to begin, i have great spark to all 4 cylinders. engine timing is correct as well as ditsy timing. plug wires are put on as 1-3-2-4 which is correct. it does not want to rev at all when running. with all the checks i've done it seems to me that the driver side bank is not shooting fuel into the motor. i've pulled spark plugs for each cylinder and the motor continues to run unless the number one plug is pulled. when both 2 + 4 injertors get pulled it doesn't seem to make a difference. when i pull the injector wires one at a time on the driver side (2+4) it does not seem to make a difference. or at least it's minimal. i'm at a lost as what else to say about the condition, so ask what you may. any help is greatly appreciated!!! thank you

The factory fogs replaced one of the screws on that metal bar that is under the bumper to hold the skin on. It just gets replaced with a 10mm bolt. Its one screw to the inside of the turn signals.

How long did it sit? Sounds like the lifters were just out of oil. And once oil pressure built up and fully worked its way into them again problem solved. This happens any time i do a motor build, or the car sits for a good amount of time.

It is the correct email. Mm88swrt@gmail.com , tried the resend button multiple times. But no emails arrive anywhere.

Anyone know whats going on there? I tried signing up and it never sent me my email for verification. And cant figure out how to message a board member to help resolve it. Any ideas?

Does anyone happen to know the part number for them or if they are even made anymore?